Jump to content

JesseLee

Members
  • Posts

    1,694
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by JesseLee

  1. Thank you everyone for all the kind comments & for all the likes! I changed tree nailing methods. Instead of using toothpicks like I did on the outer hull I went with using a filed syringe needle. I didn't want the tree nails to stand out & look darker on the deck. It worked pretty well, got the results I wanted. I did have a problem with it actually pulling the plug out sometimes & I had to go back over it & fill in where that happened.
  2. Thank you Chuck, this is a great build! Scraped the deck with a razor blade. Got it all even & smooth but nicked the crap out of my bulwarks in the process! Got a lot of spots to fill & re-paint!
  3. Thanks Carl & George! Now the deck planking. Got the rest of the margin planks down. The thought of joggling had me joggled for a while but I finally decided to go for it. It wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be but did have some goof up's along the way. I studied the instructions & others build logs trying to figure out what butt shift to do. I settled with the one Chuck showed in the instruction manual because it made it much easier for me to have them always lay on the existing bulkheads ( a little confused as to which butt shift this actually is ). I did the caulking the same way I did the outer bulwarks, I used black paint- wiped on like stain to keep it thin. Was very unsure of how well I would get the planking spaced & keep it straight from front to back so I slowly cut it all out & dry fitted the whole deck before I glued anything down - holding a lot of planks in place with strips of masking tape to keep it from popping all out on me. This was the first step in this whole build where I got it right the first time. Didn't have to start over anywhere- it all fit right so I picked each piece back up & glued it back down. The glue must really swell the wood because the glued pieces all fitted tighter than the non-glued dry fitted pieces.
  4. Getting behind on my posting, got a lot of catching up to do. As I stated earlier, I'm going to wait on the cap rail right now but will work it in before too long. Got the inboard bulwarks painted red. Took a clearer shot of the transom molding- that first pic was pretty out of focus. Glued the forward margin planks down & did the companionway framing. My stupid computer wont load the pics in order again but you can tell what's what.
  5. This was one of the many things about this kit & its instructions that I wasn't sure about. I often wondered as I did this build just how much of it was wrong. I should have stopped & asked more questions I guess. I wonder if maybe there should be a hook involved here? No one said anything about it when I posted the pictures.
  6. Thanks for the all the comments & likes! Marcus, yes I'm leaving both labels on so it is both one of my hot sauce bottle collection & a SIB. Pictures of the finished build.
  7. Got the ship in the bottle. Glued it down, raised the masts, glued the lines & cut them off.
  8. I like the natural over the yellow but I know you will make it look good no matter what you go with!
  9. I used one of these when I was a bench jeweler. They are the best! I could kick myself for not getting one for myself back then!
  10. Looks good Piet! Been trying to figure out the best way to make some blocks. This has showed me a good way to go about it.
  11. Like George said, some don't glue them. I think this is so if you don't get them lined up perfectly you can pull it one way or another with rigging such as shroud lines and such. I have always glued mine but as George said again I wouldn't epoxy them just in case you have to undo it for some reason like not being lined up right after the glue dries. Full sails hide more rigging & blocks more open views of the deck from certain angles. No sails or furled sails show more of your other work. It a personal preference. I think with furled sails you kind of get the best of both worlds.
  12. Thinning down the inside bulwarks turned out to be way more involved than I expected. Took a long time & keeping them the same thickness was really fun . I ended up with notches in the bulkheads. Filled them in with wood filler. Planked the inside bulwarks.
  13. Brushed the dust & stuff off the inside of the bottle. White painted the wave caps. Didn't trust that glue would hold hull down to putty when the rigging is pulled so I wedged wood sticks down in the putty to have something more solid to glue the ship to. Cut out sails. Stained them with coffee. I always do a wash or 2 in baking soda if I use tea of coffee to neutralize the acid in them.
  14. They look ok to me too. Remember they need to be big enough for the sail material to take up its space & still be loose enough to easily slide up & down the mast.
  15. Robb, as for the number of bands I found that different builds had different numbers. So few records I think AL just guessed & whatever you decide to do will be fine. I saw one build that had 10 - 11 for each mast. I somehow ended up with 11 for one mast & 8 for the other. I cannot remember for the life of me why. Most of the details of the Scottish Maid are not really known because all the records were in one place & destroyed in a fire a long time ago in England.
  16. Test fitted ship in bottle neck. Had to make a few adjustments but it fits in fine now.
  17. Thank you Michael! When I first got done with them I thought I had over focused on them & messed them up. Turned out to be the best ones I've ever done. I definitely would use much thinner material next time.
  18. Thanks Patrick & Bob! Yes Patrick, that's my Syren in the background
×
×
  • Create New...