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md1400cs

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Everything posted by md1400cs

  1. md1400cs
    Mark, I don't know how I missed this one? Hmmm now following along SO nice.. Will go back in a.m. with 2 no 3 coffees and catch up to page 1 (:-) Michael
  2. md1400cs
    Julie, SpyGlass is right-on. I have always had great success by pre-drilling the holes. Try a couple of bits first. Find one that allows the nail to be inserted with some resistance. Push it in with a micro flat file so that he head won't shift as you push it in. In fact I pre-almost all of my nails except for first plankings. I hope that this works for you. Michael
  3. md1400cs
    Rob/Mark There has been a revision to the 70s drawings. Still dated and probably with very minor changes. Oops I just noticed that two cannons are missing from the lower gun deck! Should I pull mine out ha ha. FYI: Second photo note the deck drain hole just below the kevel. and you can see a small hole on the other side as well from the deck. Michael
  4. md1400cs
    Tadeusz is correct. Nice pics as well Rob there are also deck drain holes for all three decks along each side of the hull. Look at your longitudinal museum sheet. (weather, upper and lower decks) they appear as squares with a black circle inside each square. The one you were asking about is also in the museum drawing right where it should be. Took me a while to even see that small detail. Your eyes are way ahead of mine (:-) Michael
  5. md1400cs
    Peter is correct. I needed to research this as well. As you know Corel puts a door there. Wrong.
  6. md1400cs
    Rob, Nice update. PS: Looking at photos of the 1/10th always makes me feel so insecure (:-) Michael
  7. md1400cs
    Frank, Yes !!! looking super excellent. I also love how you weathered the name on the stern. Looks SO real. Cheers, Michael
  8. md1400cs
    John, Yes indeed looking excellent. PS: Looking forward to In the Heart of the Sea
  9. md1400cs
    Lawrence, Thanks so much so appreciate your very nice post. Cheers, Michael
  10. md1400cs
    Mark, Thanks for the info regarding shroud diameters. I will follow your lead. I also agree Syren ropes are so excellent. Chuck's ropes will be used 100% to rig my ship. Your Fore-stay with the deadeyes at the bowsprit mast are so so nice. Looks perfect. I have also decided to keep the six hole deadeyes (already mounted) ==================== PS: regarding rope glue. Have you tried G-S Hypo cement? I have been using this glew for all rope applications including running a small bead at the tips ( thumb and fore-finger won't seize together as with CA as you twist and straighten the end) The dried glue disappears once dry on tan rope, and on black rope a tiny brush stroke of clear flat (model paint) also make any visible glue disappear. Available at Amazon and Michael's craft stores + others I'm sure Michael
  11. md1400cs
    Hi Mates, Thanks for the really nice words, "likes" or for just dropping by. Rob-Happy that you find my technique useful. BUT, if you decide to do the platforms this way, I will need to post a fix. I need to remove the lower ring and re-set the braces. I'll explain when I post an update. Peter-(:-) Joachim-Thanks, as always for your visits, as well as your always such encouraging thoughts. So sorry to read your post. Yes so lucky that you were all OK! Still this kind of an event is very sobering indeed. Many of us will be happy to see your updates with your stunning AV, one of the very best builds here at MSW. and with such a complicated ship. Regards Michael
  12. md1400cs
    Mark, Excellent work. Your shroud detailing at the mast tops is so nice. PS: what size Syren did you use for those shrouds .025? Michael
  13. md1400cs
    Just catching up. NICE update, excellent work, enjoyed your granddaughter's effort. A future MSW builder (:-) MIchael
  14. md1400cs
    John, YES just found your build log, indeed - BEAUTIFUL work. Congrats !! Michael
  15. md1400cs
    Thanks for the likes and thanks for dropping by and posting encouraging notes. (;-) Finishing up the fabrication of the foremast platform. •Trimmed down the lower braces before mounting the first ring •Then made the bits for the upper ring braces •Used a divider point to simulate the small nails for the lower braces •Installed the 18 vertical bits •Added the rings •Then with a rotary tool sanded down the protruding edges and tops +++++++++++++++++++++++ Next up, need to cut the 32 small bits to insert around periphery of the platform. Used the blue tape as a measure guide for all the cuts. This second platform was easier than the first (bowsprit) I learned through experimenting with the first one. The upper fore, and the three mains should be a smooth build section. Still mentally thinking of how to insert the shroud deadeyes and keeping the chainplate rope attachments within scale. Still a “?” I wonder if just wrapping lower the deadeyes in tarred rope and running those eight ropes through the large flat ring would be “OK” ?? However I believe that the last pic IS how it should be Hmmmm Again, thanks for dropping by. Michael
  16. md1400cs
    Rob, Thanks for sharing. Yes (:-) I do have this photo, but without the cute kids having fun. Michael
  17. md1400cs
    Rob, Learning is so much fun (;-) Again the Billings get's it right. Also the bobinette tips align correctly just below and adjacent to the lower part of the upper galleries. Almost an impossibility with the Corel. This photo is one of their promo pictures.
  18. md1400cs
    Frank, Nice work. great update - looking very good. Michael
  19. md1400cs
    John, Yes drawplates are a "pain" but necessary it seems. PS: Don't be eating too much "honeydo" I'm on that diet as well - ha ha MIchael
  20. md1400cs
    Mark, I posted some pics in your build log. Here is a pic from Clayton's - a good one. And one other from a Euro commercial builder. The four hole seems to be "the proper" way to go.
  21. md1400cs
    Mark, I found this from Calyton's. Also the Billings rigging sheets show what you have done. Hmmm OK time for dinner or after all this stress I may first need a cocktail (:-) )
  22. md1400cs
    Mark, GOOD eye. Here is an example of a European scratch built. I has sold commercially. This builder seems to be spot on with everything about this ship. I did not notice what you just posted. You are right Clayton's photos are hard so see regarding the lower block. I'm going to "look around" for poss. more info.
  23. md1400cs
    George, thanks you are always so encouraging. It seems that Corel released the Wasa before it had been resurrected. This is according to Ulises who also built the Corel version. His log is here as well. His rigging work is also spectacular, and he added sails. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/455-vasa-royal-ship-by-ulises-victoria-corel-scale-1-75/ Rob - So ... Corel's Vasa needs a butt lift ... and BB's Vasa needs a breast lift ... :-) - very funny. Yes the Vasa museum plans are excellent. I, as you might have noticed, have them as well. Another great source is this book; The Royal Warship VASA by Björn Landström. Out of print but wonderful drawings. Michael
  24. md1400cs
    Rob, Very nice. Thanks for sharing your goals. Very touching indeed. PS 2: you may want to build a file of your Billings fixes and contact them. They may be interested in connecting with you. The ship has a huge yearly following because of its status in Stockholm (I did visit the museum some years ago - Loved it) and should continue to be a big seller for them. Michael
  25. md1400cs
    RobZorba has been a bit frustrated in his log with the Billings Vasa stern measurements, and your ship looks so excellent. So I thought that I would re-visit the issues that I had with my Corel’s stern. Pic 1 – A PERFECT out-of-the-box build of Corel Wasa (beautiful work with the addition of sails). Euro builder it was for sale, and it did sell on the commercial market. Pic 2 – As it should look – and still does Pic 3 – My Corel out-of-the-box initial work Pic 4 -6 – My beginnings of a surgical fix Pics last three – after surgery and butt lift (still not “just right”) an improvement for sure. Lot’s of extra (should not have been needed) extra work J

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