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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Lovely work as ever, Gaetan, but shouldn't the mortar be toned down a little? It looks very bright.
  2. Nice progress. I like your 'tiling' strategy with the framing stock. Never considered that.
  3. Well folks, I could have fudged things and said nothing - you would never have known, but I would. Thanks for the comments and support for this build.
  4. Cog: No, I use acrylic paint, so there are no issues. I still stretch the paper as if doing watercolour, though! Alan: Whatever gives you the impression that I make no misteaks? I repainted the decorative work to the correct length, cut the pieces out and glued them to the model. The cut edges are not an issue here, as they are hidden by mouldings top and bottom, and also overlapped at the ends. The friezes installed, I then cut, shaped and painted the planksheer rails above the decorative work and glued these to the model. The coach is still removable at this point, so giving a clear field of operation. Aft of the coach is another thwart with what appear to be mooring posts attached. These are next on the list.
  5. One step forward... and two back! I decided to make the decorative barge-boards as friezes; that is to say, on paper. These will be glued on the model. I stretched the paper on a board and painted the dark background. Once dry, the design was traced down using white transfer paper. The design was then applied using a 000 sable brush and gold acrylic paint. I tried to build the paint up three-dimensionally, as the deign was too fine to carve. When complete, I cut the pieces out carefully, only to find that I'd taken the pattern off to the wrong mark and the pieces were 3/16" too long. So... time for Take Two. I have to do these over again. Onward and upward!
  6. Do have fun with the bears - I mean trig and logs!
  7. I do hope that you are taking all precautions when using acetone. It's nasty stuff. Your frames look beautifully done.
  8. Ouch! Hope you are healing OK. Nice progress, Bill. Interesting to see the main stay collar running through the bulkhead above the door in the Van de Velde drawing (post #247).
  9. You are off to a great start, Tim. I look forward to watching your model develop.
  10. Yes, Dashicat: the colors are bluish for iron and yellow for bronze or 'mixt metal'. Jud: glad you are here to tell the tale. A sad event.
  11. Lots of work, Maury. However, now I see it, I'd get rid of those short little top timbers entirely. It's a) unlikely the vessel was built that way and it will save you a ton of work!
  12. Hard to see, but the staples should be flat, not round. Are those flat? Glad you sorted out your other bolts. Brass blackening agent (non-odorous) works equally well on copper, should you not wish to use liver of sulphur indoors.
  13. Your first attempt at carving will probably go in the scrap box, as will your second or third. But don't be discouraged; your skills will rapidly improve with experience. I've found that making a maquette of modelling clay first helps sort out problems in 3D much better than 2D sketches. If really desperate and you've the budget for it, commission a carving!
  14. There are also doors forward, Dan. You'll see them from another angle. The VIP's came aboard via the aftermost thwart and stepped down. I assume that the aft pair of doors were for a servant to hand things through. They are quite narrow: 20" at most.
  15. I believe that 'braces' here refer to the gudgeon straps. Steel, Naval Architecture, page 11: BRACES. Straps of iron, copper, or mixt metal, secured with bolts and screws to the stern post and bottom planks. In their after ends are holes to receive the pintles by which the rudder is hung.
  16. Thank you, everyone. Still a way to go, though. There's those twelve sweeps (oars) to make as well.... Gerhard: the elegance you see is that of the barge's designer, not mine. Jack: if you Google 'Prince Frederick's barge', you'll see that faux copper roofing color.
  17. The baking paper trick is a new one to me - that is a brilliant solution!
  18. Yeah, macro photography shows up every tiny blemish! I think most of us understand this and 'filter' these micro deficiencies out.
  19. The roof of the coach has been completed and installed. As this is curved, a suitable strategy for building it is needed. I considered carving it from solid, but this would be difficult to keep a consistent thickness. I decided to cooper it, that is to say, build it up as one would a barrel. The first step was to carve a form to build it on. I hollowed a piece of basswood to the appropriate radius, which in this case was 3½" full size (first photo). It was then shaped to the shape of the roof and marked out for the six planks that are nominally 1' 0" (scale) wide. These were cut and shaped with a slight bevel on each edge. They were then glued up on the form. Once complete, two 'rafters' were glued on the underside to maintain shape and integrity. A piece of fine sandpaper was rubber cemented to the form and the upper side of the roof sanded (second and third photos). The outer side edges of the roof were sanded flat, to fit the coach top edges. Following the color used on Prince Frederick's barge, I painted the roof a blueish green to imitate a verdigris copper roof. On the actual barge, the roof appears to be covered with painted canvas. I used a mix of viridian green, some white and then toned down with the addition of a touch of black. The top of the capitals on the coach were also painted this color and the roof glued in place. Next is the decorative work at the stern.
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