MrBlueJacket

17 hours ago, Mjohn said:

Painting all those little parts by hand looks like a lot less fun though.   I'm going to try some enamel spray paint I picked up at a local Hobby Town.    Before painting I'm giving all the cast parts a bath in some mineral spirits to remove oil and anything else that might cause paint not to stick.   And in a wildly carefree moment, I'm considering not priming the parts....

If the parts are clean, no need to prime them. And for "considering not priming...." I call that inspired laziness, I do it all the time.

Nic

All seems OK. Remember, no-one will take a ruler to your hull and tell you it's 1/32" off !

Just a guess, but I've seen numerous examples of lines going to blocks on the deck, then up to a belaying point. I think it is because you can pull up with more force than you can pull down, being limited by your weight.

On 4/11/2023 at 2:09 PM, Roger Pellett said:

Nic,  A handsome model beautifully built as usual by the two of you.  A clipper brig might be appealing to customers without the display room or desire to build a Clipper Ship.  If MS no longer offers, perhaps add it to your line.

 

Roger

We already have the USS Perry, similar in size and complexity.

https://www.bluejacketinc.com/shop/model-ships/kits-model-ships/naval-vessels/uss-perry/

Lastly, the peak halyard blocks went on the mast.

It was a B***h to get the double sheet block tucked behind the wheelhouse. Attached with fine thread into an eyebolt.

Prepping the boom and gaff with blocks. I used 1/8" blocks, painted with dark tan and stropped with .010" wire.

Ratlines are all finished. Next I will do the furled main sail.

Good start, Tim. Look for a PM from me.

Nic

Eric, we have listened to your comments. Since you finished the model, your customer file now shows a 10% discount on the next kit you buy from us.

We have plans to build the Cairo in 3/16" = 1' scale (3x the size of this one) and it will be a longitudinal cut-away to show interior details.

Nic

The hulls "should" be a little oversized to allow the modeler to bring it down to the  final dimensions.

Nic

Try auto glazing putty or bondo or wall spackle. All 3 are relatively soft, stay away from carpenter's putties - they dry way too hard.

Nic

A little putty and sandpaper will make that hull nice and smooth. Stay away from the hard carpenter's fillers, use softer ones like auto glazing putty, bondo, or even wall spackle.

Nic

I would suggest against the Durham's putty - it dries VERY hard and it will be difficult to get a nice feathered edge with the basswood. Instead, try auto glazing putty, bondo, or wall spackle. that's what we use.

Nic

Congratulations! Under Daniels name, it now shows a 10% discount on the next kit you buy from us!  Well done!

Shrouds are finished, forestay is attached with bullseyes, and the ratlines begin again.......

Over the weekend, got the first pair of shrouds done on each side and started the second set of starboard shrouds. Then will come the forestay and more ratlines. notice the temporary forestay to keep the mast from leaning backwards as the shrouds pull in that direction.

Although it looks like a lot of leaning to port, when the shroud is tightened up on the starboard, it becomes perfect.

Now for the lower stays. To get the masts parallel, I must first pull the mast to port, so when I attach the starboard stay, it will pull back to where it should be.

View from the bow.

Finished all the upper ratlines, time to mount the foremast.

Nice case!

Over the w/e, started the fore topmast ratlines

1 hour ago, gak1965 said:

BlueJacket makes photoetch safety nets for the USS Arleigh Burke, which I think is the same scale. I thought that @MrBlueJacket mentioned elsewhere that it is possible to get parts that are in their kits (but not something that they routinely sell separately) by calling their office.

 

You might check this.

You are correct. We sell parts all t he time.

Nic

Last night finished the port main ratlines.

Keith, thanks for the tip. I wet the last inch of thread in CA glue, which makes it stiff, like a needle threader. Works great.