CaptainSteve

Nice work on your main-stay anchor !!

Food for thought, Matt. Soooo ... If I'm reading your picture (and Sheet 5) correctly, then essentially, the only actual connection between mast and spar is the lift rope/line running through the upper block (??).

Only on matters of wood, Gibbs.

Your lantern looks pretty darned fine from where I'm sitting, Buck. (O'course, if you don't want it ....)

Matt, thanks for those. Very informative, indeed-eth !! Some twenty minutes of reading later, and I'm left with the distinct conclusion that a loop of parrels shall be required for each mast. No matter, I'm guessin' they'll be a lot easier to make than the 1:60 and 1:93 scale ones on earlier builds. (As for yours being "jacked", just remember that mine is "creative", to say the very least !!

Just stunning attention to detail, Thomas !!

Ken, I'm slowly working my way through my own list of Every-Power-Tool-I've-Ever-Wanted. Am currently saving dollars for a Table Saw (probably Byrnes, tho' now I see Proxxon have one) and a Disc Sander. Plans are being made to take the lathe up to CaptainAndrew's next weekend for the express purpose of making sawdust (and barrels), so I'll let you know my thoughts on it afterwards. Meantime, back to the rigging and I have questions regarding how the cross-spars are attached to the masts on these type of boats. Does the mast just sit in-between the two blocks on the spar, essentially being attached only by the lift rigging ?? Were parrels employed, as per the spanker yards attached to mizzen masts ?? Enquiring Bounty Launch builders (with zero sailing experience) need to know ... (Sorry, Crackers)

WoW !! Just WoW !! Thank you for your work, Bill.

Err guys, before this gets too much further out of hand, may I remind people that the point of Kit-Bashers is for ship-modelling ideas ... Please, there are forums for discussing our old computers ... and desks. And, Keith, there's definitely one for old jokes with punch-lines that make ya groan ... I know, coz I contribute to it a lot !! (Gotta admit, I hadn't heard that one before)

There just be no comparison between Chuck's ropes and the kit-supplied crap. The Syren stuff looks better, feels better, and cuts better. As well, it falls in place better than the shiny cord which MS supplied. Can't say that I've seen that which Corel supplies for their kits. As to the lathe, patience young Padawan ... it be not going anywhere.

Work shall most verily be continuing on the rigging lines, but here be an updated version of the List ... (Barrels re-added)

That was DEFINITELY weirder than my coconuts !!

Nice, Tom ... I be thinkin' that some scrap lace pieces laid between your frame and the disc windows would make nice curtains.

Matt, Essentially, beyond the lifts, and using some of the blocks for bunt-lines to lift the foot o' me sails, I be planning on using your work as my guide. (By the way, I'm yet to take my lathe out of the box. Once the arm heals up a bit, I plan on taking it for a test-spin a-fore working on a re-do o' the barrels.)

In truth, had you not pointed them out, I would hardly have noticed your massively over-sized tre-nails. Never fear, once you have added some ballast rocks and a few barrels, I would imagine they shall hardly be noticeable (a trick which we not-so-good modellers use).

Nice to see it all coming together, Patrick. A question (which I think I know the answer to) ... Will you be havin' six windows ... or eight ?? (PS: I'm still interested in any plans you made for the stern supports, if they are available to the general public)

“Interesting that Ye should be a-mentioning the rigging, Patrick,” CaptainSteve were to open with. “For I has been givin’ a lot o’ thought to that matter over these past weeks.” Indeedeth, Our Hero didst reason thusly, “That at the scale o’ 1 to 16 that this kit be, ‘tis my thinkin’ that I shall verily be needin’ to look most closely at the nitty-gritty o’ the riggin’.” But a-fore we doth progress with that, there be the matter o’ these pics of the newly installed tholes. “Rather than just a-using the kit supplied dowel (1/32nd inch),” CaptainSteve didst explain, “I be choosing instead these toothpicks which I doest keep in abundance for use as glue spreaders.” “I doth liketh the pre-engraved grooves around the top o’ each,” he didst enthuse. These were first dipped in Teak Brown stain … … and thence trimmed to size and a-fixed into position …. Those with long memories may recall-eth a-mentioning (back in Post #256) o’ time-worn oar grooves etched into the wales …. "Hmmm ...," CaptainSteve were to complain. "These pics be of very poor-eth quality !!" “But getting back to the matter of the riggin’ o’ me Launch,” he were to continue. “I be a-figuring that I really must be a-displayin’ the seizings an’ servings as much as be possible.” O’course, this could prove-eth to be a most difficult path for Our Hero … “Just how many o’ the Horde are aware that CaptainSteve doest, verily, possesseth nought in the manner o’ real-life sailing experience ??” he were to query, a-fore showing this latest – in-progress – photograph … It be Our Hero’s intention that the upper block on each o’ the masts shall be the lift for the corresponding spar. “The lower line, which doth still require more servin’, be a stay, and shall be looped around a wooden peg, and thence lead down to a pin." Given his complete lack of sailing knowledge, Our Hero wouldst greatly appreciate any suggestions that wouldst improve upon the rigging. Incidentally, CaptainSteve didst happen to mention, the sails now be re-fitted to the spars using Chuck’s rope. “I hast decided,” Our Hero didst begin to close, “to be a-goin’ with a complete re-fit using ropes from the Syren Shipping Co.” Finally, to the left o’ the Syren packages, can be seen some blocks which hath been stained and stropped, but doth await serving.

Arrr ... it be OK, George. But I think it is time to get back to the ship-modelling.

Nice work, Monkeyman !!

Sapph'. I just used a piece of brass wire (0.8mm dia) for the pintles, and a piece of 1.5mm (outside diameter) brass tubing to form the gudgeons (also, the outside of the pintles). Small pieces of each were clipped to fit inside the shaped brass straps, and then glued into place with two-part epoxy glue (others solder the parts in place). Check out pictures RUDDER7 and RUDDER8 in this post, back on page 29. Also, check this post in Kit-Bashers. And you can try this one for Nenad's tips on building these bits.

Hahaha ... I'd pay money for a copy of that picture to hang on the wall in my modelling room. Talk about "inspirational" !!

I'm guessing you won't get too much weirder than the time I used Hair in a build ...

Now here's a most fortunate conundrum, George ... Normally, one would be a-leaving the hospital and expect to be laid up for many a day. In CaptainSteve's case, however, the saw-bones didst suggest a most rigorous program of rehab exercises. Within a very short span o' time, Our Hero beganeth to realize that his rehabilitation couldst most quickly be turned to fashioning a few tholes, the touchething-up of paint-work and the makething of rigging blocks. No pictures as yet, but there doest appear to be an update to the List ...

Geezer, As built from the box, I do believe it would be the 1927 re-fit. But many of us have bashed/are bashing to other time frames, with 1812 being a popular choice. Hard as it may be to hear, I think George has given you some good advice. For myself, over the last two years, I've made the ship's boats to this build. Apart from marking-up some frame pieces, that's it !!! Although, I have followed a heap of other builders to see how they are doing it, and I've picked up an awful lot of the history of this ship. That's all part of the fun.

Phil, I suspect you mean this model.