druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Henry: A quarter turn twist will do it, if you've seized the strop and block. (If it is reluctant, wetting the seizing will tame the beast!) -
That is correct: an eye splice (or reasonable facsimile) at each end of the strop. The strop is passed around the block and seized in. Then the legs of the strop pass around the spar and a lashing made between the eyes. The photograph shows a fore yard in the process of fitting out. Although you can't see the lashed strops, you can see that the blocks are correctly oriented, even before adjusting. Tedious work? Yes, but it gives a good result.
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18' Cutter by Maury S - Scale 1:48 - SMALL
druxey replied to Maury S's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
The plug rim is the top of the wash strake. It can confuse! There are eight strakes for the hull itself. -
A knot won't do what you want. You have to do it the way it was actually done. The block is stropped and then lashed to the yard. That way it will orient correctly. Check any standard book on rigging to see this.
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Had you considered very fine chain link from a jewelry supply house?
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Workshop Set Up Question
druxey replied to ChrisLBren's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Please, if you are extracting solvent vapour, you MUST have a sparkless fan motor! -
You'll never go back to basswood now! Enjoy working with quality wood.
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Mark: sorry that I'm late in on this conversation. Read the three tutorials on lining out and spiling on this site before you go too far. Under 'Building, framing, planking and plating...."
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Workshop Set Up Question
druxey replied to ChrisLBren's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
In the Chicago area, you will need to frame, insulate, vapour barrier and drywall the perimeter for sure. You are probably right in calling in a qualified contractor to do all this properly. I have a laminate floor over a cushioned insulating barrier on concrete and this has worked well for me. I do some sawing, etc. in the basement: a shop vac and suitable hook-ups to machine tools are necessary (see Lee Valley). In addition I have a ceiling mounted fine dust filtration system. No complaints from my Admiral. -
I have no idea, Alex, but suspect from its appearance that it is less than 50 years old.
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Alex: although the Royal George model in your link is beautifully crafted, it is a modern interpretation. Apart from the nibbed plank ends, the butts on two adjacent stakes would never be placed on adjacent beams. This would be a weak construction technique. When researching "How was it really done?", always study the remaining historical records. Modern interpretations, however well made, can be very misleading. Of course, if accuracy is not an issue for you, ignore what I've written!
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Good stuff, Alex! I'll be over with a suitably sized joint of meat soon.
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Terrific! When is the first barbecue?
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Your metalwork is beautifully executed, Alex. Will the stove have a chain-driven spit as well?
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ROYAL CAROLINE 1749 by Doris - 1:40 - CARD
druxey replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Welcome back, Doris, and congratulations on a stunning model! I'm sure many of us were wondering what and how you were doing. I hope your new work is satisfying and will allow you time to continue to create more outstanding models. Dobri!- 881 replies
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Sorry, Robin: it is the lights that can be hinged up and aft for ventilation. The sections of the bulkhead would be struck for cable handling in this case. I apologize for any confusion.
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If it's 18th century you are after, the book suggested above is The Fully Framed Model, Volume IV, published by SeWatchBooks. That gives you all the detail you'll ever want for the period 1760 to about 1785.
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For cable handling, the bulkhead panels would be hinged up under the forecastle against the beams, Robin.
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Fiebing's Leather Dye
druxey replied to JohnB40's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Good advice, Pete, and very nice chairs! -
Funny how doing things for a second time always seems to go faster. You did save this now, didn't you?
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Today I made a Light (box) Stand
druxey replied to AON's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Nicely done. I feel my own method much inferior now; I simply hold the pieces up to the window (daytime) or task light (night)! -
Nice looking bulkhead, Toni, although I was puzzled that you applied a comedian to both sides of the basswood. Perhaps you meant to type 'Castello'?
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Well done, Bob.
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I would think that deadlights that swing up would be more likely. The more elaborate hidden sliding versions would be for Admiral's quarters on a first rate!
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endeavour shrouds & ratlines (moved by admin)
druxey replied to geoff's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Interesting question. Steel (1794) states that the ratlines only go across every 6th lower shroud. However, contemporary models show all the ratlines going all the way across.
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