druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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All lovely tools and toys, but I think we have topic drift. The original question (unless I've misunderstood) is making a miniature chamfer on things like bitts, etc. A fine file or sanding stick does the trick. Is all!
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What about this possibility? (A very rough version!)
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A spot of glue will keep the martingale stays in place! Coming along nicely, Sal.
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- Harriet Lane
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Fine job on those gains!
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I'm fascinated by the replication of all the imperfections and joints on your carving! I've never seen this done elsewhere.
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Greg and I use Fiebing's medium brown dye for the blocks.
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To my eye the gallery still looks a little compressed. If you expand it a little more, then the last gun port of the middle deck will fall directly under the last port on the quarter deck as it seems it should.
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taper the top timbers/ribs of the plattforms!??
druxey replied to Theodosius's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Kits are simplified, but you can modify things to make them more like the 'real thing' as little or as much as you wish. Allan has shown you how it was done in the mid to late 18th century on British ships. -
That is ridiculous! There can't be so many models being rigged simultaneously! It must be hoarders trying to corner the market....
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Planking Bow
druxey replied to Loracs's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Planking is both a science and an art. The 'scientific' part is mathematical: dividing the vertical distance to be covered in an appropriate number of strakes. The art is to adjust the run of these until they look right to the eye from all angles. Sometimes the adjustment needed is very small, in other hulls there needs to be larger tweaks. There is no one way of doing this. However, the strakes should appear to taper or widen evenly. -
There is another thing to consider: The list of guns carried was a theoretical one (at least in British ships). What was actually on board at any time was often different and usually a smaller number! This might also be true of L'ambitieux and Fulminant. So, before you provide a Procrustean solution....
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You need a pharmacist's pill-counting machine!
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Part of the problem of ships' draughts is that the people that drew them were not artists. Usually the carved work (if shown) was rather crudely drawn. Even Boudriot (who was an excellent draughtsman) was not a particularly talented artist.
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Well, that was a good analysis, Alexandr. I'd vote for 'B'.
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6-pounder, Royal Navy cannon barrel - George III era
druxey replied to Gabek's topic in 3D-Printing and Laser-Cutting.
From guns I've seen, the touchhole is not more than ½" in diameter - perhaps 3/8" or even less. -
Was the original the work of more than one carver, showing different styles? You are doing a lovely job of re-creating the Vasa lion.
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Chuck: This was the correct terminology in the 18th century. The meaning of words changed over time. Camber only applied to a deliberate droop of a deck at the bow, otherwise the longitudinal curve, concave up, is sheer, as you wrote. Hope this clarifies things!
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HMS SUSSEX by KarenM - FINISHED - 1:48
druxey replied to KarenM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
An impressive model indeed! Congratulations, Karen. -
Skid beams. There were fore and aft holes through the 'U' portion of the iron supports with a retaining pin on each end of the beam.
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Those look very neatly done. Just repeat after me; "I'm glad this isn't a 74 gun ship." There, isn't that better?
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So, in the last example, the upper quarter light is a dummy and the lower one partially so!
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As you may recall, the slightest contaminant, such as skin oil, will make a silver solder joint fail. There is more concern with making a joint 'stick' than fail! Even the slightest trace of oil or grease on the mandrel for your hoop should work.
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