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puckotred

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Everything posted by puckotred

  1. weflac, one of Lennart Petersson's books. "Rigging Period Fore and aft Craft" I suppose...
  2. The drawing is shown here as different ways to strop blocks, not as how to rig...
  3. here you see a couple of ways to do it: hook and thimble, thimble and strap and thimble and thimble.
  4. For blocks I would buy here: http://clasicmodel.com/shop/index.php?route=common/home And rope here:http://www.modellbau-takelgarn.de/englisch/
  5. Hi Chris, I doubt they upgraded the kit to double planking. A lot of other parts would have to be modified. Also, when I contacted NCB they knew nothing about the kit parts. Turkmodel answered quickly but they didn't think that parts that don't fit or where the wrong size was a problem.... And the damn ship is down here in the harbor so I don't understand how they could have got so much wrong in details I've had a look at their latest kit SKONAREN VEGA and quality has not gotten any better. Seems as Mariefred is their best kit and the one you should go for if you really must buy. I just got HMS Terror from Occre in Spain. This being a €99 kit it is way better than Bohuslän that cost me €285 Reputable resellers is not the same as reputable manufacturers Take care of your money
  6. The NCB kits are manufactured by Turkmodel and IMO quality is not that high. I built the SS Bohuslän and was not happy with it. A couple of guys in Sweden come up with what ships to make into kits and let Turkmodel do the kit. I have built kits from Amati, Occre, Caldercraft, Euromodel Como and corel, NCB has lower quality than any of these I'm afraid. And customer care is zero...
  7. You can get them here: https://www.schiffsmodelle-shop.de/de/werkzeug/22246-planken-klemmen.html
  8. I'm still building, but have not found the time to update the log...
  9. I'd go for Proxxon. less noise, better quality.
  10. I hate to be the partybreaker, (well not really) but I had a Dremel 3000 and the drill stand and in my opinion it's crap. The drill stand is too wobbly to do anything more than drill a hole in the general direction of where you want it. I sold them and got me a Proxxon MB 200 drill stand and 240/e. Much more precise. I believe one can get a Dremel adapter to the the MB 200...
  11. Thank you tasmanian and Clare I finished the lower part of the hull. I suspect that I switched two frames in the middle. You can see the "bump" on the left of the picture. Still got the upper part of the hull to plank. After that I'll fix the bump.
  12. Thanks Antony Not as very fast. Have had many hours these days to build in peace...
  13. It felt like it took ages, but now the deck planking is done. (Well, it was done right after I took the photo) Now I can get underway with the hull: Then I decided to clean up the deck and use a little Tungoil: I think it turned out to be acceptable. Planking on this model is quite easy. (Witch is nice since I suck big time at this.) Almost no tapering necessary...
  14. Nothing too exciting, Just deck planking getting underway. It takes forever with all these grate openings on the deck. And the false deck is smaller than it should be, so I have to glue on extentions so I can lay the planks all the way out to the hull. Just want to be sure there's no empty spaces later on...
  15. Thanks Peter, Everthing is according to instructions apart from sequence. No arch sculptures yet...
  16. Nirvana and Peter: As I have worked there I know them, (or knew them, they just reorganized the consortium and though the existence of the ship is secured, she will never sail again.) but I have no room or tools to do a scratch build. And I can NOT afford The Falmouth, way out of my economic situation. But, I have a lot of other stuff to build I have now finished planking the stern The arching parts are too thick as you pointed out Peter, But it is layers of ply and hullplanks + the second layer planks. I could sand it thinner from the inside, but that's the ply layer that holds the first layer planks (and also I'm too lazy to do that ) and sanding on the outside would change the form of the hull. Hopefully the decorations will hide it a little. Sanding, paint and a shitload of decorations will probably hide the little gaps etc.
  17. At least a year until Vasas ratlines (I hope) so no ratlines until then First of all it's easier to do the curves with the deck on a worktable, second the poop deck is in the way.
  18. I would really like to do Ostindiefararen. I had a job on her for about a year. Great ship. have been looking for a kit of her for a long time. The closest you come now is Euromodels The Falmouth, a Brittish East Indiaman that one could modify...
  19. Thanks for dropping by Don Jane, Ron and Jan I was getting tired of ratlines actually... This is how far I got yesterday: The poop deck was a really bad fit, but I guess that the update is to blame. No biggie, just had to sand a little. And all misalignements will be covered by deck planks. And now the facepalm; I was going to plank the deck this way: But I forgot that and glued the deck in place. To get the pattern above one really has to split the deck in two and plank each half seperately. Now, when the deck is there it's too much trouble to plank this way. Oh well, next time... The Xebec will have a regular deck planking now...
  20. Ondras71: I hope I won't disappoint you Antony: As far as I can see the quality is outstanding. I usually tend to get all the kits with lots of faults but this time I hit jackpot. Will post pics of material details later on. Julie: You're welcome to follow along...
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