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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Some excellent advice there from Mark and Richard.
  2. druxey
    Thank you, translators! Viele danken!
  3. druxey
    That metalwork was really labour-intensive! Lovely result, even if the pawl rim detail is mostly hidden. Your (b)log is very nicely presented as well, E&T. Good stuff!
  4. druxey
    Going into the era of composite ships, there was often a mix of old and (then) new technology. For instance, Cutty Sark has iron frames, wooden hull and riveted iron bulwarks. So is it not possible, at the time of the photographs in question, that iron bulwarks had replaced original wooden ones?
  5. druxey
    The brass I use has to be more than 60 years old and was my father's stock. Perhaps the percentage composition of it has changed since then.
  6. druxey
    Gute nacht, Kapitäne! Nicely done, Siggi!
  7. druxey
    They are only 'mandatory' if you actually need them! For instance, if you build kits with laser or CNC cut parts, you won't need a scroll saw. Get a scroll saw only if you have a lot of curved parts you need cut out yourself.
  8. druxey
    Jaager: the use of pH-neutral PVA and natural fibre is the best possible solution. Good suggestion!
  9. druxey
    Congrats on installing the shutter plank: time to wet your whistle!
  10. druxey
    Certainly a striking 'Captain's Fancy' color scheme!
  11. druxey
    Do let us know how this goes!
  12. druxey
    This topic comes up time and time again. Apart from cleaning the brass well, the blackening agent need to be diluted with water about 8:1. It works more slowly, but the black will not come off as you are experiencing.
  13. druxey
    Lovely work!
  14. druxey
    Your experience with brass chips makes me wonder if the type of brass you are using is 'free-machining brass' or another type? I've found that, at the right feed rate and speed, the brass comes off in long curls. Those embryo guns look very nice.
  15. druxey
    Glad you solved your problem, Jim! Now, enjoy your machine.
  16. druxey
    The blocks illustrated appear to be internal iron-stropped ones.
  17. druxey
    Don's advice is very sage.
  18. druxey
    Only add tools as you find you need them, or you'll end up spending money on items that gather dust. Certainly surgical (Swann Morton) scalpel blades are far superior to X-Acto ones, in my opinion.
  19. druxey
    Well, you've eliminated one possible cause, Jim. Now it is the turn of looking at the gibs on the ways. Antony's advice is good to follow.
  20. druxey
    Lovely attention to detail, Siggi!
  21. druxey
    What kind of model are you building? If you can supply more details, perhaps we can provide more helpful answers.
  22. druxey
    As Toni has said, the 'generic' set of plans and CD from Admiralty Models has all the information for building a properly framed 'Swan' class hull. If you wish to build a complete model of a specific ship, you will need additional plans. These are copies of the original draughts, often showing complete details of carved works, that are held by Royal Museums Greenwich, formerly called the National Maritime Museum. The plans you will need are Sheer and profile Forecastle, quarter deck and upper deck If fully detailing below: Lower deck and platforms (Optional is the Disposition of frame plan)
  23. druxey
    Lovely. I'm sure that in the real world, the two sides would be slightly different, so your model is super-realistic!
  24. druxey
    Remove the table again. Are there screws holding the base plate to the green sub-base that are loose? I'd check that before messing with the gib screws. I don't think your problem is anything to do with the ways and gibs.
  25. druxey
    Those adjusting screws are gib screws. They control the tightness of the slides by varying pressure on the metal pads. The are usually satisfactory straight out of the box. The rocking you describe sounds abnormal: the x-y table should be rock-steady. Are the Allen screws you used to attach the table to the base too long and bottoming out before the heads tighten down?

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