BLACK VIKING

Thanks for all the likes! I'm wrapped.
 
I did the shrouds today. First I drilled the 1mm holes on the top of the desk as I didn't want to mess up the gun ports on the side. Five each side and back from the base of the foremast and main mast. Three each side and back from the mizzen mast. They are 2mm apart from each other.

 
Next I looked underneath and saw that a few holes missed their target . This is not an issue as I could simply gouge out the stray holes so I would not interfere with the flat surface. I do admit that it does look a bit like a dog's dinner but you won't see it later. ☺️

 
Finally, I  removed the standing line from the top of the mast to avoid 'line clutter', then by using a 0.7mm thick neddle and thread, I started underneath the front hole of the foremast. I didn't secure the end, just left a long enough end to be able to tie a knot later (about 60mm). I went up to the lower side hole in the mast and down to the corresponding hole on the other side. Underneath, I simply came up the adjacent hole on the same side, up, through and down through again. On the fore and main mast I has three shouds going to the lower hole and two going through the upper side hole. When I finished each mast I tied the start and end lines together, making sure the mast is sitting where you want it, and then glued the knot with super glue.
 
Two warnings. Use plenty of string  for each mast. I started with 700mm on the fore and main masts. Also be carefull of glue on your fingers as you are sure to strip off some paint on your ship.
 
I'm very pleased with the result. Sorry but I'm not mad enough to add ratlines to my shrouds. 🤪

 
I'm done for the day as we are celebrating my '21st' birthday this afternoon.
Cheers

Yard Manufacture
Over the last few days I have been shaping and then adding the various PE parts, cleats and footropes to all the remaining yards. The only task now remaining, before installation to the masts will be to paint the yards black. Please see the following set of photos.
 
Driver Gaff
This was an interesting dowel to shape. There are two flying lead blocks and a couple of blocks secured to the driver gaff via eyebolts,


Driver Boom
There was not a great deal of shaping required for the driver boom. The most time consuming task was to make the knotted footrope.

Mizzen Topgallant Yard
This was a nice simple yard to make with a central section which tapers down to each end. 

Mizzen Topsail Yard
I had a bit of a brain fart when adding the footrope stirrups and initially drilled the holes in the wrong place, as you will see in the attached photos where these holes have been filled. I will adjust the position of a couple of the footrope stirrups so they are vertically aligned.

Crossyard Jack
I had the same brain fart with regards to drilling to stirrup holes. I will also need adjust the position of a couple of the footrope stirrups so they are vertically aligned.

Main Topsail Yard

I did add thin planking trips to the central octagonal section.

Main Yard

 
I did add thin planking trips to the central octagonal section.

The kit 
Scale: 1/90
Width: 385mm
Height: 765mm
Length: 1085mm
Difficulty: Medium
Number of pieces: +6,600
 
First impressions were wow, there is a lot of kit for the money, in what is quite a heavy box. like a lot of Occre kits the package is similar to others in the range, a simple folded base keeps everything in place with a generic coloured lid with a pasted photo of the build, having said that one of the plastic cases had been damaged, allowing some of the contents to be loose, but everything was accounted for, this was not caused in transit as noting was around it to do that sort of damage

wood package
the wood stock provided has been cut well with no splintering, for me the veneer is the best i have seen in a kit, although its a long time since i purchased a kit with it contained
bulkheads are plywood,
 lime for first planking
sapelli veneer for the outer hull
sycamore decking
and a variety for the rest

it would be nice if some of the wood stock could be identified rather than bundled together
 
The rest of the wood package is lasered stock and the lines are very clean with very little scorching on either side
its nice to see the wooden boats enclosed rather than the metal ones
 
However no deck camber has been built into the kit, i think this applies to all Occre vessels. including the new release HMS Victory i will try and raise the centre line when it comes to building this, i just need to work out what else would need to be changed like hatch coamings, skylights 
 


 
 
 

I added all the pieces that the old model was missing compared to the actual aircraft.
 




Once the glue cures, I will seal the model and begin painting.
 
I wasn’t going to do a build log for this one, because I’m just taking an old model and essentially bashing it into a different aircraft.
 
But, there are many of you who are far more knowledgeable than I am about these aircraft.

I achieved some important progress today, marrying the engine and the frame. Luckily casting precision and design is very good and I had only a little wiggling to do, while join the numerous connection points of the engine bearing plates to the engine.
The frame itself needed some bending, to accept the engine, which I did before painting. The cast material is durable but easy to bend an very good to work with, luckily. 






 
Cheers Rob

Works are gradually being updated
Customized various bow puppets and reliefs
450449987@qq.com

Evening all,   right  I am calling this  guy  done,   still  more to do.
 
OC.

Just a  re cap  of what  units  I will  have displayed on my dio  - 
 
French  54th  and 55th   Ligne  Line Infantry.
French  1st and 4th   Cuirassier  Cavalry.
KGL   1st and 2nd  Light  Rifles.
KGL 5th  Line.
KGL 3rd  Hussars.
British Life Guards.
British  Royal Dragoon Guards.
British  Royal horse Guards  (The Blues).
Dutch  27 Jagers.
German  Hannoverian   Luneburg  Btn.
 
OC.

AAAU.  All Awesome As Usual.  You never disappoint, Michael!

I've completed one of the pendants, I tried to replicate how their rigged on the Royal George....I know a much later date, but I do love the detail and complexity of it, Overall, I'm happy with it, the rings could be a bit smaller, but geez their already 1.5mm so I'll just run with it. Thanks for stopping by.
 
Michael D.
 

 
 

Thank you for the nice comments.
 
The planking at the bow has been further sanded and fitted with treenails.

Back to the rear castle.
Smaller wales (4) are placed on the clinker planking. Of course, none of the four have the same dimensions.
The drawings and photos are partly used to determine the "right" location. The dimensions between the wales are also taken into account for future painting works.
According to Mary's remains, the Wales certainly continue as far as sector 10 (the penultimate cannon port)
 
"penultimate"  A new English word for me (hopefully Mr. Google translate is correct 😳)

After applying these wales I have to read my books and think first.
The "frames" of the rear castle are much too thick. And the clinker planking on the transom also feels wrong.
This means extra sanding and cutting, probably a redo and a   smiley.
 
Thanks for following
 

Exemplary miniature work as usual, Daniel! Looks like it was a great exhibition and meeting as well.

It was nice again and my little one with the black and yellow stripes really enjoyed the trip 🙂

As every 2 years there was a big meeting in Augsburg, around 70 modellers, some with their partners, met, chatted with each other, had a nice evening together and many even had a great Sunday breakfast together.

Here are a few pictures of my little one with her accessories.











I was also able to take part in and witness a Guinness of World Record attempt: Matthias registered his ship in a bottle as the largest free-hanging ship in a bottle. Now we're just waiting for the certification 🙂



Well then, a nice greeting from both of us, DAniel and Vicky

OK, I have just competed the hull designs for Harpy (1796), now onto masts. Here are a few pics of the (sacrificial) 'pre-prototype', again, used only to check fit of designed parts, so this has really been taken apart and put together a lot. (And is in fact the third of my builds for this)
 
Again, the only planking required will be at the level below the main wale down, with everything above this all pre cut/engraved, including the main wale (this is why they take so long to design)
 
Armament is absolutely typical of this vessel, 16 x 32-Pounder carronades and 2 x 6-Pounder long guns.
 
64th Scale, as I am sure someone will ask, and a hull length of around 545mm, with a lot of detail..
 
ETA - The hatch coamings sit on the deck beams and carlings, and not directly onto the deck, and the deck sits directly onto the deck beams, instead of ply sub deck and lime deck, for better scale appearance.

I haven't done much on the kit for the last month or so ,had a major depressive episode then coming up from that I got hit with covid,(Nearly 5 years and multiple family and extended family getting it and not a thing for me and my sons then boom😒
I've slowly got back to it ,I've finished the inner planking for the gundeck and adding the stanchions on the orlop supporting the gundeck! ,next is some medical hammocks and various stowage on the orlop then it's onto the gundeck.
 
Richard

After many months I have finally finished one my big ships despite being a wooden ship witch I always struggle with I think I have a decent result 

Added the pilot's headrest and windscreens. The kit provide neither interior frames nor glazing templates for the latter; I made photocopies and used those as templates.
 

A short but productive day working on the gunwals, paint, masts and yards.
 
I needed to build the gunwales on the sides of the main deck. I used 4.0x0.4mm basswood. A little Tamiya Putty (Basis Type) made the edges fit in nicely. I also needed to build up the forecastle with 1mm thick basswood to avoid lowering the gunwales to accommodate the cannons.

 
By using the ready made diagram measurements, the masts and yards were easy to cut. The masts have a 5mm overlap which consisted of a filed recess to give the glue a flat surface to attach to and also help line up the mast sections. The threaded and glued ties also add strength and provide authentic effect. You may notice the colour coding on the mast bottoms so I don't get them confused. The top half of the mast are stained and the bottom halves are awaiting yellow ochre paint (as pointed out in my research). I used cocktail skewers and toothpicks for the masts and yards.

 
Finally, the first coat of Vallejo Yellow Ochre (70.913) and Vallejo Copper (77.710) were applied. As it works out, the divide between the TOP and BOTTOM blocks is where the waterline is. NB: I still have NOT glued the two halves together.

 
Tomorrow I hope to locate the portholes and start on the deck items and colour. Have a good one!
Cheers,

Those spokes look pretty good against a dark background…

Afternoon all,   just a  couple of pics  to show  where  I have placed  the pelisse.
 
OC.

Nicely done Michael!!
 
I hope all is well.
Frank

Hi all,
 
It's been a while since I've had an update to post. Finally completed the installation of the guns to their four upper weather decks.  added quoins as well
Here are a few images. 
 
Thanks, as always, for dropping buy for a look - always so appreciated.
 
Cheers,
 

I wanted to design and print the forward radar mast but my printer died. A replacement ordered but need to wait for a week.
In the meantime I finished the forward section. Removed embossed anchor chains and install new. Added few manifolds, boxes. Also the two machine guns forward. Weathering with light gray, decals and light weathering with darker gray. I finally installed the gun.

I’m not a smart man, I can only go to 4 

Eighteen cowl blisters done. 😵