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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    If I'm visualizing your description correctly, the display idea sounds very good. Do you have a sketch or rendering of this presentation for us to see?
  2. druxey
    That's an interesting mix of wood and iron standards! Beautiful work, as usual, Albert.
  3. druxey
    Thanks for everyone's continued interest. More pattern making is required to define the shape of the aft deck. I've modified the design of Prince Frederick's barge to suit this vessel. On this deck, furthest aft, will be a raised area for the steersman, but that cannot be defined yet. The aft deck with its scuttle needs to be made and installed first, as well as a thin panelled lining on the inner sides of the bulwarks.
  4. druxey
    Good progress, Paul, and interesting artifacts.
  5. druxey
    Thanks, Siggi, for your helpful contribution.
  6. druxey
    Bee-utiful, Glenn!
  7. druxey
    That second photograph (https://blog.firedra...015/01/7531.jpg) should answer your own question, Siggi. Thanks for the link: that particular image hadn't turned up for me when I searched.
  8. druxey
    Time for a small update. The cabin floor was made in the same way as that for the forward section of the footwaling. In this case the wood was left 'bright' and the joints slightly enhanced using pencil lead. The finish was dilute sanding sealer. The footwaling aft of the cabin will be installed at a higher level, with a small scuttle for access. Some pattern-making will first be required, though.
  9. druxey
    Somehow I missed the last few months' updates, so just caught up with you. Lovely work there on such a small scale, Clare!
  10. druxey
    I'm sure that there would have been battens of some sort to support the footwaling plank ends in the actual boat, Carl and Joel. As these would be hidden (as are the floor/futtock joints), I omitted them. Thanks, everyone, for your continued interest and likes.
  11. druxey
    The footwaling is now complete, after making a false start. I initially tried cutting and bevelling each board to length in situ. The result, as you can see, was not pretty. Having thought things through, I then made a card template which was used to actually attach the boards to. When complete, I channelled out the card so that the boards would sit at the correct height on the keelson, then glued the assembly in. This gave a much improved result.
  12. druxey
    Time for a progress photo. It shows a 'stand-in' footwaling piece positioned so that the first pre-painted board is correctly placed. The pre-painted strips, 10" wide and ⅝" thick are also shown in this photo.
  13. druxey
    No worries, Paul. I hope you continue to recover. Thank you for your interest and contributing to this thread.
  14. druxey
    I had the privilege of attending the NMM course a few years ago and it was very informative and thought-provoking. Thanks for flagging this new offering. I wish I could go!
  15. druxey
    Thanks, Gerhard. I've already seen all those images. The Greenwich Hospital barge is not as elaborate - thank goodness!
  16. druxey
    Odd that the rake of the stern in that Justice draught is so elegantly raked, but the headwork looks like a turned-up nose!
  17. druxey
    So, back to work. I cut strips of footwaling to scale size, then cut a trial piece. This is exactly 4' 0" long, whether by design or coincidence I'm not sure. The actual footwaling will be painted a subdued maroon color, rather than the bright red of ships' bulwarks. There is evidence of this in paintings as well as on the state barge of Charles II, although this boat is obviously earlier and has been heavily restored.
  18. druxey
    Both back as well as bevel should be mirror-like. Check out the sharpening system ('Stone pond') and jig that Lee Valley has. This makes sharpening much easier than you might think.
  19. druxey
    Yes, that's more-or-less my 'take' on it as well, Paul. However, the floorboards rest on the keelson and their outer ends against the frames. I had already mentioned ZAZ7154 in post #177, a useful reference. Joel: my carving proficiency will never equal that of Mr. Gibbons! Carl: I hope you found the reference with help from Endlesshunt.
  20. druxey
    Carl: the photo I referred to is on http://uk-england-guides.blogspot.com Gerhard: thanks for those links. The inside photo I mention is of the rowing area, not the cabin.
  21. druxey
    Paul: I have found a useful photograph of the inside of Prince Frederick's barge (copyright, so cannot show it here) that confirms athwartship boards. These appear to be about 8" to 10" wide and painted red. There are also moveable vertical footboards for the rowers - a detail I've never seen or noticed before in small boat models. I was wondering if there were turned supporting pillars under the thwarts and indeed there are. All these will keep me busy for a while!
  22. druxey
    Yes: the back of the chisel should be honed to a polished finish. The reflection of the wood gives you a guide as to when your chisel is vertical. Don't try to chop off thick slices this way: if you do, the edge will tend to move as you cut through the wood leaving an angled cut. Thin slices, please!
  23. druxey
    Looks like you go to the top of the class, John! Remarkable.
  24. druxey
    Thanks for the comments, gentlemen. Now I'm back, it's time to begin fitting out. The first item will be the footwaling (the floorboards). These were laid athwartships rather than longitudinally, according to the specifications for a different ceremonial barge of this period (ZAZ7154). Gerhard: the planking is 1/64" thick, or a scale ¾".
  25. druxey
    Well, the fun really begins.... Good stuff, Alan; you are getting your feet wet. Keep those chisels sharp!

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