BLACK VIKING

I have the fore top mast stay completed, I used 3mm and 2.5mm blocks for this, currently working on the spritsail topmast back stay, I failed miserably on my first attempt by piercing a needle through the stay, it took multiple tries to get the spacing to look right which I expected but trying to keep the alignment/angle of the needle as it passes through the stay on a consistent basis proved to be too much of a battle resulting in twisting and thus fouling the crows feet for the fore topmast stay. Plan B I just created a loops around the stay with a simple overhand knots, fed the crows feet through and tightened the knots then adjusted accordingly , once satisfied I put a spot of glue, overall I'm pleased with result with the stay having a slight even upward curve.
 
Michael D.

t's been a while, things have been.. Well, they could have been better. On the build side, I obviously massively underestimated the rethink needed to build the Dutchman closed, been going over the plans several times, changed my mind as to the approach, changed it back after another review, slowing down the actual build to a crawl.
 
In the end the process flow I orginally devised still seemed to be the best: plank and install gun deck, cut gunports, then first planking, then install guns on gun deck. I changed the sequence a bit as I wanted to avoid turning the hull upside down with the guns installed, just in case.
 
Planking the gun deck finished, tested some wood stain sourced locally, and applied to the deck. The result was, well, not what I intended:

Contrary to the samples I tested the stain on, the gun deck has a bit of a satin finish, which I did not want. Also, the colour seemed to move more to the brown than to the grey. This area will be completely covered so I lfet it as is, but my staining solution for the upper decks went right out of the window.
 
I almost threw in the towel there and then. The setback of the stain, the seemingly lower quality of fitting and construction design of the kit itself, which at each step seemed to throw me a curve ball, the continuous re-evaluating of my methods, all of this took a lot of the fun out of building.
 
Decided I needed to take a step back and get some fresh air. Lucklily, there's enough of that around over here :-). Ended up in Tønsberg, south of Oslo, and the oldest town in Norway, going back to the Viking era. Little did I know that this town also held a fully functional replica of the Oseberg longship! It was even open to visit:
 


Needless to say, that little visit brought some of the spirit back and I continued with the build.  First up: planking the hull on the gun deck level. As the curve was significant, reverted to soaking each strip and clamping it into place, so it would keep it's shape after drying.
 

Slow but steady progress,  eventually I reached the point I could use the part Occre provides for the closed port side of the ship to draw a template of the gun ports on paper and transfer them to the hull
 

Then, after reviewing my build process again, started on the garboard plank. I hit an issue here, as in previous builds the bulkheads would reach the edge of the keel, planking the bow was relatively easy. For one reason or another Occre decided to not follow that practice and design the bulkheads so the planks are level with the keel edge. That left me in a bit of a situation, as I could not see how to use the supports on the bow to attach te garboard. Decided to split up the plank, partly install this, then another strip, and use the third strip to cover bow to stern, allowing me to attach the front parts of strips 1 and 2 to the full strip.
 


That went better than expected, continued working on planking the hull until complete:
 




Some sanding still needed, but overall the shape is there. While pondering the placement of the guns on the gun deck, I noticed 2 guns were dummies. Decided to order the 12 remaining dummies to make up a fake gun deck, as I'm trying to make sure the hull can be moved safely back to my home country at the end of my assignment, and the fake gun barrels can be added at the end of the build. Bought some 4mm plywood, cut it to size and drilled the holes, ready to be fitted now.
 

 
Then, on to the bow. After fitting the required pieces, saw that some part of the bow was still uncovered, so decided to add a piece to the tip of the bow, cutting it from some spare wood. After sanding the curvature came out right
 


After a lot of testing and doubting, decided on the colors for deck and hull. Went for Vallejo Medium grey for the deck, German panzer Grey for the hull, as black seemed a bit too dark for my liking. Repainted the bulkheads from black to Grey, and did my first drybrushing:
 

Gave the doors a bit of extra detail with some surplus strips, inpired by the build log of Fubarelf. After that, I painted the deck, glued the superstructure pieces to the frame and added some details on the edges for the upper decks. Also made the helmsman's cover, ready to be drybrushed as well
 


 
Next up: drybrushing and varnishing the decks, and then planking the inside of the bulwarks. As they make a bit of a warp decided to plank only up to the top of the gunports off boat, and finishing the job after they've been installed. Wish me luck!

I was quite ready to do some easy stuff after those dang shields, so I hit the oars and rowing benches.  The oars are made from .5mm brass rods.  I cut 30 of them into 5/8” lengths and smashed the ends down with some pliers for the paddles.  Then I painted them a shade of brown.  I drilled holes for the oars in the hull between each shield at a downward angle so the oars will point towards the water.  I won’t install the oars into the hull until I get my water in the bottle and see how much room I have to work with (i.e. how far to let them stick out towards the water).
 


 
Next up were the rowing benches.  I took a 1mm x 1mm walnut strip, cut it into 3/16” long pieces, beveled one edge to match the curving angle of the gunwale, and glued into place.  I also added the mast step.  It is glued to one half of the hull and overlaps the other.
 


 
Finally, I added epoxy resin water to the bottle.  It looks like I got sloppy and drizzled resin in the neck of the bottle.  For once, however, that was on purpose.  Since the bottle will be tilted a bit towards the Kraken’s mouth (as if he’s trying to drink the ship out of the bottle) I thought it would look better to have a little water in the neck.
 
It will take a couple of days for the resin to dry, so now I will begin work on the mast, yard, and sail.
 

 

Evening!
 
I thought this a good time to do an update as the stern is more or less complete. I've just got to add the stern gunport eyebolts and hinges, plus the lanterns which are now under paint.
 
First job here is to fit the glazing panels which come pre-cut. These just pop into place and the PE window frames are painted and pushed into the recesses. These push in snugly, and a little varnish was run around them to 'glue' them into place. Note that you can have any stern window (except the quarter-rears) positioned either open or closed. I opted to leave two windows open.

 
 
 
The columns are now singled out for some ochre paint and these are then glued between the windows. Minimal trimming is needed with these.


 
 
 
Instead of PE for the quarter shingles, a small sheet of pre-cut Laser-Board is included. these are longer than they need to be and are just trimmed and glued into place with a few dits of CA gel. These will then be painted in black to make them uniform (not seen here).


 
 
 
Again, instead of PE, the stern decor is laser-engraved into a sheet of PolyBak. These are finer than PE and have much nicer fidelity. All parts are carefully removed, attached to some de-tacked tape and then airbrushed in yellow ochre paint. Each part is then applied to the relevant engraved area on the ship's stern. For the ship name, a waterslide decal is included.


 
 
Until later!

A small update of what I've been up to, working on the fore shroud lanyards, have the main stay and lanyard rigged along with the main mast tackles, the main topmast, top gallant and fore top gallant masts are just set in place for the overall shot, while far from perfect I think things are looking fairly good scale wise.
 
Michael D.

So I guess that professional golfer John Daly styling would not be accepted?

 

Concerning post #49

I think that something like this has been developed, but his aim would be a little iffy.

... and even, if he wasn't barefoot, leaning onto the ladder with the bare forearms isn't such a survival idea either 😲

Yes, the pool is full of water, and yes, he is barefoot!
 

I fear that someone trying one these things today in an industrial plant would be facing some serious threats to his/her employment.

More:

Popular Mechanics Shop Notes circa 1906 again. The last line is chilling.
 

There is a lot of distortion but here is a picture of Mike’s Winnie next to the speedwell for a size comparison.   The Speedwell is about 7” shorter at 3/8” scale even though the picture makes it seem like more.  That is after all the framing is done.  Only 8 more square frames to go…since this picture was taken.
 

Quick update on my first hull plank layer.  Going better than I would have anticipated, and for a first build I am mostly pleased with how the strakes are turning out.  I have learned quite a bit from this "trial-and-error" build and for the next one I hope to follow more conventional planking methods.  I should have this first layer complete by the end of this week and can move on to the second layer this weekend.  
 
 

You guys were much more cooler than me. All I ever did was try and get a stubborn pile of leaves to burn. 
I was at my dad's place and he was burning large piles of branches, getting them going with diluted diesel fuel. When I was home later and couldn't get my pile started, I poured a bit of gasoline on it. I wasn't aware of what dad had used, besides burn is burn, right?
I remember seeing nothing but fire when I bent over to light it. Only lost a bit of hair, but boy those leaves were ash quick.

Last update, the Olympia is ready.
 
Thank you all for following the Opel assembly line.  😉

A M4 high speed tractor from Hobbyboss is also ready

Thanks for following likes and comments
 

Roof Railings.
 
Back to modelling after an extended holiday.
 
The front part of the railing was constructed as for the drivers cabin using 2mm Brass rod, bent to shape and silver soldered together using a jig to ensure uniformity

The rear part of the railing was constructed from 1,5 mm brass rod and 1-hole stanchions again silver soldered together:
 

As the construction proceded the framework was tested out on the roof and holes drilled in appropriate places to take the vertical stanchions:
 

The assembly was painted black.  My standard method for brass is to use an etch primer and a topcoat of Humbrol Matt Black.

The final assembly looked like this:
 

Finally the whole assembly was attached to the roof and secured with a few drops of CA to the in the holes:
 

 The next step will be to attach the cabin to the chassis.  I have already prepared the brackets for this step since the cabin needs to be inverted and this could damage the roof rack once it is in place.
 
John
 
 
 

Nice observayion!!!... I think You are right...it is the same !:)))

Tongue in cheek, but the other ancient name for Bitumen of Judea was Asphaltum. So, next time you see the crew repairing the cracks in the road with liquid asphalt, have them give you a bit and dilute it with some mineral spirits.  😲😏
I'll crawl back into my hole now.
 
Regards,
Henry

But this variant of transformatiom plastic tonwooden is my lovely :)))
https://karopka.ru/community/user/14122/?MODEL=460592
 
Корпус: основной цвет грязно коричневый (на глаз), далее сухая кисть темперой - сиена натуральная и охра светлая, потом битумный лак с расстворителем 1:1.
Палуба: песочный, проливка тамия - темно коричневая и снова сухая кисть темперой - сиена натуральная и охра светлая.
Body: the main color is dirty brown (by eye), then a dry brush with tempera - natural sienna and light ocher, then bituminous varnish with a 1:1 thinner.
 Deck: sand, tamiya wash - dark brown and again dry brush with tempera - natural sienna and light ocher.

 

       

Thanks Gary.
Details, details, details…
While waiting for the additional shingles to arrive, I have begun work on some further details. First up is adding the Pitch and Tar Tank and it’s platform. A 1:1 scale drawing is provided as a template upon which the platform is built. A couple of scrap wood guides are first attached to the template with double-sided tape.
 

 
Three support beams are then cut to the size specified on the drawing and these are also attached to the template using double-sided tape.
 

 
The five joists are cut to size and glued atop the support beams.
 

 
We are then instructed to cut 10 deck boards from the 1/32” x 1/16” material. As can be seen from the first picture above, the drawing shows these 10 deck boards in place. The only problem with this is that the completed platform measures 7/8” x 7/8”. 10 deck boards that are each 1/16” wide are only ever going to cover 5/8” (or very slightly more allowing for a little size variation and potential small gaps). In the end I needed 13 boards to fill the space, with the last one trimmed back a little. I checked the size of my completed platform against the drawings, and it matches these. It is also a good fit for the size of the tank. No big deal, but there is definitely a discrepancy in the drawings/instructions/materials here.
 
Anyway, once the platform is completed, some bracing is added to all sides. Here is a picture of the completed platform.
 

 
The Pitch and Tar Tank is a resin casting. This is our first foray into the plethora of resin and metal castings included in the kit. It is prepared by painting a light undercoat and then dry-brushing a darker brown over the top. It is then given a dusting of dry chalk powder to finish.
 

 
Subsequent to this photo being taken, I decided to give the entire tank a dunk in my Alcohol/Ink mixture and was quite pleased with the result.
 
Here are a couple of pictures of the completed structure in place atop the Warehouse roof. Note also the addition of support blocks around the platform legs. Prior to final placement, the metal pipe was prepared, blackened and attached to both the tank and the roof. As with previous metal fixtures, black paint was added to the epoxy glue to represent tar and pitch where the pipe enters the roof. It has yet to be finally finished off with some chalk to dull it down a little further.
 

 

 
The Chimney and Stacks for the other roofs were then prepared. These are all white metal castings. With the exception of the Chimney, they are simply cleaned, blackened, polished, and dusted with some grey chalk powder. The Chimney itself has a multi-phase preparation. An undercoat of AK11007 (Rock Grey) is used in place of the Pollyscale Concrete called for in the instructions. This represents the mortar between the bricks. AK 11087 (Scarlet Red) is then used in place of Floquil Scarlet Red and dry-brushed over the top. The aim is to colour only the bricks, leaving the mortar seams untouched. This project has been my first real attempt at the dry-brushing technique, so I’m learning as I go. From normal viewing distance I think it looks okay – the macro lens of the camera is a little brutal though. The top of the Chimney is painted with AK11021 (Basalt Grey) in place of Floquil Grimy Black and finished off with a dusting of black and grey chalk powders to give a “sooty” appearance.
 

 
All of these parts, except the Pitch and Tar Tank pipe, have now been set aside and will be fitted in place once the Yard Master’s Office roof has been completed and that building attached to the Warehouse front.
 
Next up, I’ll be starting work on the loading docks…
 

Welcome on the start of what will become a long build log of the Mary Rose. The idea is to build this model like on the cover of the book "Mary Rose, Your Noblest Shippe"
 
HISTORY (Wikipedia) 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mary_Rose
 
MUSEUM
https://maryrose.org/the-history-of-the-mary-rose/
 
BOOKS
 
 
 
INDEX
 
Frames (bulkheads)
Design
Building slip and align the frames
Fillerblocks
 
Planking
Keel and lower hull planking
Planking between wale 1 and 3
Treenails
Waist an bow
 
Rear castle
Build up
 
Fore castle
Build up
 
Cannon deck
Basis
 
Base plate
 
 
 
Started sawing wood at the beginning of last year (cherry)

Books have been bought and partially read.

The frames have been enlarged with a printer to a scale of approximately 1/48 - 1/50.


I first wanted to build on a scale of 1/45 (like my Pelican). After an initial investigation whether I have room for a fully finished model on that scale, it will be a scale of 1/50. 1/45 will be too big to fit in the closet.

 
The first step is drawing out the frames on paper (3D designing and printing is not my thing, drawing, sawing, filing, sanding and making dust is).

To be continued

thank you very much 

Outstanding !  Your build log will be a real help for anyone doing a ship of this type  ... very inspirational !