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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    I had the privilege of attending the NMM course a few years ago and it was very informative and thought-provoking. Thanks for flagging this new offering. I wish I could go!
  2. druxey
    Thanks, Gerhard. I've already seen all those images. The Greenwich Hospital barge is not as elaborate - thank goodness!
  3. druxey
    Odd that the rake of the stern in that Justice draught is so elegantly raked, but the headwork looks like a turned-up nose!
  4. druxey
    So, back to work. I cut strips of footwaling to scale size, then cut a trial piece. This is exactly 4' 0" long, whether by design or coincidence I'm not sure. The actual footwaling will be painted a subdued maroon color, rather than the bright red of ships' bulwarks. There is evidence of this in paintings as well as on the state barge of Charles II, although this boat is obviously earlier and has been heavily restored.
  5. druxey
    Both back as well as bevel should be mirror-like. Check out the sharpening system ('Stone pond') and jig that Lee Valley has. This makes sharpening much easier than you might think.
  6. druxey
    Yes, that's more-or-less my 'take' on it as well, Paul. However, the floorboards rest on the keelson and their outer ends against the frames. I had already mentioned ZAZ7154 in post #177, a useful reference. Joel: my carving proficiency will never equal that of Mr. Gibbons! Carl: I hope you found the reference with help from Endlesshunt.
  7. druxey
    Carl: the photo I referred to is on http://uk-england-guides.blogspot.com Gerhard: thanks for those links. The inside photo I mention is of the rowing area, not the cabin.
  8. druxey
    Paul: I have found a useful photograph of the inside of Prince Frederick's barge (copyright, so cannot show it here) that confirms athwartship boards. These appear to be about 8" to 10" wide and painted red. There are also moveable vertical footboards for the rowers - a detail I've never seen or noticed before in small boat models. I was wondering if there were turned supporting pillars under the thwarts and indeed there are. All these will keep me busy for a while!
  9. druxey
    Yes: the back of the chisel should be honed to a polished finish. The reflection of the wood gives you a guide as to when your chisel is vertical. Don't try to chop off thick slices this way: if you do, the edge will tend to move as you cut through the wood leaving an angled cut. Thin slices, please!
  10. druxey
    Looks like you go to the top of the class, John! Remarkable.
  11. druxey
    Thanks for the comments, gentlemen. Now I'm back, it's time to begin fitting out. The first item will be the footwaling (the floorboards). These were laid athwartships rather than longitudinally, according to the specifications for a different ceremonial barge of this period (ZAZ7154). Gerhard: the planking is 1/64" thick, or a scale ¾".
  12. druxey
    Well, the fun really begins.... Good stuff, Alan; you are getting your feet wet. Keep those chisels sharp!
  13. druxey
    Well, you are learning a lot in a short time, Louie! It's good to think out your strategies several steps ahead....
  14. druxey
    That's an elegant solution, Gerald! Very effective.
  15. druxey
    Sorry about delay in responding. I'm away right now. Small joints don't really need clamping: gentle finger pressure works for me.
  16. druxey
    Check the planking tutorials on this site.
  17. druxey
    Very professional work, Kees!
  18. druxey
    Just catching up with your progress. Making that rail in sections makes good sense. Nice work!
  19. druxey
    Looking good!
  20. druxey
    All those little holes? That must have been very frustrating. Nice work, though.
  21. druxey
    Nice progress and very clean looking work, Fam.
  22. druxey
    Certainly refining one joint at a time is a good strategy. Also gluing one joint at a time is. Multiple joints and you'll be chasing things around and almost guarantee failure. I personally don't use a jig, but rely on the two pieces I'm joining to line up perfectly on a copy of the assembly underneath. Also, watch out for creep and cumulative error as you build up a multi-part assembly. Adjust as necessary on - pardon the pun - the fly. Also, for model work, I've found power tools a snare and delusion. They always remove just a bit more than you want. But you know that already, right?
  23. druxey
    Starting over rather than trying to correct is a bold choice, but a good one. I hope this version goes well for you, Michael.
  24. druxey
    The discharge holes are usually circular, not square.
  25. druxey
    Endless: some contemporary models and plans do show the discharge tube exiting the counter. Looking great, Chuck!

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