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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Christian: The old-timers used both methods to get the timberheads in the positions that they needed them. As master shipwright, you need to make those decisions based on what makes the most practical sense.
  2. druxey
    Check out Scale Hardware as Mark suggests.
  3. druxey
    Nice looking metalwork, Hartmut. Well done.
  4. druxey
    Only early carronades (1780-c.1795) had trunnions. Later models had 'joints' or lugs underneath. There were many changes in their design over the first 20 or so years. The elevating screw was a later development. You should be safe using a quoin.
  5. druxey
    Very nicely done, Nils. However, I find the rivet heads 'read' a bit too prominently. Perhaps it's the fact that they are reflective at the moment?
  6. druxey
    Just found this log. Lovely work so far, Mark.
  7. druxey
    Your drafting so far looks very nice, Christian! Do the timberheads on the forecastle line up with those toptimbers?
  8. druxey
    Or, if so moved, you could cheaply cobble a ropewalk together for yourself from odds and ends. You mention a Byrnes' saw. Unless you are planning on scratch or semi-scratch building, that might be overkill. You don't need a Rolls Royce to commute!
  9. druxey
    Even so, the topsails and topgallants don't ever attach to the yards below them as in the original version of that illustration! Also would the ship really have spread a sail above the gaff at that time?
  10. druxey
    That illustration is quite bizarre, the more one looks at it!
  11. druxey
    Two fingers of Captain Morgan is terrific. Oh, yes, so is your model, Dan!
  12. druxey
    I've done a 'net search for any illustration of such pump but - pardon the expression - come up dry! Would the Science Museum, Kensington, be able to assist you?
  13. druxey
    An extra footnote: should there be a small glue blob in a corner that you missed when cleaning up, apply a spot or two of isopropanol on a brush a few times to soften the excess glue. Then scrape the softened glue off using a dental elevator or micro chisel.
  14. druxey
    I don't think it's fading from sunlight. The color is uniform on both sides and hull bottoms. One would expect a gradual fading as the surfaces turned horizontal, and more on one side of the model than the other.
  15. druxey
    Remember that there would be some buoyancy when the rudder was immersed, Jud.
  16. druxey
    A means to lift the rudder clear when required makes good sense. The only other method would be to pass a line under the sole. The hole appears to be at little below waterline level in the Royal George example. (That upper hole in the perspective sketch looks to be from erosion or other damage.) The two holes in Constitution's rudder are so near the sole they could only be used when dry-docked.
  17. druxey
    Joel is absolutely correct: don't take your eyes off the blade until it stops rotating.
  18. druxey
    Oh dear, Tom, what a tale of woe. I hope you let the neighbour's kids know what unthinking consequences their actions had. I'm glad that you've recovered your sense of equanimity and are prepared to begin anew. You will have your cheering team reassembled here shortly. On thinking over your story, I suppose that the total loss of the Royal Navy's Camilla could be attributed to the War of American Independence....
  19. druxey
    I hope you heal well and without complication, Alan. Please play safely!
  20. druxey
    Agree with all the above remarks! Very nice indeed.
  21. druxey
    I find a small round watercolor paintbrush idea for applying glue to small joints. A larger wet brush takes care of any squeeze-out before the glue sets up. Make sure that you rinse the brushes well before glue sets in them!
  22. druxey
    Looks good so far, Maury. You may need to add some shims aft on the deadwood: you won't want 'floating' planks there.
  23. druxey
    If you can afford an electric raising and lowering table....
  24. druxey
    Whoops! Correct, Robin: upward and forward.
  25. druxey
    The illustration is of one of the famous 18th century Kabuki theater actors, Otani Oniji II, by the woodcut artist Toshusai Sharaku.

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