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druxey

NRG Member
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Everything posted by druxey

  1. A rather startling subject heading! Perhaps something along the lines of the illustration?
  2. Jack: how do you sharpen a small macaroni chisel? I've always been curious about that.
  3. The extra 'frames', parallel to the keel, are called hawse timbers. If you look at other framed models on this site, you will see how that works. Of course, Hahn has stylized real world framing. Usually there are four or five hawse timbers per side.
  4. Sawdust Dave: All I was trying to say was consider the idea: I wasn't pushing that you go in that direction. I certainly didn't mean to criticize your work! If you took me wrong, I apologize. Please don't immolate anyone!
  5. So, consider a little change in direction, Sawdust Dave. Do you want to leave five sub-standard models or one really good one? I know which way I jump!
  6. If that dark wood is ebony, be very careful of your lungs! I would never use it myself. Try holly or pear that is dyed black. Either bends and glues much more easily and is less toxic.
  7. I think Chuck has it absolutely right: you cannot rush and be sloppy if you want a great result.
  8. Nice work so far, Hans Christian. Use a water-based glue and wash off any excess before it sets. Then there won't be any glue stains. If it's any help, I built my first big framed model (over a metre long) on my dining room table!
  9. Bitten sie: in Englisch schreiben! (Please write in English.) A beautiful result!
  10. Unfortunately, 'bad ideas' are still around and always will be. Sure, CA is a great idea for those in a rush and want a quick fix, but they are generally not interested in the longevity of their work. If you are spending months or years on a model anyway, spend just a little more time and the model will, hopefully, last for a century or more without needing extensive repair work.
  11. Have you read the 'pinned' Primer on Planking here? Usually narrow tick strips are used to measure girth at various points along the hull (in your case along the bulkhead edges). Be aware that after mathematically dividing the hull surface into bands, you will still need to finesse the resulting curves until everything looks smooth from all angles. Then you can sub-divide each band into the individual strakes.
  12. Oh, excellent! Much more filling than an amuse-bouche! Bon appetite, monsieur.
  13. Certainly there are a number of tricks to learn when centering anything in an independent 4-jaw chuck!
  14. Surely you are not going to put the model in the garbage, Gaetan! If so, let me know which night it will be put out....
  15. The Georgian first rate model's deck looks distinctly 20th century in style with its tree nailing and lack of signs of age. As Mark mentioned, usually that style of model had scored sheet decking. Also, decks below the weather deck on other Georgian 'takeapart' models I've seen are often unplanked. I'm skeptical of that one! However, the 1770's cutter deck certainly looks authentic and the nibbed planking cannot be discounted. The question with the latter model is whether the planking is also tapered - it's hard to tell from Chuck's photo.
  16. Your funnel grille is very convincing, Dan, but wouldn't photo etching have been an easier route to have taken here?
  17. Nice to see the deck planking done as it actually was in those days! No excuses any more, folks....
  18. Best of wishes for tomorrow, Jonny. And, as far as puppies and training them go, I've been there, done that! Not much to see in the way of models at the NMM now (now renamed Royal Museums Greenwich), but the view from Maze Hill and the Observatory is still well worth the visit. The pub on Park Vista east of the Museum, The Plume of Feathers, is a good spot too!
  19. Animated figures aboard really make a difference! Good stuff, Magnus.
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