BLACK VIKING

A fascinating discussion, if I might ask a minor detail with regard smaller vessels like Cutters; I'm currently making the Trial by Vanguard models.  Would these smaller vessels have fixed bulwark or waterway garlands?  The RMG plans and a contemporary model do not show them.  I understand absence does not mean they were not used, but was it more likely that temporary deck placed garlands were used? and placed beside the guns as discussed already on this thread.  For info. Trial had 8# 3 pounder Carriage guns and 4# 12 pounder Carronades from 1793, if that has any bearing.  Thanks for any opinions, I'm tempted to add more detail than the kit provides, but inclined to add triangular/square deck garlands if this was more likely than fixed ones.

Your house must be massive for you to have something like that lying around somewhere and forgetting that you had it  I have a typical Melbourne home ... expensive and small. I would definitely notice something like that in my house! 

As promised here is the hull at 1/40 for size reference,  I carved this one on CNC a while ago, I forgot I had it.

In regards to Anigre as a wood for teak decking, I have posted this somewhere else but since it is what I am doing for his I will post the image here to.
I know my woods and have been a furniture builder most of my life and still build guitars.
Anigre is not a high ranked wood but it is fine grained and nice to use, it does have an unpleasent smell..it smells like **** frankly.. but it goes quickly and becomes musty in smell, it cuts well and sands really nicely, it is fine grain with no large pores, about the same as Cherry.
The issue is availability, if you can get it get as much as you can afford because it may not be around much longer due to bans on logging.
I did some searching for it in the US and it seems easier to get for you.
It is also readily available as veneer, be careful of this as its normally fiddleback with waves in it, its beautiful wood but no good on a deck.
Here it is in veneer form on a cabinet I made 20 years ago note the figure which you don't want
as you can see the colours match pretty well, the greyer stuff is good for older teak, for scale those planks are about 6 inches wide, the front one 4

Note the fiddleback figure in the venner! you don't want this if you buy Anigre veneer.
By the way this was toned to this colour, it's not the natural colour.

The Airfix Golden Hind 1/72 kit is a 50 years old vintage kit. I bought this kit to practice rigging Galleons. 
 
https://www.hismodel.com/golden-hind-6
This is my reference for rigging practice. I know the rigging plans aren't equal to my kit, so I'm fixing some parts of the plan.

I did basic paintings only. The Golden Hind has no reference, so we don't know exactly what color it was.
 
Skipping hull building is an advantage of the plastic kit.  
 



 
The painting is done. I added belaying pin racks.

I made belaying pins using brass rods and high viscosity (sticky) CA glue.
 

Also, I designed 15 species 310 blocks for Golden Hind.
 

Laser cut
 

And assembly. 😭
 

I'm still modifing many parts. It is not easy to get started on rigging ASAP as I planned... I hope companies like Eduard make detail up parts for specific plastic kits.

Desk globe, map and some bottles. Skull candle holder. Everything here is SLA 3D printed
 

 

I've done a custom mix for metallic gray. Will be doing my stripes in black. Heavy on the clear coats and polish to follow.
 
 

Bow Work Completed
Returned to the workshop this morning after a couple of days aways looking after our 3 year old granddaughter as her parents become proud parents to a baby boy (our 5th grandkid).
 
I have managed to complete adding the various rails, ekeing, knees, ledges, seats of comfort and timberheads around the bow area.

The cathead knee

As the next photo shows there is some touching up required.

I remembered to add the polybak decorative pattern, as can be seen in the next photo, to the stem post.

Seats of comfort

Hi all,
 
There hasnt been any updates for long time .
 
Some Clients have asked if im closing down the shop - not at all.
I had issue where drumsander broke down and i was basically closed for few weeks. Luckily i learned thing or two about fixing drumsanders.....
 
Regarding stock.
I have plenty of Castello boxwood, Alaskan yellow cedar, black hornbeam and Swiss pear (different shades).
Limited quantity of American holly, white hornbeam.
 
Regarding Swiss pear.
As have gotten reasonable amount of very very light Swiss pear.
So at the moment there are 3 shades available:
1) Dark (Swiss pear - elsbree steamed)
2) Light/pink (true pear steamed)
3) Very light (Swiss pear - elsbree steamed)
Photos below give better overview of the shades.
 
Note that if you are building a bigger project where orders are divided into longer period of time then please let me know.
Then i will keep named sample of the color i have sent You with the first package and do my best to follow that in future orders.
 
As always all requests can be sent as PM here or hobbymill.eu@gmail.com
 
Br
Vahur
Hobbymill.EU

 

Cowling is finished and the intake at the bottom (oil cooler intake, maybe?) and exhaust pipes have been added. A certain amount of guesswork went into the latter two constructions, as there were no close-up diagrams for either of them, and the instructions for this kit are ludicrously terse.
 

 

Well, I got a wheel (singular) shaped. Each main gear wheel consists of four laminated disks. After gluing one up, I drill a hole through the center and use my Dremel tool to sand it to approximately the correct shape. After soaking it in some thin CA, I lightly sand it smooth. Here's a before-and-after:
 

 
Don't worry -- the gaping holes get covered by paper hubs.

Thanks again for stopping by,
 
Frank
 

Finished the cannon hatch covers all around. Repeated the 4-6-4 layout on the starboard side as I did on the port side. Opened the four hatches on the stern. Making all the little metal eyebolts for all the hatches, and lashing the pair of lanyards for each cover (opened and closed), was right up there with tying ratlines. 😊.  Also added the fleur-de-leis to each of the open hatch covers. 
 
Doing a little kit inventory. I know I still have the lanterns to add later. I would surly break them off if I added them now. From what I can tell I think I am primarily going to be working on the yards, sails, and rigging from now on. 

She;s looking really good! 
hamilton

Hi... I throw my hands up with the parts that come with this kit... the head rail by my first fit is about 5mm shorter than required and the knee of the head is twisted.
 
I know the bowsprit angle should be 32 or 36 degrees to the keel for 1719.
 
So I need the head rail to go from the cathead to the head then some middle tails . Looks like another print job...
 
 

good evening everyone
 
build log 240-14 main mast shrouds and ratlines
 
very little progress being made, but today the starboard main lower rats were completed,
 however the puppy is coming on well in his 3rd week with us, and will be 12 weeks old this Sunday
 
 

The fuzz on scale rope should also be to scale. If the fibers on 1:1 rope are 0.001 inch (0.025 mm) -  5 times the diameter of a human hair - the scale fuzz would be 0.00002 inch (0.0005 mm) at 1:48 scale. You would need a microscope to see them.
 
From a normal viewing distance the ropes on a scale model would have no visible fuzz.

Hello Marc,
I found your build randomly and i'm delighted what I see. Another colourful ship!
Today I was in in Lüneburg and I saw these portals who reminded me to your model.
 
The Rath's Pharmacy from 1598, and there is still a Pharmacy in it


And the House of a council family … Built in 1568 with a Renaissance portal. 

These days, this is what progress looks like for me:


I added the filling pieces for the middle band of wales, so that I can properly mount the chain preventer plates.
 
My J-O-B has transitioned to full-employment, lately, and I have completely lost the pockets of daytime to get small-work done.  The evenings are mostly consumed with coaching sports teams, and emailing families about said sports teams, and generally being a husband and dad.  All good, just BUSY.
 
I don’t have a lot of modeling mojo left in me, to do good work, so I have mostly been reading.  About rigging and other things ship-related.
 
R.C. Anderson really is the foundational read for this epoch.  As I go through it, I have been re-reading the rigging sequence of several of my favorite builds.  The first is Paul Kattner’s intense kit-bash of the DeAgostini Vasa; as a first-time builder, his approach and technical mastery are just incredible.  His log is extremely well-photographed throughout. Along the same lines is Michael’s (‘72 Nova) Airfix Vasa, which is just exquisitely well-done in an impossibly small scale. The third is Marsalv’s Le Gros Ventre, which is just a model that I love, through-and-through, and the rigging is truly excellent.  Very honorable mention goes to Daniel’s Victory, which like Michael’s build is excellent for the technical tricks of making rigging look truly professional.
 
These are peripheral time periods to my own, with their very specific contributions to the history of rigging, but the sequence of work in these builds is enormously helpful for understanding what is a very complicated process.
 
I am, of course, well acquainted with Archjofo, and all I can say there is - dare to dream.  A true Master Class.
 
Now that I have some rigging vocabulary and understanding of what most of the lines do, it has become much easier to conceive of where my belay points should be.  Just as with anything else, you can’t really build a rig until you can understand it and visualize it.  We are getting there, though.
 
As is my custom, I make frequent visits to The Strand, hunting for obscure, and out-of-print ship books.  Most of the time, I come up empty.  Occasionally, though, I find a gem!  On my most recent trip, there was a veritable treasure trove!
 
Winfield’s First Rate (have it)
Lee’s Masting and Rigging (have it)
An updated and comprehensively illustrated Pepy’s Navy (don’t have it, yet)
 
And, then, these two:

I will likely go back and poach the Pepy’s title on my next paycheck.  The two I did pick up are invaluable for both my current and future projects.
 
The Art of Ship Modeling has a very detailed accounting of the construction of Frolich’s L’Ambiteaux, and all of his subjects are beautifully photographed in hi-res.
 
Lavery’s edition of Dean’s Doctrine is also beautifully illustrated and the math of Dean’s approach is very clearly explained.  It isn’t a guidebook to reconstructing a French First-Rate of 1670, but it is useful for understanding the methods in vogue for that specific time period.  Again, you can’t build it until you understand it.
 
Lastly, John Ott clue’d me-in to the fact that an English only edition of Le Chevalier de Tourville was back in-print by Ancre for a very reasonable sum.  I bought that too!  From what I have gathered, here and there, the rigging and belay plans of this monograph are relatively easy to follow.  Thank you, John!
 
So, I just wanted to say “hello,” and thank you all for visiting.  More to follow!
 
Best,
 
Marc
 
 

I have faith in you getting around to some more demolition in due course 🤣
 
Gary

Elsewhere, people asked whether the net in front was not a hindrance and whether it would not make more sense underneath, as is the case today.

So I simply made some pictures that I don't want to withhold from yo 🙂

Here without the jib boom



And here with









You can see some things well.

- The wings of the bee give our little sailor a good foothold, which also explains the slanting position, which makes it easy to support oneself.
- The net is not particularly in the way, as you have to fish around the bowsprit cap in front of it anyway.
- The inner jib lands immediately in the net when it is brought down and does not lie over the spars. If it is stowed properly and successively when lowering, the standing area of our seamen also stays accessible.
- When the sail is stowed, the jib boom can still be moved.

What is also true, of course, is that this small net has evolved into the jib net we know today, where it has been reversed, because today you stand in the net and the sail rests on the boom. Even when stowing a medium-sized sail like the Hendrika, it takes a lot of strength to reach around and underneath the downhaul to fasten the sail. What was it like with the big sheets?

And the all-clear was also given elsewhere: In the literature, instead of the net, you always see two battens as a boundary at the top and bottom, connected with a zig-zag rope running lengthwise. Druxey gave me the hint that this was only a very short-term intermediate development stage that was very quickly replaced by the net. Thank you for that!

Sorry, so I don't have any more demolition for you today ....

XXXDAn

Afternoon all,    I managed  to  do a bit  more  today  -  I am  working on the  remaining  group  including my Two  British  cavalry,  I  added  light  brushing  of  flat coat  with  my trusty  Mig Ammo  Lucky  ultra matt,  when  new  it  brushes on fine,  they  still  have some  detail  painting  to  do.
 
OC.

The starboard side rigging is finished with the completion of the main sheet and brace, the sheet is pretty straight forward but there are few options regarding the brace and I chose to attach the leading block with an eye bolt to the topside of the bulwark.
 
Michael D.

Nice!

And done