Yambo

Hello everyone, again.
 
Well, today was going to be THE day of painting the sub with an enamel primer.  I used this primer before and it dries nice and hard.
I took it outside next to the garage and put it on one of the Admiral's large plastic garden barrels as my paint station.
Then I used my shop vac to blow all the dust off it after the sanding I gave it in the last couple of days.  Then wiped her down with a damp rag with solvent.  I used a primer in a "rattle" can from the local hardware store, like Krylon but dries harder.  I put two coats on it and let it sit in the warm sun for a few hours.
 
In the meantime I put the mushroom anchor back in the lathe and cut it down thinner and hollowed it out to make it into a dish shape.  Then cemented the anchor post into it with 5 minute epoxy and also put an eye bolt inside the hull to hold the anchor "cable", which is just a piece of heavy black rigging line.
I drilled a hole in the center false vertical keel for the anchor post and made and installed the eye bolt into one of the frames.  Then fastened the anchor cable to the eye bolt and the anchor and stuffed the cable inside the hull.  The anchor fits nice a snug in it's little "house" and all we see is the rounded bottom of it, quite neat to look at.  The Admiral asked where the anchor was so I told her to bend down and look under the bow, ooooh, she said, I see it's bold head.  Weird Dutch humor     
 
She really liked the looks of the boot now that it's painted white.
 
I mentioned in a previous post that with the primer on it I should be able to see all the blemishes and sanded through spots, etc. 
Well now, this afternoon I took the boot outside and sat in my lawn chair in the shade with some 400 sandpaper and scrutinized the hull for any of that funny stuff and was pleasantly surprised how few little thingies I found that needed some attention.  I did sand it down very lightly to remove some of the grittiness from the paint and it's looking really good, I am a happy camper         
 
So, I guess we can now put some color on it. I have a gallon of semi-gloss enamel called "Roasted Pepper" that we used for our front door.  I love the color because it's not a fiery red but more a subdued red.  It's the same paint I used for the VOC ship gunport lids.  It'll be red up to the waterline and above it a forest like green, which I have not picked out yet.
 
Well, here are two shots of the boat just painted with primer.
 

 

  Cheers.
   

Well, she's finished at last!
 
The last couple of details were finished at the museum yesterday.  As you can see from the photographs, she still needs a proper stand and case - plus a bit of a clean off of odd dust particles before she's permanently cased - but she is complete at last.
 
I must say I'm quite pleased with the way she's turned out.  I think I've got the spars fine enough to look realistic and make her look light and fast rather than just over sparred, but that's just my opinion.
 
The next model is currently in the planning stage and a new building log will appear shortly.
 
John

It’s taken me 4 days to complete the paper patterns for the sails.  I started with the Main Sail and it took me 5 tries to get it right.  The Main Top Sail was next and it took 4 attempts before it was right.  Pretty much, it took me at least 2 tries on each one to get the dimensions correct.
 
Now comes the fun part!  I’m going to go to a fabric shop and purchase some of the lightest muslin I can find.  That seems to be the preferred fabric in all the reading I’ve done on sail making.  I plan on spending a couple of days playing with it to practice using the sewing machine.  I do have a toy sail boat that needs a new set of sail and I thought I would use that as practice before attempting the sails for the Bluenose.
 

You have done some lovely, clean and precise work on her Ferit and she's looking beautiful.  You've taken kit bashing to a new level and you will find it increasingly difficult to convince watchers that you are still a beginner.
 
 Scratch build next?

You have done some lovely, clean and precise work on her Ferit and she's looking beautiful.  You've taken kit bashing to a new level and you will find it increasingly difficult to convince watchers that you are still a beginner.
 
 Scratch build next?

When my son was 16 he got an apprenticeship with British Aerospace and I bought him a Mitutoyo caliper - "You'll need one of these son!".
He tells me he's used it nearly every working day since then. He's now 34 and last Christmas I bought him another one with a couple more functions. He still has the first one I bought him. 
 
I use a vernier caliper but keep thinking about changing to digital. Maybe one day . . . 

"The harder I work, the luckier I get."  Samuel Goldwyn
 
 
Excellent stand Jack!

If I had known you were coming Ferit I would have treated you all to lunch! You can almost see my house in a couple of those pictures of Turunç and that view of the bay from the top of the hill greets me every time I come back to the village from Marmaris or where ever.  I never tire of it (I'm in the northern corner but my house is obscured by trees. 
 
I'm glad you had a good holiday and returned to Istanbul safe and sound. Hayırlı olsun!

If I had known you were coming Ferit I would have treated you all to lunch! You can almost see my house in a couple of those pictures of Turunç and that view of the bay from the top of the hill greets me every time I come back to the village from Marmaris or where ever.  I never tire of it (I'm in the northern corner but my house is obscured by trees. 
 
I'm glad you had a good holiday and returned to Istanbul safe and sound. Hayırlı olsun!

Catheads Fitted
 
Both Catheads have now been fitted - only "dry" for the moment. I will cut the sheave holes and fit the sheaves off the ship before gluing them in. I also need to make the Cathead Caps, more about them shortly.
 
I surprised myself with how accurately they finished up - not even a fraction of a millimetre difference from the centre line or the baseboard :
 

 

 
The notch for beam #2, and the beam dry-fitted :
 

 

 
  Danny

Removing a Beam
 
Just a small "tutorial" on how I safely removed the beam. This method can be applied in quite a variety of situations - I did a similar thing when I snapped off the Knee of the Head a while ago (see HERE).
 
Step 1. I cut the beam in half so that I could work on each end independently.
 
Step 2. I drilled a series of holes close to the edge of the beam on both sides. This helps the Isopropyl Alcohol to penetrate into the glued joints more efficiently :
 

 

 
Step 3.  Using a narrowed Xacto chisel pointed blade I removed most of the material from the middle of the beam :
 

 

 
Step 4.  A #11 Xacto blade was used to cut along the glue joint. Plenty of Isopropyl was applied before and during this step to completely soften the glue. The pieces just about fall out by themselves with a minimum of cutting. The knife blade is used more as a lever than a cutting instrument :
 

 
The result after a bit of cleaning up with a blade. A final sanding can be done after about 1/2 an hour when the Isopropyl has completely dried out :
 

 
  Danny

I've had family and friends staying since May both at my house and in the village Ferit - it's great to have time with my grandchildren and help them enjoy their holiday. With people in the house I have to convert my work room into a bedroom and spend what would normally be hobby time doing other things like swimming, snorkeling, and eating out (no-one wants to cook when they come to visit, why is that?). But my house is now empty . . .
 
Despite it's charms, Turunç is quiet this year with tourist numbers down. Some of my friends will suffer a bit I think. 

I haven't posted on your build for a long time Ferit but don't think that I have been ignoring you. I look in at every new post.
 
Your Berlin is looking magnificent and you should be very proud of your achievements so far. You have done some beautiful work on her. Like all your watchers I know that the rest of the rigging will be perfect. Çok akıllı örümcekler!

My brother and his wife were here for a few days and we had fun together, but now it’s back to building.
 
Looking at the study plans (on the first page) you can see a wheel in front of the mizzen mast.  Now to make a wheel.  Using .04” brass wire I made a ring .40” dia. For a 20” ring made of 2” bar.  I then drilled six holes in the ring to accept .02” wire and cut the spokes to .62” or 30” scale.
 
Bob
 

 

 

 

 

Hello all,
 
I also own a Proxxon DB250 wood lathe with several optional attachments I bought a year or so ago. So far I am very happy with it but I can't compare it with anything else as is the only wood lathe I ever had. It proved to be very reliable and powerful for the small jobs I used it for - pictures 3 and 4. Variable speed I find it useful.
The extra stuff I bought for it was a three jaws chuck, a four jaws one, a mandrel which can be installed to replace the live centre so holes can be drilled into the wood and a set of turning chisels - as you can see in the second picture. The lathe came with six collets of different sizes. 
Think someone already mentioned that it has a bore through the head so longer stock can be worked. The diameter of that hole is 10mm. That also I find very useful as allowed me to work closer to the chuck.
The four jaws chuck is made of some kind of hard plastic. Seems pretty solid but if you clamp in it a piece of (square) wood for only a short distance (say 5mm) so only the tips of the jaws are holding the wood and screw the jaws hard they tend to get out of position. This does not happen if all the jaw surface is in contact with the wood. Other than that works fine.
Another thing I found out is that the wood lathe is only as good as the chisels you have. Before buying the Proxxon set I used to use some regular chisels (shorter) and they didn't do a good job - for me a chisel was a chisel but turns out that not all are made equal... So consider in the price of the lathe at least a good set of chisels (if you don't have one) otherwise you will be disappointed.
As in my build I didn't get to making masts yet - only small posts to support the decks I can't express any opinion about turning long masts.
 
Hope this information helps and if you have any questions I can try to answer them.
Thank you,
 
Alexandru
 

I understand Karl, because of all the internal detail. But, I am sure they are not 3 individual pieces. If you wanted to, would they fit together? My guess is that they would. 

I've soaked thin plywood loads of times Popeye with no problems. If it does de-laminate though I'd simply stick some glue in the gap and clamp it. My Skerry shown on the 'Latest full profile . . ' is nearly all plywood and all of the side panels were soaked in hot water without a problem.

Congratulations on finishing part 2 of your masterpiece Karl. When you have completed part 3, will they all fit together?

Still doing beautiful work Ferit. Beginner? Eminmisin?

I found this after a quick google - http://forums.turbocad.com/index.php?topic=1789.0
 
It's a TurboCad forum and it seems that TurboCad can save as .dxf but there might be issues. 

I don't know about the machines themselves Lextin but I've had some bits and pieces laser cut by an acquaintance in Marmaris (I live in Turkey). I draw the piece on AutoCad, save it as a DXF file so that his software will recognise it and a few minutes later I have a piece of wood exactly the size I want. It's cool. But, if your drawing is wrong . . .
 
The first time I tried the process out was for a set of hands for a cuckoo clock. After drawing the two hands (I used the old broken hands as a guide)  I snipped off a bit of 1mm mahogany ply (surplus material from a laser cut sheet from a boat kit). I laminated both sides of the ply with some thin fibreglass, got them cut and they came out really good. On the drawing I reduced the size of the spindle by around 0.1mm and the hands fitted perfectly.
 
I'm just finishing off a 1:10 model of a CLC Skerry and I could easily have had all the bits laser cut. I didn't though, I just had the long hull panels done that way There's a picture on post #27 of the Latest Full Profile thread. I should probably update it . . .  I've just drawn up the rudder parts on AutoCad and printed them off but I'll be cutting them out on the scroll saw. I'll have them done in the time it would take me to get into town and back. 
 
I like the technique. But again the drawing needs to be right. 

You take your time Paul, the surgeon that re-plumbed my heart says I'm good for at least another 15 years.     

I'm also a fan of epoxy - well fan isn't perhaps the right word - but I use it quite a lot especially where it can't be seen. For example I'll almost always use it to strengthen keel/bulkead joints. I thicken it with sawdust, silica or microfibres (which is really nasty stuff and requires a mask to be worn). I do a bit of work on full size boats and epoxy, while being expensive has no real substitute for glueing, fibreglassing, filling etc.
 
If your models are going in the water then epoxy is imho the best coating for a hull and one thing I learned many years ago is how to do holes -drill, fill with epoxy and drill again so that the edges of the holes are treated. 
 

 

 
 
 
 

Michael, the only thing wrong with retirement is that you never get a day off. Enjoy yours!

One way around the no overhang problem is possible if you have a mitre slot across the top of the table. Cut a piece of wood to fit the mitre slot and down the centre of that cut a slot say 3mm wide. Mount a piece of wood on that, for example a featherboard and secure it with a couple of M3 countersunk head screws and wing nuts. As you tighten the wing nuts the countersunk heads of the screws will force the slot open a little bit more making it a tight fit in the mitre slot. I'll try and draw a picture  . . .