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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Well, Siggi, I wondered how you would manage the last shutter plank! That is an interesting solution. Well done.
  2. druxey
    Thank you for this mega-progress instalment, E&T! It's interesting how, during construction, things that were not clear on drawings suddenly become 'ah-ha!' moments. I've found this very satisfying. I see you had one of these nice moments with the configuration of the lower hull planking layers at the stern. I'm certain that you are correct, as this makes perfect constructional sense in terms of strength. Well done!
  3. druxey
    Thanks for the explanation, Gerald. My local jeweller has a rolling machine to reduce precious metal strip in thickness, which is what I was thinking of. I suppose, from its rugged construction, that it could exert the kind of pressure you describe. I did understand your earlier explanation of the fabrication process for your 'bulb iron'.
  4. druxey
    I'm not familiar with sanding blades. Looks like a neat idea.
  5. druxey
    Superb work, Karl. Is that gold or bronze leaf that you've used on your cannon?
  6. druxey
    If the gangway were continuous in level with the quarter and forecastle decking, it would make sense to have the planking continuous. There would be no reason for an athwartship seam fore and aft of the gangway.
  7. druxey
    This slim publication by the National Maritime Museum in 1972, reprinted in 1976 is an invaluable primer on the building of clinker open boats. While dealing with full-size construction, this book is of value to the model maker and includes a heavy card cut-out half model of a 10' 0' workboat at ⅜" = 1' 0" scale. There is an extensive glossary of boatbuilding terms, some excellent perspective detail drawings and a clear explanatory text. The only criticism I have is that one needs to flip pages from text to illustration, but this is a small quibble. Eric McKee is an excellent author and illustrator. I thoroughly recommend this book for anyone interested in lapstrake open boat construction.
  8. druxey
    This may be a naive question, but as you have in effect made a rolling mil, could you have simply formed the bulb iron of brass or copper strip between rollers of suitable profile? You've made a beautiful double-cam action jig there, Gerald.
  9. druxey
    Use the hard bamboo layer from just inside the shiny outer layer. The inside layer is too soft and fuzzy to use.
  10. druxey
    Nice idea, Dafi. What you show certainly looks like peas! However, the source of my quote says: "NB the Sloop has now a pease Coat bottom upon her, which will last extremely well till the Spring." "till the Spring" implies a temporary rather than permanent measure, and studded nails are unlikely to be called a 'Coat'. So the mystery remains.
  11. druxey
    Unless the wood grain of the boxwood is absolutely straight, it will not draw without breaking in smaller sizes. Use split bamboo, as Mike suggests.
  12. druxey
    Thanks also to you, Dashicat, for an interesting discussion!
  13. druxey
    Very impressive miniature forging work, Giampiero! I've also had good results by flattening bent copper wire for the 'U' part of the hinge.
  14. druxey
    You wrote: It would need to keep the diameter proportional to the longer mast of 60' because the stresses from the quarterdeck partners would still be the same regardless of whether hold or lower deck stepped. ​Stresses would surely be greater if the mast were stepped on the lower deck, as the leverage exerted on it would be greater? (Proportional length of mast above and below the partners, the latter being the fulcrum.)
  15. druxey
    I can't speak for softwoods, but I've had no issues with isopropanol on Castello or other hardwoods. Heat will speed up the debonding process for sure, but alcohol alone does the trick. All you need is a little patience while it works through the joint.
  16. druxey
    Looks good. However, I've found that one can run into problems by planking from the sheer strake downward. Getting either the garboard in last, or a shutter strake at scale size, is very difficult. I recommend starting at the garboard and working upward.
  17. druxey
    We all make mistakes and makeovers, no matter how experienced. As for raised grain, you don't need water to de-bond white or yellow glue. Use 95% or 99% isopropanol. The lack of water content in it will prevent this.
  18. druxey
    Looking at that close-up of the draught, surely there would be reinforcing carlings and pillars under a mizzen stepped on the lower deck? There is no trace of any that I can see.
  19. druxey
    You might want to read the planking tutorials pinned on this site.
  20. druxey
    Well, for a mizen of 14" diameter, the length should be 60' 0" (naval) or 61' 0" (merchant), according to Steel who is, admittedly a little later than Endeavour. But that give you the 10' 0" differential in length you had mentioned.
  21. druxey
    What does the mizen diameter at the partners measure on the draughts that you have, Dashicat?
  22. druxey
    Nice to see you back at the workbench, Siggi! I'm looking forward to see this model progress.
  23. druxey
    Beautifully executed, Ed!
  24. druxey
    One further thought: Measure the diameter of the mizen on the NMM (RMG) draughts. Extrapolating from that, what would be the mizen lower mast length? Perhaps that will settle the question for you.
  25. druxey
    I'm sure that there were exceptions in 1768, Dashicat. However, if you look at contemporary plans, generally you will only see mizen steps on the lower deck from the mid-1780's onward. Check out ships' plans images on the Royal Museums Greenwich web site.

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