Dziadeczek

My Chapter 10 posts were too long, I won’t take the time to do that much again.
 
The quarterdeck is pretty much the last “big” thing to do, starting with planking and ending with rails. It’s been such a journey from the first framing, through months of planking and the many detailed components assemblies since. Not sure I want it to end.
 
To keep it short, here are just four final photos of the quarterdeck.




 

1582675905_1485165543-bb564-cutty-sark-main-plan.pdf (modelexpo-online.com)
1582675905_1551258603564-cutty-sark-vejl-040119.pdf (modelexpo-online.com)

1582675905_1485165543-bb564-cutty-sark-main-plan.pdf (modelexpo-online.com)
1582675905_1551258603564-cutty-sark-vejl-040119.pdf (modelexpo-online.com)

Thank you all for your input. After some thinking, I decided to go with a silver-enriched solder wire I obtained long time ago from Home Depot. I don't think it is called Stay Brite, but I forgot its exact name.
I remember that it can be applied either with a soldering gun or with a torch and it is significantly stronger than regular 50-50 or 60-40 wire. I have a tiny soldering pen that gives me a lot more control than a mini torch, so I've been able to resolder those broken joints with this wire and give it a bit thicker joint (previously I was filing off extra thickness of solder to make it as thin as the brass rings. That turned out to be too thin and week). 
The joints will be covered with a rubbing pounch anyway, so they will be invisible.
The solder joints don't get as black as the brass with Birchwood Casey, so I use just for these spots a different blackener - used for stained glass work, which seems to work there somewhat better.
Thanks again Everybody!!!    🙂

I removed and redid the two lower cheeks: a friend and great modeller pointed out to me their incorrect positioning, which diverged too much from the upper cheek!
Sometimes the most obvious mistakes are right under your nose but you can't see them!
 





 

Flag installed.

This completes the model (!!!!!!).

Now my attention turns to finalizing the display starting with the cradle.  I would like to do this in mahogany to match the base board.  Let's see how it comes out.  Worst case scenario- I am unable to improve on what I have, in which case, I will paint the current cradle black.  We shall see.  More posts to come.

Finished the jackstaff using finer tube and bracing wire, bit more to scale when you compare to photos of ship. 👍 even got the chrysanthemum painted and fitted, it’s now a Japanese warship 😂  finally l am trying to add small chain for securing the anchors, 42 links to the inch smallest l could find so kind of works 50 links to inch would be better if you can find it ? This is a lot more fiddly than l was expecting, worth it ? Done one and dragging my feet to do the other two. That’s me for the moment, shall push myself forward 🤛

Sandpaper too coarse?

Sandpaper too coarse?

The boat placed on a stand...


...and bound...
 



 

Sandpaper too coarse?

Hello,
the carpenters started with planking the QD. Here first the balcony and the parquet in the great cabin for the captain. At that time only the great cabin had a parquet. 





And here the painter has oiled the floor

Don't thread it into the chuck all the way! Just loosely place it there and tap it.

Another part of decoration on the balconies added. It is slowly filling up😉
 
Jan

THANKS.  😀   Yes, I did it.  (The pic I attached is now, sort of, old...)
The more current state of affairs is here (entry # 60) + recently I attached all 5 anchors as well.
 

I know, I bought that brochure from Ancre. But, it was only AFTER I drew the remaining frames by myself, so, for me it was like a proverbial  "mustard after dinner".
You are right, my model is in 1:48 scale. I intend to build it fully masted and rigged, with sails, if my endurance will permit.
Whether it is built strictly in Admiralty style or not, is of less importance to me. I used this name remembering all those models with unplanked lower hulls and partially planked decks. OK, perhaps the better name is - a Navy Board ship model! It is some kind of hybrid, I think.
What I wanted to show here  is the way I built it - in the H. Hahn's method, upside down, mounted in a flat base board, with those extensions of frames (later on to be cut off). Yes, that way is a lot more wasteful of wood than shaping individual futtocks and faying them together and assembling the hull right-side up. But, at that time I was less experienced and fell that the Hahn's method was better suited for me. I also used American walnut for frames (which I wouldn't do today). Some fruitwood would be better...
Overall, my model represents largely my own artistic license and not necessarily some rigid convention, Admiralty or Navy Board, or such... The principal reason for my build was to learn all those intricacies of historic ship building practices - in this case French ones. Just reading Boudriot's books was very educational, but later on building a model after them, was an entirely different quality...     😄
 
Best regards,
 
Thomas

Years ago I built my French 74 gun ship upside down, mounted in H. Hahn's building base, following his method (sort of). I remember, I had to add (draw) the remaining frames, since J. Boudriot only has shown in his books the so called, station frames. The hull turned out OK, not perfect though, but - for the first scratch built, Admiralty type model, - acceptable.
Right now I am starting to install the running rigging on it.
Thomas

For the modeling purposes, you do not need such a complicated machine, like this one on your pics. Unless you intend to go industrial, a simple ropewalk based on three (or four) hooked spindles, manually powered or by a small DC motor, will suffice. It doesn't matter, whether your device has two spinning ends (like, for instance, the Frolich's design) or just one, the end result will be similar. I remember someone complained, that the co called, continuous ropewalk tends to give some problems with tensioning individual threads and the results are more unpredictable. 
I have this simple ropewalk I made many years ago and it still goes strong and is foolproof. (post # 20)
 
I think that the quality of your rope will depend more on the quality of thread you use. Cotton threads, like the French DMC (now defunct), or German Anchor, or even Lizbeth (I had good experience with the last one), will result in good looking rope. Choose appropriate thickness and color of your thread, so that you don't need to tint your rope afterwards. After you obtain your rope, you need to stretch it, because cotton will be a little "rubbery", elastic.
If you use Lizbeth thread, it already comes factory pre singed, with the "fuzz" burnt out. And it is Egyptian cotton - the best!
 
If you use polyester threads, be careful, because those ropes tend to spontaneously unravel after you cut the ends.
 
In any case, this topic was already asked here numerous times, so check out the archives for the best design of your ropewalk.
 
BTW, what's wrong with your Domanoff's ropewalk, anyway?   Just curious...

For the modeling purposes, you do not need such a complicated machine, like this one on your pics. Unless you intend to go industrial, a simple ropewalk based on three (or four) hooked spindles, manually powered or by a small DC motor, will suffice. It doesn't matter, whether your device has two spinning ends (like, for instance, the Frolich's design) or just one, the end result will be similar. I remember someone complained, that the co called, continuous ropewalk tends to give some problems with tensioning individual threads and the results are more unpredictable. 
I have this simple ropewalk I made many years ago and it still goes strong and is foolproof. (post # 20)
 
I think that the quality of your rope will depend more on the quality of thread you use. Cotton threads, like the French DMC (now defunct), or German Anchor, or even Lizbeth (I had good experience with the last one), will result in good looking rope. Choose appropriate thickness and color of your thread, so that you don't need to tint your rope afterwards. After you obtain your rope, you need to stretch it, because cotton will be a little "rubbery", elastic.
If you use Lizbeth thread, it already comes factory pre singed, with the "fuzz" burnt out. And it is Egyptian cotton - the best!
 
If you use polyester threads, be careful, because those ropes tend to spontaneously unravel after you cut the ends.
 
In any case, this topic was already asked here numerous times, so check out the archives for the best design of your ropewalk.
 
BTW, what's wrong with your Domanoff's ropewalk, anyway?   Just curious...

For the modeling purposes, you do not need such a complicated machine, like this one on your pics. Unless you intend to go industrial, a simple ropewalk based on three (or four) hooked spindles, manually powered or by a small DC motor, will suffice. It doesn't matter, whether your device has two spinning ends (like, for instance, the Frolich's design) or just one, the end result will be similar. I remember someone complained, that the co called, continuous ropewalk tends to give some problems with tensioning individual threads and the results are more unpredictable. 
I have this simple ropewalk I made many years ago and it still goes strong and is foolproof. (post # 20)
 
I think that the quality of your rope will depend more on the quality of thread you use. Cotton threads, like the French DMC (now defunct), or German Anchor, or even Lizbeth (I had good experience with the last one), will result in good looking rope. Choose appropriate thickness and color of your thread, so that you don't need to tint your rope afterwards. After you obtain your rope, you need to stretch it, because cotton will be a little "rubbery", elastic.
If you use Lizbeth thread, it already comes factory pre singed, with the "fuzz" burnt out. And it is Egyptian cotton - the best!
 
If you use polyester threads, be careful, because those ropes tend to spontaneously unravel after you cut the ends.
 
In any case, this topic was already asked here numerous times, so check out the archives for the best design of your ropewalk.
 
BTW, what's wrong with your Domanoff's ropewalk, anyway?   Just curious...

I have this type of a ropewalk I built long time ago. I use it all the time and it never fails me. It is simple to build and to operate. It is powered by a small 12 Volt DC reversible motor. To avoid constantly moving from center to center to check and correct (if necessary) the process, I have a cable (~15 ft.) connected to a remote trigger push button.
One other difference I employed, is the double fishing line stretched between centers, a cone is travelling (sliding) on. This allows me to twist quite long ropes, at least ~ 25-30 feet, If I need those.  Also, the distance between centers can be adjusted gradually by winding the excess of this fishing line rails onto a spool behind the static center, unlike the version with a cart and fixed length rails on which it travels (I assume, the idea borrowed from model railroading).

For the modeling purposes, you do not need such a complicated machine, like this one on your pics. Unless you intend to go industrial, a simple ropewalk based on three (or four) hooked spindles, manually powered or by a small DC motor, will suffice. It doesn't matter, whether your device has two spinning ends (like, for instance, the Frolich's design) or just one, the end result will be similar. I remember someone complained, that the co called, continuous ropewalk tends to give some problems with tensioning individual threads and the results are more unpredictable. 
I have this simple ropewalk I made many years ago and it still goes strong and is foolproof. (post # 20)
 
I think that the quality of your rope will depend more on the quality of thread you use. Cotton threads, like the French DMC (now defunct), or German Anchor, or even Lizbeth (I had good experience with the last one), will result in good looking rope. Choose appropriate thickness and color of your thread, so that you don't need to tint your rope afterwards. After you obtain your rope, you need to stretch it, because cotton will be a little "rubbery", elastic.
If you use Lizbeth thread, it already comes factory pre singed, with the "fuzz" burnt out. And it is Egyptian cotton - the best!
 
If you use polyester threads, be careful, because those ropes tend to spontaneously unravel after you cut the ends.
 
In any case, this topic was already asked here numerous times, so check out the archives for the best design of your ropewalk.
 
BTW, what's wrong with your Domanoff's ropewalk, anyway?   Just curious...