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Old Collingwood

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Posts posted by Old Collingwood

  1. Are you using a  "Bending Block"    with your heat Iron  for bending?    it should have come with your Iron,  it is such a useful tool  for getting tight turns with the planks.

     

    What I used to do with mine  was to soak the plank you want to fix  - say one on each corresponding side,  then when I t feels wet enough with a bit of bend to it  - pit it over the bend in the Bending Block  and using the heat from the Iron  push down gently in the  curve of the block  till the heat/steam gently pushes the plank down into the curve.   The key heare is not to push too hard  - Just go gentle and feel the bend , it  takes  a bit of getting used to  but it does work  - I have bent a near circle using the tighter of the bends in the Block.

     

    Give it a try.

     

    OC.

  2. Afternoon all,   I'm back   -  I decided to give my Chinook build a slight rest  while I do somemore work here  -  I decided to have a go at building the chap who was in overall control over the Farm  no less than  -  Major Georg von Baring, as he  stayed  "sted fast"  with his army  right through the battle for the farm.

     

    Pic off the net  showing him on his horse.

     

    OC.

    General.jpg

  3. Thanks for that James, I understand it now  when you take a photo  (thats anything different from a basic  lanscape (right way up)  mode  and manualy change it  before posting it here - it will  automatically  change back to the way the photo was taken, due  to the orientation  info in the exif,   a cure for this is to import the photo (first)  into a  photo editer  -  rotate it (alter it to tast)  then save as a new picture file, then  import the new altered picture file into here.

     

    OC.

  4. Hope its ok me jumping in here also?     I too am also experiencing some odd behaviour  with posting pictures, what happens with me sometimes  - I go into my pictures  on my HDD  flip any so they are horizontal in landscape mode, then when I drag and drop them  I find that  its been changed back to its upright  portrait mode, also  sometimes  the pictues are loaded upside down  despite me getting them the right way up in my picture folders before dragging them into here.

    Its odd because I never had this problem before.

     

    OC.

  5. Evening all,   I made some good progress today  -  I started on the rear roof area above the ramp, this area in the kit is a little bit bare of any detail, so after looking at some photos online  - some scratch building was called for,  so some card and a few other pieces  later  and I had a  plate to be glued to the roof,  I also added another one slightly smaller  - then a few coats of paint and a bit of shading  and this is the result.

     

    OC.

    IMG_0891.JPG

    IMG_0892.JPG

  6. 8 hours ago, lmagna said:

    Same here Mark. Heck, sometimes we didn't even bother with seats! And doors? Who needs stinking doors? (Well I do have to admit that we didn't often actually take them off.)

     

    But the two times I did fly in a Sh**hook it had not only jump seats just like these but belts as well. You also have to remember that as this is an OC build it is British and will be properly shipshape and Bristol fashion at all times!:D

     

    Looking nice OC

    Thank you Lou,   yep it was probably  a requirement  to amke sure they were tidy inside.

     

    OC.

  7. Evening all,    I  got some  good progress done today  - I finished  off attaching the the other folded seats  - then I glued both side walls  to the floor,   this was a fiddly operation getting the position right while not damaging the seats, I left them to set for a few hours  then I  located the roof part  - this was dry fitted and I soon dicovered it needed a bit of wiggling to get it to lign up with the lugs and wall edges,  after moving the side walls slightly  I was able to glue the roof down  - while positioning it while the glue was setting.

    So this is the inner section boxed together   just needs some detail painting to the inner ramp roof area, before I can fit both outer sides.

     

    OC.

    IMG_0888.JPG

    IMG_0887.JPG

  8. On 10/23/2020 at 12:24 AM, Canute said:

    H, that should be a good glue. You'll find you may at times also use white glue. And sometimes super glue/CA. They all have their uses in wooden models. Read the various logs and see what others are using for a given situation. Ask them why they do what they do in a given situation. We all learn a lot by participation in these logs.

    Good advice Ken -  you have covered all there  is realy.

     

    OC.

  9. 8 hours ago, VTHokiEE said:

    I picked up a rope walk from Syren a little while ago and in order to postpone tapering the mast I put it together and tried my hand at making some rope today. I wanted to replace the anchor rope (really I may end up replacing all the rope either with my own or some from Syren for consistency) because it was a significantly different color than the rest of the rope I will be using. I wanted to end up with about 1.6mm rope so I used Chuck's Mara recipe for .055" (~1.4mm) rope as a starting point, but I ended up closer to 0.047" so I tried again using the 0.065" (~1.65mm)  recipe as a starting point and got much closer, 0.06" or ~1.52mm. I'm still debugging the process a little (my rope unwinds even after baking so I'm asking Chuck what I did wrong). The darker brown rope in the pictures in the kit supplied anchor rope.

    HM_Alert_Vanguard_0130.jpg.b8db97cabde0c2c8539074349324c6a9.jpg

    HM_Alert_Vanguard_0132.jpg.475707ce1631a2c154970d6332970c9e.jpg

    What I would be tempted to do with the end fraying is to keep it taut  then serve it with fine thread  near where you want the end to be to stop it fraying,    you would only have to do about 5 -10mm.

     

    OC.

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