MrBlueJacket

You can also try Auto body putty. It is lacquer based and sands easily.

First order of business is to assemble the keel. The brass tubes for rudder and propeller are roughed up with sandpaper, and CA'd to the lite ply pre-cut pieces.

Let me start by saying the scale listed is just a guess - nowhere on the plans, box, or instructions is a scale given. The pilot house is 4" from the deck to the roof, so at 5/8" scale it would be 6"5". I'm calling it a reasonable guess!

This kit is from the 1980's, and the owner wants to see it finished. This should be a fun build. I can see some extra detailing, especially the interior. Although designed to be R/C, it will be a static model. The balsa wood hull side will be replaced with basswood for starters. Here's the kit contents:

Here's what the hull looks like after some aggressive sanding with 60 grit paper. No need to go any finer, the primer will fill the small sanding marks.

Then another coat of primer, and more putty. much less needed this time. If I'm lucky, maybe I won't need to do this a third time?

And after a quick shot of primer, comes time to get out the automotive putty and fill the cracks, dings, and unevenness. I'm probably going to have to do this a couple of times, at least!

So now the hull comes off the work-board so the exterior can be finished. First problem is how do I mask off the scuppers so the spray paint doesn't get into them? The answer is to use 1/16" square balsa wood. It is soft and can be forced into the opening.

The next step is to mask off the interior deck and bulwarks.

The next step is to add the waterways (1/32 x 3/32") I decided to pre-paint them, that way the deck to waterway edge is really crisp and perfect, without having to mask it off!

Here is the transom sanded to final shape.

And a view from the side. Now all that needs to be done is trim things up.

And here is the plywood cut and in place.

OK, now the transom. I made a template so I could get a tight fit against the bulwarks. the bottom is a little long.

Fitting the transom is next, but I took a side path and shaped the bowsprit - it was more fun than the transom!

Here are the bulwarks trimmed down to their final height. I used a Dremel saw attachment (carefully!) to trim it close, then sanded to the final lines I drew with a compass so it would follow the deck properly.

On 8/6/2018 at 10:32 AM, CPS_skybolt said:

Ron, You are right on . I didn't read far enough ahead in the instructions. I planked this like any other model I have made in the past. Instructions, instructions, instructions. I think I got it now.

 

Bob

Writing instructions can be a delicate balance between what you think someone buying a certain skill level kit should know, yet trying to help sidestep difficult construction details.

Also, what we think we said in the instructions is not always what they are interpreted as.

So with the deck done, I can attach the bulwarks. Still need to trim them down to the caprail level, but it's starting to look like a boat!

Chris, I agree. But my customer likes it.

So here's the template for the pounce wheel. 1" spacing, equal to about 5 1/3 feet (model is 3/16" = 1' scale) Note the bow is already pounced.

After pouncing the stern deck, I did a brown wash into the holes, quickly wiping the thinned paint off right away. A bit of overkill, but....

So I have the bulwarks ready to install. They are painted and have the scupper slot cut out. But before I install them, I am going to use a pounce wheel to simulate the deck treenails.

Thanks for answering, Chris.

Thanks for the deck compliments.

I forgot to mention that it is a sheet of pre-glued decking strips, so I can't take credit for anything but gluing the sheet down and trimming :)

The kit comes with scribed decking, but this looks so much better.

Got the deck on last night and trimmed it to fit this morning. Cockpit well was opened up with a dremel cylindrical sanding attachment.

Then to cut the plywood to the same shape. Needless to say, it took a bit of trial and error. But in the end, it is a good fit as you can see in the second picture. But before I glue it on, I need to put down the deck planking. Easier to trim first, rather than try to fit the deck on with the bulwarks in place.

So I had a little time to work on the MT again. here's a picture of paper taped onto the hull so I can trace the bottom line of the rabbet for the bulwarks.

Hi,

The grates are laser-cut pieces which are now part of the kit.

Nice job! Am I reading this correctly, you only started the kit this past Sunday? That's quick work.

Hi Ric,

The ships I build are for a purpose, (customer, gallery, etc) not just because I want to build a model. My current stack-up is:

rigging the USS Perry (new kit)

Mary Taylor (customer)

Coastal Schooner (new kit)

Lincolnville wherry (gallery)

 Liberty ship (gallery)

Red Jacket (gallery)

And interspersed are two repair jobs. I trust you understand. Maybe someone out there with an Alfred will step up to the plate?