BLACK VIKING

Rigging was adjusted and tape was used to apply tension to the lines.  With the lines secured in this way, a drop of CA glue was used to hold each line in place, and the excess material was cut off.

Rope bundles were added at various points where lines were secured.

Put a flag on her and she's done.

Some shots of the completed model.

Beautiful ship. I’ll check your log and hope to learn!
 
Alex

Thanks, Ken. It's fun working with an armor model as they are not as sensitive to painting errors as are automobiles, aircraft, and ships.
None of the parts of this model are assigned a part number. All you can do is follow the crude pictorial "instruction" sheet, that's really more of a suggestion sheet as the correct part locations are very loosely shown. It helps tremendously to have lots of reference photos from other sources.
Here, I started the assembly of the upper hull and finished another set of tracks before I ran out of gas for the day. It was a good rainy day for modeling, tomorrow will try to finish up the upper hull and start getting some paint on it.
 
  

Today ending work...

Blockading Brest during the Napoleonic Wars. A Brig brings in a captured French Lugger.
W/C  14” 10”

Hello All, 
Just a quick update, I have sanded back the nameplate and I am very happy with how it turned out.
         
          
It was test fitted into it's mount
            
Then the mount was glued to the base and when it was dry everything was dry fitted together.
              
                
It is now ready for a few coats of clear varnish. The first coat was applied a few minutes ago.
Thanks for looking and the likes.
Comments always welcome.
 

@Ondras71
Thank you for your nice comment.
 
Today only a short update. 
The starboard side is so far equipped with the ratlines.

Indeed, your boat looks very nice! Yep, your description of model boat building seems accurate enough.
Welcome to MSW!

Despite any errors you've made, that is a fine model for your first attempt! Don't beat yourself up.
 
There are some great kits out today that even exceed the quality of the one you bought. I really do hope you can share a new build log with us in future.
 
Oh.... and 

A late model Stuka will be different. I'd like to see it, too.

Your Stuka will be an interesting Build Denis.
 
OC.

now....now.....no more talk about filing it......it'll take more than missing locator tabs to make me want to shelve it     this is now a bash build    as a matter of fact......  the engine / firewall assembly is already on the fuselage.  I'll do something with the paint....I think it's too late to try stripping it.  I'd have posted a while ago,  but errands took me away.   I was going to order a 1:48 Memphis Belle yesterday......it was going for about $60.00,   but when I saw the postage,  I did an about face!   would have added another $30.00 to it!   I did order two other planes though.........a stuka ju87 G2,  and a Marcel Block Aero MB200 Bomber......the Stuka is by Fujimi,  so it ought to be interesting,  since I've never built one of their planes.
 
we just had a storm pass through here........there was even a threat of a tornado.   something you don't see up in these parts........quite a bit of rain and T&L.

....in continuing on.......there were more fit issues with the engine / firewall.........the cowl would not seat on the firewall.   it had to do with the cylinder heads and the curvature of the cowl......kept it away from the firewall.  so I had to trim the front edges of the cylinders that won't be seen to conform to the curvature.

I also added a brace to the bottom front of the cockpit frame.  it won't be seen,  and it will help strengthen it when I slide the assembly into the fuselage.  another cross bar was added to it as well.

when dry enough,  the cockpit assembly was slid into place.   the fuselage sides were spread out a little to aide with this.........it worked out reasonably well and fits tight in there.  the second cross bar can be seen.
   

with that being done,  the center wing assembly was cemented into place.
  
paint looks to be another problem.......I created.  the camo is supposed to be light green and Olive....I should have done the light green first,  and streaked the olive after.   the result is that the light green is hardly noticeable........I have to do something about it.  
 
I've made minimum progress with the Memphis and the second hull.......I have been preoccupied with a problem I've been having.   nothing serious........a problem with my left foot......saw the doc and we're in the beginning phase to find out what it is.  more soon  

This the backbone of the vessel at 1/16 scale. length about 57 cm. n
 
note the holes in the keel for ropes that would presumably be used to kedge the vessel to a small grapnel.

the keylock scarf joining the keel sections and the posts to the keel.

an S-scarf joining the timbers of the posts.. Grey resin was used as a filler in the joins and was still present in the excavated wreck.
 
Dick
 
 
 

And, it’s glued in.
It’s not perfect, but it’s not bad for a first try.

Thanks, OC!
 
Thank you everyone for all the likes!
 
The ship’s wheel is ready to install and the binnacle has its first coat of paint:

Hi all . I have cut out a few more bulkheads and the false keel . I must admit they take a lot longer than I thought but I'm not going anywhere so they will take as long as they take. As you can see from the pictures I have cut them way side the line so I can sand them down to the right level. Hopefully it's going to be a nice day tomorrow so I can cut some more. 
Cheers for following 
Martyn

Evening all,    more progress  on the cockpit  I started by painting the instrument panel  this  had the sight added  then  shaded/highlighted, after it was glued to the main assembly  the whole thing was pushed in place in the fuselage.
 
OC.

Instead of just posting my work in regular build order, I thought I'd post an idea of exactly what I've been doing, including working on stuff that's further ahead than the regular sequence. As this is for the manual, it doesn't allow me to sit idle and twiddle my thumbs as parts and paints dry. Instead, I go off on a tangent and work on other things. First up, I'll show you where I currently am with the hull.
 
One task I love doing is removing the bulkhead ears from above the deck. At this point, I feel like I'm actually getting somewhere with a build. These are just snapped off with a pair of pliers and the stubs sanded flush with the false deck. Before I can fit the deck, I spray some red oxide primer around the inside bow and stern areas, as these would be difficult to paint later. The standard laser-engraved limewood deck is then installed using Titebond and then clamped down around the edges to make sure it sits perfectly to the false deck.
 



 
 
Once the deck is down, the inner bulwarks are planked. All planks are first painted. Painting the lowest plank at least helps to stop paint splashing onto the deck. I was unlucky with my planking as the gaps I needed to fill meant that more or less all paint was stripped back down to the woodwork so I could apply some acrylic wood filler. This was then sanded smooth and the various holes in the ply bulwark drilled through to the inside for the various eyebolts etc. The red oxide paint is now reapplied after completing the exterior pear planks and sanding the whole hull exterior smooth.


 
 
The only wales I'll be visiting this year with lockdown are the ones I'll be gluing to the exterior of this hull. The top of the first per plank that was laid is now marked with a pencil to identify where the 3mm x 1mm pear strip will fit. This is two planks below the bottom of the newly cut gun ports. 

 
 
After fitting the 3mm wide plank to each side, a 4mm plank was then butt up directly below it. Masking tape was now applied to either side so I didn't damage the surrounding pear. Sandpaper is now used to smooth the exterior.

 
 
Things start to take further shape as the outer prow is fitted, along with the keel and stern keel post. Some of the supplied clamps are used to keep everything in alignment.

 
 
Whilst that was setting, I made the rudder. Although you'll see copper gudgeons and pintles on this, they are a leftover from the original Speedy kit I have. There Flirt kit will be supplied with these in brass as there's no copper plates on this kit. Cartridge paper is used for the iron bands at either side of the tiller arm location.

 
 
The original masking tape for the wales was removed, simply because I didn't want to risk any sanding dust being lodged in there. The outside edges of the wales were again carefully masked, followed by the rest of the model, and Plastikote black spray applied. There will be no black paint on the bow area as this is being left in bear pear, along with some new laser-engraved per parts. 

 
 
I did say I'd been working on some other stuff, and here it is. We have some grate frames, bitts, windlass, ladders, pumps, capstan and cannon. I still have a lot of work to do on the cutter yet, but as you can see, things are moving at a nice pace.










 
 More when I have it...

Thanx ! 😁
 
The final version of this part. On the left, will come the door of the village...In the meantime, some pictures :  😎
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some complementary pictures of the carpentry in progress...A stable barn before receiving its wooden covering...
 

 

 
 
... Which will be right here:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Due to some security firewall issue with this web site, I have lost an entire and comprehensive update on the MPC kit. Therefore, I will only post a few pictures and give some brief explanations (I hate to do things twice).
 
The MPC engine parts were de-chromed in a few minutes, using a warmed ultrasonic cleaner with Super Clean. Parts were assembled, primed and painted Tamiya flat aluminum. Sorry for being so brief, but everything was clearly documented with a galore of pictures in the lost post.
 
The engine was then inserted into the frame and glued in place: 


And finally, the rear shock were installed, locking the rear wheel holder in place: 

I have looked at quite a few pictures of HONDA CB750 of the early days. The engine has very few chrome parts and I have only kept that cover, with the original chrome plating.
I think that most of the time, it is aluminum highly polished: 

 
Now, I need to catch up with the Tamiya kit.....
 
Yves

Frames have been painted with Tamiya Black X-1: 

Yves

Moving along to the front fork. Tamiya fork presents some kind of suspension, whereas MPC is solid. The instructions: 

Working suspension for Tamiya, a lot more simplistic for MPC: 

Tamiya uses a nice brass tubes arrangement and two springs to offer about 5-6 mm of travelling: 

MPC did cast the fork with Chrome plating, which needs to be removed, as there is no chrome on the fork of a CB750: 

All the parts are soaked in that Super Clean degreaser suggested by CDW and Egilman, and after 6 hours, the parts are turned to their original black molding. Other parts only took a few minutes, after setting them in my warmed ultrasound cleaner..... Somehow, the plating on the fork sprue seems to be very thick.
 
Sizes and complexity comparison: 

Finally, forks have been glued, sanded, painted with Tamiya flat aluminum: 

To complete this part of the assembly, here is the Honda Manual page on the fork and a picture of a real Honda CB750 fork: 


You can see how the Tamiya rendering of that part is so exquisite.
 
Yves