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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Think Commodore 64....
  2. druxey
    Coming along nicely, Mark. Try to resist doing too much sanding until planking is complete. What do you mean by '3" off'? Do you mean creep or cumulative error compared to your lining off of the planking runs? You can easily correct this by either making remaining strakes fractionally wider or narrower to compensate. Just don't let this become a big issue when it comes down to the last strake!
  3. druxey
    All the best with the move, Ben. We will await your return with bated breath....
  4. druxey
    You forgot, Gaetan? Please remember next time!
  5. druxey
    Just catching up with your log, John. She's looking lovely.
  6. druxey
    I think elevating screws were coming in around that time, but one supposes older models of carronade were probably still in use. An exception was a 68lb carronade from New York of 1782 which is illustrated with a screw elevating device (Caruana)
  7. druxey
    TFFM refers to trunnions on long guns, not carronades.
  8. druxey
    Technique is great, Popeye, but I'd be wary of using ferrous metal in a model. It can rust under certain conditions. Brass or copper are better choices.
  9. druxey
    Christian: The old-timers used both methods to get the timberheads in the positions that they needed them. As master shipwright, you need to make those decisions based on what makes the most practical sense.
  10. druxey
    Check out Scale Hardware as Mark suggests.
  11. druxey
    Nice looking metalwork, Hartmut. Well done.
  12. druxey
    Only early carronades (1780-c.1795) had trunnions. Later models had 'joints' or lugs underneath. There were many changes in their design over the first 20 or so years. The elevating screw was a later development. You should be safe using a quoin.
  13. druxey
    Very nicely done, Nils. However, I find the rivet heads 'read' a bit too prominently. Perhaps it's the fact that they are reflective at the moment?
  14. druxey
    Just found this log. Lovely work so far, Mark.
  15. druxey
    Your drafting so far looks very nice, Christian! Do the timberheads on the forecastle line up with those toptimbers?
  16. druxey
    Or, if so moved, you could cheaply cobble a ropewalk together for yourself from odds and ends. You mention a Byrnes' saw. Unless you are planning on scratch or semi-scratch building, that might be overkill. You don't need a Rolls Royce to commute!
  17. druxey
    Even so, the topsails and topgallants don't ever attach to the yards below them as in the original version of that illustration! Also would the ship really have spread a sail above the gaff at that time?
  18. druxey
    That illustration is quite bizarre, the more one looks at it!
  19. druxey
    Two fingers of Captain Morgan is terrific. Oh, yes, so is your model, Dan!
  20. druxey
    I've done a 'net search for any illustration of such pump but - pardon the expression - come up dry! Would the Science Museum, Kensington, be able to assist you?
  21. druxey
    An extra footnote: should there be a small glue blob in a corner that you missed when cleaning up, apply a spot or two of isopropanol on a brush a few times to soften the excess glue. Then scrape the softened glue off using a dental elevator or micro chisel.
  22. druxey
    I don't think it's fading from sunlight. The color is uniform on both sides and hull bottoms. One would expect a gradual fading as the surfaces turned horizontal, and more on one side of the model than the other.
  23. druxey
    Remember that there would be some buoyancy when the rudder was immersed, Jud.
  24. druxey
    A means to lift the rudder clear when required makes good sense. The only other method would be to pass a line under the sole. The hole appears to be at little below waterline level in the Royal George example. (That upper hole in the perspective sketch looks to be from erosion or other damage.) The two holes in Constitution's rudder are so near the sole they could only be used when dry-docked.
  25. druxey
    Joel is absolutely correct: don't take your eyes off the blade until it stops rotating.

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