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shipaholic
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What is the name for the netting under the bowsprit
shipaholic replied to HKC's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Hi Pat Here is a pic of the spritsail net on the de-rigged replica, if it helps Steve
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Hi Dave Re the tiller Here is a pic of how I set my tiller up, I didn't fit blocks to the tiller like shown in the AOTS, I set it up like the full size replica. I cannot get my rudder to go hard over but I don't think it would foul with the chimney. The other pic is from the April 1768 draughts showing the "arch", its also shown on two other draughts so the arch definately exists. Cheers Steve
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Nice work Dave, I did the same thing two different style pumps for the reason you stated. Actually the original pumps are shown on the draughts done before the refit, and their position is shown on the deck plans. In the photo you can see the pumps on a ship model from the same period as Endeavour, they look similar to the ones on the draughts.
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Haha yes Paul I did exactly the same thing, when I was a teenager I spent a couple of weeks building a free flight glider. First flight I towed it up like a kite using a fishing line. It got into a thermal and just kept going up up and away, never saw it again despite chasing after it in a car with my dad. Anyway heres a pic of the ship, ready to fit the ratlines
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Yes I did the same thing, spent a week building my first plane went out to fly it and crashed it in about 5 seconds. After a few crashes I got the hang of it, then a couple of years later I stepped up to radio control and same thing, a few crashed planes before I got good at it. It's a hobby that gives you lots of building practice.
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Hi guys Sorry my memory failed me, it was a couple of years ago, it wasn't Spakfilla, it was an acrylic filler in a tub that I bought from Bunnings. Similar thing, plaster based
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Thanks clogger I chose the colour scheme for a couple of reasons. I wanted my Endeavour to look like like an 18th century Admiralty model, hence the fairly light shade of the side planks and no white bottom. I also studied lots of old paintings of ships of this period in the 18th century. Marquardt In the AOTS book states that the bottom was covered in "brown stuff" not painted with white lead, so in that respect painting the bottom of the hull would be wrong anyway. A lot of Endeavour builders try to make them look like the full size replica vessel, but I am not. Its the builder's choice. For filler on the first planks I used spakfilla, I sanded the first planks fairly agressively (thats what theyre for) so I only needed to use filler where there were depressions. See pics below. Cheers Steve
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Thanks Mike I wondered why you hadn't posted in a while. I used to make those plastic aeroplane models, and ships, even rockets and a lunar module when I was a kid, yeah the painting is the hardest part. That led me into the flying planes, building balsa wood planes and crashing them a lot. Then I built a couple of larger plastic ship models, the Revell USS Consitution, and the Revell Cutty Sark. I still have the Constitution. My mum still has the small scale plastic ships I built as a kid on her wall unit -theres a Mayflower, Bounty, Constitution and Victory. Cheers Steve
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Its been a few weeks since I did anything, but I managed to get a few hours in this weekend. Finished doing the mizzen catharpins and futtock shrouds then I blackened the rest of the shrouds. I used flat black enamel diluted with turpentine to make it wick through the rope better and not be too black so it looks nore like real tarred rope
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Have a look through my build log there are a few photos of my shrouds being done, might help. Cheers Steve
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Hi Chris As Paul said the Endeavour is a hard hull to plank because of the boxy shape. If you look at my build log on page 1 and 3 you will see that I needed to use a lot of stealers and tapered planks. The top layer planks are thin so they don't like curving laterally, therefore I just let them lay how they best could on the darker lower planks. For the sides above the main wale I wanted to simulate the upwards curve of planks on a real ship and it was a real task, when you try to curve them laterally they want to kink and buckle and it's hard to keep them flat against the hull until the glue sets. I had to use lots of clamps to keep the planks from buckling, fitting one plank at a time then waiting for the glue to set. Cheers Steve
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Hi Chris I have always planked my models starting at the main wale and working down, letting the lay of the planks determine where to trim or use stealers Cheers Steve
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Hi Dave Nice work. About the belaying pins, even at 1:51 scale its hard to get wood ones that don't look too fat. I purchased some brass ones and blackened them, not quite the right colour but at least they look better scale-wise because they are thinner Cheers Steve
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I have built the AL Endeavour and am currently building the partwork equivalent of the Occre. The AL was twenty years ago so the kit has changed a bit. The Occre is bigger in size but the wood and a lot of the fittings are poor quality. If you value the look of nice walnut then the preference is the AL, if you want to paint the model then the Occre may be better. Cheers Steve
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OMG theres no way I would try to do hinges for those shutters at 1:51, and you have done it at 1:60, nice job Dave
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Hi Ron This Occre model is the same as the one I am building, and I am positive that the scale is 1:51, and Pat is right royal navy ratlines were usually 13 inches apart. So the spacing should be 13 x 2.54 = 330mm divided by scale (51) equals 6.5mm Re the catharpins, I don't know how fussy you want to be but I served mine all over, but the important thing is to get them all exactly the same length so that they all pull equally tight when the topmast shrouds via the futtock shrouds put tension on them by wanting to spread the lower shrouds. I made the catharpins with an eye at each end then tied them to the futtock staves with thin cotton. Cheers Steve
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Hi Max Some really good work you have done. One thing puzzles me, your foremast is much shorter than the mainmast. I believe the foremast should be only slightly shorter, maybe there is a mistake in the plans somewhere (yes it happens) I wonder if the Occre plans are the same as the ones I have. (Same model different brand) Cheers Steve
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Hi Ron I did a post on this in page 17 of my log. I believe there are 7 shrouds and one top mast back stay. I believe this due to the angles of the deadeye chains on the 1768 droughts. Cheers Steve
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Hi I looked up the pic of The Bounty anchor and it looks like a typical admiralty design from that period, it is missing the wooden stock that it would have had. With the stock It would have looked very similar to this one from the HMS Sirius from the same era Cheers Steve
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Thanks Chris, there are a few other really good Endeavour builds on here for you to gain insights from too Steve
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Latest pics, main futtock shrouds done now working on the mizzen ones. I have started "tarring" the shrouds and stays
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Waterlines and Wales
shipaholic replied to Cabbie's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
It is strange that the waterline and wale positions are not on your plans, I built the AL Endeavour (a long time ago) and there was a plan showing the side view. Here is a photo of the original draught maybe you can judge from this where the wales and water line are. I think that its very important to get the position and curve of the wales correct as it determines the whole look of the ship.
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Yes the mizzen stay is set up with a deadeye. The standing rigging will be painted black to simulate tarring, I find that the paint stiffens the shrouds nicely making it easier to fit the rat lines.
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I haven't done anything on the ship for a few weeks, I've been otherwise occupied. Today I manged to get the mizzen stay made. Notice the difference to how its set up in the AOTS, I won't be fitting the staysail stay as shown in the AOTS either.
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