druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Just spotted Henry's work. Brilliant stuff!
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I think Bob said and covered it all! -
Insguss? That would be an inlet.
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They should be compatible. However, the drying (polymerization) time may be quite lengthy. Try on scrap first!
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You are doing a great job on this challenging build, Steve.
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Coming along nicely, Alan!
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Welcome aboard!
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HMS VICTORY 1765 by albert - 1/48
druxey replied to albert's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Nice to see you back again, Albert! -
Cheerful build on hold....drop plank phobia
druxey replied to bigcreekdad's topic in Wood ship model kits
Make card patterns for fit first - saves both wood and frustration! -
Nice progress, Tobias. That internal work is not easy to do. Well done!
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Take the time to read and study instructions and pics until you understand what is needed - it's time well spent.
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Nicely restored, Matthias. Those mast hoops look so much better! The crew are pretty good-looking as well....
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- whaleboat
- restoration
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Some water is required when dissolving animal glue flakes. As Aleksandr found out, 'shelf' life of this type of glue is very limited! When warmed (using a water bath), its viscosity thins, but the glue thickens again as it cools. I've never used chalk in the mix, so don't know how it will change the properties of glue.
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Vertical Scarf Joints on Keels
druxey replied to tmj's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
In contemporary plans, often the vertical joint line nearer the viewer (starboard side) is a solid line and the other is a dashed (hidden) line. -
I'd be concerned about off-gassing from the copper compounds produced by that method. Even if sealed, I'd not trust it to be effective. Paints sponged on would be safer both to do and for the model's longevity, plus it would be less expensive.
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Of course, one doesn't need to use real marble. Faux painted marble is much lighter - and cheaper!
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Pre-scan days were always a greater or lesser degree of 'best guess'. I know that you are not slagging those who went before you - they did what they could (for the most part). We are fortunate to live in a time of 3D scanning. I was fortunate enough to have access to an historic prototype's scans. This resulted in two of us recovering the 'shipwright's secrets' from the late 1600's. I'm sure that there are many other discoveries on hull design waiting to be made as well. And you are finding some!
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Wilkommen, Dieter! You'll find lots of inspiration and help here.
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If you can remember the exact glue that you used, we may be able to help you select the best way to unglue any pieces.
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It's hard to see how crooked the hull is. Can you take a photo 'end on' so we can judge? Also, what glue did you use?
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A fascinating and ambitious project, Richard! Your comments on the inaccuracy of previous existing plans are interesting. We make assumptions....
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Well, Kevin, you are coming along nicely! I don't know what wood specie you are using, but the grain looks a little coarse for fine detail. Have you tried coffee wood? (The piece you were kind enough to gift me will work better, I think.)
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Barber's Adagio for (excuse the pun) Strings would be good for while tying ratlines.... Very neatly done at 1:96, Sal.
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Yes, Bob, it was untarred Manila. Your photo (last one) shows the odd protruding fiber. Gloves were more for when running line rapidly : the frictional heat build up was very impressive!
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