catopower

Thanks Andy. Paper modeling seems like a great hobby in itself. Doris' work blows me away. But, the basic kits are inexpensive and you just seem to need glue, X-Acto or razor blades and a cutting mat. Occasionally, I've made use of a sharp pair of scissors, but you don't need any power tools and you don't need a whole lot of space. So, that's really nice. Working at 1:96-scale may prove to be a little overly challenging for me when I get to the details. I know what it's like with wood models and, thankfully, they're pretty sturdy. For a bit more expense, the 1:72-scale boxed kits of Le Coureur, Berbice and HMS Alert might be better to work with. I just went the cheap route to try it out. But in the long run, the boxed sets might be a better deal, plus the bigger scale, included fittings, paints, etc. Ages of Sail has a big order in with them for more items which are apparently stuck in customs somewhere, but I know they (we) at least have the Berbice and Coureur "Laser Cardboard Kits" in stock. If I crash-and-burn on this build, I may give one of those a try. But, here's to hoping all turns out well! Clare

Well, I broke down and ordered this paper model kit from Shipyard last month. I've been helping Ages of Sail with various things for the past several months and ran across their stock of Shipyard paper model kits and was intrigued by them. I have a very vague memory of paper models as a kid. I think my older sister or an older person I knew must have had a paper model kit or something, because there seems to be something oddly familiar about them. In any case, I ordered the kit from Poland, and it only took about 10 days to arrive. I immediately had to open it up to check it out. HMS Alert is a 12-gun cutter and there's a great volume of the Anatomy of the Ship series on it. The model itself is the smaller of the two versions made by Shipyard. The larger one is part of what they call their Laser Cardboard Kit series. That's simply their term for a complete boxed kit that includes laser cut frames, but also all the paints, dowels, paint brush, wood blocks and deadeyes, and turned brass cannons, etc. Some of the kits in the series are also available as part of their Paper Model kit series, but the Laser Cardboard Kit versions are often a larger scale. My kit is just one of their standard Paper Model kits. It's 1:96-scale, whereas the Laser Cardboard Kit version is 1:72 scale, which would have been nice, but a lot more expensive both for the kit and for shipping. Mine cost me about $37 including shipping. You'll pay more for it from U.S. stores since distributors can't sell enough of them to get better pricing, but at least you don't have to convert currency or deal with overseas customer service. Not that any of this has been an issue with my first order. My only experience with Shipyard kits was the HMB Endeavour kit, which is packaged like my Alert kit, but the Endeavour had no laser cut frames. So, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the Alert had a full set of frames, all pre-cut. Of course, I had to try out the kit right away and next thing I knew, I had the hull framing done and I was off to add the hull sheets! This is something of a side project for me, and I'll probably work on it the way I worked on the 18th Century English Longboat kit, which was just something I pull out when I need a break from wood ship modeling. So, I didn't plan on doing a build log on it. At least not for now. But, at the moment, I seem to need a lot of breaks, so I'd spend an hour on the Alert pretty regularly. I've been experimenting with glues a little and settled on the contact cement I have for most of the work. It's Pliobond and the stuff reeks, but I've gotten used to it, and it seems to work very well. I'm surprised at how well everything has gone together so far. Of course, I haven't dealt with any of the fine details. Not sure how I'm going to do with all those things. And, I'm a little cautious about rolling my own cannons. But, I'd like to keep from turning it into another wood ship model kit where I just use all the same fittings, buy after market cannons and all. So, we'll see. I'm also a little nervous about how well I can rig a paper model, since I can't use the same "touch" as with a wooden model where my rigging can be fairly tight. So, far, I've managed not to accidentally crush parts, which are amazingly delicate until supporting pieces are glued in place. If I get ambitious, I'll start an actual build log, but I've got enough build logs in progress to keep track of for now. Just wanted to share about the new kit. Clare

Hi Bob, Welcome back! I somehow missed some of your last updates. You've been doing a great job on this build – your model looks fantastic! I know what you mean about not knowing what to call the parts. It's a funny thing about this model because it's so non-Western that items don't really have a corresponding Western counterpart. And even if they do, somehow it doesn't seem right to refer to them using the same terms. Like the vertical timbers up near the bow are used to support a windlass, but do you call them bitts? Doesn't seem to fit. And, the aft half of the ship supports what might be called a main deck house, but I just feel like I need a Japanese-ee term for it, you know? So, how dare you come back from Japan without any more Woody Joe kits! I certainly hope you'll be going back soon to get some more... Clare

Hi Steve, Camber would not be overkill as some companionway hatches certainly had it. I don't think it really serves a purpose though because the slant of the roof sheds all the water. It may be more for looks. I've built a couple models with cambered companionways, but they were either yachts or yacht-like. Both were 1850 era schooners. I think it depends on the shipwright. If your plans are accurate and call for no camber, then that's the way you ought to build it. If you suspect the plans and feel the companion way roofs should have camber, then by all means build them with camber. The attached photos show the companionway roofs on my models. These were 1850 era American yacht and pilot boat. Is Shenandoah American built? Or was she built overseas? If American built it would certainly be possible that the companionway roofs had camber. If she was foreign built, that's another matter and I don't know much about that. If so, then perhaps the straight roof makes more sense. Clare

Hi Mike, I'm a little late on arrival, but I really loved the job you did on the Badger and am looking forward to your work on the Pegasus. The planning you've been doing sounds really great. I have become a big fan of pear wood and have also been experimenting a lot with wood dye. I used wood dye on my recently completed Higaki Kaisen model (kit by Woody Joe of Japan) and also been using a lot of black dye on a colonial schooner model I'm working on now. I'm enjoying your discussion/thought-process on the wood choice since I've been going through that a lot myself. Anyway, I'll be watching your build with great interest! Clare

This isn't much of a build update, but it is an update on the project since I got the laser cut metal parts in the mail today. This is a somewhat pricey alternative, but I just wasn't happy with the parts I was making, so had to try this out. The USPS Priority mail box arrived today. Expectedly, it was extremely light. The parts were separated into sealed compartments in a thick clear plastic bag. There are 8 parts in all and they look perfect. They are exactly what I had ordered, down to the 16 sets of pin-holes that I thought I would use to help securing the spokes. I drew these into the final Adobe Illustrator files and I suspect they probably added significantly to the cost. I didn't ask for a breakdown, but I will do that probably tonight. At minimum, this was a test to see not only what the laser cutting service could do, but also how my drawings would translate to the final parts. I was afraid that my illustrator files wouldn't work too well and that I'd have to learn another software application for doing the design work. As it turns out, I might have to do that anyway for more complicated work since my illustrations are often composed of shapes used to mask out unwanted parts of other shapes. That won't work for the laser cutter as it sees and cuts all shapes, regardless of whether they are "hidden" behind another. However, I believe there is a tool that will allow me to get around this problem. Not sure what my next laser cutting test will be. I was planning a 3/16" scale version of the 1859 Saginaw as launched and it might be that I'll need to laser engrave the wheelhouse patterns in wood or something. There is still the matter of the carriages for the 30-pdr Parrot rifles on this model. Those carriages details at 1/8" scale might be a good second project and might give me an opportunity to find ways to reduce costs. It was hard to photograph steel in dim lighting as it's very reflective. In that last photo, I held the part up to my computer screen so that the light from the screen would show through the pinholes. As I said, this is not really build progress, but it does move the project forward. Next, I'll have to make some kind of fixture to get the spokes attached correctly and the hubs in place. Clare

Hello Phil, I built the AL Dallas kit over 20 years ago and collected what information I could at that time including a copy of the Coast Guard Record of Movements for the ship. What information do you have that says Dallas was a 51-ton cutter? According to the book The Coast Guard Under Sail (not a primary research source, I know), it was suggested that the Dallas was built to Doughty's 79-ton design. So, I always took the AL kit as the Dallas of the 79-ton design. Those "spash boards" I always assumed were like hawse timbers and were the timberheads of the cant frames and filler between them. It would appear that the anchor cables would run out over the top of them, so they did serve as hawse timbers and had to be quite strong. Richard, I am assuming that the vessel Marquardt mentions may actually be a replacement for the first Dallas, since that one was sold off in 1821. Clare

I've used an electric plank bender for years. I don't know how anyone can NOT bend wood with it. I soak the plank a little, then use the plank bender and it heats the water in the wood to steam. And it does allow you to ben the wood in more than one direction and easily twist the wood too. I don't remember ever getting burned and never understood why anyone had problems with it. Clare

Dave, You can also order it from BlueJacket. They have black annealed steel wire from 22 gauge to 34 gauge including the 28-gauge you're looking for. But, all wire you get is going to be shiny unless you brush or spray on some kind of dull coat. Clare

Contrary to available evidence, this project is not dead! I do have a lot of work that I need to deal with that's in the way, but this past weekend, I revived the old paddle wheels issue. As well as that last photo etching session worked out, to make the paddlewheel rims the way I want requires 4 rings in 2 sizes. That's 4 photo etching sessions assuming I don't screw up any of them, which is a bad assumption to make. So, say 5 - 6 photo etch sessions. That's a lot of time and a materials. Some time ago, I found a laser cutting service in Nevada and finally re-contacted them and I'm going to give that a try. It's not cheap, but I'm so stuck on the issue of getting these rings right that the $65 to have the parts cut for me is a bargain. I created the artwork using Adobe Illustrator. I'm not a CAD person, but fortunately AI files apparently work just fine. I decided as long as I'm going to the trouble, I'd go ahead and have pin holes cut where the rings attach to the spokes of the wheel. I have no idea how well the holes will turn out, but this is an experiment anyway. What I learn from this, I'll apply to future builds. So, with a little back and forth with the laser cutting people, I'm now waiting for the final art file for me to approve. I'm choosing standard turn-around service, which means I should have the parts in a little over a week, I think. I decided to try having the parts cut in metal, though I could have chosen birch ply. The only metal that can be cut this way however, is stainless steel. I'm going with .018" thick material, which should be strong enough, though it might be slightly thick in terms of scale. I think it should be okay. The company doing the work is a robotics and electronics supplier called Pololu and they're in Las Vegas. I'll let you know how these turn out in case anyone wants to try them out too. Their custom laser cutting service page is here: Pololu - Custom Laser Cutting Service Hopefully, this will give me a boost in finishing the paddle wheels, because the way I'm building the model, I have to have the paddlewheels in place before I can move on to the wheel houses. Clare

Bob, Beautiful job on the hull! You did a better job than I did. The model is looking great. Now you're making me miss building this kit. But, I'm enjoying watching you build yours. Clare

Hi John, On my last couple coppered models, after completing the copper sheathing, I sprayed the hull with flat lacquer. It takes away that overly shiny look to the new model and it keeps off dirt and grime and makes it possible to handle the model without leaving permanent fingerprints as oils in the skin can't reach and react with the copper surface. In my experience, no matter what you do, the copper will not stay new looking no matter what you do. It will always slowly dull and tarnish, but I think the "aged" copper looks much better after 2 or 3 years – much more natural. Clare

Hi Bob, Glad to see you started your MSW build log. That boxwood piece looks great. Did you use the opposite piece as a pattern? I agree that the Hinoki (Japanese cypress) smells wonderful. I always thought of my Woody Joe kit build as a form of aroma therapy. A Japanese friend of mine carved a piece of the wood and saved the shavings because they smelled so nice. I'm going to have to build more of their kits, just for the therapeutic effect. Looking forward to your posts! Clare

Hello Jiljilia, sorry I missed following your build log. It was so quick! I've always like the look of Amati's Arrow gunboat and I even purchased a set of plans for it. I like your photo of the boat next to the Interceptor. I built one of those and flew it a LONG time ago. Was a lot of fun, though it lost a wing pod on the first flight. On it's last flight, I guess there was a lot of wind up off the ground. It went straight up then made a sudden 90-degree course change and I had to go hunt it down. Was a neat flight though – I remember it well, though it was...35 years ago... Wow! That painting of the gunboats, being Swedish, is more likely of the F.H. Chapman designed Swedish gunboats rather than the American gunboat Arrow. Anyway, nice job on the Arrow! Clare

Hi Tom, I just recently lucked out and bought the monograph and plans through MSW/Chuck Passaro. It looks like a very nice ship and I'm hoping to tackle it someday, so I'll be eagerly following your build. I have been using pear wood myself on a current build, not swiss pear. I've really like the way it looks and I think you've made a great choice. Clare

Hi Dave, Drake, I don't know about the stated width of the deck of the Mayflower, but I can tell you that 5/32"=1' scale is the same as the ratio of 1:76.8. So Yves is pretty close in calling the Model Shipways' kit 1:76. Don't know if that helps you any... Yves, One question, and I'm sorry if I missed this in the posts. You stated more than once that the blocks are plastic. Are you sure about that? They certainly don't look plastic in the photos you posted. Also, Billing Boats and Woody Joe of Japan are the only current manufacturers of wooden ship kits that I'm aware of that use plastic blocks. Thanks, Clare

Hi Floyd, that's a very impressive model. Nice job on the hull! I've seen the kit and been interested in it, but I never pictured how big the model is. The hull is really long, but I believe the mast is going to be even longer! Very intriguing kit. The J-Boats were really beautiful sailers. The modern catamarans were fun to watch last year, but they lack the beauty and elegance of the old yachts. Clare

Hi Ulises, Nice job so far on your build – Looks like you're making great progress! On the pattern issue you mentioned. Check to make sure your planks are parallel. At one end of the opening, how many planks wide is the opening? And how many planks wide at the other end? Looks to me that it's 8 planks wide at the fore end and 7 planks wide at the after end? Clare

Hi Keith, Minimum charge I got was $350. I guess if you really, really want the parts badly enough, maybe it's affordable. Or if you make enough parts from a sheet, you can of course sell the unused, but I think it would take an awful lot of people to make it worthwhile. But, now that I'm looking at it again, maybe it's not exactly cost prohibitive. More that it's a pretty big investment. On the other hand, I found at one point a place that will laser cut just about anything and the price was pretty low, with a $6 minimum order. I don't recall what the cost basis was, if it was area of cuts, total cutting time or what. I just know that they could cut wood, but the only metal they could cut was stainless steel, I believe it was. Anyway, now that you brought up the topic, I'm going to have to revisit these things and see what it would really cost to sending some work out to be done. Of course, I think it's nicer not to say "I did my own photo etching" than saying that "I paid a service to do it". But, it just all comes down to the value of your time I suppose. Clare

Hi Keith, I've done photoetching for a couple of my models using the Micromark kit. It does work. However, I will say that doing your own photoetching will probably not result in parts that look like the commercial set that Brian showed. The commercial processes are different than the DIY kit, and from what I've been able to find, they are cost prohibitive. But DIY PE is pretty finicky, involves several steps, and if you screw up one thing you practically have to start all over. You also need a drawing program, but the Micromark kit requires an inkjet printer, not a laser printer. I even gave up at one point as nothing was turnout out well. Then, I tried it again with a fresh outlook months later and had some pretty good success on small items. And...well... I was going to direct you to my photoetch results on my Saginaw project, but I just went there and 2/3 of the photos are now missing, so that won't help. Clare

Jay, I too am really glad to see you back at your Constitution model. I was really bummed when you had email me that you were giving up (or at least taking a break from) ship modeling back in November or so. So, I'm glad to see the progress you have been making on the redo of all that work. Having more than a couple big redo's myself, I know that's a hard thing to look at. But, you've got so much invested already, so it's good to see you moving forward again. Beautiful work! Clare

I couldn't come up with a good enough excuse to not work on the Saginaw, so I went ahead and made a little bit of progress... I finished up one of the round (octagonal) skylights and added the paneled doors to the deck house structure. I still need to do a little more cleanup and detailing, but this is what I have now. I haven't glued this into place yet, but will do that shortly. I had the darnedest time getting the windows into place. I tried cutting little pie sections, but they were small and impossible for me to control. So, I ended making a circular piece with a section cut out. This is the only way I could get the windows into the skylight. It doesn't lay flush with the frames, but at this scale, you really can't tell. I did have a little problem with a tiny amount of overlap at the ends, but it's pretty well hidden after I added the bars over the windows. Oh, yes, and those bars were so small and required so much care to affix that it was a very painful process. Give me ratlines instead any day! Next, I dealt with the paneled doors. I needed to add knobs to the doors and just chucked brass nails into a dremel and filed the heads down to a more reasonable size. Interesting to note that the ground away areas are steel colored since these are apparently not brass nails, but brass plated nails. Not so noticeable at this scale. I attached the doors, leaving a couple of the doors ajar. Obviously someone aboard was careless and didn't close them properly, and either the seas are very calm or the roll of the ship will slam them shut. These still need a little clean up and they aren't perfect. But, these will be mostly hidden by the wheel houses and the hurricane deck. The deck house is just temporarily put in place. I will need to get the wheel houses built before I can put this in place permanently. Clare

Excuses? Hang on... I'm thinkin', I'm thinkin'...

Happy Holidays and thank you Grant, Bob, John, Elia, and Popeye for kind words of support. Now that I've gotten past that little brass etching snag, I have no excuses for lack of progress anymore. So, I guess I'd better get a move on! Clare

I've cast many parts over the past few years including cannons, anchors and windlass parts. I've always used pewter alloys. With a melting point below 600˚F, you don't need access to a special furnace. Pewter alloys are easy to work with using just an iron ladle, a MAPP gas torch and RTV silicone molds (and safety equipment!). Not sure why you would want to use lost wax castings. I used to hang out with my father, who had a small lapidary and jewelry business. He used to use lost wax castings for gold rings. You have to make a wax pattern for each item your going to cast and then you destroy the patterns in the process – it's a one-shot deal. Great for sculpting unique works in wax and casting them in metal. But, it seems like there are easier ways to accomplish what you need. Of course, depending on what cannons you need, you might simply consider buying them in pewter from The Lumberyard or buy turned brass barrels from Chuck Passaro if the available sizes will work for you. If you really want to do you own castings (it is pretty fun to learn), you can get everything you need from Micromark except the torch and safety gear. Clare