Jump to content

shipaholic

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    532

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by shipaholic

  1. shipaholic
    Yes I agree with Druxey. I could not see a way of doing it easily with a lathe or some othe power tool. Its just down to a lot of sanding and filing. The complex shape of the masts means it needs to be done manually and carefully, see the pic below, the mast is tapered and filed flat on both sides for the cheeks and hounds to sit flat. I used small sanding blocks to do the tapering and flat files to do the square section at the top, which also has to be tapered. Always refer to the plans to make sure the tapers and dimensions are correct.
  2. shipaholic
  3. shipaholic
    The Mary Celeste was built in 1861 so she would have had tops similar to the clippers etc of the same era such as Cutty Sark here are some pics I could find
  4. shipaholic
    Bill, Picture of a Marie Celeste model
  5. shipaholic
    This draught is the one showing the Earl of Pembroke before refit with the proposed changes. Notice that the channels are shorter with one less deadeye on the fore and main channels
  6. shipaholic
    I must finish this thing and take some decent photos
  7. shipaholic
    More confirmation that the mizzen channels were the same width as the main channel is indicated on this original draught, which is the one I used to base my model on. The chains are the same length from channel to the hull indicating that the main and mizzen channels are the same width. There is another draught that everyone tends to use which has a different arrangement of the rails and has shorter chains on the mizzen indicating a narrower mizzen channel, but I believe that draught is not the correct one. That draught was used as a reference by AOTS In the photo of my model it appears that the mizzen channel sits back from the mast but that is just the camera angle playing tricks with perspective. The front deadeye of each channel is in line with the rear of the mast as in the drawing Cheers
  8. shipaholic
    Yes Dave I made my mizzen channels the same width as the fore and main ones. The mizzen shrouds are the correct distance away from the quarter deck rail. I think Caldercraft are following the drawings in the AOTS book which show much narrower mizzen channels. That book has many mistakes, Cheers Steve
  9. shipaholic
    As you say Dave the channels should all be the same width and the mizzen the correct height otherwise the mizzen shrouds will foul against the Quarter deck rail
  10. shipaholic
    Nice looking model, congrats for finishing
  11. shipaholic
    The correct height for a mizzen lower mast is that the top of the mizzen cap is level with the main mast top. Many models of Endeavour including the full size replica have a shorter mizzenmast which is not correct
  12. shipaholic
    Hi Schubbe The thin planks are okay, as long as you clamp them down at regular intervals. If you notice in my pics I just used pins and scrap pieces of wood. I used PVA glue and a spot of CA glue every 30mm. I marked the position of the main wale by measuring off the original draughts (scaled to 1:52) then started the planking from the lower edge of the wale
  13. shipaholic
    More planking pics
  14. shipaholic
    Okay Schubbe here are some more pics. The planks are thin and dont like the upward curvature, they tend to want to kink so lots of clamping to keep them flat whilst the glue sets. I used PVA with a spot of CA every 30 cm. Also here are pics of the transom I made instead of using the supplied one and how it should be at the side of the stern, so that the decorations sit properly. I later modified it a bit above the figurine
  15. shipaholic
    Your build looks great so far, great attention to detail. I have built this model and like you, I made a new transom because I didn't like the shape of it nor the position of the windows. I made the windows see-through using clear plastic.
  16. shipaholic
    Funny how I'm nearly finished and I have lost interest a bit, its been 10 long years, but today i did a bit more and I will finish her in the next month or so
  17. shipaholic
    Wow, excellent work Eugenio, you have built it exactly how the instructions describe and it looks great. One small detail, the holes for the belaying pins should be a little larger so they sit down further on the bulge in the middle of them Cheers Steve
  18. shipaholic
    Hi Umberto There is a piece blocking the rudder at this stage, indicated by the arrows below, it is enclosed by the two pieces no. 57 Later on in the build you are required to drill that section out with a 4mm drill to be able to insert the rudder post Cheers Steve
  19. shipaholic
    Most of the running rigging completed, still need the bunt lines, leech lines and bowlines. Debating whether to put them on, maybe I will just leave off the bowlines. Next job is making the boats
  20. shipaholic
    Continuing with the sheets/tack/clew lines and the stay tackles
  21. shipaholic
    Arrangement of the main course sheets. I did a bit of research to work out the best way to do the main course sheets. Because I have arranged the rails as depicted on the original 1768 draughts there are no bitts under the quarter deck rails. I looked at pictures of a few different Endeavour models in museums, both with and without those bitts and also checked qite a few reference books for how the sheets are set up. This is how I have set it up, I added a cleat to the bulwark and a block attached to the rail stanchion. Instead of hitching the standing part of the sheet to an eyebolt just forward of the mizzen channel, I hitched it to the fore mizzen chain to get it out from the hull a bit so the sheet line doesn't foul with the main shrouds so much when raised.
  22. shipaholic
    Progress is slow but I am nearing completion of the rigging
  23. shipaholic
    Today's update, slowly getting the rigging done
  24. shipaholic
    Finally got all the yards "dressed" with blocks and now working through adding all the running rigging
  25. shipaholic
    I am still working on dressing all the yardarms with the various blocks, pendants and footropes, and fitting various blocks to the rigging. Once all the blocks are in place I will install the running rigging

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...