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md1400cs
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Hi Mates, Thanks for the nice comments, likes and just dropping by. Ferit, you are too kind. I am still a student who has a lot of learning ahead. (;-) Speaking of learning – third attempt to serve an eyelet and make a mouse; SO Back to the serving tool Finished the first section for the eyelet. THIS time, after uncoiling the end strands I ONLY kept one strand, cutting the others off at the served end. Above post I tried to keep all four strands. What was I thinking? Trying to “weave” the four strands back in was just not working. So, inserted the one uncut strand through the other end of the served section rope to create the eye. Glued and left to dry (note that the two end served threads have not been cut nor the “pulled through” rope strand. All left in place. The served leftover threads were then spooled and knotted through the base of the eyelet to help visually fill the served “gap” that was left after pulling the one strand through the rope. The “pulled through” strand was left because with my just previous attempt (no photo) with the pressure of the serving tool the eyelet opened up, Grrrrrr. Leaving the last strand (after gluing helped to add strength to the eye during serving) Next used two carriage wheels to make the mouse. Ran it through the rope, attached four ropes. This was done because I feared that when I got to trying to serve the mouse; the thread would just slip and not cover the mouse. The four threads should help to hold the thread in place as it was being served. You will note that mid-way between the eyelet and the mouse there are to long stands of thread. Unexpectedly as I was using pressure with my thumb and forefinger allowing the serving to progress, inside my closed palm the thread (from the bobbin) started knotting itself up. SO I had to snip the thread and start over mid-way. NOTE the thread bobbin was then left hanging and gravity allowed it to keep twists unspooled. Now reaching the first half of the mouse – All good so far, but then thread started slipping forward. Stopped-- Glued thread mid-way and started serving backwards towards the mouse from the other side. ALL ok. Oh - used very little flat brown paint to “hide” dried glue marks, then rubbed the paint off with my thumb What did I learn? • Serving thread needs to be same color as rope (thanks Henry) •Thread may bunch up •Mouse needs more than four cross-threads (allowing for a more rounded look once served and covered. • Need to improve the actual serving of the mouse bit – rope is ok but close up mouse is a bit “weak” •Mouse might be a bit too big ?? • Don’t start serving when Admiral is around, she will always need my assistance for something, She did indeed. (:=)) Enjoyed this learning. And mate’s thanks for your advice! Cheers Michael
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Frank Apple user for many years. In fact when I first got an email account to use with my first PowerBook I had to think of an email user name. MD(1400cs) Check out the name of my first laptop (:-) ha ha
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Frank, Yes that lantern if SO perfect. My iWatch has been beeping this entire afternoon (PST) Now I understand why. (:-) Cheers Michael
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George, Thanks for the link. The debate has to also do with actual tarring or not. The Vasa was not tarred when it sank. That was to presumably be done after all fittings were installed, and it was readied for sea duty. Also as you noted none of the Museum's lines are tarred. Though the main mast stay is served. Henry, yes of course, that makes sense. My confusion has to do with how actually lines were served back then. Did the craftsmen pre tar the serving ropes before spooling them to the shrouds? Which is why as asked that question - I just don't know about those details. In any case I will use brown thread. PS: My wife did not have any so I grabbed black ha ha Thanks for adding your thoughts.
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Hi Mates, Need some sage advice. Tried a Google search but came up empty. I finally, today, used the Servo Matic (5 Stars). But I am serving a "Stockholm tarred" line with black thread. The work is ok, but I don't like the "look" of it. So my question is--Should a tarred rope also be served with the same color thread (in this case dark brown) in order to keep the look authentic? As some of you know when it comes to rigging I'm a novice. This build is my first, real, attempt at rigging so the learning curve is still being climbed. Thanks in advance for your advice. Michael
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Thanks Mates, George you are always, also, so kind with your likes. (;-) So I finally, today, got around to putting together Syren's "Servo-Matic". So I will re-visit my first attempt at an eyelet, and a mouse. I plan to follow up, properly, with Chuck's tool and properly serve the rope as well. Still learning, I am....Sorry for the very minor post (:-) Regards, Michael
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Hi Mates, Doing some work finishing up the three foremasts timbers as well as the upper platform. Took a detour and tried to make the mouse for the foremast stay that attaches to the bowsprit mast. Well did the first bit. I wanted to try (first effort) not to just bend the rope tip over forming the ring, but instead trying to lace the end back into the rope itself. The 1/1 details look so perfect, but Hmmm… ---------------------------- Using closing tweezers unlaced a tip of the 9-ply rope Added a bit of glue so as to not allow the pope unfurl any further. Added some space from the glued bit and re-attached another set of closing tweezers after reversing the rope wrap Used a dowel as a “ring” and after pushing the loose rope ends through the un-stranded gap, again used glue to set the rope twisting it all back into an appropriate looking weave. Let the glue dry, cut off the protruding stands and then wrapped it all with thread. OK now I need to actually make the “mouse bit” And as always, thanks so much for dropping by and taking a look - Always so appreciated. Cheers, Michael
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Mark, Super rigging job. So you decided not to install with tarred standing rigging. I know that this has been discussed a lot among we Vasa builders. Clayton did not. Nor are they installed at the museum in either ship. I'm almost the "Lone Ranger" here. Though from what I have read, tar had not yet been added to the ropes at its first "sailing". Stockholm tarred looking ropes were available at Syren ( a very dark brown [as opposed to black]), so that's how I decided to proceed. I really, actually also, like the look of the non-tarred ropes Cheers. PS: beautiful work on your crowsfeet !! That has to be a real area of "I'll get through this" bit... Michael
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Hi Mates, just a quick FYI - post. I needed some more blocks and rope so went to Syren's site. Chuck has added several size cleats. Look really nice. Cheers,
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Ed, Your capstan is a work of art. I seems as though with each new posting your art gets better and better. But that can't be (:-) Also a big thanks for all of your text. SO informative as well. Your build log is just as good as your ship (:-))))) Michael
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Greg and John, Thanks for your kind comments. Also appreciate the Like This clicks, and also mates just looking in. Frank, yes those are Chuck's blocks at Syren (along with 100% of all rigging) John, yup a bit of frustration here and there - certainly par for the course, but the learning is really encouraging. Cheers Michael
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Henry, Thank you for your very knowledgeable assistance. So appreciated. I very much enjoy learning about this "at their time" amazing state of the art technology. It always always reminds me of, when I was working in the UK, (though my home is in the US), traveling across the Atlantic (back and forth) at 37,000 feet drinking champagne in a flying machine listening to music from my portable CD player (antique) looking down at the choppy Atlantic Ocean thinking, "omg they could never imagine today's amazing transportation". But today We can easily think of "Beam me up Scotty" And that idea is, today, half a century ago (;-) Yes I droned on, but love today (;-)..... Again thanks !! Michael
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So I did some frustrating research regarding deadeye size related to mast diameter (post just above) Pic #1 Corel part number for that mast Pic # 2 Corel measurements for that part Pic # 3 Smallest kit included deadeye Pic # 4 Smallest deadeye next to installed mast part number 237 So in order to stay within scale I would need to double the diameter of mast part 237 or source a deadeye of apprx. 1 1/2 mm diameters. Looked at several retail sites. The smallest deadeyes seem to be 3mm, which is what I installed. SO I'm leaving this bit as-is. This new knowledge will be useful as I continue. Though for sure the smaller deadeyes would have been a better fit. Cheers,
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Lovely indeed. So Frank you're in for another Winter blast from hell this weekend. Stay warm and off the roads with that sweet car of yours. Michael
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Jack, Just found your new build log. Great project I will follow along. Michael
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Peter, (Henry, George) Thanks for your constructive, and helpful post. Very much appreciated. I am fairly comfortable with my building skills that have imprroved, BUT I am an unsophisticated novice otherwise. These blocks are a good example of my lack of knowledge. For all-intents-and purposes this is my first build that requires rigging knowledge, especially for three masts. Mates, please don't refrain from helpful postings of "fixes" for my errors. I enjoy learning about all of these important aspects of this hobby. These fiddle blocks will be easily reversed. Thanks! I also received a very kind PM from another excellent builder who suggested, rightfully so (I've since learned as well), that the deadeyes attached to the bowsprit mast cap are, in fact, too big. They should be about half of the diameter of the mast for a given location (again very much appreciated constructive information) THANKS "J"...... BUT- Hmmm, That would be too much work to fix. The Corel kit included deadeyes in three sizes. I, ignorantly, used the middle size, leaving the small ones for the upper platforms. Hmmm--again. Though now this obvious error will grate at me. I may eventually need to dis-assemble the cap and replace the deadeyes with after market purchased pieces. Sorry--got a bit wordy here, Again thanks for following along AND thanks for the help. OH and one more thing. Regarding shroud and line sizes and diameter I'm fishing in the dark (:-) Sincerely, Michael
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Frank, Capt. Steve & the "likes" click, thank you for dropping in and posting. Always very much appreciated. Moving forward at a snail's pace (:-). Though we are finally expecting "El Niño" storms, so I may be in-house a bit more. Frank!! I'm sure that you are already, this weekend, buried in snow? Michael
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Hi Mates, So after getting Fred Hocker’s confirmation regarding the Vasa having mast tackles with fiddle blocks I used some single blocks to “make” four blocks. These four blocks will remain static attached to shrouds (without lines inserted) so wanted to add a bit of detail to the “pulleys” within. Will need four more for the main mast as well. I used a drill bit and sort of honed within the blocks to make the pulleys appear more circular. The diff. is somewhat noticeable. Had lines been strung through these blocks I would not have done this extra bit of work. Finished up the lower foremast cap and deadeyes. Added the shrouds as well as the middle foremast staff. Now working on the four other needed platforms. Doing them all at once. Thanks for dropping by as well as your advice. Cheers,
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Bob, Such a delight for the eyes.!! Beautiful model. It looks like a "simple" model to build, BUT I'm sure that it was much more involved than it would appear. Your level of, and attention to quality details are superlative. Congrats.... MIchael
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Vince, Just catching up. Brilliant work. Love the stern details as well. George is spot on, that black stripe is perfect. Michael
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Frank, Super nice flag mounting details !! Made a folder of your pics, when I get there (in ten years) I will follow you lead (:-) Your Vasa looks really spectacular. Great build (and it was a Corel ha ha). I'll have to follow your wagon train on another forum?? Michael
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Mark, You are out-doing-yourself on this one (:-) Cheers Michael
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Dirk, Yes, as always your work is such a pleasure for the eyes (and brain-I'm learning a lot). Michael
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Rob, Enjoying following along. Mostly silent or with a "like" here and there. That said great work. Love your carriage riggings !! Michael
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