druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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I once believed that the trucks (wheels) were built up and bolted, but now think that this is a modern recreation and does not reflect contemporary practice. Also, there is confusion concerning iron-rimmed trucks. These were used only on land-based carriages, never at sea. -
Do you have access to Caruana'a books?
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Bob offers you the best advice if you intend to buy a small table saw.
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Welcome aboard, indeed!
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Bienvenue ici, Pierre!
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LBI? PNW? Could you translate for us forriners, please!
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Technical drawings & Dutch shell first
druxey replied to Jules van Beek's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Jules: this is all very interesting, and to some, controversial. Have you submitted this thesis for publication in either the Netherlands or the U.K? -
Hello from Switzerland! Mystery model identification
druxey replied to Nix's topic in New member Introductions
If a votive model, on would usually find hooks or rings for suspending it from in a church. Allan's assessment is, I think, correct. However, it is more charmingly done than most of the examples of decorative models that we see on this site. -
Presumably for emergency use only if the wheel were disabled.
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The deck 'droop' at the bow was called - wait for it - camber. (Deck beams and decks 'round up'; decks do not camber across.) The usual reason for this forward droop was so that the cables came aboard above the deck without the hawesholes being placed to interfere with either headwork or a wale. In this case it would help control recoil.
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Mike: if you are using PVA or similar for thinner pieces, wet the back of the piece first to eliminate curling. This will even out the moisture that causes the curl.
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Good to read that the shipyard is back in business. Check the wet dock gates on the next spring tide!
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Taken in context, one can usually figure out the odd error.
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Terrific miniature metalwork on the chains and rhodings!
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Well overcome, Sal. See my PM to you.
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Excellent advice from Allan. If you can afford it, the Byrnes unit is the way to go.
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Well done on crossing the finishing line! That looks very nicely done indeed.
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- Harriet Lane
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Ideally acid-free rag paper would be the best option for frieze work. On old museum models you can see the 'laid' paper lines through the paint. Now, this may sound heretical, but I use regular 20lb paper. It is stretched like watercolor paper prior to painting using acrylics. As the front of the paper is sealed by paint and the back adhered with PVA, it is sealed from the atmosphere and is not likely to deteriorate. However, I'l let you know in 200 years.
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Welcome aboard, Dave. I have happy memories as a student, spending weekends in Suffolk. Ah, those were the days....
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I'm sorry to read that the model is too large to continue. The work you have done is first class, Karl.
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Coming along really nicely, Sal.
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So sorry to read of your calamity, Alan. I hope that you did not lose many things.
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Those waterway pieces are seriously impressive! Well done. Mark.
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