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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Yes, that's more-or-less my 'take' on it as well, Paul. However, the floorboards rest on the keelson and their outer ends against the frames. I had already mentioned ZAZ7154 in post #177, a useful reference. Joel: my carving proficiency will never equal that of Mr. Gibbons! Carl: I hope you found the reference with help from Endlesshunt.
  2. Carl: the photo I referred to is on http://uk-england-guides.blogspot.com Gerhard: thanks for those links. The inside photo I mention is of the rowing area, not the cabin.
  3. Paul: I have found a useful photograph of the inside of Prince Frederick's barge (copyright, so cannot show it here) that confirms athwartship boards. These appear to be about 8" to 10" wide and painted red. There are also moveable vertical footboards for the rowers - a detail I've never seen or noticed before in small boat models. I was wondering if there were turned supporting pillars under the thwarts and indeed there are. All these will keep me busy for a while!
  4. Yes: the back of the chisel should be honed to a polished finish. The reflection of the wood gives you a guide as to when your chisel is vertical. Don't try to chop off thick slices this way: if you do, the edge will tend to move as you cut through the wood leaving an angled cut. Thin slices, please!
  5. Looks like you go to the top of the class, John! Remarkable.
  6. Thanks for the comments, gentlemen. Now I'm back, it's time to begin fitting out. The first item will be the footwaling (the floorboards). These were laid athwartships rather than longitudinally, according to the specifications for a different ceremonial barge of this period (ZAZ7154). Gerhard: the planking is 1/64" thick, or a scale ¾".
  7. Well, the fun really begins.... Good stuff, Alan; you are getting your feet wet. Keep those chisels sharp!
  8. Well, you are learning a lot in a short time, Louie! It's good to think out your strategies several steps ahead....
  9. Sorry about delay in responding. I'm away right now. Small joints don't really need clamping: gentle finger pressure works for me.
  10. Check the planking tutorials on this site.
  11. Just catching up with your progress. Making that rail in sections makes good sense. Nice work!
  12. All those little holes? That must have been very frustrating. Nice work, though.
  13. Certainly refining one joint at a time is a good strategy. Also gluing one joint at a time is. Multiple joints and you'll be chasing things around and almost guarantee failure. I personally don't use a jig, but rely on the two pieces I'm joining to line up perfectly on a copy of the assembly underneath. Also, watch out for creep and cumulative error as you build up a multi-part assembly. Adjust as necessary on - pardon the pun - the fly. Also, for model work, I've found power tools a snare and delusion. They always remove just a bit more than you want. But you know that already, right?
  14. Starting over rather than trying to correct is a bold choice, but a good one. I hope this version goes well for you, Michael.
  15. Endless: some contemporary models and plans do show the discharge tube exiting the counter. Looking great, Chuck!
  16. That's a flying start! You've a lot of pieces cut already.
  17. Looking lovely, Mike. Are you planning to pin the windlass to the deck as well?
  18. Pop a plastic sheet over the model and dish!
  19. Steven: I've finally had time to look at and absorb your preface to the build. Fascinating reading! Nice to see you actually get started in earnest.
  20. Looked after and not abused, those Unimats keep on trucking. Nice set of ways, Jerry!
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