md1400cs

NIgel, Thank you - you are always so kind with your remarks. Regarding scale, I do think that I have succumbed to the dark side of "having to" add tiny bits that are - so not needed, and almost impossible to see - That said, thanks I will try your suggestion, and continue with this obsession (:-) PS: I hope that a torch lighter will do the trick.Thanks Regards, Michael

Alexandru, Your ship is sooo beautiful. Everytime I visit your new postings, I tell myself that I can't possibly be once again in awe of your work. But yes every visit has new magic for the eyes and the senses. Tom is right this work NEEDS to be seen by many - It deserves to be. And NOT against a wall. A "walk around" is a must. Brilliant indeed. In fact, in my humble opinion, it should be on display aboard the HMS Victory, to give the millions who visit her an incredible miniature view of the actual build plank by plank Michael

Hi Mates, Another “bit” work in progress post Added the last four foremast stay ropes Pic 1 PS: I missed those before attaching the lower foremastmast cap. Noticed these four ropes and pulleys were still needed Grrrr. Had to unglue (without breaking) the cap so as to properly install those hanging ropes, Now I’ve (finally) attached and glued into place the foremast. Ok moving forward J Pic 2 Then noticed that these 4 mast stay ropes work with blocks/pulleys that attach to the two chainplate rings on each side with hooks. OK - but then I also saw that the 1/1 and the 1/10th have metal rings that attach to the hooks wrapped in rope then to each of the lower 4 blocks. Pic 3 & 4 Wanted to add these rings as well. So here is my first attempt. Once I get the hang of it these rings will be easier to add and incorporate as needed. STEPS: Pic 5: purchased these eyelets at Amazon Pic 6: Also bought aluminum and brass tubing Pics 7 & 8: First attempt (with the eyelet). Inserted a nail and cut the eyelet to size needed. Pic 9: Used a small pin punch to “re-round the cut bit Pic 10: Now used a wide punch with hammer taps to flare the newly cut end (Amazon purchase) Pic 11: Gave it a “look” Pic 12: Now deciding between brass eyelets or aluminum. A few attempts to flare the brass eyelets resulted in rips along the side. Aluminum being much softer it tends to stretch and flare out much more nicely. Intent is to have an inner ridge so the rope loop stays put. That said the front face of the eyelets sure look perfect. Pic 13: Now the hooks becomes the problem, Could not attach rings to these two pre-made hook types that I had available. Pics 14 & 15: so made some up. Last pic; this might just work out ok, after a few more sample efforts and then some flat black paint. Again thanks so much for you visits and thoughts. Cheers, Michael PS 2 Finally figured out how to add pics as I go along with notes Gee wizz took 2 years ha ha

Bill, Just catching up. Yes beautiful work indeed. Michael

Frank, Yes ! this one is a real beauty. So appreciate all of the weathered details. You so captured this. Excellent build. Cheers, Michael

Mates, Thanks so much for the likes, and just dropping in. George – you are always so kind Frank /Mark- Thanks - I often look back into your logs to check myself J Henry - Appreciated indeed -EJ – I’m so very touched by your (blush) so kind and encouraging post. I mean this very sincerely, also thanks for still following along all this time, yes it has been slow J Yes – you are certainly correct rushing bits are always regrettable after the fact. We’ve certainly all been there, as you just mentioned. Hindsight is the perfect gift, isn’t it? And my skills have also developed by reading and learning from other builders here at MSW. A thought that I have repeated throughout since joining, I am also very happy that some of my build ideas are useful to others as well. We so learn from each other. Again -EJ, thanks so much your inspirational post (for me as well) . Regards – everyone Michael

Ed, Whatever this is for YOU WIN (:-) MIchael

Hi Mates, Still finishing up the foremast, and as I was looking at one of the Vasa Museum plan sheets I noticed small pins were part of the mast cap braces. These pins allowed the metal braces to be removed. (Though I realized that there had to be a way of removing broken masts) It gnawed at me for a way to add these details before installing the masts. Very –super small- bit of added detail, but actually simple to make, so I thought that I would share So I came up with the following; pics are pretty much self-explanatory, so I will keep the post brief. 1) Flattened nail heads with small pliers. 2) Drilled holes in the center of the flattened head. PS: My first attempt was way off center – so used a small center punch guide to slightly indent where I wanted the drill bit to bite. 3) Then used a rotary tool to flatten the sides and front edges of the new braces. Had some other small nails, and I also flattened the heads using these as the pins to keep the mast braces in place. 4) clipped the long pins, a little thinned paint and there…. So super small (prob. easy to miss) added bit of details. I’m satisfied with how this worked out. As always, thanks for your continued interest in dropping by. Regards, Michael ,

Nice indeed. Marks this build log is high on my list of "enjoying following along" MIchael

Very interesting indeed. 3D printing will eventually also become a big part of our hobby, I can foresee tremendous applications; sculpturing very accurate "gilded figures" then using gold foil as a 'topping'. Or for fabricating large complex stern galleries...potential applications are so many (correct cannons as well) and on and on. Eventually retailers will make available the software needed for the printers to fabricate the needed parts. Very cool !!! Your work in this area is an inspiration and mind opening. Thanks for sharing. PS: Love that yacht. Michael

Mark, Beautiful work indeed. Rigging is so perfect. PS: I'm getting "cold feet" regarding adding sails on mine, yours looks so beautiful. MIchael

Lawrence, Thank soo much for your "over the top" (blush) - comments, given the quality of your work I'm also really touched by your post. Very kind of you. Builders such as yourself, and many others here at MSW also help me to improve my work as I learn and grow with this encompassing hobby of ours. Sincerely, Michael

Mates, George, Nigel, Edwin, Frank thanks for your so nice comments. Paul S, thanks so much for following along. Very nice of you, I have been re-miss in not thanking and acknowledging members whom are interested in this build, and have chosen to get updates J Mark. Thanks, but your beautiful completed rigging along with FrankM, and Karl, will be my guides in this very new area for me. ------------------------ Frank M. YES indeed – Your post is well so perfect. Foresight was missing here for me as well. The starboard railing will survive with a couple of wood putty “fill-ins” and re drills. The Port side is a mess. I knew that as I was drilling the holes too close to existing ones. I was also hoping to fix it the same as the other railing. Then noticed that the holes are not even mid-rail (rushing never works, does it?) So I looked in my junk wood box and happened upon a left over railing piece that is, unbelievably,exactly the same length, to the mm, as the one that came out terribly. I was out of those planks and also out of the upper top very thin cover piece. What luck!! So, This should be easy. I’ll drill for the verticals first, then space the pin holes correctly Hmmmm Again mates, thank so much for your interest, likes, and comments. Michael

Hi Mates, Preparing the weather deck foremast area for installation of the foremast, and then attaching the shrouds 1) Drilled holes in the lower railing to insert the vertical beams for the (later) upper railing trim pieces. 2) Discovered a 1/10th photo that showed blocks attached to the frame of the entry into the upper gun deck. I also found these four blocks in the museum weather deck running rigging fastenings 53 & 57. So added those as well. Some before and after shots follow 3) Cut the weather cover to better fit the now smaller entry to the gun deck. 4) Added eyebolts and a block at the foremast base. Along with a cleat on the mast (my idea ) hmmm I WILL repaint those poor heads that have lost their yellow - Thanks for still dropping by and looking in at this very very slow build (J Cheers, Michael

Theo, GOOD luck with your new business !!, your amazing ST will wait for you, but we will all miss her updates for a while. Cheers, Michael

Frank, Thanks for your very kind postings. Enjoy your Maine weekend, as you know it's been in the 80ºs here in LA and Santa Monica (:-) BUT we are all asking, "El Niño, where are you?" Cheers, Michael

Ed, Impossible to add words to this astonishing project that you are working on. So I will just click "Like This" and all the words of praise will be in my clicks (:-) PS: I'm sure others who are following feel the same ha ha.. Michael

Frank, Thanks so much BUT I did NOT do that amazing mouse, as I noted in the posting. I'm hoping to copy this method (:-) Now if you are remarking about the next to last post regarding my first attempts at serving. then of course, a big thank you. Cheers, Michael

Ferit, and Henry, Henry your mouse looks really great. Thanks for the information. I also had these "forgotten" jpg.s in my files. I will try this technique for the main mast. The two mouse construction pics are from a MSW builder. I apologize, I don't remember who'se log I pulled these from - So I can't say thanks. BUT that seems to be a perfect way to do it. As you said Henry a bit labor intensive but great look. I might redo the foremast mouse if the main comes out nicely. As always mates thanks so much for dropping by to this very very slow moving build.

Henry, Don't know why I was not getting email updates from your build as I am following you? Anyway thanks for your notes on mine. I saw your mouse. Hmm yes looks so excellent. I will need to study this bit. Went back over your postings I had missed - a real beauty. As I had noted way back when your skills with a paintbrush for such small details is so excellent. Michael

Absolutely Stunning!!! Such an opportunity to follow your amazing work. Michael

Hi Mates, Thanks for the nice comments, likes and just dropping by. Ferit, you are too kind. I am still a student who has a lot of learning ahead. (;-) Speaking of learning – third attempt to serve an eyelet and make a mouse; SO Back to the serving tool Finished the first section for the eyelet. THIS time, after uncoiling the end strands I ONLY kept one strand, cutting the others off at the served end. Above post I tried to keep all four strands. What was I thinking? Trying to “weave” the four strands back in was just not working. So, inserted the one uncut strand through the other end of the served section rope to create the eye. Glued and left to dry (note that the two end served threads have not been cut nor the “pulled through” rope strand. All left in place. The served leftover threads were then spooled and knotted through the base of the eyelet to help visually fill the served “gap” that was left after pulling the one strand through the rope. The “pulled through” strand was left because with my just previous attempt (no photo) with the pressure of the serving tool the eyelet opened up, Grrrrrr. Leaving the last strand (after gluing helped to add strength to the eye during serving) Next used two carriage wheels to make the mouse. Ran it through the rope, attached four ropes. This was done because I feared that when I got to trying to serve the mouse; the thread would just slip and not cover the mouse. The four threads should help to hold the thread in place as it was being served. You will note that mid-way between the eyelet and the mouse there are to long stands of thread. Unexpectedly as I was using pressure with my thumb and forefinger allowing the serving to progress, inside my closed palm the thread (from the bobbin) started knotting itself up. SO I had to snip the thread and start over mid-way. NOTE the thread bobbin was then left hanging and gravity allowed it to keep twists unspooled. Now reaching the first half of the mouse – All good so far, but then thread started slipping forward. Stopped-- Glued thread mid-way and started serving backwards towards the mouse from the other side. ALL ok. Oh - used very little flat brown paint to “hide” dried glue marks, then rubbed the paint off with my thumb What did I learn? • Serving thread needs to be same color as rope (thanks Henry) •Thread may bunch up •Mouse needs more than four cross-threads (allowing for a more rounded look once served and covered. • Need to improve the actual serving of the mouse bit – rope is ok but close up mouse is a bit “weak” •Mouse might be a bit too big ?? • Don’t start serving when Admiral is around, she will always need my assistance for something, She did indeed. (:=)) Enjoyed this learning. And mate’s thanks for your advice! Cheers Michael

Frank Apple user for many years. In fact when I first got an email account to use with my first PowerBook I had to think of an email user name. MD(1400cs) Check out the name of my first laptop (:-) ha ha

Frank, Yes that lantern if SO perfect. My iWatch has been beeping this entire afternoon (PST) Now I understand why. (:-) Cheers Michael

George, Thanks for the link. The debate has to also do with actual tarring or not. The Vasa was not tarred when it sank. That was to presumably be done after all fittings were installed, and it was readied for sea duty. Also as you noted none of the Museum's lines are tarred. Though the main mast stay is served. Henry, yes of course, that makes sense. My confusion has to do with how actually lines were served back then. Did the craftsmen pre tar the serving ropes before spooling them to the shrouds? Which is why as asked that question - I just don't know about those details. In any case I will use brown thread. PS: My wife did not have any so I grabbed black ha ha Thanks for adding your thoughts.