Jump to content

druxey

NRG Member
  • Posts

    12,503
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by druxey

  1. Tom's idea is a good one, but I'd try this out on a sample of fabric before you make a whole suit of sails, just in case it doesn't work!
  2. While I'm sure that staple spacing was calculated using some proportional formula, Alex, the photos I was looking at showed much closer spacing than you suggest.
  3. The photos seem to indicate a spacing of about 12", judged from the length of the staples.
  4. Good question. I've not come across any specification, but think 18" to 24" would be reasonable.
  5. Your model is looking very good, Fam. Might I suggest you look at your lining out with the hull right way up? I found that things looked very good while the hull was upside down, but more adjustments were needed once I was looking at it as one would normally see the model. I like the method you are developing for scupper linings. However, as the holes come through at an angle, would the flared ends be more oval in shape than round?
  6. Lovely! But would she have had royal yards?
  7. As you get used to working with wood, you will be surprised at what you can do with it.
  8. Ah: thanks for the clarification, Terry. One composite method of forming the hull would be bulkheads with filler pieces between to form a solid landing for the planks. This would avoid flat spots. (see the Hohenzollern 1660 model thread by Mr. Hollum).
  9. Well, I suppose fidelity means plank on frame. This is a challenging project that other methods avoid. If you wish to go this route, I strongly recommend you try a cross-sectional model first. This will give you a good idea (and lots of practice!) in building accurate frames. There are several c/s models on offer right now. For instance, there is the Triton c/s on this site, or the Echo c/s from Admiralty Models. I'd consider either of these to get you up to speed before you tackle the complexities of even a 'straightforward' full hull.
  10. There's more on using SilkSpan for sails in a new booklet by SeaWatchBooks, or as a new chapter in a new edition of Swan IV.
  11. There's a booklet on realistic looking sailmaking now available from SeWatchBooks, or as a chapter in the new edition of Swan IV.
  12. And remember to let the wood dry out completely before permanently attaching the plank. If you don't, the wood will shrink and you'll end up with gaps between the planks.
  13. Somehow, I missed your January 3 posting and am a bit bothered about that fifth deadeye and chain. Usually if modifications are made, these are drawn out in detail neatly, using either a different color ink or with dashed lines. This rough pencil addition looks like a proposal that was not, in fact, carried out. Just my opinion.
  14. The plug is not wrong: the upper edge is the top of the removable wash boards, not the top of the sheer strake. Marking the plug out first will take care of this.
  15. Is that a fusee movement that the chain goes on? Very neatly done, Siggi.
  16. The foremost fore and main shrouds would have been served all over. The others would be served along the middle ¼ of the pair's overall length.
  17. Sounds like a rarity, Alan. Perhaps a major collection, such as the British Library, holds a copy? Certainly nothing showed up on abebooks.com
  18. I don't know whether this helps the discussion or not, but hinge knuckles on sweep port lids are on the forward side in contemporary models.
  19. My sympathy and condolences to you, Toni. It's not an easy decision to make: been there, done that.
  20. It's mildly acidic, Frankie. Conservator's wax is pH neutral.
  21. The door, Dan, the door! Please close it so both Pud and you may live out your natural life spans. Your riggers did a good running repair, though.
×
×
  • Create New...