BLACK VIKING

Hello all; this is my first wooden ship build ever, I have the Artesania Latina Harvey in 1:50, I am going to build it and call it the Ringle as a companion to my next build, which will be the same companies HMS Surprise in 1:48.
 
I have a couple of questions I would love to ask, firstly the "ships of Jack Aubrey" website lists the ringle as having 2 6 pound long guns and 8 12 pound carronades. The Harvey kit comes with 8 Cannons, no mention of the size but I believe I can pass 2 of them off as the 6 pounders.  I will get the Carronades aftermarket, and they should be about 3/4"" length or 20 mm to represent 12 pounders in 1/48 from what I can find.
Can anyone advise what position the 6 pound cannons would likely be placed at? I have skimmed the books again and don't find a reference to them, but would appreciate a knowledgeable opinion where a captain of that age would have placed them. Bow or stern chasers? Midships? Any help appreciated.
 
I have started by setting the bulkheads into the keel in order, most of them were lower than the upper keel line. I glued a shim of wood in the crotch of the bulkhead opening ( sorry for the inelegant description, hope my nautical volcabulary improves as I go along) and then sanded them so the bulkheads were flush sitting. Tried to ensure they were square using a clamp and two small squares with the ruling edge removed.
 
Found out then that the keel is not a smooth progression along the top of it, so some sanding will be needed.
 
Here are a couple of images of what I have so far. Would greatly appreciate knowing if I have done anything wrong to this point.
 
Is there a way to put the images in sequence with the text, or should I put the text and image as separate postings to keep them together?
 
Thanks once again and it is a joy to have found this community and resource.
 
Glen

Another photos
 

 

 

 

 

Started on the ports. Made a jig for cutting planks per book directions. Should be able to go faster now that I have the method down. I'll sand them flush later on.

Hi all
 
Just a little update.
 
I have fitted the cabin deck and planked the walkway on the outside.
I did not put the caulking lines on the inside planks.
I am a bit mad about this as I do like to see the caulking lines.
I don't know if they did caulking on the inside of the cabins in 1577 as I was not born then ( the wife said I was so I will not argue with her ).
 
I have dry fitted part 51 to see what it looks like, yes I know it is too far over to the right.
 
Will now sand and put a coat of satin varnish on the walkways as they have only got two coats of sanding sealer.
 
 
Denis.

Thanks dashicat, I'll remember your advice when I get to the rigging. As for the wire, I have already decided to re-rig the caronnade blocks with thread for exactly the reason you give. I'll repost it when it's done.
 
After much stalling and doubting, the first planks were cut, soaked and pinned into place. The decision for the amount of planks per band was a bit of an issue as 14 divided by 4 is sheer horror; I would either wind up with 3-3-3-5 (no good) or 4-4-4-2 (even worse) and since I didn't find any examples of 3 bands for a hull (always 4??) I decided to go with 3-4-3-4 because of the shape of the hull.
 

 
Some stealers in the stern will be required I guess..
 

 
Guess there's no turning back now

Hi
Time for an update
 Have not done any building on the ship, Took me long enough to make up my mind whether to serve the rope or not. The answer was yes of course must serve the ropes glad I came to the right decision.
I used polycarbonate as I had some lying around
 

 
Modified a wood working drill bit to cut the hole for the bearings which game from some old kid’s roller skates
 

 
The gears had to buy from local model shop the rest I had at home, the centre axle is an m8 brass bolt drilled with a 3mm drill, drilled and taped the up rights with m6 for counter sunk bolts.
 

 
It’s a bit basic need to fit a turning handle but done a few test runs and works well, but now I am thinking about fitting a small 12v motor variable speed with reverse.
 

 

 
All for now

Some more deck/belaying pin updates, also practicing some photography also. I don't know if this backing sheet is "too much" but I thought it gives it a new touch. May just use some solid backing sheets and do some more of these water ones at the end.
 

 

Hi everyone,
 
possible last post for a couple of weeks, because I will move to my own place in two weeks.
 
I have gotten to a point where I can let the beauty rest for a while. I am happy with the progress!
 
This is how she is now:
 

 

 

 

 

 
(mind that I still have to tidy up the ends of the tackles and stuff)
 
Thanks and see you in a couple of weeks!
 
grtz
Lukas

While checking the various lines on the gaff sail and their belaying points I decided to come back on that decision about the vangs.
Marquardt himself isn't that clear about the Fitting of vangs with a slung gaff. In the illustrated example of a slung gaff he has vangs installed. As the manual asks for them as well and I think the whole handling of the gaff would be easier I decided to install them.
 
 

vangs installed
 
To get an attachment point for the tack lashings of the gaff sail I moved the schooner stay's tackle to the port ringbolt and prepared two more ringbolts on outboard of the three positions abaft the fore mast.
 
gaff sail
Following the positive experience I made with Pegasus' sails I will make those of Pickle the same way:
- I use the finest cotton I can find. It is dyed a light brownish grey with a mixture of (very cheap) black and sage tea. Before cutting it, I brush the cutting lines with diluted glue to prevent unravelling of the edges.
- Clothes seams are drawn as double lines with a sharp pencil onto the fabric. They probably will fade a bit but I think the sail maker used manila thread with a colour nearly matching that of the fabric. The seams probably did show much less than usually depicted in those laboriously stitched sails.
- Doublings and reef bands are small stripes of the same fabric, glued on.
- The bolt rope is glued into the seam. To form cringles and earrings I lead the boltrope through small holes out and back into in the seam in a small arc. Again the boltrope is less prominent than in other examples but when using a manila rope the colour should again blend in with the sailcloth.
- The glue I use is a special textile glue which can be additionally fixed with a hot iron.
-The reef lines are put on the usual way. (Hurrah, I found something nearly as tedious as knitting ratlines!)
 
The making of that sail differs completely from the prototype, but I think the overall scaled down impression is as good as that of a stitched sail with its usually too coarse seams - and it's quite quickly and easily made.
 
The gaff sail is now ready to hoist with brails and tack lashing attached.
 
 

drawing of the sail with measurements taken from the model
 
 

seams drawn, sail cut out, and first part of boltrope threaded in
 
 

finished sail with brails attached
 
 

detail with cringle
 
 
 
 splicing and knotting
To secure all those blocks into rope ends and to secure lines around thimbles or ropes I use more and more a 'false splicing' according to a method I saw somewhere here in MSW. I pull the thread around the block or rope, thread it through itself with a needle, thread it back again a small distance farther out, adjust, fix all with a small drop of CA glue and trim the ends.
 
 

 
 
 

Thanks Carl and Steven. I have gone back and looked through my picture bank and found some good detail on the disposition of the grapnel. 
 
 
 

 

 
All of these illustrations seem to show the chain being led into the floor of the forecastle, not the hawse holes (I will change this)
 
The nice chain, Steven, was a leftover from a kit that I trashed. I waste nothing.
 
Certainly hooks are seen on later warship carrack yard ends but are not seen on these early carracks.
I remain to be convinced that the grapnels were designed for offensive use against other ships except in extreme emergency.
 
I believe I now have the answer. Grapnels were a common form of anchor for dhows and other vessels of the Indian ocean and were used to assist mooring in tidal estuaries or tidal flats at low tide. They were also used to help haul the dhow out to deep water at high tide.  (Clifford Hawkins: The Dhow, an illustrated history of the dhow and its world). the dhows suspended the grapnels from the bowsprit and sometimes used chain instead of cable.I believe that this would have been the practice in the tidal lagoons such as Venice where the large anchors could not have been used (as seen in the Barbari map of Venice)  Cheers
Dick

Colorful jig.
 
This is to make the handrails. Instructions say to place indicated pieces of wood over the drawings, glue and when dry lift off.
 

 

 
Hm... everything seems to be so easy in the instructions LOL.
 
Like...
...step # 29: Now plank the hull.
...step # 30........
 
 
I'll let you know how this goes. This looks like a very delicate job. I am building the hand rails now, but will see later when during the build will install them on the ship.
 
Best regards to all and thanks for watching.
 
Ulises
 
 

Time for the sprit topsail yard.  The kit plans have problems here - they show extra lines for the sprit topsail sheets, where as far as I can tell those never existed - the sprit yard lifts did double duty as sprit topsail sheets, and were attached to the bowsprit with ring bolts when the sprit topsail wasn't deployed.  
 
I attached the various blocks to the yard - brace pendants, clew blocks, and lift blocks - and then set up the tie and halliard.  Here you can see the tie from the front.  There are no parrels - it seems the ship had them, but the kit doesn't specify them so I'm going to wait until all the other yards are done to see if there are enough extra beads left over.
 

 
And the tie block from the back.
 

 
Here is the halliard assembly.  I found a couple of ways to do this.  Nothing of the original ship's sprit topmast or topsail yard survives, so there's no way to know how it was rigged.  The kit plans call for a block attached to a ring bolt on the top, and the halliard to run between the tie block and the top block, tied off at the bottom.  The tie block would have been a fiddle block, but you can use a double block.  The kit plans are too vague to see what to do in any detail.  Two other sources show early 17th century Dutch ships with the halliard tied to a ring bolt on the top, then run up through a single block on the tie, back down through the top to a leader block on the bowsprit, and from there to a cleat on the bowsprit.
 
I chose the second approach, mostly because I didn't want to face the complex block rigging on the top with all the deadeyes in the way.
 

 
Now the lifts and braces.  The braces head up to the forestay, then back down through leader blocks on the bowsprit before terminating at the pin rail on the side of the beakhead, next to the spritsail braces.
 

 
 

 
The clewlines are pulled up against the yard since there is no sail deployed and no sheet to attach them to.  They route down to leader blocks, then to the front pin rail on the beakhead, next to the spritsail clewlines.
 

 
A photo showing where some of the lines terminate.
 

 
And the final result.  It's different from the kit plans in a number of small ways, but conforms as best as I can make it to a combination of the 1:10 model, Clayton's model, and my rigging books.
 

Shipyard is back in action.
Started fitting the channels on the starboard side of the hull.
 
Back in Aug 2014:
I cut slots in the side rails for the channels to fit into.

 
I had to slide the mizzen channel forward towards the bow 4mm so the stays missed the cannon post.
Test fit, not fully glued in yet. Just the knees glued to the channels.
Some more work on them(holes for fittings) to go before fully gluing into their slot.

When fully glued in place should be nice and strong.
 

Also whilst fitting, I placed some clear tape on the hull to draw through/down the stay lines to locate the chain plate(angles) - drill bottom holes.
 
 
Dave R

COMPLETE & DONE
February 15, 2016
 
I'm finished and she is mounted on her display board.  Done, done, done.
 
I want to thank all of you who have offered encouragement and suggestions throughout this build.  You buoyed my spirits at some low periods (definitely a plus of belonging to this forum has been the support) and offered key ideas at others.  Nic Damuck of BlueJacket has my particular thanks for going above and beyond in answering parts questions for me.
 
I know I said that this was my last effort at scratch model ship building, but , , , if I could find a good plan set or even photographs of the interior of Shackleton's James Caird, I just might try again.

hi there Piet.......I'm glad you like it     stanchions.........you know I did think of that.   I went down to the local Home Depot and bought a roll of wire.......a bit late,  but I did.  don't know if the wire will fit in the Billing's stanchions......gotta check to see if I have any first.   If I don't,  I guess I'll be ordering some........need some for the syborn,  my trawler.   there's always the Christmas tree boat  
 
anyway,   I did a bit more refinement on the upper deck.   figured I'd better get a front bulwark up and done  
 

 
I even set up the stair well.   I didn't even give these post time to become loose.........on went the planking.
 

 
it didn't take long...........all that's left now,  is to build up one of the inner stairwell walls
 

 
I finally took care of that short crack line on the floor.
 

 
...and then the cutout for the stairwell.
 

 
flipping it over,  the opening was beefed up and the front cap was laid down across the underside......all this does is prevent it from sliding back and fourth on the structure.   the borders around the sides and this cap are the locator  'bracketing'.
 

 
at the moment,  the front wall is getting shingled up..........it's late though and I'm beginning to poop out

I spend the weekend in the shipyard doing some initial repairs, then some new work.  Because Augie hadn't been able to work on the Confederacy for quite some time, it had collected a little bit of dust and had a small amount of disrepair, including some deck planks that had separated a bit and seemed uneven. So I cleared off some of the cannons and fittings, resurfaced the deck, filled in gaps with sawdust from sanded down Swiss Pear,  then applied some tung oil and a light coat of satin poly.  I also ended up touching up some of the black and red paint that had been negatively affected by dust, etc.
 

 
    During the course of that - I noticed that the steering wheels that had come with the ship, well - just weren't that awesome.  After doing some searching for bits and pieces, it turns out it's actually pretty difficult to find good wheels that are not metal and painted.  So I set about creating new ones. 
 
Attempt #1
 

 
I cut off part of a dowel that was 15mm in diameter - the same diameter as the existing wheels.  I mounted it onto my Dremel vertically, using a small screw attachment to create a version of a lathe.  Then I used dental tools to notch and carve the piece giving it texture.
 

 
However, because the kind of wood I used was hard, but a little too porous and brittle, it crumbled when I attempted to cut it off the end of the dowel with it's new shape.
 

 
Drat.
 
Attempt #2
 
During the second attempt, I used a softer, but more dense piece of wood for the framing of the wheel.  This wood is actually from an old pen case that I had from somewhere.    You never know what you're going to dig up in the extra supply bin.
 

 
I cut it square, rounded the edges, then mounted it on the Dremel as before.  I smoothed out the top and bottom and used my mini level to make sure it was even.
 

 
I used miniature files to care out the edges and give the wheel some shape. 
 

 
For the spokes, I used a strip of boxwood, split it to 2mm, then rounded it with sand paper.  Once again mounting it into my Dremel Lathe, I used a miniature file to shape the spokes. 
 

 
I then mounted them around a center piece, and sanded my frame out to fit, notching the edges slightly to give room to the spokes.
 

 
For the outer handles, I used the same process, and notched the frame out to fit the pieces.
 

 
Finally, I lightly sanded and added a cherry mini-wax stain.  When it's dry, I'll sand it out with 1000 grit sand paper.
 
Now I just have to do another one!  heh

I first took a small drill bill and did the work by hand then used a larger bit to widen the hole.  This way keeping the angle of the rudder was easy. Lastly using the right needle file to widen the hole to more or less where it needs to be 

Hi all
 
Just a small update.
 
Decks are fitted and steps to gun deck.
 
Denis.

so I thought I would make a silly little gun to check the gunports
 

sorry I didn't get to post all the pictures..........walking dead was due to come on.   for those who watch it.......it was a treat, wasn't it?!?!?!? Holy cow!!!  
 
when the admiral finally saw what the improved roof was for,  she was quite relieved.   she thought it was to be attached to the stern in some weird way,  elongating the boat.   I was indecisive concerning stairways........1 or 2.......but I think 1 will be sufficient.  it won't be an ordinary flight of stairs....just something I want to try.   the posts were little buggers......I even used CA........but every time I went to plank,  1 or 2 would come loose.  fix 'em....let'em set.....then try again.   once the ground work {the first row of planking}  was done,  the rest was easy.  in regards to that short 1 inch section of bulwark in the front, well,  I should have waited......or at least left provision for butt joints there.........but no matter,  I can work it into the deck.
 
thanks Piet.......there's more to the evolvement...... I'm sure you'll like that as well  
 
that would be cool George.......best I can do at this time though is a couple of 50 cals.......will that do ?  remember,  it's deer season      Bubba gotta eat........right!?!?!?!
 
I love war movies.......I have the original  'Hamburger Hill' {it's not the movie the clip comes from}      I also have  'Good Morning Vietnam'   not sure where you were going with it,  but I thank you none the less  
 
thanks for all the likes as well  
 
so........I think the minds have been made up.  whether it becomes a heli-pad,  or a rooftop cafe'.........I think the flat roof is the better idea.    the boat is no longer out of proportions,  and the build ebbs back to a more nautical theme.   the comparison is as follows........those for the pitched roof....
 

 
....or is the flat bulwarked roof better.......
 

 
I took a few other shots of the new roof......    the tops of the bulwarks have all been sanded flush to the posts,  and the sides have been sanded as well.   I even did inside between the posts,  to knock down the juts and edges from the planking.  I should do more 'cuz the planking  'lines' can still be felt in places....I may not fuss to heavily on it though...after all,  it is a family owned charter fishing boat during the off season.
 

 
as you may recall,  the model does have a warp at the stern.......I did the 'ole college try to thwart it or at least hide most of it.   I think I did a reasonable job of it........the starboard side looks to be the most visible.   you'll see it when I do the starboard side windows.
 

 

 
I hope to get more done today  

Keep teasing me Dirk, keep teasing me ;-)
 
And now we come to the topics, that the dafi most enjoys!
  If someone gets pissed by this sh*tty topic - no worry, that is life ;-)   First the press gang was send out.     Then I realised, that a quarter drop of superglue can replace some tweezers ...     ... and as usual, there was some serious cutting, bending and reassembling of limbs and wings ...     ... and out came some characters that were a highest delight to create - including some bare bums :-)   And here the gents are already doing their business, tight fit starboard ...     ... everybody just one hole, the stressed faces are easing off ...     ... as everybody eases off, at port a space is free ...     ... but the gent in the red head already comes rushing in with urgent business ...      ... while those sailors in  the corners ...     ... can ease off in peace and quiet ...     ... while the double stools in the front ...     ... are more cosy :-)     The inside of the starboard roundhouse was for the lower officers that could follow the rush outside by the small window ...     ... while as far as I know the one on port was also used by the sickbay.     So that is the way that they are busily sailing towards victory ...     ... but still have to check if the loo paper was used that way hanging into the water to give it always an appearance of clean fresh spring  ;-)     XXXDan

I've been busy over the last couple of weeks. Fairing up the ship and installing "dummy" blocks for the canon barrels that are on decks that do not get built. Also I have had to add extra filler blocks at the bow to help with the planking. None of this was unexpected as I've done it on all my past ships but it does make for a lot of work. I also went ahead and planked the upper gun deck first. Getting it installed helped with aligning the lower gun decks canon blocks as well as helping to square up all the ribs. I also figured it would be easier to plank before the hull closes it in.
 
On the stern, I have been in a debate on what it looks like. I have seen two different images of it repeatedly. One shows it completely flat from the keel up with only the balcony extending over the rudder and the other, which is also the way the instructions with this kit shows, as having the cabins jut out over the rudder and the balcony come out further still. I think I am going to build it the second way mostly because I think I like the way it looks better and that is the way my stern is shaping up. However, if anyone knows the correct design please let me know and I will be glad to make the necessary changes.
 
With regards to the planking. I intend to make this a double planked hull mostly because I know my planking skills are not where I would like them to be for a single planking. Also, since the second plank layer is really just a veneer, I like having the 1st layer to help support the second. One day I hope to become good enough to only plank the hull once but until then this is good practice.
 
So without further ado, here are some pictures to show how the build is going.
 

Mike,
Thanks for the link to the green stain I will have to look into getting some. I think the white may just have to be paint with a little thinning to reduce the build up.
 
Here is a sequence on making the individual plates. I believe in the KISS principle in building processes so you will see a simple but effective fixturing to get three plates at a time. I started using a 4" steel block for these reasons; it is movable, provides finger clearance from the work table, allows a hard surface for the wheels to work against resulting in consistent crisp rivet indentations; and allows firm grip of 6" rule as the guides for the wheels to run against.
 

 
One thing to keep in mind that the copper foil tape may have one crimped edge for the production process and this edge should be positioned along the bottom edge and will be covered by the over lapping plate.

 
This shows how the steel block is taped with both wide blue and regular 1/4" tapes. Make sure the top blue tape is aligned to the top edge of the block so a square can be used to mark the vertical reference lines. Then both the verticals and the top edge marks are added with the small wheel.
 
 
Then the square can be turned to add reference dots for the center area lines. Locate the center dot first and then the additional two spacing them evenly. I did all by eye.

 
Now align the edge of the 6" thin rule to the top dot and parallel to the row of small dots and using the larger wheel add the three rows aligning each to the previous row and to it's reference dot. Take care not to press the wheel too hard and move the tape out of position. Practice a couple to get the feel of both wheels. Also check the wheel head for wheel wobble side to side. If needed carefully tap the center pivot rivet with a small hammer and sneak up on the tightening, don't hit too hard or you can lock up the wheel. I had to do this with the large wheel.

 
This is what the tape should look like with all rows in place.

 
Now with sharp scissors and working under a desk light to highlight the dots cut the plates apart. Note keep the small dot top row up and cut just right of the small dot vertical line.

 
Here are the plates cut apart. Note save the longer left end for keel and bow work.

 
Here they are in place brick work style. I use the #11 Xacto blade to separate the tape backing from the foil with the foil face down with backing up along the edge of the steel block (this will require a little getting use to to do) I hold the foil flat on the tape with the blade and slowly remove the backing. The foil on the end of the blade can carefully be straightened out and I position the lower right corner on the existing plate on the hull and align the edges parallel with the ones above and press into position with my finger from right to left. If re-positioning is needed now is the time to do it; otherwise I firmly press the plate in place using the edge of my thumb nail or finger whichever works best based on location. Once in place repeat for all adding from stern to bow and down from the keel to waterline.

 
Now back to more plating. 
 
 
 
 

Man, this masking business is hard work!
 

 
But the results is very satisfactory, a bit of a touch up here and there, but i'm happy with it.
 

 
 

HI ALL
TIME FOR A VERY QUICK UPDATE.
ALL FRAMES ARE NOW MADE!!!!
SHOULD SEE SOMETHING THAT LOOKS LIKE A SHIP EMERGE IN THE NEXT FEW WEEKS.
PHOTOS ENCLOSED.
CHEERS.....MICK