mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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I think the answer is: "depends". Paints at that time were mixed by various folks and not pre-mixed like today so color would vary. Aging of the paint after painting would also mean that it's varied dependent upon when was the last time it was painted. I think the answer is basically... use what looks good to your eye.
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scissors, shears, cutters for rigging
mtaylor replied to palmerit's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I've tried nail clippers, razor blades, all the usual stuff. I finally bought a small "sewing scissor" from a fabric store. Works a charm. And I do NOT use it for anything else. -
Since I doubt you can remove the motor and lower it, I think your solution is a good one.
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Looking good, Gary. As for "cluttering up the workbench"... doesn't everyone do that?
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Hello with first question on my first build
mtaylor replied to Ratdude's topic in New member Introductions
That's a small signaling cannon probably then. Or something to make noise on certain holidays. -
Try PMing Igor. He was last on in the last 24 hours.
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Hull colour.
mtaylor replied to serpe's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Serpe, I think that's a choice you'll have make. From what I've read, the hull color could be white, black, or brown if wasn't coppered. It all depended on when and where the coating was re-applied. -
Hello with first question on my first build
mtaylor replied to Ratdude's topic in New member Introductions
Welcome to MSW. On the cannon... hmm.... How big is it? There are so-called "signal cannons" and there's also some pretty small ones designed to be fired off as basically noisemakers. -
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I know you feel strongly about your products and developments, Chris. But do take care of yourself. I'm hoping you start feeling better soon.
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I'm sorry to hear of all that happened over the holidays. I hope this is a better year. As for the cotton line..... painting it with the glue does seem to keep the humidity from affecting the ropes. It also makes them easier to "clean" off the dust on a finished model... a bit of blown dry air from a can does the trick.
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He does look comfortable and happy to be involved with you.
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Gap on flat bottom
mtaylor replied to WGibson's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
So it's a flat bottom hull. Hmm.... will anyone besides you ever see it? What I offered is truthfully described by the other as to issues. However, if you're painting it oar not, don't sweat it one way or the other as to fill or not fill. -
Welcome to MSW, Jim. I suggest you start a build log when you're ready to do the kit. It's probably the best way to get help and encouragement when you need it and you'll meet other modelers along the way.
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Hi Thom. I suggest you start a build log when you're ready to do the kit. It's probably the best way to get help and encouragement when you need it and you'll meet other modelers along the way.
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Getting tension right on the blade is bit a hit and miss type thing until you get a feel for it. Have scrap wood handy and tighten the blade so it's not "wobbly". Test. Tighten more if needed. If those are pin blades (pins at the top and bottom, you'll just have to test, test. With the none pin blades, they'll usually come loose when too tight. You'll eventually find the sweet spot. The other idea is to go to a seller of these saws or even a wood working shop and talk them. Sometimes they'll blow you off and other times, they'll help you out.
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JD, You might want to post that here: https://modelshipworld.com/#:~:text=Traders%2C Dealers%2C Buying or Selling anything%3F - Discuss New Products and Ship Model Goodies here as well!!
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Gap on flat bottom
mtaylor replied to WGibson's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I'd sand it down to get everything smooth. Same the sanding dust. Then brush a 50-50 mix of white glue and water and brush into the gap.doing one "line" at a time. Then take and spread the sanding dust into the cracks. Let dry. While it's drying, go to the next gap and do the same. When all are done, sand the entire deck. -
Adam, I'd add to the "builds character" with also "builds a creative vocabulary that turns the air blue".
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Where are you? Modelers Sawmill is in the U.S. In the EU is Hobbymill.EU. Both are sponsors here on MSW. Some of the kit suppliers also sell wood but I'n not mentally up to date on which ones.
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I have two "basic" sources for info.. There's others that some Googling will find. This ones a good basic intro. They appear to be reworking the site so more may be coming https://www.mini-lathe.com/mini_mill/introduction/introduction.htm And more detailed: https://www.littlemachineshop.com/info/getting_started.php?Chapter=GS_MiniMill_01.htm&d=0|2|13|
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