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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Time for a progress report. The planking has slowly been spiled, cut, bent and hung as far as below the sheer strake. The first picture (arrowed) demonstrates the bevel for the land of the next strake. This was formed using the sanding stick mentioned earlier. Note that the bevel alters - and disappears - as the hull form changes. The second photo shows the transition of the strakes at the stern from hooding into the stern post rabbet to running out over the tiny transom. Only two strakes end on the transom. Forming the junction of these two strakes neatly was tricky. The last photograph shows off the elegance of the hull form. At this stage I bevelled the stem so that the planking appears to flow out of it. After the sheer strake is added there will be clean-up and minor adjustments to make.
  2. druxey
    Just discovered your log, Matti. Rigging gets easier the more you do it. First time is always a stress test! Very nice work; one wouldn't know it was your first ship model. As for your next model, there are a lot of possibilities. First, what kind of ship appeals to you: wood or metal? What time period? Then, how much room do you have and what scale do you like to work at? Answering these questions will narrow down the choices a bit.
  3. druxey
    I bet the holder is a more comfortable item to hold!
  4. druxey
    Better and better each time, John. If you are offering plans, I imagine 1:48 and 1:72 would be popular. For those with limited space, 1:96 as well? Apart from a general lines plan, folk might want profile (internal deck arrangements), lofted frames, and deck plans. The really ambitious will hope to see masts, spars and rigging plans as well, if you want to go there.
  5. druxey
    Wood will move where it wants to go. Start with a really straight-grained piece from which to cut your keel. It will need to be pinned in some way to your plug. This will keep it straight until your garboard strakes are fitted to it, giving everything a 'T' section assembly that will help maintain straightness.
  6. druxey
    Beautifully done, Ed!
  7. druxey
    I agree that, on a model, pure black caulking is a little harsh-looking. Your model is looking very sweet.
  8. druxey
    A thought, Steven: put in every other frame on the plug, then bend in the alternate ones after the shell comes off the plug. Would that make life easier? Thanks for the compliment. Speaking of lightly built, the hospital barge is 37' 0" long with a keel 3" square before the rabbet is taken out and the frames will be a mere ¾" square.
  9. druxey
    Welcome back, Tom. We wait, agog.
  10. druxey
    Aeee! When I was playing with SketchUp, I never got as far as figuring out strategies to defeat its defaults. That is a great example of fooling the program to submit to your will. Thank you.
  11. druxey
    Five strakes a side are completed now. Note that I had to pare back the extreme ends of the plug so that the planks would run smoothly into the rabbet fore and aft. With this hull form the spiled planks are only slightly curved, except at the stern.
  12. druxey
    I'm with Chuck. No stress on the plank, no stress on you!
  13. druxey
    Dick: I had no trouble planking with the frames recessed in the plug when the plug was well waxed.
  14. druxey
    Thanks for the explanation, Michael. That all makes sense to me now!
  15. druxey
    Steven: see my comments in my Greenwich Hospital barge log. With carvel planking, edge glued planks will not hold together as they do in a clinker build! There is insufficient gluing area for this. You'll also need to devise some method to stabilize the thin keel to keep it straight until the planking is on.
  16. druxey
    Thanks, everyone, for your comments. Steven: I've used this method with carvel construction, but with one difference: frames first. You can either file grooves in the plug for the frames and bend them in, or form the plug to inside of frame. I use the first method. In both cases the plug is made deeper and extends above the sheer line. (You can see this set back area in shadow in the photograph.) This area is used to spot-glue the frames to. Just make sure everything is well waxed to prevent sticking! The boat looks a little rough when first taken off the plug, but cleans up nicely as you can see.
  17. druxey
    Looking more and more respectable each time, John. Bien fait, monsieur!
  18. druxey
    So you saw 'in the air', without fixing the ring? I would think it difficult holding it in one hand while sawing with the other. Also, I'm not clear how the round 'L' shaped gizmo works. Would you mind explaining, please?
  19. druxey
    Off to a flying start, Jerry. And good lighting helps a lot!
  20. druxey
    Superb work, Albert. Keep those progress photos coming!
  21. druxey
    Three strakes a side completed now. Rubber bands and small soldering clips make fine hold-downs while roughly shaped planks are drying out.
  22. druxey
    Thank you, Mark! Jim: the strength of the assembly at this stage is surprising, even though the individual parts are so flimsy. If the planks are cut accurately so that there is no stress in the hull, it will not distort. In past experience, sometimes the breadth will expand slightly when the shell is complete, but this is easily corrected when the internal elements are added, producing a very strong model indeed. The barge I'm modelling is not the Prince Frederick's one in Mark's photos: this one, while similar, has far less carved work. However, it will be a lot of fun to do when I get there!
  23. druxey
    Nice details, Mark. Thank you. The carved works are wonderfully executed. The rowing benches on these barges do have a central element to them. The items I'm particularly interested in are the standards supporting the ends of the thwarts and whether there are also supporting standards above the transom. These cannot be seen on the usual photographs of the barge.
  24. druxey
    I smiled at the mention of gummed brown tape. This material was used to 'plank' a bulkhead style model I made when I was about ten or eleven years old. The result was much less successful (the bulkheads were too far apart) than your use of it in making some very nice mast hoops.
  25. druxey
    The second strake is in on the port side. One can see the gain at the bow and stern, as well as how the boat keeps its shape when taken off the plug. From here on it is simply a matter of spiling and shaping each plank as I work up (down!) to the sheer strake. All one need do is make sure to conform to the mark-out on the plug.

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