Jump to content
Supplies of the Ship Modeler's Handbook are running out. Get your copy NOW before they are gone! Click on photo to order. ×

catopower

NRG Member
  • Posts

    1,794
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by catopower

  1. CaptGino, good luck on the Pinta model, it's a good looking kit. I hope you start a build log. Rick, thanks for the kind words. I'm plugging away at it. Hey, before you go wishing for an HMS Victory in what ShipYard calls their Laser Cardboard Series (boxed), have you seen HMS Mercury? The box is the same size as all the others, but it's packed. I took one to the NRG Conference and it definitely got some attention. Kind of pricey in relation to the other kits, but it's a fully laser cut kit in 1/72 scale and nearly a meter long. But, yeah, a 1/72-scale Shipyard HMS Victory model would rival Caldercraft's kit. That would be something to see. Clare
  2. Kurt, I never really considered that I could bring a small model in carry on. At minimum, since I'll be in the vendor room anyway and it's probably good advertising, maybe I'll bring my HMS Alert card model in progress. I think it'll be pretty safe. Jack, Druxey, I will be setting up in the Vendor room in the afternoon (it's a working conference for me). I have to check and see exactly when I get in, but the Vendor room set up closes at 6pm. So, should we meet up after that for a drink like Kurt suggested and see about who's up for going to dinner? Maybe 6:30? Clare
  3. Hi captgino, thanks for the kind words. I have been working on this for just about 2 months now, just kind of on the side though. So, I guess it has moved along pretty quickly. I'm finishing up the hull details and started on the deck furniture, so it's visually a little slower now, but still moving along faster than my wooden ship projects. You asked if the mats are included. If you meant masts, they are not included in this kit, but dowels can be obtained easily enough. There is actually a separate masting set available, as well as a sail kit and a blocks and deadeyes set, but all the needed parts are printed in the kit anyway. I went ahead and ordered the masting and the sails sets to check them out. The sails actually look pretty good, but I may just make my own using the kit plans as a guide. A good set of drawings of the sails is included – much better, I might add, than the sail plans in most wood ship kits I've seen. However, after making many parts now, and with plenty left to go, I decided to go ahead and order the blocks and deadeyes set. One could easily use wooden ones, like those sold by Chuck Passaro, but it's kind of cool keeping as much in paper as I can. The blocks set still saves me from all the cutting and much of the laminating. You just have to glue up the parts and paint them. The masting set and the sail set. Some boxes of paints I ordered from ShipYard are on the right. Close up detail of the sails set. Close up detail of laser cut parts in the masting set. Ordering direct from ShipYard, the cost for each set is pretty low. It is after all a 1/96-scale cutter, so not a lot to these. The prices are listed in Polish currency, but in dollars works out roughly as follows: HMS Alert Masting set $6.50 HMS Alert Sails set $6.50 HMS Alert Blocks and Deadeyes set $20.00 Shipping, of course, is extra, and adds a lot if you order things separately. But shipping small packages from ShipYard takes about 10-14 days to get and doesn't cost too much unless you start ordering multiple ship model kits or the boxed kits. Of course, if you get the larger 1/72-scale boxed edition, you get all this stuff included, plus brass cannons, paints, glue, and all the parts are laser cut. But you can get this 1/96-scale paper model kit, which includes laser cut frames, for less than $30, so it's very easy to get started. FYI, Ages of Sail, whom I've been helping out a bit, recently got in a big shipment of ShipYard kits. They don't carry the add-on sets, but have just about all the ship and lighthouse kits including all the boxed kits. Clare
  4. I did it. I started a build log on this model. It's just too cool to put aside and I spent the past couple nights adding gunport linings, hatch coamings and event starting shaping the mast. So, here's the build log: Naval Cutter HMS Alert, 1777 – 1/96 scale ShipYard Card Model - Kit Build Logs in Progress - Model Ship World Clare
  5. So, here's the model as it looks, planked, but no keel, stem or sternpost. The inner bulwarks is only test fit and not glued into place yet. I've just installed the shear molding under the gunports, laminated many of the parts to give them thickness. I also made the mast coat, hawse pipes, prepped some of the mast top hardware, began shaping the wooden dowel mast, and glued up the anchor stocks, but haven't been added yet. Parts are in the process of construction, so still look rough, particularly the round ones. Some deck hatches. The only thing I'm not super happy with is the gratings since they're only printed. I know I could just make scratch gratings from wood, but it would be nice to see how the final ship looks as built from the kit. View of the quarterdeck. I had a bit of a white gap at the bottom of the bulwarks and tried to even out the look with paint, but I got a little on the printed deck. After cleaning, I had to give the deck a wash of paint to even out the look. A view of the bow showing the friezes, wales, stem and bow planking. Note the horseshoe. The one on the other side tore when I cut it and it doesn't look as sharp. Close up of the bow planking. Everyone who’s seen this model is amazed at how sturdy a card hull can be, including me. The lapstraked planking really makes this model solid. I also get a lot of people asking me what kind of wood was used for the deck planking, right before they say “this is paper?” This being my first card model, I’ve learned to cut carefully and to soak parts with CA to make them stiffer and to make it easier to shape them and so that the edges don’t “fuzz up”. Plus, it makes it easier to cut very delicate pieces without them tearing up. I’ve also learned to cut out the hollow portions of parts before cutting the parts from the sheet. Clare
  6. Well, I’ve done it. I started messing around with a card model from Shipyard because I was really curious about them. I didn’t mean to turn this into a real project, but I can’t help it, this thing is so frikkin’ cool! I’ve already described the kit in detail in the topic I started: here, so no point in rehashing that. I’ll just say that I’ve been distracted by this model more and more and now I might as well just get it over with and make a regular project out of it. Luckily, this card model seems to be progressing a lot faster than my wooden model projects. I think it’s because all the parts are already defined. I don’t have to figure out anything, I just have to build. So, I started tinkering with this kit back in August and picked it up every now and again to add some more to it. Now, I’m at the point where I’m spending multiple evenings in a row on it. At this rate, I don’t think it’s going to take all that long. I'd better really get working on this or I'll never get back to my other projects! Here’s where it all started... Framing was easy using the laser cut parts included in the kit. Note that not all of the shipyard paper models include laser cut framing. Instead, they give you the parts printed on standard paper and you are required to laminate that paper onto layers of card stock or plain paper in order to build the part up to the proper thickness. On a model this size, the frame density and the stiffeners seem to make the hull enough to work with The first layer of the hull covering is made up of thin pieces that fit nicely across the bulkheads. It's hard to avoid a little overlap, but I found it important to try, otherwise it creates a wavy surface for the planking. With the layer of stiffners in place, the first layer of hull planking is laid. There are two layers of planking, so I guess you can consider this a double-planked hull. The first layer consist of belts of planks. It's nice that these are printed with properly shaped planks. This makes this model more accurate than 90% of the wooden ship models kits out there, at least in terms of hull planking. The first problem I ran into was the in determining the proper positioning of the bulwarks piece. But, that looks like it will work itself out okay. The second problem is shown here with the laying down of the planking belts. This is a 2-D object laying down on a 3-D surface. The belts are relatively narrow, but not narrow enough to avoid creating a wavy surface along the edges. Fortunately, there is another layer of planking to go over this, so maybe I was worrying about it too much. But, what I found was that after the glue set, I could wick a tiny amount of CA into the edge and then push down on the bumps to flatten them out a bit. That has it's own hazzards as you can see here the glue fingerprints that I haven't seen since my early days of plastic model building. This is the point where I decided to try painting the surface of the hull using paints sold by ShipYard. Clare
  7. That sounds great Kurt. I really hope to meet some MSW people there and hope more MSW members will take advantage of this opportunity to meet and learn. I only wish there were a way for me to bring a model. Flying in, I don't see how to do it. Although having a vendor table, I suppose it would be easy enough to bring a small work in progress as a "sample". If anyone wants to meet up for a drink on Thursday evening, I'd certainly be up for that. Druxey, good point! Also, it didn't really occur to me that I'll probably know people more by their screen names than by their real names. It's like we all have our combat-pilot call signs. Clare
  8. Hey, so I'm going to be at the conference this year, but who all is going? Any thoughts on the MSW contingent getting together on one of the evenings or something for a short get-together? I'm looking forward to meeting all my fellow NRG members, but it might be nice to just touch base with ones I see here online for once, gather for a group photo, and to meet and pay homage to our hard-working mods and admins. Clare
  9. Glad to help, Alaska. You know, I've been so fortunate to stumble across a couple really great buys here on MSW a moments after Chuck posted them. That's even how I got my copy of Le Gros Ventre. So, I feel like I have this big debt to pay and I'm happy to help where I can. Now, gotta get back to admiring Cpt Tom's build! Clare
  10. Hi Alaska, I think you're in luck. There are three new copies listed on Amazon for $50 - $55 plus shipping. Clare
  11. Wow, what a beautiful looking model and ship! But I have to admit to not understanding the whole reasoning behind building such a beautiful vessel, just so you can set fire to her. I would think you'd just find some old merchant ship and send her off to her doom (and the enemy's too, hopefully). Or was it considered so great a duty that the ship would be bestowed great honors before going to its death. I guess I'm going to have to buy the book to find out! Thanks Bob for releasing what looks like another fascinating title! Clare
  12. Hi Mitchell, I'm looking forward to your starting up on your Enterprise again. One question – I've seen the Shipyard kit and it doesn't come with pre-cut frames. You're model looks like it has laser cut frames. Did your kit come from GPM by any chance? I see they sell a separate frames and detail parts set for the Shipyard Enterprize kit, as well as ones for some other kits. Just curious if that's what you got? Clare
  13. Hi Mercator, Mark's right about Ages of Sail. The triangular deadeyes are walnut, but only come in 5mm and 7mm sizes. If you're willing to go with britannia metal ones, Bluejacket has them in 1/8", which is just over 3mm. Clare
  14. Hi Slog, Thanks for the kind words. I agree that GPM is a good provider of Shipyard and other items. I did notice though that they don't carry a large number of Shipyard kits. But, they seem to carry what look to be older Shipyard kits that aren't available direct from Shipyard anymore like La Belle Poule, HMS Cleopatra and a few others too. But, what I really like is that they make laser cut frame and detail sets for several Shipyard models that don't already come with them. I wasn't sure how accurately these would fit the Shipyard kits until I noticed the GPM markings on some laser cut stuff I bought from Shipyard, and the GPM ads in the Shipyard kits. I ended up getting a super detail set from GPM for the Shipyard 1/72 scale Santa Leocadia model – actually for the Super Modellar Plan set which includes laser cut frames. Anyway, I agree, GPM has great stuff. Hi Mitchel, "Scratch that itch!" I'm looking forward to seeing more posts from you on your model. Card models are really fun, but they certainly aren't easy, are they? My models small size might make it easier to handle without damage than a larger model. I've been careful with it, but also very lucky. Clare
  15. Hi Slog, I'm sure you'll find a way around that panel 8 issue. Your build looks great. I've been working on my little cutter model and never before considered modeling a 20th century steel hull ship. I may have to consider it now, seeing your build. I really like your model a lot and I'll be watching for your updates. Clare
  16. Thanks, David. A contact number for Poland? There should be something on the back of the kit cover... Here's what's I found: URL: www.model-shipyard.com email: vessel@model-vessel.com tel. (0-61) 88 34 275 tel. kom +48 508 539 646 I don't know what the different "tel." numbers are, but that's what's on the cover. Clare
  17. Thanks for the sage advice David. I don't believe that's the issue in this particular case, but it's certainly a point well taken. I'm curious if anyone has ever tried to use the pre-printed planks to aid in the building of wooden models? As far as I can tell, most of these kits don't include individual planks, but the Shipyard Alert kit does, and so does their Le Coureur kit. For the wood ship modeler, these kits seem to be excellent at illustrating the proper shape of hull planking as well as the joggling of deck planks into the margin strakes. Anyway, I'm discovering that card models are not easy, but they are fun. Here are some pics of the model just before I added the keel and glued the bulwarks into place. I'm learning that paint really does cover a multitude of sins and works very well on this model! Clare
  18. Hey Bob, Congratulations! You've passed the half-way mark, at least as far as the step numbers in the instructions go. Time to celebrate with some Sake? I really like the way the wipe on poly looks on your model, particularly on the thin, colored wood. It's all looking really nice. But, you're making want to build another Woody Joe kit now... Clare
  19. Hi Ken, I'm going through basically the same thing as you. I have a model of a colonial schooner and I'm working on my rigging/belaying plan. Hahn's drawings aren't much help except for the overall rigging plan and his book The Colonial Schooner basically is just a place to find those drawings. I found little else of use in it regarding rigging. I wouldn't trust Petersson's book either – very specific craft and periods. But, as Russ and Greg have said, the Sultana should be a good guide. I have the Model Shipways' plans and they look pretty reasonable since both my schooner and the Sultana belay lines to shroud cleats, mast cleats, timberheads and a few to cross bitts. The Hannah should pretty much be the same and it's of the right period, right type, similar size. Clare
  20. This is a great discussion and I am enjoying following everyone's posts immensely. While I'm kind of an advocate of the old solid hull kits, I had to "like" Brian C's post because it's honest and I think it adds a lot to this discussion. Plus, I agree, it is a shortcut. But, like neptune (John) points out, so are all kits, really. Still, I think there need to be some kits that are more shortcut than others. Anyway, the degree of shortcut depends a lot on the quality of the solid hull and availability of good plans/templates. Some kit manufacturer's hulls are less shortcut than others and can require a lot of carving and sanding to finish/correct, while others may require very little. So, I wouldn't say that all solid hull modeling is harder or easier than plank-on-bulkhead. It can be harder or it can be easier depending on what level of perfection you want and that's what I like about them. I like to see solid hull kits remain on the market through BlueJacket, Model Shipways, A.J. Fisher (still around), and even Amati (1/80-scale J-Boats kits with pre-carved hulls). Clare
  21. Beautiful work Bob! For me, planking the deck seemed to take forever. I guess it had to do with cutting all those short pieces and also making the supporting beams and making sure the planking panels all fit nicely. Like I said, you've done a beautiful job. Clare
  22. Pete, your models are truly awe inspiring, and I particularly love your solid hull work. This topic wouldn't have been complete without your input! Clare
  23. Andy, beautiful work you've done and congratulations! Hey, on those portraits, now which one is you and which is the original? Clare
  24. I've built several solid hull models, some from kits and some scratch. Personally, solid hull is still my preferred form of scratch building. Solid hull kits have the beauty of construction flexibility. A beginner can take a solid hull kit and do almost nothing to fix up the shape of the hull (depends a bit on the manufacturer) and build a nice looking model. A more advanced modeler can take a solid hull and fine-tune the shape to build an accurate model. As pointed out, one can plank over the solid hull, which provides a solid foundation for the planking. Going a step farther, a solid hull can be carved down to accommodate the planking more accurately (the thickness of the planks do change the dimensions of the hull slightly). Solid hull kits avoid some of the pitfalls of plank-on-bulkhead modeling since you don't have to worry about shaping planks unless you choose to plank over it, and you're less likely to end up with bumps and flat spots, which can often appear on plank-on-bulkhead kits if you're not careful. It's true that I've seen some people be a bit disrespectful regarding solid hulls, but not really here. But it did take me a lot of work on another forum to convince them to go beyond listing model categories as: Plank-on-Frame, Plank-on-Bulkhead and Other Models. But, there's a lot of "solid" support here (pun intended). Well, all of this is to say, build your model and enjoy it. I hope you start a build log and post photos of your progress. Clare
  25. Well said Don! I haven't started a build log because I was just experimenting with one of the smaller Shipyard kits. I wanted to find out what it was like to work in paper and I had no ties to finishing it, so I didn't want people to be following something I wasn't necessarily going to complete. However, it's actually turning out to be so much fun and such a nice build that I'm now thinking I may continue with it and turn it into a build. I will decide soon and I would say the 1:96-scale kit can be just about as nice as the 1:72-scale kit. You just have to do a lot more gluing and cutting. And, of course, everything is smaller. Stay tuned if you're interested. In the meantime, I started a write-up/discussion about the kit here: Shipyard H.M.S. Alert, 1777, 1:96-scale Paper Model kit Thanks, Clare
×
×
  • Create New...