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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. I agree that one should avoid WW lathes that are other than 8mm or 10mm. Boley and Levin are both top-notch machines. However, I found that the Levin with its collet-holding tailstock is more practical. (A Boley with collet-holding tailstock rather than a runner is very hard to find.) And, as wefalk suggests, the D-bed rather than the 'Reform' style lathe is preferable. For motor mounts, there are cast aluminum stands by Borel that hold both lathe and motor. All these items may be found on eBay. Remember to budget for a nice chuck and/or collets!
  2. Although holly is white when freshly cut it will tone down and, after a few years, is almost indistinguishable in color from Castello boxwood.
  3. Mikeik - so much of model making is strategic! One learns to think far ahead, as in a chess game.
  4. One way to avoid such masking issues would be to not add the strips (I assume these are moldings) until after you've painted the dark green planking. Prepaint the red strips before installing them. That way you don't have to worry about masking at all!
  5. It's far easier to start with a square sectioned spar, then cut it octagonal, finally rounding off the areas where the spar is circular in section. That's the way real masts and spars are made, not turned. To mark out the four square to make it an octagon, each side is marked across 7-10-7 proportionately. That is to say, each face is divided across into 24 parts and lines set off 7 parts in from the edges. Place the four-square stick in a 45 degree holder or jig and plane or chisel down to the marked lines. From there it is easy to round off from octagonal. (In the shipyard, the mast was planed 16-sided first, then rounded, but for model work this step can be skipped.)
  6. I believe that Jim is working on a spindle sander. I hope that he is!
  7. Sweet! I've always liked the French design hull lines, especially the hollow forefoot. A prochain, Monsieur!
  8. Mica is easily worked, David. It comes in layered sheets. These sheets (think millefeuille pastry!) split apart very easily, so you can get a very thin layer if you wish. It can be cut with a blade or sharp scissors. The only drawback is that there are many inclusions in the material, so you need to select the clearest pieces out of your sheet.
  9. Usually 'Waldos' are attached to the top timber beside them with a long scarph. I've not seen an independent one such as your illustration shows. Very interesting!
  10. Yes, John, it's all about projection, but not in the psychological sense of the word!
  11. This way madness lies.... It begs the question, why make things simple if you can make them complicated? Good luck with this partial square/partial cant frame (if I'm seeing this correctly, that is),
  12. Good to read of Judy recovering. Making hinges on a snowy day is good therapy as well. They look terrific. I have some miniature burrs that I use as countersinks. Do you have such things?
  13. No pins in the bitts, in my opinion, Siggi. The rails at the bulwarks are where lines were belayed at that time period. Other lines tied off at the bitts around the crosspiece and standard timberheads.
  14. A most graphic description of a magazine explosion!
  15. There is only one woolding on the mizzen mast, at the bottom of the hounds, Sigge. If there were more, the gaff would not be able to slide up and down without catching. Clearly, the mizen mast is not a made mast. Your furniture - especially the table, Windsor chairs and cabinetry - is lovely. I imagine books were all leather-bound back then. Somehow the yellow book jumps out at me. The large number of belaying pins in racks and on the cross-pieces began to appear once the open rails along the quarter deck and poop were closed in. It was then no longer possible to belay along the rails. So you would not see many belaying pins in 1760, as all the rails were open then. The partners at poop level would be very light, so just the circle of wedges around the mast would be visible, as in your last photo.
  16. Another book that may assist: The Fireship Comet of 1783, SeaWatchBooks. This has an extensive section on the stern and quarter galleries as well as the headwork and carved works.
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