druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Tom's idea is a good one, but I'd try this out on a sample of fabric before you make a whole suit of sails, just in case it doesn't work!
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Fastening of the false keel
druxey replied to dafi's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
While I'm sure that staple spacing was calculated using some proportional formula, Alex, the photos I was looking at showed much closer spacing than you suggest. -
Lovely work, Alex!
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Looks like a very nice job so far, Ted.
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Fastening of the false keel
druxey replied to dafi's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
The photos seem to indicate a spacing of about 12", judged from the length of the staples. -
Fastening of the false keel
druxey replied to dafi's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Good question. I've not come across any specification, but think 18" to 24" would be reasonable. -
Your model is looking very good, Fam. Might I suggest you look at your lining out with the hull right way up? I found that things looked very good while the hull was upside down, but more adjustments were needed once I was looking at it as one would normally see the model. I like the method you are developing for scupper linings. However, as the holes come through at an angle, would the flared ends be more oval in shape than round?
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Lovely! But would she have had royal yards?
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Magnifique, Gaetan! She looks terrific.
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As you get used to working with wood, you will be surprised at what you can do with it.
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Scratchbuilt Hull Decision
druxey replied to CDR_Ret's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Ah: thanks for the clarification, Terry. One composite method of forming the hull would be bulkheads with filler pieces between to form a solid landing for the planks. This would avoid flat spots. (see the Hohenzollern 1660 model thread by Mr. Hollum). -
Scratchbuilt Hull Decision
druxey replied to CDR_Ret's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Well, I suppose fidelity means plank on frame. This is a challenging project that other methods avoid. If you wish to go this route, I strongly recommend you try a cross-sectional model first. This will give you a good idea (and lots of practice!) in building accurate frames. There are several c/s models on offer right now. For instance, there is the Triton c/s on this site, or the Echo c/s from Admiralty Models. I'd consider either of these to get you up to speed before you tackle the complexities of even a 'straightforward' full hull. -
Your best sail cloth and technique
druxey replied to steven sturgis's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
There's more on using SilkSpan for sails in a new booklet by SeaWatchBooks, or as a new chapter in a new edition of Swan IV. -
Landlubber Mike's technique for furled sails
druxey replied to Landlubber Mike's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
There's a booklet on realistic looking sailmaking now available from SeWatchBooks, or as a chapter in the new edition of Swan IV. -
And remember to let the wood dry out completely before permanently attaching the plank. If you don't, the wood will shrink and you'll end up with gaps between the planks.
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Somehow, I missed your January 3 posting and am a bit bothered about that fifth deadeye and chain. Usually if modifications are made, these are drawn out in detail neatly, using either a different color ink or with dashed lines. This rough pencil addition looks like a proposal that was not, in fact, carried out. Just my opinion.
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The plug is not wrong: the upper edge is the top of the removable wash boards, not the top of the sheer strake. Marking the plug out first will take care of this.
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Is that a fusee movement that the chain goes on? Very neatly done, Siggi.
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The foremost fore and main shrouds would have been served all over. The others would be served along the middle ¼ of the pair's overall length.
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Sounds like a rarity, Alan. Perhaps a major collection, such as the British Library, holds a copy? Certainly nothing showed up on abebooks.com
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Beautifully executed, Nils! I would have been tempted to fake the bolts.
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I don't know whether this helps the discussion or not, but hinge knuckles on sweep port lids are on the forward side in contemporary models.
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My sympathy and condolences to you, Toni. It's not an easy decision to make: been there, done that.
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It's mildly acidic, Frankie. Conservator's wax is pH neutral.
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The door, Dan, the door! Please close it so both Pud and you may live out your natural life spans. Your riggers did a good running repair, though.
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