overdale
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Everything posted by overdale
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I was sidetracked by a number of other projects Louie. It will be back on the table shortly and I will post an update. -
Frigate Boston by overdale - FINISHED
overdale replied to overdale's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
For those that are (still) interested, I received a couple of photos of Boston's new home. The client is an orthopedic surgeon and a keen woodworker. (No surprise really as he uses similar tools for both!) He built the exquisite table and base for the model as I was on the final stages of construction and finally married the two together last week. As you can see, the table is stunning. What can't be seen in the photos is the top of the baseboard is beautiful quartered and inlaid burr walnut panels. The Boston is somewhat overpowered by the reflections but I think it lets the beauty of the table stand alone. I will of course be getting better photos later but I can't imagine finer surroundings for my work than this. Dan.
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A true thing of beauty Nils. Well done it's a real credit to you.
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Lovely work Chuck, as always. What a strange camera effect. Reminds me of the old Tootsie Roll advert in Superman comics back in the day
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I'm afraid I don't have any photos Marc. I just drew out the sail plan including stitching patterns etc. to about a third or half the actual length on the tissue using brown colored pencil. The larger the sail the more length I included up to about half the length for the mainsail. The tissue was then stretched across an open cardboard box and washed with a dilute mix of yellow/brown ochre acrylic paint to stain it. Then when it dried, a wash of dilute white wood glue to seal it. When dry, cut out the sail with a scissors and tie to yard. wet with a spray of water which will make the sail completely soft and furl until you like how it looks. Tie the ropes quite tightly as they dig into the sails and make the 'canvas' look heavy. As the wood glue mix dries it hardens and the sail stays in the shape you tied it. Dan.
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I used silkspan for my 'Boston' sails. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12369-frigate-boston-by-overdale/page-4 Very easy to fold and probably the most convincing material available for smaller scales. Dan.
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Amen to that Chuck. I remember restoring a whaleship model from the 1920's that had been heavily sprayed with varnish/lacquer over decades. A few lines had detached and it look a fairly simple fix but some sort of chemical reaction had taken place and virtually every other line I touched was so brittle it crumbled if I so much as looked at it. I would also advocate the use of beeswax on line as it does offer some natural protection as well as keeping the 'fuzziness' at bay. Dan.
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If this were my model I would drill out the filled holes, scrape it down and refill with a lighter filler. Dan.
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Les, I build these things for a living and wouldn't dream of taking on a job that didn't allow me enough time to factor in 'burnout breaks'. I never work on any project continuously. I always take a break at regular intervals and go and do something else. I learned this a long time ago at art school so don't worry, you are not alone! Dan.
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Interesting to see the lavish use of pen and ink for the skylights and doors. Not seen that much these days. It's very effective but requires a steady hand. I suspect a lot of builders back then were proficient draughtsmen too and were more familiar with lining pens etc.
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Temporarily added the mast and bowsprit. Fitted framing on the rudder guards. Also fitted the shroud rails. Will give everything a coat of acrylic varnish shortly and then add the weathering 'wash'. Then paint all the rails etc. black.
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Antiquing a wooden ship
overdale replied to Bill Hime's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I had to 'antique' a ship model for a TV company a few years ago. After much experimenting we discovered the most effective results were with spaying the whole model with well thinned down wood stain (dark oak). The trick was not to spray regularly as if you were trying to paint it, but to use more random passes gradually building up the color to the level of age you want. It doesn't require a lot and is very effective. (on TV anyway) Dan. -
Ed, as I said to Janos, I don't think those friezes are carved so they are pretty easy to do. I generally trace or photo copy them from the plan and print them onto decal paper in my printer. You can paint them on the decal sheet and seal them with laquer before cutting them out and applying them to the frieze. In this case there looks to be some gold lettering involved so I will probably send the copies of the frieze work to a specialist who makes decals and can print them in gold ink. I can then add the shading etc. before I apply them. He usually does gold stern lettering for me for larger models so I doubt he'll have a problem with these. (PS. I went to art school for 3 years and I'm still using decals!) The stern lanterns are not to hard to source. Quite a few kit manufacturers make something that wouldn't be too hard to modify to suit. I consider these drawings as just 'concept sketches' there are no records that they were ever built so there is no need to slavishly follow the details. even if you do copy everything, you still wind up with a 'decorative' ship that probably didn't exist. Dan.
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Janos, I'm not sure I agree with you about the 'gingerbread carving' between the gun ports. I think it more likely to have been painted. If you take a look at John Franklin's excellent book 'Navy Board Ship Models 1650-1750' not one of the 17th century contemporary models that make up half the book has any carving on the frieze, they are without exception painted. The gun ports, head and stern are all beautifully carved so I doubt they didn't carve the friezes to save work, I suspect that the friezes were almost always painted. The exception being perhaps royal yachts etc. Dan.
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Having finally delivered my Frigate 'Boston' to it's new owner I am moving back to the late 17th century and about to start one of these two. (the one on the left) Bought from the NMM. Their online plans system seems very unwieldy to me. I pretty much found this plan by accident.! Dan.
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Very nice work Charlie. You have the makings of a very elegant model there. Dan.
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Lovely work Nils.. It's turning into a real beauty. Dan.
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Yes Steven I have seen it. Fascinating to compare the Limani model with the photo Druxey posted earlier in this thread of the contemporary Maltese fishing vessel. The similarities there are remarkable for being over a thousand years apart. I'm currently working on the masts. Should have some more photos shortly. Dan.
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Errr…. I refuse to go there..
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"Technically, we would not have these big waves on a river" The painting is indeed of a river port Yves, but I am not intending to show the ship on the river as my amphora was found in the sea. I merely took the details of the ship from the painting. These were also seagoing/coastal vessels as shown in Steven's photo taken from a Roman sarcophagus. As you can see, the waves there contain dolphins and are considerably larger than even those on my model. Dan.
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As an alternative to the tiled roof, I added a curved wooden roof that would have been covered in tar to waterproof it like below the waterline. Also added the hatch covers.The whole thing will of course be weathered so the colors won't be so strong when finished. Dan.
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Wood masts for a plastic model... Tips?
overdale replied to SomethingIsFishy's topic in Plastic model kits
Get yourself a pack of bamboo kebab skewers from the supermarket and a draw plate from Model Expo or Ebay. You can make some very passable small scale wooden masts with those. -
Yes, it will be square rigged.
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