Bob Cleek

A half liter Gflex kit should be more than sufficient for a single coat on that model, but perhaps not for two. To be on the safe side, I'd get a liter, although, if you run out, there's no problem applying more to what you didn't have enough to cover, although coats are best connected within a couple of days to ensure a molecular, rather than a simply mechanical bond between the two. (This is especially true of CPES epoxy sealer. Read Smith's instructions.)  The catalyst and resin have very long shelf lives, so you can always put any leftovers to good use. Mix it in small batches and use a flat surface to mix it.  I use a shallow tray lined with tinfoil. When the job is done, I simply discard the tinfoil. Beware of exothermic reactions. These cause a batch of epoxy to "cook off" when the heat generated from the chemical reaction of the mass of mixed catalyst and resin begins to accelerate the curing process and the process runs out of control, getting hotter and hotter until it starts flaming. A flat mixing container spreads out the surface area of the epoxy mixture and permits it to dissipate heat. Fill a paper cup full of the stuff and you can have problems.
 
You can mix some additives together without any problems and not others, but those you can are relatively obvious, like a thickener with a color additive. Always refer to the WEST System instruction manuals which are online. They will provide instructions on everything you could ever want to know about WEST products: Epoxy Instruction Manuals - WEST SYSTEM Epoxy Check to see if there are any contraindications to mixing the additives you are intending to use together. I'd be inclined to apply the two you mention separately, the fairing additive first, and then the barrier coat. Barrier coat goes on fairly smooth and is hard to sand. Fairing additive sands like butter, but if applied in a "peanut butter" consistency, it won't be smooth and will require sanding to fair it. Mixing the two isn't likely to produce a "waterproof easily sanded" surface. I'd be more inclined to expect you'd get a harder-to-sand surface that wasn't waterproof. But, again, check the manuals.
 
I'm not completely familiar with the installation procedures for your kortz nozzle, but I would say it would be best to fair and coat your hull before installing the nozzle because 1. epoxying and sanding is a messy business and working around the nozzle would be a huge pain, if possible at all, and 2) the fairing and coating process will add thickness to the surface of the hull and yield the final dimensions to which the nozzle will have to be fitted.
 
Good luck with it!  And again, consult the WEST System manuals on line! Don't guess. Using epoxy coatings can be mastered by anyone who knows how to follow "cookbook" instructions, but if one ignores the instructions, it can quickly turn you into a "mad scientist" with an out-of-control experiment.
 
I'll also add that you should probably "start small" and get the feel of the stuff as you go along. Mix a small single "pump" batch and apply it on a piece of scrap wood and let it cure, Sand that and apply your barrier coat and see how that works out on the test piece. Don't use your hull to learn on. When you are comfortable, mix no more epoxy than you can use before it starts to cure too much. You can always mix more as you need it, but if you mix a big batch and it "cooks off" before you're done working with it, that epoxy is wasted and the stuff isn't cheap, as you know.
 
 

A half liter Gflex kit should be more than sufficient for a single coat on that model, but perhaps not for two. To be on the safe side, I'd get a liter, although, if you run out, there's no problem applying more to what you didn't have enough to cover, although coats are best connected within a couple of days to ensure a molecular, rather than a simply mechanical bond between the two. (This is especially true of CPES epoxy sealer. Read Smith's instructions.)  The catalyst and resin have very long shelf lives, so you can always put any leftovers to good use. Mix it in small batches and use a flat surface to mix it.  I use a shallow tray lined with tinfoil. When the job is done, I simply discard the tinfoil. Beware of exothermic reactions. These cause a batch of epoxy to "cook off" when the heat generated from the chemical reaction of the mass of mixed catalyst and resin begins to accelerate the curing process and the process runs out of control, getting hotter and hotter until it starts flaming. A flat mixing container spreads out the surface area of the epoxy mixture and permits it to dissipate heat. Fill a paper cup full of the stuff and you can have problems.
 
You can mix some additives together without any problems and not others, but those you can are relatively obvious, like a thickener with a color additive. Always refer to the WEST System instruction manuals which are online. They will provide instructions on everything you could ever want to know about WEST products: Epoxy Instruction Manuals - WEST SYSTEM Epoxy Check to see if there are any contraindications to mixing the additives you are intending to use together. I'd be inclined to apply the two you mention separately, the fairing additive first, and then the barrier coat. Barrier coat goes on fairly smooth and is hard to sand. Fairing additive sands like butter, but if applied in a "peanut butter" consistency, it won't be smooth and will require sanding to fair it. Mixing the two isn't likely to produce a "waterproof easily sanded" surface. I'd be more inclined to expect you'd get a harder-to-sand surface that wasn't waterproof. But, again, check the manuals.
 
I'm not completely familiar with the installation procedures for your kortz nozzle, but I would say it would be best to fair and coat your hull before installing the nozzle because 1. epoxying and sanding is a messy business and working around the nozzle would be a huge pain, if possible at all, and 2) the fairing and coating process will add thickness to the surface of the hull and yield the final dimensions to which the nozzle will have to be fitted.
 
Good luck with it!  And again, consult the WEST System manuals on line! Don't guess. Using epoxy coatings can be mastered by anyone who knows how to follow "cookbook" instructions, but if one ignores the instructions, it can quickly turn you into a "mad scientist" with an out-of-control experiment.
 
I'll also add that you should probably "start small" and get the feel of the stuff as you go along. Mix a small single "pump" batch and apply it on a piece of scrap wood and let it cure, Sand that and apply your barrier coat and see how that works out on the test piece. Don't use your hull to learn on. When you are comfortable, mix no more epoxy than you can use before it starts to cure too much. You can always mix more as you need it, but if you mix a big batch and it "cooks off" before you're done working with it, that epoxy is wasted and the stuff isn't cheap, as you know.
 
 

You'll probably be just fine. A good finish on  the exterior should prevent leakage. 

i doubt they will rust if they are sealed as described. The major risk with iron fastenings in a model boat that is going to be used in the water is that any crack, however small, is a way for a wooden hull to soak up moisture, and especially water, like a sponge. Then, the iron nails may well start to rust and the wooden hull can start to rot. That said, if they are only wet occasionally and stored where they can dry out, my guess is the nails will do okay.]
 
It's unfortunate they are there, but we've all done similar things along the may in our modeling journeys. The biggest problem I see is that the nail heads may interfere with your sanding the hull fair. I doubt you can drive them much more with a countersink punch without splitting your frame, either. It's your call, surely, but you wouldn't be the first guy to undo and redo something that didn't work out on the first go-round. BTW, I'm curious. Did the Billings' instructions say that the planks were supposed to be nailed to the frames?

... which was the most practical posture, given that they often put their chest into it to push the bar. Oddly, though, the  contemporary pictorial record frequently depicts seamen carelessly pushing the bars with their hands. Perhaps this was a casual approach used to take up a slack cable before the real work began. 
 
The guy on the right in the black cap is definitely a slacker, but then again, there's nothing on the drum!

 
The men to the left are doing it right. The men to the right aren't. Likely "artistic license" in this engraving.

 
It seems the Finnish Navy did things differently, but there doesn't appear to be anything on the drum in this apparently posed photo. I mean, really, who mans a capstan in their dress blues?

 
Doing it right, but again, everybody's in their Class A's and this steam screw vessel appears underway at sea with white-painted anchor chain secured, clean and Bristol fashion, so what are they hauling, anyway?

 
 
Germans, correctly putting their backs into it like they actually might be doing some real work.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A half liter Gflex kit should be more than sufficient for a single coat on that model, but perhaps not for two. To be on the safe side, I'd get a liter, although, if you run out, there's no problem applying more to what you didn't have enough to cover, although coats are best connected within a couple of days to ensure a molecular, rather than a simply mechanical bond between the two. (This is especially true of CPES epoxy sealer. Read Smith's instructions.)  The catalyst and resin have very long shelf lives, so you can always put any leftovers to good use. Mix it in small batches and use a flat surface to mix it.  I use a shallow tray lined with tinfoil. When the job is done, I simply discard the tinfoil. Beware of exothermic reactions. These cause a batch of epoxy to "cook off" when the heat generated from the chemical reaction of the mass of mixed catalyst and resin begins to accelerate the curing process and the process runs out of control, getting hotter and hotter until it starts flaming. A flat mixing container spreads out the surface area of the epoxy mixture and permits it to dissipate heat. Fill a paper cup full of the stuff and you can have problems.
 
You can mix some additives together without any problems and not others, but those you can are relatively obvious, like a thickener with a color additive. Always refer to the WEST System instruction manuals which are online. They will provide instructions on everything you could ever want to know about WEST products: Epoxy Instruction Manuals - WEST SYSTEM Epoxy Check to see if there are any contraindications to mixing the additives you are intending to use together. I'd be inclined to apply the two you mention separately, the fairing additive first, and then the barrier coat. Barrier coat goes on fairly smooth and is hard to sand. Fairing additive sands like butter, but if applied in a "peanut butter" consistency, it won't be smooth and will require sanding to fair it. Mixing the two isn't likely to produce a "waterproof easily sanded" surface. I'd be more inclined to expect you'd get a harder-to-sand surface that wasn't waterproof. But, again, check the manuals.
 
I'm not completely familiar with the installation procedures for your kortz nozzle, but I would say it would be best to fair and coat your hull before installing the nozzle because 1. epoxying and sanding is a messy business and working around the nozzle would be a huge pain, if possible at all, and 2) the fairing and coating process will add thickness to the surface of the hull and yield the final dimensions to which the nozzle will have to be fitted.
 
Good luck with it!  And again, consult the WEST System manuals on line! Don't guess. Using epoxy coatings can be mastered by anyone who knows how to follow "cookbook" instructions, but if one ignores the instructions, it can quickly turn you into a "mad scientist" with an out-of-control experiment.
 
I'll also add that you should probably "start small" and get the feel of the stuff as you go along. Mix a small single "pump" batch and apply it on a piece of scrap wood and let it cure, Sand that and apply your barrier coat and see how that works out on the test piece. Don't use your hull to learn on. When you are comfortable, mix no more epoxy than you can use before it starts to cure too much. You can always mix more as you need it, but if you mix a big batch and it "cooks off" before you're done working with it, that epoxy is wasted and the stuff isn't cheap, as you know.
 
 

Yes, most paint requires "conditioning" before use. It's generally too thick "right out of the can." Additionally, paints that come as part of an "everything you need to build this kit" package, including paint, notoriously often contain paint that has sat for so long it's become much too thick, if not entirely dried up! The proper solvent will depend on the type of paint. Manufacturers of "model paint" will often have a proprietary thinner, retarder, and accelerator for their products. Check the manufacturer's instructions.

Yes, most paint requires "conditioning" before use. It's generally too thick "right out of the can." Additionally, paints that come as part of an "everything you need to build this kit" package, including paint, notoriously often contain paint that has sat for so long it's become much too thick, if not entirely dried up! The proper solvent will depend on the type of paint. Manufacturers of "model paint" will often have a proprietary thinner, retarder, and accelerator for their products. Check the manufacturer's instructions.

I'm always amazed by the features of an iPhone. You could spend your entire life discovering the tricks it will do and never catch up with the Apple programmers creative upgrades. It's really too bad they don't sell these things with an instruction manual!  (I suspect there's an app for that, too!) 

This notion that you have to actually sew sails is false.in fact I usually advise against actual sewn seams due to the fact that the stitches are always grossly out of scale. If you think about the diameter of your running rigging-often represented by sewing thread on the model- then sail twine would have to be microscopic in order to be in scale with the running rigging. 
White Glue works fine on fabric. 

Michael, in case you haven't had the chance to see Glory's Figurehead on the real vessel, here's 3 beautiful images of her. The first 2 are ones that Michael Mjelde graciously shared with our group, from his over 60 years of researching her.

Spent some time finishing up the port anchor release mech and support chains 
 
Rob

It would be a convenience to have right- and left-scroll buttons added to the individual photos in the Gallery at the top of the MSW forum page. This way, one doesn't have to exit the photo currently being viewed to look at the next one in the series.
 
Terry

For example, consider Syren's Medway Longboat. It's not exactly a "beginners" model, but an attentive, determined, careful builder who can follow instructions (or ask Chuck Passaro, the kit designer here on MSW) can build quite an impressive model of an Admiralty longboat that is identical in all respects with the contemporary model at the Royal Maritime Museum at Greenwich.
 
Syren's website makes the instructions available. The link is halfway down the page: Medway Longboat (1742) (syrenshipmodelcompany.com)  Chuck's instructions make all the difference in the world. As far as I've seen, only Syren and Vanguard have produced models with instructions that make it possible for an entry-level modeler to succeed if you follow them step by step. There's no reason your first model has to end up looking crudely built if you take time and follow good instructions. You'll find many here at MSW who have "gone over to the dark side" and scratch-build spectacular works of art over a period of years after spending the better part of a lifetime studying and researching their subjects. Without that knowledge, which takes time to acquire, it's impossible to build a kit model that looks like the (professionally built) picture on the kit box without extensive "kit bashing" and replacement of stock parts and materials with after-market upgrades. You'll get there soon enough, but you aren't likely to take any wrong turns starting out with something like the Medway Longboat kit which really does make it possible for a dedicated beginner to build a model any modeler would be proud to display. 
 
In my opinion, the best way to learn is by building a challenging, sophisticated kit that has good instructions, rather than a "dumbed down" "beginner's kit" with inadequate instructions. 

For example, consider Syren's Medway Longboat. It's not exactly a "beginners" model, but an attentive, determined, careful builder who can follow instructions (or ask Chuck Passaro, the kit designer here on MSW) can build quite an impressive model of an Admiralty longboat that is identical in all respects with the contemporary model at the Royal Maritime Museum at Greenwich.
 
Syren's website makes the instructions available. The link is halfway down the page: Medway Longboat (1742) (syrenshipmodelcompany.com)  Chuck's instructions make all the difference in the world. As far as I've seen, only Syren and Vanguard have produced models with instructions that make it possible for an entry-level modeler to succeed if you follow them step by step. There's no reason your first model has to end up looking crudely built if you take time and follow good instructions. You'll find many here at MSW who have "gone over to the dark side" and scratch-build spectacular works of art over a period of years after spending the better part of a lifetime studying and researching their subjects. Without that knowledge, which takes time to acquire, it's impossible to build a kit model that looks like the (professionally built) picture on the kit box without extensive "kit bashing" and replacement of stock parts and materials with after-market upgrades. You'll get there soon enough, but you aren't likely to take any wrong turns starting out with something like the Medway Longboat kit which really does make it possible for a dedicated beginner to build a model any modeler would be proud to display. 
 
In my opinion, the best way to learn is by building a challenging, sophisticated kit that has good instructions, rather than a "dumbed down" "beginner's kit" with inadequate instructions. 

There is a group build for the Medway Longboat here:   https://modelshipworld.com/forum/77-medway-long-boat-1742-public-group-project/  

For example, consider Syren's Medway Longboat. It's not exactly a "beginners" model, but an attentive, determined, careful builder who can follow instructions (or ask Chuck Passaro, the kit designer here on MSW) can build quite an impressive model of an Admiralty longboat that is identical in all respects with the contemporary model at the Royal Maritime Museum at Greenwich.
 
Syren's website makes the instructions available. The link is halfway down the page: Medway Longboat (1742) (syrenshipmodelcompany.com)  Chuck's instructions make all the difference in the world. As far as I've seen, only Syren and Vanguard have produced models with instructions that make it possible for an entry-level modeler to succeed if you follow them step by step. There's no reason your first model has to end up looking crudely built if you take time and follow good instructions. You'll find many here at MSW who have "gone over to the dark side" and scratch-build spectacular works of art over a period of years after spending the better part of a lifetime studying and researching their subjects. Without that knowledge, which takes time to acquire, it's impossible to build a kit model that looks like the (professionally built) picture on the kit box without extensive "kit bashing" and replacement of stock parts and materials with after-market upgrades. You'll get there soon enough, but you aren't likely to take any wrong turns starting out with something like the Medway Longboat kit which really does make it possible for a dedicated beginner to build a model any modeler would be proud to display. 
 
In my opinion, the best way to learn is by building a challenging, sophisticated kit that has good instructions, rather than a "dumbed down" "beginner's kit" with inadequate instructions. 

For example, consider Syren's Medway Longboat. It's not exactly a "beginners" model, but an attentive, determined, careful builder who can follow instructions (or ask Chuck Passaro, the kit designer here on MSW) can build quite an impressive model of an Admiralty longboat that is identical in all respects with the contemporary model at the Royal Maritime Museum at Greenwich.
 
Syren's website makes the instructions available. The link is halfway down the page: Medway Longboat (1742) (syrenshipmodelcompany.com)  Chuck's instructions make all the difference in the world. As far as I've seen, only Syren and Vanguard have produced models with instructions that make it possible for an entry-level modeler to succeed if you follow them step by step. There's no reason your first model has to end up looking crudely built if you take time and follow good instructions. You'll find many here at MSW who have "gone over to the dark side" and scratch-build spectacular works of art over a period of years after spending the better part of a lifetime studying and researching their subjects. Without that knowledge, which takes time to acquire, it's impossible to build a kit model that looks like the (professionally built) picture on the kit box without extensive "kit bashing" and replacement of stock parts and materials with after-market upgrades. You'll get there soon enough, but you aren't likely to take any wrong turns starting out with something like the Medway Longboat kit which really does make it possible for a dedicated beginner to build a model any modeler would be proud to display. 
 
In my opinion, the best way to learn is by building a challenging, sophisticated kit that has good instructions, rather than a "dumbed down" "beginner's kit" with inadequate instructions. 

For example, consider Syren's Medway Longboat. It's not exactly a "beginners" model, but an attentive, determined, careful builder who can follow instructions (or ask Chuck Passaro, the kit designer here on MSW) can build quite an impressive model of an Admiralty longboat that is identical in all respects with the contemporary model at the Royal Maritime Museum at Greenwich.
 
Syren's website makes the instructions available. The link is halfway down the page: Medway Longboat (1742) (syrenshipmodelcompany.com)  Chuck's instructions make all the difference in the world. As far as I've seen, only Syren and Vanguard have produced models with instructions that make it possible for an entry-level modeler to succeed if you follow them step by step. There's no reason your first model has to end up looking crudely built if you take time and follow good instructions. You'll find many here at MSW who have "gone over to the dark side" and scratch-build spectacular works of art over a period of years after spending the better part of a lifetime studying and researching their subjects. Without that knowledge, which takes time to acquire, it's impossible to build a kit model that looks like the (professionally built) picture on the kit box without extensive "kit bashing" and replacement of stock parts and materials with after-market upgrades. You'll get there soon enough, but you aren't likely to take any wrong turns starting out with something like the Medway Longboat kit which really does make it possible for a dedicated beginner to build a model any modeler would be proud to display. 
 
In my opinion, the best way to learn is by building a challenging, sophisticated kit that has good instructions, rather than a "dumbed down" "beginner's kit" with inadequate instructions. 

Stevinne, have a look at the Vanguard Models and also Syren Models builds here.  From what I've heard, they have some of the best instructions and the designers are here on MSW.

"Nylon" and "polyester" are somewhat generic descriptions. There is a range of characteristics in each that can affect their suitability for modeling. These characteristics include the tightness of the lay, the material's inherent resistance to degradation from UV radiation, the behavior of the material in relation to the ambient humidity, whether UV inhibitors have been added, and the color of the material, among other things. You'd need a degree in chemistry to sort it all out. In this instance, the cord is made for stringing beads and the beads will cover the cord, so it might not be treated with UV inhibitors. You'd have to have the data on the particular chemistry of the specific nylon or polyester material to be able to judge which offered the better archival qualities. Given the amount of labor that goes into properly rigging a model, the choice of rigging material is probably not the best area to be taking chances. Stick with what others have found to be suitable for the job.

"Nylon" and "polyester" are somewhat generic descriptions. There is a range of characteristics in each that can affect their suitability for modeling. These characteristics include the tightness of the lay, the material's inherent resistance to degradation from UV radiation, the behavior of the material in relation to the ambient humidity, whether UV inhibitors have been added, and the color of the material, among other things. You'd need a degree in chemistry to sort it all out. In this instance, the cord is made for stringing beads and the beads will cover the cord, so it might not be treated with UV inhibitors. You'd have to have the data on the particular chemistry of the specific nylon or polyester material to be able to judge which offered the better archival qualities. Given the amount of labor that goes into properly rigging a model, the choice of rigging material is probably not the best area to be taking chances. Stick with what others have found to be suitable for the job.

"Nylon" and "polyester" are somewhat generic descriptions. There is a range of characteristics in each that can affect their suitability for modeling. These characteristics include the tightness of the lay, the material's inherent resistance to degradation from UV radiation, the behavior of the material in relation to the ambient humidity, whether UV inhibitors have been added, and the color of the material, among other things. You'd need a degree in chemistry to sort it all out. In this instance, the cord is made for stringing beads and the beads will cover the cord, so it might not be treated with UV inhibitors. You'd have to have the data on the particular chemistry of the specific nylon or polyester material to be able to judge which offered the better archival qualities. Given the amount of labor that goes into properly rigging a model, the choice of rigging material is probably not the best area to be taking chances. Stick with what others have found to be suitable for the job.

Bill,
This drawing from Lees' Masting and Rigging, page 49 may also be of some help.  Note that in a lot of kits  many drawings, including the one you posted,  look nothing like what would be found on a real ship.  You can check realistic methods in a number of books and on some builds here at MSW so you're not relegated to using erroneous kit information. 
Allan

I gather, such questions are difficult to answer, which is why no-one chipped in so far.
 
Internally strapped blocks require the manufacture of rolled iron-bars and the possibility to drill accurate and matched holes for the axle. This kind of manufacturing technology only became available around the second quarter of the 19th century. That should give you a time frame. This kind of marine technology diffused quickly around the world and was adopted, where the respective manufacturing technology was available together with the necessary raw materials.