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catopower

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  1. catopower
    Thanks Mario, Woody Joe doesn't do direct sales anyway. I recommend ordering from my friend Kazunori Morikawa at Zootoyz.jp. His site is in english and service is very good and prices are reasonable. Here's a direct link to the Woody Joe ship model kits: http://www.zootoyz.jp/contents/en-us/d67_Woody_JOE_Wooden_Sailing_Ship_Model.html. The Yakatabune kit is about halfway down the first page. Clare
  2. catopower
    Before going one with my build, first things first. Took the model to a ship model meeting last month and by the end of the meeting, found the tiller broken off, lying on the deck. It was a simple, clean glue break, but I left it for a few weeks and didn't do much on the model. Then this past Saturday, I needed to take something over to work on our model workshop on Hyde Street Pier, so I took the Yakatabune. I was really glad I did because nobody else showed up and I got a bit of work done. Anyway, the tiller was a simple glue attachment, so this time, I drilled it out and peg it this time, using a piece of 1/32" stiff brass wire. At the workshop, I continued with the next step, Step 21, which deals with the sliding screen panels. The instructional text: 21 Assembly of Sliding Doors • Sliding Doors A, make 12 pieces. • Use Shoji paper A, printed side up. The last line was hard to translate correctly, but the gist is that part 11 should stick out 1mm on each end when it is glued to part 12. It makes more sense when looking at the instructions. This line refers to the image at the very left side. There is a second half to these instructions that is almost identical to the first, except that it refers to another set of sliding doors... • Sliding Doors B, make 8 pieces. • Use Shoji paper B, printed side up. i didn't add the paper yet screens yet. That's coming up next. Clare Edit: The 1mm ends of part 11 form tabs that fit into slots, allowing the screen to slide. Part 11 is on the FRONT side of the doors. If the shoji screen paper is going to fit securely, the door pieces need to all be flush on the front side. Problem is that the other pieces are a different thickness than the 11/12 assembly. So, you just have to be aware. I didn't catch this initially and had to adjust, re-gluing some pieces part way through.
  3. catopower
    Looking nice Bob! You did a much better job that I did on those tapered bow planks. Clare
  4. catopower
    Thanks Chris, Mark, Slog, for the advice. I'm moving ahead with the turned brass cannon barrels. Regarding blocks and such, I needed to work on something fairly mindless, so I started working on the paper blocks. I figured I'd see how they turn out. If they're not so good in the end, I'll switch to purchased wooden blocks. The paper blocks have one advantage over the Syren blocks in that this is a small model and with the paper blocks are available in 3.5mm size, which I can't get in pear wood. So, in paper blocks, I now have 2.5mm, 3mm, and 3.5mm sizes. 2mm blocks are available from Shipyard too, and rigging calculations would normally call for them, but that's awfully small to assemble. Anyway, I don't have any of the 2mm paper blocks on hand, and the kit itself calls for these sizes I do have. Here is a sample of the unassembled blocks. These are the same kits that come in the boxed kits. A nice, cool but sunny Sunday morning, cup of coffee and ship modeling project – A perfect day! Here's a close-up of painted, CA reinforced and touched up blocks Sorted by size and cleaned up a little more. This certainly took a bit of effort to pre the blocks. I painted them while still in their sheets, I also glued them up in batches, which is easiest to do on the sheets. The process of assembling is exactly the same as the Syren built-up blocks, except that because they have to be painted, they need touch up. Also, cardboard isn't a very strong material, so I made sure to wick in some thin CA glue. I have yet to see how well these hold up when rigged, but at least their ready when I need them. Clare
  5. catopower
    Hi Slog, A good question. Shipyard has 4 main product lines and two of those product lines include ship model kits. One product line is their "Laser Cardboard Kits," which includes this HMS Wolf kit, and the other are their "Paper Models." The Paper Models are all 1/96-scale and have parts you have to cut out yourself and they are printed in color. The Laser Cardboard Kits are boxed edition kits in 1/72-scale. The parts are all laser cut from plain white card stock, and the necessary paints are included in the box (as well as paint brushes). Some items like decorative friezes are not laser cut, but are printed in color. Hope that helps! Clare
  6. catopower
    Hi Mark, Ah, I get your meaning now. Okay, I'm not really trying to be a salesman here... But, what about the non laser-cut 1:96 scale paper model? You should easily be able to scale it up by 100% to get a 1/4" scale model and it's less than $40. It's all the same parts, just not laser cut. Of course, you don't get to use the cast resin figurehead that's included in the boxed kit, if that was your intent. Ages of Sail should has them (I'm sure I've seen them on the shelves), the staff is just really bad about getting products online where people can actually buy them... Clare
  7. catopower
    Hi Mark, Thanks for the quick reply! I appreciate the input, even if it is to tell me that I have to make the call myself! On HMS Wolf, not sure what you mean about a small fortune for the plans. The plans package is on Ages of Sail for just under $50. I have a set myself. They're beautiful plans. They don't have any "Model Details", but they have all the plan drawings in 1:72 and 1:48 scale to easily build in wood. Clare
  8. catopower
    Okay you ship modelers out there, paper or otherwise, here's a question. The basic model is all paper: hull skeleton, hull planking, deck planking, deck furniture, etc. I know this is a "Card Model", but how much of it really has to be paper? Already, the masts, gaffs, boom, yards, bowsprit on this model are all wooden dowels, and I'm already going down the path of using commercially available brass cannons. The reason for this is that I just don't think I can do a good job making such small cannon barrels, especially in paper. Now, I'm starting to look at the blocks, deadeyes and such and now wondering if I should just use Syren blocks and such, or if I should make them from paper. It's not difficult to make the paper blocks using the laser cut sets that Shipyard sells and I have enough on hand for this model. My initial plan was to make a paper model using the Shipyard kit as much as possible. But, I want the model to look nice too. Still, I feel like I'm taking the easy way out to some degree here. I certainly don't have any qualms about using commercially available metal cannons on a wooden ship model, or metal blocks and deadeyes if they served the model well. Any thoughts? Clare
  9. catopower
    Mark has the link posted. With the latest shipment that Ages of Sail received, there are 5 of them in stock. At the moment, the sixth one is in my hot little hands here... I want it badly, but it's actually inspiring me to push along on my Alert build. Also, making me thing about taking on one of the smaller Laser Cardboard Kits, like the French lugger Le Coureur or schooner Berbice. Too much cool stuff out there... Clare
  10. catopower
    Here are some more pics... Clare
  11. catopower
    Just thought I'd share some photos I took of the new kit from Shipyard. This is a nice looking kit that's more expensive than many of their other kits, but a lot less than their HMS Mercury kit. HMS Wolf is a 10-gun brig of war. She's actually "Snow Rigged" meaning that she carries a small mast immediate aft of the main mast, which carries the spanker sail, boom and gaff. The ship is small, and while the Laser Cardboard Kits are all of a larger scale than their Paper Model kits, it's still only 1:72-scale, so the model measure about 20.5" long complete. As with all the Laser Cardboard kits, this one contains all the paints, spars, blocks, rigging line, sails, turned brass cannons and swivel guns. It also includes resin castings for the figurehead and some of the carvings. Other flat carvings are laser-etched cardboard. The Laser Cardboard kits also include instruction books, far better than the instructions provided in their less expensive Paper Model kits. For other information, you'll just have to take a look for yourselves... Clare
  12. catopower
    Have been too busy with projects that are "due" to do much here. But, working with swivel guns on one model, I came to discover that these 1/4" scale swivel guns from Syren Ship Model Company were the perfect size for the cannon barrels for this 1/8" scale model of the Alert. Anyway, the look visually correct and they look nice – a lot nicer than my rolled up paper barrels were looking. Also, saves me from having to turn or cast my own. So, why not? The brass barrel actually looks really nice, but I'll probably blacken them. I know this is not much progress to report. But, it is a solution to one issue on this model. I'm considering just leaving off the swivel guns since they'd need to look like this, but about half the size, and my understanding regarding swivel guns is that they were often stowed until needed. We'll see. First thing's first. Clare Edit: Forgot to mention that I went ahead and ordered the gun barrels from Chuck a couple days ago. Should be here tomorrow or Monday.
  13. catopower
    Kurt, Too late. My book is already signed and inscribed! He offers that on all orders through his website. But, buying the book at his table at the conference is a great way to get the book if you aren't already familiar with him and his work. Clare P.S. Here's a review from another source: http://www.oceannavigator.com/Web-Exclusives-2015/A-definitive-look-at-Japanese-Boatbuilding/ And some photos the author recently posted on Instagram: https://instagram.com/douglasbrooksboats
  14. catopower
    Hi Kurt, I figured that might be the case, though I wasn't sure how long he'd actually be staying at the conference. For people who can wait and will be at the conference, that's a great way to get the book since they get to meet the author, see the book, and then the inscription will have some meaning. Some of us just have to have it NOW, like me... Clare
  15. catopower
    Hi Richard, sorry I'm late showing up here. Didn't see your blog until today and you're already so close to being done! The lights are going to look great on this kit. I have one of the mini-yakatabune kits on the shelf and I'll have to check out that source for the LEDs you posted. Looks like a perfect solution. Your model is coming along beautifully – I think your daughter is going to be very happy with it. Clare
  16. catopower
    Well, regardless of the overall price in the end, I think this is a really wonderful thing. What other effort has made ship modeling visible to so many people all at once? I was blown away the first time I saw a TV ad for a ship model kit. Sure, a lot of people will start and never finish. That's also true about people who spend 100s of dollars on a kit, only to have it sit unfinished in the closet for all time. That's why there's so much unfinished stuff available on Ebay. But this way, at least you'll figure it out before you buy the whole thing. This is definitely a good thing. It's not for everyone, but I do like the expanded instructions as Ulises Victoria points out. That's one of the biggest complaints by Americans who buy European kits – limited instructions. Clare
  17. catopower
    This brand new book by American boatbuilder Douglas Brooks details his five apprenticeships with traditional craftsmen in Japan. I just received my copy today and wrote up a post about it on my blog. You can read it here: https://shipmodeler.wordpress.com/2015/08/19/japanese-wooden-boatbuilding-book-by-douglas-brooks/ The book is $75 plus $10 postage. If you do get a copy, I strongly urge you to buy it direct from the author to help support his research. In return, you'll get a book signed by the author and you can choose to have it inscribed if you like. Mr. Brooks is a scheduled speaker at this year's NRG Conference in Mystic, CT. Clare
  18. catopower
    mkmossop, nice job painting that emblem. I think that can be easier than iron on because after you do your sewing, you've already got the right colors matched to do your touchup. As JerryTodd points out sewing will be a little out of scale. But then, the printing is probably equally out of scale and I think the sewing stitches will look better. I personally like a tight stitch as it forms a solid line, like the seam of the cloth itself. Use a fine thread. When I have sewn, I'd sewn to the edge of the sail itself. I think I was initially sewing on past it, but then I had to take a needle and pull out the excess stitching back to the edge of the sail. I agree that adding the reef band and reinforcements can look really nice. It's at that point that I personally glue the fabric and do not sew. The extra layer of fabric is enough to give definition to the feature. Same with the bolt rope. The glued bolt rope looks nice, but a sewn bolt rope tends to stand out a lot more than a glued one. With sails, I think it becomes something of a matter of personal taste and use of artistic license. Clare
  19. catopower
    Hi Richard, The Mini-Yakatabune looks like a really nice kit. Personally, I haven't put a finish on these. I don't worry about dust because I put them into cases, and Hinoki is also naturally mildew resistant. If you check with Bob Riddoch, I think he's using some wipe-on poly on his Higakki Kaisen, giving the wood a nice darker color and sealing it too. Anyway, you really only get the smell of the wood when it's wet or freshly cut, so the completed model won't have that nice smell. If your daughter really loves the scent, you might just get her a small bottle of Hinoki Oil or some Hinoki Soap. Now that I say that, I may just have to get some myself! Clare
  20. catopower
    Hi Richard, Glad you like the saw. I feel a bit responsible for Kazunori at Zootoyz having ordered a stock of them after I asked him about carrying the product. They weren't selling very well at first and I expect it was mostly because nobody knew he had them. So, I had to "spread the gospel." The towel is something he recently started doing, including small gifts with each order. It's a nice touch. I got a towel with The Great Wave painting on it. Maybe they'll end up being like trading cards "Collect all 10!" Druxey, I love that you know the name of the artist and the actor in that painting. You never cease to amaze me! Clare
  21. catopower
    I realized that I hadn't posted any updates on HMS Alert (HM Cutter Alert) in some time. Also, I notice that I haven't posted an overall shot of the project. Time to remedy the situation. The project is still one of those "in the background" projects, as I've got other projects that have a much higher priority. I only work on the model in between other work, so it's slow progress. Most recent work on it includes working on the yards, boom and gaff. But, the big project was making the gun carriages. There are a dozen in all. Because of large amount of small detail pieces, I'd found that the laser cut add-on detail part set that I used for the gratings also had cannon carriages of about the same size. So, I used those to make mine. I've had to learn how to work with the laser-cut cardboard and still working on figuring out best practices. The laser-cut cardboard is a lot softer than the paper parts I build up using layers of printer paper, which is a lot denser in the end. So far, I've just found I have to be a lot more careful with the cardboard. But, it helps to hit with some CA so that it stiffens up. Makes it easier to cut. Now, I just have to decide what I want to do about the cannon barrels. I rolled them up, but they're so small, I managed to get them a little gluey and spoiled some of the pre-printing on them. I'll probably have to just paint them black. But, each barrel also has a round muzzle pieces and 3 round cascabel pieces. More really tiny round parts! One option has been to, at minimum, turn a master in brass and just cast them. I'd have to do the same with the swivels. Oh wait, I'd better get back to one of those priority projects! :0) In the meantime, here's a view of the model as it sits on my shelf awaiting the next steps... Clare
  22. catopower
    I was going to save Step 20 for next time, but I started to work on the translation to get it out of the way. Now, I might as well post it! 20 Assembly and Installation of the Rudder Support • Assemble the rudder support and attach to the rudder support pedestal. Center the crossbeam on the support posts. • Attach thin rigging line to rudder and wrap line around the rudder support crossbeam. Tie off using a clove hitch. • Install part 9C as per the cutaway view and full size plans. Note that a length of small rigging line needs to be secured to part 9C in such away that it forms a loop a maximum of 38mm long. This actually brings me up-to-date with where I'm at on the model today. Next steps involve the construction of the deck house and its details. Clare
  23. catopower
    Thanks George. Had to slow down a bit due to meetings and other commitments. Also have other projects people are waiting on. But, we're now on page 10 of a 16-page instruction book, so I've got to keep on moving. Also, I've got some ideas for the next Japanese boats display and planning to make some connections regarding that. I will need this model for that display too, so there's plenty of incentive to keep working on the Yakatabune. Step 19 is another pretty short one, now dealing with some of the stern assembly: 19 Assembly and Installation of the Rudder and Oar Receiver • Insert the rudder from the top of the rudder pedestal Inset: Assembling the Oar Receiver Make 2 pieces Cut piece of dowel, part #23, 4mm long Trim to a cone shape You can see the details of these parts in the photos of my last post. Clare
  24. catopower
    This may seem an even sillier questions, but why are you using "Pewter Black" on Brass, and expecting it to work? Maybe I missed some of the discussions on Jax and maybe it's supposed to work well on brass? Clare
  25. catopower
    She's looking beautiful, Bob! Nice job on the lattice work. Did you ever handle a more delicate piece of laser-cut wood? I was never so worried about breaking a wooden part before... Clare

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