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CaptainSteve

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Everything posted by CaptainSteve

  1. CaptainSteve
    Ken. I re-soaked and re-used many of the frame pieces with no problems whatsoever. Also, if they are breaking, then check the grain of the wood. After many, many "whoopsies", the method that worked for me was: (i) take length of cherry wood which has been soaking (at least an hour, though some were 30 hours in the water-bath). (ii) holding between fingers, pull the wood lengthwise (as though you are trying to stretch it). (iii) whilst stretching, begin to gently (yeah, I had to look that word up in the dictionary, too) bend while still stretching. (iv) if the grain is resisting, then turn the piece latitudinally (ie: roll it 90 degrees). (v) if the grain is running the right way, you will meet little resistance. If so, then continue to form the bend (I used a curling iron for this part).
  2. CaptainSteve
    Sounds fair, CH .... but, then, it wouldn't really be Matt, would it ??
  3. CaptainSteve
    Go, CH !!!
  4. CaptainSteve
    Neither the patina nor LoS does any noticeable damage to wood. In fact, I have seen other builders soaking metal stropped dead-eyes in blackening agents. And, as mentioned, Nigel washes his decks with the stuff. Without having tried it, I'm guessing the Brass Black would be the same. After all, it is used to blacken gun-barrels. I'm guessing nobody wants their gun-stocks all chewed up.
  5. CaptainSteve
    I figured that I would stop at bird-poop on me sails ....
  6. CaptainSteve
    So far, Matt, I have mostly used Liver of Sulphur. That was for the mast-clamps and the grapnel. It turned the brass strip a smoky-black colour that was not at all solid. Hence, on the grapnel, I also dry-brushed black and brown paint to darken further. I also have a half-bottle left of oxidizing patina which was purchased from an arts supply store. That turned the brass an orange/copper colour. The chest clasp and hinges were made from this patina-ed metal. And just arrived by mail are three bottles of Casey's Brass Black. I am yet to try it out, but have read good reports on this stuff. The main ingredient is called "selenious acid". Check out the cannons made by such MSW members as Blue Ensign, NMBrook, Jeronimo and many others. The key to using all of the above seems to be in making certain the metal to be coloured is completely clean and free of oils, dust and dirt. (By the way, an obscure idea I picked up from Nigel (NMBrook) was to use a wash of heavily diluted Liver of Sulphur to add colouring to deck nails). FOOTNOTE: Any and all of the above compounds will do serious damage to your squirrels if you drink and/or inhale them. I can personally attest that the LoS doth stinketh unto thee highest heavens !!
  7. CaptainSteve
    Cathead pretty much has it right on the whole scatological thing ... As I recall, there was not a single mention of any person onboard the Launch taking leave for #1s OR #2s anywhere throughout Bligh's log. He does mention that a number of men took ill ... including, at one point, Bligh his own self.
  8. CaptainSteve
    I like it the way it is now, Nenad.
  9. CaptainSteve
    Meh ... that all depends upon my horoscope for the day !!
  10. CaptainSteve
    O'course, whilst we all employ Captain's choice with our own level of artistic licence (stunning job with the French whippings, Matt), I think you hit the nail on the head here ... Mebbe I should have made less chisels and more cross-cut saws and adzes ... (PS ... Your last photo above looks like an axe-thrower's Dream collection)
  11. CaptainSteve
    I felt exactly the same when making the breadfruits and coconuts. In fact, I would still like to do me own compass, like yours and Buck's. Err, Matt ... I think the squirrels' bed-time has passed.
  12. CaptainSteve
    Matt. I gotta agree with Monkeyman. I reckon I'll have to be re-doin' me own barrels. Arr ...
  13. CaptainSteve
    Nice pics, Matt ... except that now I wanna re-do my Carpenter's chest with metal bands.
  14. CaptainSteve
    Stunning work there, Knotty. I love the work you did on the flag-lockers ... and the additions you have made to the binnacle and stair bannisters shows you to be a Kit-Basher after me own 'eart !! Keep it up.
  15. CaptainSteve
    Great work on the flag, Jesse. Plus, you have taught me a valuable lesson ... if the first can doesn't work, then I'll need to empty another one. REPEAT until desired effects are achieved ... or it is time to go to bed.
  16. CaptainSteve
    Oh my !!! THAT is gunna be a treat to follow !!
  17. CaptainSteve
    Nice work on the planking,Tuff !!
  18. CaptainSteve
    Ken, Having used THAT phrase before, I am completely aware that you really need videos (or a copy of the insurance claim/police report) to properly explain what happened next ...
  19. CaptainSteve
    Thanks for that, Hornet. I believe that was where I first saw Jay's idea, and at the time, I had bookmarked it for future reference. It was nice to revisit the thread and read of other people's contributions !!
  20. CaptainSteve
    Balustrading looks fine, Keith ... especially considering that it is largely undercover.
  21. CaptainSteve
    They may be a PITA to install, Bob, but they really bring your ship to life !!!
  22. CaptainSteve
    Hmmmm .... I can't argue against pictures showing rows upon rows of used barrels with bung-holes at the widest point ... but how would a person go about filling a barrel through a hole located there ??
  23. CaptainSteve
    Interesting questions, indeed ... OK. Let's start with this advice from the FAQs page of the Thousand Oaks Barrel Co, of Virginia. Q: When I turn my spigot, nothing is coming out: A: Physics 101…remove the bung when dispensing to release pressure and allow for airflow. Thus, each water, wine or spirit barrel must have two openings in it:- one for the bung and one for the spigot. I would imagine that spigots would be harder to make, and thus, more expensive than bungs. Therefore, I'd suggest that whilst each barrel containing liquid would have a bung, there might only be two or three spigots on board - passed around and used as each barrel is tapped. I would imagine that a barrel, once filled with contents through a single hole, would then have that hole stopped-up with a bung. Then, when the time comes to "tap" the barrel, a hole would be made by screwing in the spigot (similar to a self-tapping screw). As for where the bung-hole would be located, I'd imagine on the top. This would make filling easier, and well, just seems logical. The spigot, to tap the barrel, would be inserted as far as practicable from the bung, allowing for as much downward pressure as possible. So, most likely, on the curved face of the barrel, perhaps quite low, maybe about 1/5 the way up from the bottom, allowing the pressure of the contents to push down, forcing liquid out through the opened tap. As the level inside lowered, it may become necessary to tilt the larger barrels to allow the contents to come out. For barrels containing dried/solid food-stuffs (flour, rice, pickled meats), the top would be pried off like the lid on a modern tin-can.
  24. CaptainSteve
    Well, go ahead. Turn it on. Let's see it working !!! (Seriously. Nice job, Matt.)
  25. CaptainSteve
    I did mine in gloss (perhaps a touch shinier than your second pic) ... but feel that the matt looks much better.

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