Dziadeczek

Awesome!!!
What scale is the lion in? (Judging by the size of your hand holding it, I am guessing it might be in 1:24 or even 1:12...) Wow!  👍

@giampieroricci
@Nunnehi (Don)
Thank you very much for your interest in my work and the kind words.
I would also like to thank you all for the many LIKES.
 
A happy new year 2024 to all.
 
Continuation: Equipping the mizzen topsail yard - Vergue de perroquet de fouge
The last of La Créole's topsail yards, the mizzen topsail yard, has now also been fitted with a jackstay and lashed in the middle.

 
The next step was to make and attach the footropes with a rope ø 22 mm (model scale ø 0.46 mm). Due to the relatively short spans, one stirrup for each half of the mizzen topsail yard seemed sufficient. 
The next step was to make the strops for the yard tackles, which will later be attached to the yardarms. 

The next picture shows detailed sections of the rigging elements already mentioned. A comparison with a stirrup for the main yard is also shown.

 
The following picture shows the finished blocks (each 3.5 mm long) for the braces and the leech lines. As with the other yards, the blocks were attached directly to the yard strops using ø 1.4 mm thimbles ("dog and bitch" connection). 

 
I continued with the strops for the lower blocks of the clew lines (l = 3.5 mm) and making the toggles to connect them to the sheets.


Last but not least, a picture of the current state of the mizzen topsail yard.

 
Finally, the clew lines, the reef tackles and the sheets are still missing for the final outfitting of the mizzen topsail yard.
 
See you soon ...
 

Thanks Tobias but I can assure you that this build is far from perfect mate.  I'm constantly having to make allowances for earlier errors but I guess thats ship building for you.
 
The scuppers - The technique that druxey suggested to me works great for finding the line through the hull.  On this scale though it's a long way through the hull to make each side meet.  I guess you just have to be brave and get cracking with a chisel.  So first of all I cut the holes through as best that I could - I did pick up a little damage but nothing really to worry about.  I've also learnt that these small errors disappear in the long run as you simply stop seeing them.
 

Next I made a rectangular tube out of pewter - easy to make and difficult to fit through the hull - it just takes time.

Then I roughed the tube to the correct dimensions but left some on to sand down later.  Its worth noting that that the tube dimensions are slightly different from the outside to the inside.

Following on from my previous bad experience using cyano I glued these in using 20 minute epoxy resin.  I really like this glue - it gives loads of time to jiggle things around and cleans up easily with IPA.

Next was to make the end plates on the inside and outside.




So thats one side complete and now onto the starboard side - which I still haven't finished nailing yet!
 
Cheers Mark

Thanks @flying_dutchman2 and @Baker.
 
My son just sent his photographic interpretation of my pinas-wreck:

Hope you like it as much as I do...

Hallo Modellbaufreunde.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 

Work continues. Before finishing the bracing for the cabane struts, I needed to make the Lewis gun mount. The mount is made from bits of styrene rod. You can see it's located in a bit of a tight spot.
 

 
While I waited for bits of glue and paint on the gun mount to dry, I built up the propeller, using the optional parts intended to add depth.
 

 
With the gun mount in place, I could then finish off the cabane strut bracing.
 

 
I'm now working on the inter-wing bracing, which is six lines per side -- pics to come later.
 
 

I don't know about Spanish frigates, but this is the situation on the "Surprise" in San Diego.

I don't know about Spanish frigates, but this is the situation on the "Surprise" in San Diego.

I am not sure about the availability of the Byrnes's saw anymore, since Jim's passing.
I personally don't own his saw, I have a Proxxon saw (which is OK for my purposes), but I think that the quality of the machines you mentioned goes in reverse to your sequence, the best is Jim's saw, than goes the Proxxon and the Microlux (which I was told, is basicaly a Proxxon, but with a different motor, slightly weaker one).
Also, you should remember, that Jim's saw can only do a right angle cuts, while the Proxxon can do angled cuts as well as 90 degs cuts - you can tip the blade. For shipmodeling, this feature is not used frequently, but when you need it, YOU NEED IT!
I am sure, others will add their opinions to mine and perhaps contradict me a bit as well... That's the beauty of this forum!   😀

I don't know about Spanish frigates, but this is the situation on the "Surprise" in San Diego.

I am not sure about the availability of the Byrnes's saw anymore, since Jim's passing.
I personally don't own his saw, I have a Proxxon saw (which is OK for my purposes), but I think that the quality of the machines you mentioned goes in reverse to your sequence, the best is Jim's saw, than goes the Proxxon and the Microlux (which I was told, is basicaly a Proxxon, but with a different motor, slightly weaker one).
Also, you should remember, that Jim's saw can only do a right angle cuts, while the Proxxon can do angled cuts as well as 90 degs cuts - you can tip the blade. For shipmodeling, this feature is not used frequently, but when you need it, YOU NEED IT!
I am sure, others will add their opinions to mine and perhaps contradict me a bit as well... That's the beauty of this forum!   😀

I am not sure about the availability of the Byrnes's saw anymore, since Jim's passing.
I personally don't own his saw, I have a Proxxon saw (which is OK for my purposes), but I think that the quality of the machines you mentioned goes in reverse to your sequence, the best is Jim's saw, than goes the Proxxon and the Microlux (which I was told, is basicaly a Proxxon, but with a different motor, slightly weaker one).
Also, you should remember, that Jim's saw can only do a right angle cuts, while the Proxxon can do angled cuts as well as 90 degs cuts - you can tip the blade. For shipmodeling, this feature is not used frequently, but when you need it, YOU NEED IT!
I am sure, others will add their opinions to mine and perhaps contradict me a bit as well... That's the beauty of this forum!   😀

I am not sure about the availability of the Byrnes's saw anymore, since Jim's passing.
I personally don't own his saw, I have a Proxxon saw (which is OK for my purposes), but I think that the quality of the machines you mentioned goes in reverse to your sequence, the best is Jim's saw, than goes the Proxxon and the Microlux (which I was told, is basicaly a Proxxon, but with a different motor, slightly weaker one).
Also, you should remember, that Jim's saw can only do a right angle cuts, while the Proxxon can do angled cuts as well as 90 degs cuts - you can tip the blade. For shipmodeling, this feature is not used frequently, but when you need it, YOU NEED IT!
I am sure, others will add their opinions to mine and perhaps contradict me a bit as well... That's the beauty of this forum!   😀

@Vladimir_Wairoa
Hi,
thank you very much for your kind words.
 
Continuation: Equipment of the Fore topsail yard – quarter blocks / Poulies d'ecoute et Poulies de cargue point
As with the fore topsail yard, the clew lines and sheets each run over a double block, also known as a quarter block.
Here too, I attached these double blocks using rose lashing.
As I pointed out some time ago, I made a suitable tool that makes creating a rose lashing easier.
I saw this and copied it from our model builder colleague. I don't want to adorn myself with other people's feathers here...
 
Fastening the quarter blocks was followed by pulling in the rope at the jackstay, which was attached to a thimble using a simple eye splice, as can be seen in the following picture.


 
And last but not least, the result of this work section.

 
Sequel follows …

Other activities are taking a fair bit of my time, so this post will be primarily photos.
 
The first two strakes in place. All the planks are spiled and laser-cut and only clean up of the char was needed.

The boat is generally clinker-built, except for the two upper strakes which are carvel. There is one strake which abuts the nextmost upper strake in carvel fashion, but overlaps the strake below in clinker fashion. As there was no guidance as to how much overlap was required, I decided to work down from the top and add this hybrid strake last. There was a risk otherwise of the topmost strake being either too high or too low against the frames. This photo shows the topmost strake in place.

The planking complete.



 
Some minor trimming of the notches in the frames was occasionally necessary. Of more concern though, the upper planks were all slightly short, and short (a few mm) lengths of suitable scrap had to be inserted to close the gaps against the stern post. These aren't obvious from normal viewing distance. It's possible that I didn't fair the frames enough.
 
The parts for the fore and aft decks; parts 47 an 48 have their numbers transposed though this was obvious enough.

The thwarts and decks added to the hull.

 

Cheers.

For brass strips I use a guillotine (like the one used for photography). I cut them from a larger brass sheet, I obtained earlier for photoetching, and have some left over.

For brass strips I use a guillotine (like the one used for photography). I cut them from a larger brass sheet, I obtained earlier for photoetching, and have some left over.

If you are asking about traditional rigging tools, it is easy to make your own, using a couple of large needles and fixing them into wooden dowels, or even a couple of handles from old brushes. See the attachment.
I am just in the middle of rigging of my French 74 gun ship model (1:48), [geez, what a pain!   😬], and constantly using my three DIY rigging tools - I find them indispensable!

Some time ago I took this pic of my (unfinished) model of the Rattlesnake, using focus stacking and Photoshop. It works.

I redid the columns, I did not like and added small friezes:
 

Hallo.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
  
 

 

 

 
 

I have this type of a ropewalk I built long time ago. I use it all the time and it never fails me. It is simple to build and to operate. It is powered by a small 12 Volt DC reversible motor. To avoid constantly moving from center to center to check and correct (if necessary) the process, I have a cable (~15 ft.) connected to a remote trigger push button.
One other difference I employed, is the double fishing line stretched between centers, a cone is travelling (sliding) on. This allows me to twist quite long ropes, at least ~ 25-30 feet, If I need those.  Also, the distance between centers can be adjusted gradually by winding the excess of this fishing line rails onto a spool behind the static center, unlike the version with a cart and fixed length rails on which it travels (I assume, the idea borrowed from model railroading).

Good news: Finished Volume 1. Two more volumes: Good Grief!