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Everything posted by druxey
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To spile or not to spile...
druxey replied to fish's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Well, practice varied between English and Continental shipbuilding. Generally British practice was to drop planks just under the wale as necessary. -
To spile or not to spile...
druxey replied to fish's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Chris: see my post #6 for the shape of a plank on a bow similar to Endeavour's. The shape is not what you'd anticipate. -
Michael: I'm planning on using Castello boxwood for all the elements. Usually I plank in holly, but the scantlings are so light on this craft that I need all the mechanical integrity I can get. The keel is only 3" square - 1/16" actual before cutting in the rabbet. (This instalment coming soon to an MSW site near you!)
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To spile or not to spile...
druxey replied to fish's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Chris: in real life these planks would have been cut from narrower, naturally curved wood. -
Well, some progress. The first photo looks confusing, but what i've done is rubber cement on the offcuts to the assembled lifts in order to be able to scroll-saw the profile of the boat. The second photo shows the profile cut into the starboard half-hull. The third shows both half-hulls cut and ready to shape. The last photo shows the central spine elements laid out for cutting. (The elements of this were not delineated on the original draught, so I had to be my own master shipwright.) More anon. Thanks for the 'likes' and comments.
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Thanks, folks. Yes, Joel, there will be cushioned seats and drapes, as well as a certain amount of giltwork. No unicorns, alas. Mark: the two hull halves are so that a central spacer can be inserted. The remaining slot will hold the keel, stem and stern in place while planking up. All will be revealed in time! Certainly making the plug in two halves helps maintain symmetry as well.
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Thanks for the comments and 'likes', everyone. The next step was to cut out the various lifts. Copies of the half breadth were rubber-cemented on to the prepared blanks. The blanks were also paired together with rubber cement and cut on the scroll saw. The photo shows one half of the plug dry-assembled with the other half laid out. The overall length of this hull is a little under 10".
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I'm now completely hooked on your Saturday updates, so please keep them coming, Glenn! I like that you decided to include the repaired cam frame, but don't yet see the iron wedge. Planning on including this?
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Now for something a little different: the Greenwich Hospital ceremonial barge of 1832. There is a draught in the RMG, formerly NMM, collection of this lovely sleek barge that makes an attractive subject. (Image allowable use by RMG.) Normally such small craft are modelled at a larger scale, but as I've been building at 1:48 scale for decades, why stop now? This is a part-time 'fun' project between other professional work, so this log may be rather sporadic. The first task was to develop a workable set of lines from the rather sparse draught. There were relatively few body sections (somewhat fanciful, as it turned out!) and no waterlines. One item that tripped me up for a while was what appeared to be the line of a 'knuckle' on the half breadth. While it more or less fitted the fore body, I could not get this to reconcile aft. Eventually I saw two very faint lines on the body plan: it was, in fact, a proof diagonal. Duh! Once I'd figured that out, everything fell into place and a fair hull form resulted. The clinker planked hull will be built on a plug, so basswood was prepared to exact thickness for the two half-hulls, less the thickness of the keel, stem and stern posts. One interesting complication is the pink-style extension of the stern (see sketch). Next up: cutting out the various lifts and assembling them.
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Hegner (Swiss, I believe) are the Rolls-Royce of scroll saws, and commensurately expensive. Frolick is a fortunate fellow to own one. Almost as good, but much less expensive, is the DeWalt 778. I've used this saw for 15 years. It works beautifully and vibration-free.
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Interesting solution to your dilemma, Ed. Seems like a very reasonable one, too!
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Ed, I once successfully sanded a wale after masking off the planking above and below with tape for safety. Hopefully any polymerized oil has not penetrated too far into a dense, close-grained hardwood.
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Cutter Cheerful 1806 by rafine - FINISHED
druxey replied to rafine's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
My smile for the morning, Bob. Very nice progress.- 525 replies
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Full size mizzen topmast construction pictures
druxey replied to jcoby's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Good one! Thanks for posting this. -
Echo by Maury S - FINISHED - Cross-Section
druxey replied to Maury S's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Further to yesterday's post, here is a photo of a baseboard that was veneered and banded using Titebond. The other advantage is that you can spot-tack the pieces in place: they don't 'grab' like contact cement. A little heat will reverse the bond so that you can reposition a piece if you need to.- 324 replies
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To spile or not to spile...
druxey replied to fish's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
It's nice not to have to fight and wrestle planks, isn't it? -
Echo by Maury S - FINISHED - Cross-Section
druxey replied to Maury S's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Titebond is good if used the right way! Coat both the veneer and the substrate with glue. Allow to dry. Then iron the veneer to the substrate. (Careful not to have the iron too hot. A layer of paper will act as a bit of insurance.) Works a treat, and no contact cement fumes or strings! You could try ironing your wavy veneer down, Maury. Rubber cement is not permanent, BTW/- 324 replies
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Nice detail, Toni! It's amazing the number of bolts of various sorts that went into a vessel this size.
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