Bob Cleek

I often use a #2 pencil with an eraser as a push stick. The eraser side down on the wood. I also make up push sticks as I go. It only takes a few seconds. Rule One: Never reach over a table saw blade. Rule Two: Never stand in line with the blade. (Avoid getting hit by a kick-back.) Rule Three: Always use a push stick when ripping.

When tying off, apply a small drop of thinned shellac to the knot. That will keep it from loosening. If you ever do have to untie it, a light application of denatured alcohol will dissolve the shellac and the knot can be undone. 

I often use a #2 pencil with an eraser as a push stick. The eraser side down on the wood. I also make up push sticks as I go. It only takes a few seconds. Rule One: Never reach over a table saw blade. Rule Two: Never stand in line with the blade. (Avoid getting hit by a kick-back.) Rule Three: Always use a push stick when ripping.

Ok i ordered the sliding table and tilting table attachments as well. I think that's everything. I'll add my progress on here until I get to my desired result. Thanks everyone for the support! 😊

I'm a scale modeler specializing in scratch-building U.S. Coast Guard vessels for radio control operation.
I have built a 36' Motor Life Boat, a 38' Picket Boat, a 52' Motor Life Boat (Intrepid) and a 180' Iris class Buoy Tender (WLB 394 Hornbeam)
I have planned to build a 25' 8" Motor Surf Boat and a 30' Surf Rescue Boat both in 1 1/2" to the foot scale but at age 81 have lost some of my small motor skills and feel I could not do them justice.
I have plans for both and have framed-up the 30 footer.
I have a custom made brass skeg attached to the keel and stem plywood layout for the 25 footer with the prop shafts bored and station lines marked.
I am attaching photos of both as well as some of my completed models.
If anyone is interested in completing these two boats, please get in touch. I am in suburban Philadelphia.
Sam Wasson
 

The Complete Rigger's Apprentice, by Brion Toss (just recently deceased.) https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Riggers-Apprentice-Techniques-Traditional/dp/0070648409/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&hvadid=78340264775888&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&keywords=the+rigger's+apprentice&qid=1602362353&sr=8-3&tag=mh0b-20
 
The Gaff Rig Handbook, by John Leather.  https://www.ebay.com/i/184384037037?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=184384037037&targetid=4580290572086399&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=403204655&mkgroupid=1227055191472610&rlsatarget=pla-4580290572086399&abcId=9300377&merchantid=51291&msclkid=6141db830e2a1da5d9c3840112cc890e

First read the instructions that came with the saw. (I'm not saying this to be snarky. You'd be amazed how many people in this world never read the instructions... including my Dearly Beloved.) The instructions should show you how to set up your saw. You will probably want to move the fence to the other side of the blade and you'll want to find a place to keep your miter gauge until you are ready to use it besides where you've got it in the photo. 
 
Then, start with the YouTube video below and then keep watching the basic full-size table saw operation videos on this page: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+use+a+table+saw  The operation of the Byrnes saw is the same as that for a full-size table saw. Pay close attention to the safe operation rules. The Byrnes Saw is small and quiet, but no less worthy of respect than a full-size table saw. It will injure in all the same ways, albeit perhaps on a smaller scale. 
 
To get the most from your saw, you will probably want to also acquire the factory-made cross-cutting sled that will make short repetitive cross cuts easily and with extreme accuracy. 
 
This advice may seem a bit simplistic, but a good command of the basics will get you off on the right foot. 
 
 
 
 

First read the instructions that came with the saw. (I'm not saying this to be snarky. You'd be amazed how many people in this world never read the instructions... including my Dearly Beloved.) The instructions should show you how to set up your saw. You will probably want to move the fence to the other side of the blade and you'll want to find a place to keep your miter gauge until you are ready to use it besides where you've got it in the photo. 
 
Then, start with the YouTube video below and then keep watching the basic full-size table saw operation videos on this page: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+use+a+table+saw  The operation of the Byrnes saw is the same as that for a full-size table saw. Pay close attention to the safe operation rules. The Byrnes Saw is small and quiet, but no less worthy of respect than a full-size table saw. It will injure in all the same ways, albeit perhaps on a smaller scale. 
 
To get the most from your saw, you will probably want to also acquire the factory-made cross-cutting sled that will make short repetitive cross cuts easily and with extreme accuracy. 
 
This advice may seem a bit simplistic, but a good command of the basics will get you off on the right foot. 
 
 
 
 

First read the instructions that came with the saw. (I'm not saying this to be snarky. You'd be amazed how many people in this world never read the instructions... including my Dearly Beloved.) The instructions should show you how to set up your saw. You will probably want to move the fence to the other side of the blade and you'll want to find a place to keep your miter gauge until you are ready to use it besides where you've got it in the photo. 
 
Then, start with the YouTube video below and then keep watching the basic full-size table saw operation videos on this page: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+use+a+table+saw  The operation of the Byrnes saw is the same as that for a full-size table saw. Pay close attention to the safe operation rules. The Byrnes Saw is small and quiet, but no less worthy of respect than a full-size table saw. It will injure in all the same ways, albeit perhaps on a smaller scale. 
 
To get the most from your saw, you will probably want to also acquire the factory-made cross-cutting sled that will make short repetitive cross cuts easily and with extreme accuracy. 
 
This advice may seem a bit simplistic, but a good command of the basics will get you off on the right foot. 
 
 
 
 

Charlie,
 
First thing- Take out the little peg that fits into the miter gage to index it at 90 and 45 degrees.  Paint it with the brightest paint that you have.  When you drop it on the floor, you’ll have a fighting chance of finding it.
 
As usual don’t ask me how Iknow this.
 
Roger

When tying off, apply a small drop of thinned shellac to the knot. That will keep it from loosening. If you ever do have to untie it, a light application of denatured alcohol will dissolve the shellac and the knot can be undone. 

First read the instructions that came with the saw. (I'm not saying this to be snarky. You'd be amazed how many people in this world never read the instructions... including my Dearly Beloved.) The instructions should show you how to set up your saw. You will probably want to move the fence to the other side of the blade and you'll want to find a place to keep your miter gauge until you are ready to use it besides where you've got it in the photo. 
 
Then, start with the YouTube video below and then keep watching the basic full-size table saw operation videos on this page: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+use+a+table+saw  The operation of the Byrnes saw is the same as that for a full-size table saw. Pay close attention to the safe operation rules. The Byrnes Saw is small and quiet, but no less worthy of respect than a full-size table saw. It will injure in all the same ways, albeit perhaps on a smaller scale. 
 
To get the most from your saw, you will probably want to also acquire the factory-made cross-cutting sled that will make short repetitive cross cuts easily and with extreme accuracy. 
 
This advice may seem a bit simplistic, but a good command of the basics will get you off on the right foot. 
 
 
 
 

First read the instructions that came with the saw. (I'm not saying this to be snarky. You'd be amazed how many people in this world never read the instructions... including my Dearly Beloved.) The instructions should show you how to set up your saw. You will probably want to move the fence to the other side of the blade and you'll want to find a place to keep your miter gauge until you are ready to use it besides where you've got it in the photo. 
 
Then, start with the YouTube video below and then keep watching the basic full-size table saw operation videos on this page: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+use+a+table+saw  The operation of the Byrnes saw is the same as that for a full-size table saw. Pay close attention to the safe operation rules. The Byrnes Saw is small and quiet, but no less worthy of respect than a full-size table saw. It will injure in all the same ways, albeit perhaps on a smaller scale. 
 
To get the most from your saw, you will probably want to also acquire the factory-made cross-cutting sled that will make short repetitive cross cuts easily and with extreme accuracy. 
 
This advice may seem a bit simplistic, but a good command of the basics will get you off on the right foot. 
 
 
 
 

The Complete Rigger's Apprentice, by Brion Toss (just recently deceased.) https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Riggers-Apprentice-Techniques-Traditional/dp/0070648409/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&hvadid=78340264775888&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&keywords=the+rigger's+apprentice&qid=1602362353&sr=8-3&tag=mh0b-20
 
The Gaff Rig Handbook, by John Leather.  https://www.ebay.com/i/184384037037?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=184384037037&targetid=4580290572086399&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=403204655&mkgroupid=1227055191472610&rlsatarget=pla-4580290572086399&abcId=9300377&merchantid=51291&msclkid=6141db830e2a1da5d9c3840112cc890e

When tying off, apply a small drop of thinned shellac to the knot. That will keep it from loosening. If you ever do have to untie it, a light application of denatured alcohol will dissolve the shellac and the knot can be undone. 

Mike
I have a few models that have been around for going on 30 years in which the lines are still taut so this is a new one for me.    In any case, I am not sure why you would worry about the pins being glued.   The lines are the only things that need to be removed and tightened as the pins would be kept in place.     Just make sure you have sufficient line coiled as you mention.   
Allan

One of the joys of model building is dreaming up innovative techniques to solve problems.
 
if this were my model, I would seal the deck with a very light coat of thin clear shellac.  I would then paint the deck with thinned acrylic paint, the color of the caulking.  When the paint has dried, scrape it off with a single edged razor blade, leaving the color in the scribed deck seams.
 
Try this on some scrap first!!
 
Roger

Before full speed ahead- Work out your technique on scrap first!!!

Garrett Wade has them, but they are presently out of stock.  https://www.garrettwade.com/miniature-spokeshave-set-3.html 
 
 

 
 

Garrett Wade has them, but they are presently out of stock.  https://www.garrettwade.com/miniature-spokeshave-set-3.html 
 
 

 
 

Guys, I'm not saying that the Veritas miniature tools, for what they are, aren't well made or won't do the job within the limits of their sizes. Owning one, if you didn't have something better to do with your money, would, I'm sure, be satisfying. They're very cool. However, my point, perhaps stated more artfully here, is that they are "collectables" and, for the price, there are many other options which are designed to work wood in small sizes and better suited for those tasks than simply a miniature version of a much larger tool.
 
Two hands versus one hand. Capice?
 

 
.https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/miniature-tools/planes/75057-veritas-miniature-bench-plane?item=05P8222
 

 
https://www.lie-nielsen.com/products/Model Maker's Block Plane?path=block-planes&node=4072
 
The Lie-Neilsen model maker's block plane above, at around $100, costs twice as much as the Veritas miniature bench plane, but is engineered for a full sized hand. It is a knock-off of the original Stanley #101 model maker's plane. Used original Stanley #101's and other makers' new copies of the original Stanley #101 can be had for around twenty bucks.
 

 
 
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan12.htm

https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/kunzpalmplanewithhandle.aspx
 
And the current folded metal (not cast) Stanley version without the beaver-tail palm handle retails new for about seven bucks.
 

https://www.zoro.com/stanley-small-trimming-plane-12-101/i/G9174277/
 
 
And if you really want to go first class on such tools, consider the "finger planes" made for luthiers. The Ibex line will make a dent in your wallet, but they're finestkind.
 

 
https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/finger-planes.aspx
 


 

Many years ago while studying Naval Architecture at the University of Michigan a group of built an 8ft long model of a tanker to tow in the Department’s 400ft+ long towing tank.  The Model was built from clear 5/4 pattern maker’s white pine, beautiful stuff.
 
The professional modelmakers used these little bronze body spokeshaves.  Inexpensive and sturdy.  55 years later I’m still using them.  If you can find them, they are worth having.
 
 

These Veritas miniature tools are collectors' pieces. While they do "work," they are not built for serious use. For one thing, as miniatures, they aren't ergonomically suited for use in a full-size hand. They were intended for the gift trade (and hence the nice fitted box,) not serious miniature woodworking. 

I  have one like this but different brand name.  Made in China but once the blade was sharpened it works really well.  Think I paid $9.95 for it on eBay.

These Veritas miniature tools are collectors' pieces. While they do "work," they are not built for serious use. For one thing, as miniatures, they aren't ergonomically suited for use in a full-size hand. They were intended for the gift trade (and hence the nice fitted box,) not serious miniature woodworking.