Don

I ordered the last 3 books that I wanted from Seawatch about 2 weeks ago.  Received all 3 in about 10 days could not believe I received them that quickly.  Wasn't really expecting them until sometime in February.  I guess I was lucky, had stuff bounce around the postal system for a month.
 
Don

I ordered the last 3 books that I wanted from Seawatch about 2 weeks ago.  Received all 3 in about 10 days could not believe I received them that quickly.  Wasn't really expecting them until sometime in February.  I guess I was lucky, had stuff bounce around the postal system for a month.
 
Don

As far as I know there are no programs that will give you a 100% conversion without some manual touch up.  I found it was easier to scan what you want insert the scan directly into CAD, scale it, and trace over the underlay.  On bulkheads and frames etc you only have to trace half and mirror the other side.  This way you can correct any errors in the original.
 
Don

As far as I know there are no programs that will give you a 100% conversion without some manual touch up.  I found it was easier to scan what you want insert the scan directly into CAD, scale it, and trace over the underlay.  On bulkheads and frames etc you only have to trace half and mirror the other side.  This way you can correct any errors in the original.
 
Don

Doug,
 
EMC2 and Linux are open source software, you should be able to upgrade to a newer version without any cost.  I am not real familiar with either thou but I am sure an Internet search would give you all the info needed.  I use mach3 for my control software which is windows based and very popular with hobby and small shops. The important thing about both programs is they are based on old hardware platforms specifically the 25 pin parallel port.  An old computer with the parallel port on board is an advantage.  If you use a newer computer with no parallel port you will need to convert the USB signal to pulse signal for the 25 pin parallel port that goes to the stepper drivers. The timing of these signals is what allows you to control direction and speed in all directions at the same time.  You would think that it would as easy as using an USB to parallel converter but it's not.  You need special converter or a separate breakout board (such as smooth stepper).  Also just sticking in a parallel card in the computer is a hit and miss, I don't know about the new Linux platforms but the new Windows OS do not support parallel ports the way the old OS did.  Whether you have an box that plugs directly into an USB or an Ethernet port all of the stuff I just mentioned is built into the box.  From that hardware, whether in a separate box or built into a computer, this is what you connect your stepper cables to.
 
You do not need a new processor to run these programs.  I use an old Pentium 4 with Windows XP that is over 10 years old.  Will I  have to eventually upgrade, yes but not until this computer dies.  The main reason is that I would have to buy a USB motion control breakout box and reload and setup up the software.
 
Yes you can use a CNC machine manually.  There are a number of ways:  handles on the stepper shaft,. keyboard, joystick, and a pendant (MPG (manual pulse generator)).  A pendant is the easiest. All the axis, speeds, steps etc. can be controlled by this hand held unit.
 
What also is important is the spindle speed.  Getting something up to 10000 rpm is nice especially since you will be using smaller cutters.  
 
I should say I don't own the Sherline I have a Taig CNC mill, but all these hobby type CNC machine are all basically the same.  They use steppers, stepper drivers, control software (almost alway EMC2 or mach3), and a PC.  You also need software to draw you part and software to generate g-code.  Note Fusion is free for non commercial use. 
 
I am by no means an expert.   My son has his own small engineering and CNC manufacturing business, so when he needs the extra help I operate one of the large mills (these are not hobby mill but the principle is the same) so this gives me some practice at what not to do.  If I get in trouble I just find him that's the nice thing about being free help, but I have learned a lot by helping and watching him trouble shot.
 
Don
 

Doug,
 
Speeds and feeds for milling whether manual or CNC can be tricky.  It depends on many factors material, bit size, spindle speed, feed rate and the bit type (carbide, HSS, number of flutes) whether drill, end mill etc. and chip clearance.  Check out some speed and feed calculators online to give you some ideas.
 
The the short answer for the slower rpm is you can use HSS bits to cut hard material such as stainless or tool steel.  If you switch to a carbide bit you can increase your spindle speed and feed rate without burning up the bit and get a good finish. In our hobby work we usually work with softer materials such as wood, brass, plastic etc. so the slower speeds aren't as important. You also have to keep in mind many of these calculators may assume you are using a coolant which you will not be using.  
 
A easy visual of this is using a hand router.  Move the router to fast it starts tearing out and leaves a rough surface, to fast and you burn the wood and bit. 
 
Keep in mind we are doing this for a hobby to have fun.  In the end you will probably use the higher end of the spindle speed with some carbide bits and adjust you feed rate to match.  
 
Don

Doug,
 
Speeds and feeds for milling whether manual or CNC can be tricky.  It depends on many factors material, bit size, spindle speed, feed rate and the bit type (carbide, HSS, number of flutes) whether drill, end mill etc. and chip clearance.  Check out some speed and feed calculators online to give you some ideas.
 
The the short answer for the slower rpm is you can use HSS bits to cut hard material such as stainless or tool steel.  If you switch to a carbide bit you can increase your spindle speed and feed rate without burning up the bit and get a good finish. In our hobby work we usually work with softer materials such as wood, brass, plastic etc. so the slower speeds aren't as important. You also have to keep in mind many of these calculators may assume you are using a coolant which you will not be using.  
 
A easy visual of this is using a hand router.  Move the router to fast it starts tearing out and leaves a rough surface, to fast and you burn the wood and bit. 
 
Keep in mind we are doing this for a hobby to have fun.  In the end you will probably use the higher end of the spindle speed with some carbide bits and adjust you feed rate to match.  
 
Don

Doug,
 
EMC2 and Linux are open source software, you should be able to upgrade to a newer version without any cost.  I am not real familiar with either thou but I am sure an Internet search would give you all the info needed.  I use mach3 for my control software which is windows based and very popular with hobby and small shops. The important thing about both programs is they are based on old hardware platforms specifically the 25 pin parallel port.  An old computer with the parallel port on board is an advantage.  If you use a newer computer with no parallel port you will need to convert the USB signal to pulse signal for the 25 pin parallel port that goes to the stepper drivers. The timing of these signals is what allows you to control direction and speed in all directions at the same time.  You would think that it would as easy as using an USB to parallel converter but it's not.  You need special converter or a separate breakout board (such as smooth stepper).  Also just sticking in a parallel card in the computer is a hit and miss, I don't know about the new Linux platforms but the new Windows OS do not support parallel ports the way the old OS did.  Whether you have an box that plugs directly into an USB or an Ethernet port all of the stuff I just mentioned is built into the box.  From that hardware, whether in a separate box or built into a computer, this is what you connect your stepper cables to.
 
You do not need a new processor to run these programs.  I use an old Pentium 4 with Windows XP that is over 10 years old.  Will I  have to eventually upgrade, yes but not until this computer dies.  The main reason is that I would have to buy a USB motion control breakout box and reload and setup up the software.
 
Yes you can use a CNC machine manually.  There are a number of ways:  handles on the stepper shaft,. keyboard, joystick, and a pendant (MPG (manual pulse generator)).  A pendant is the easiest. All the axis, speeds, steps etc. can be controlled by this hand held unit.
 
What also is important is the spindle speed.  Getting something up to 10000 rpm is nice especially since you will be using smaller cutters.  
 
I should say I don't own the Sherline I have a Taig CNC mill, but all these hobby type CNC machine are all basically the same.  They use steppers, stepper drivers, control software (almost alway EMC2 or mach3), and a PC.  You also need software to draw you part and software to generate g-code.  Note Fusion is free for non commercial use. 
 
I am by no means an expert.   My son has his own small engineering and CNC manufacturing business, so when he needs the extra help I operate one of the large mills (these are not hobby mill but the principle is the same) so this gives me some practice at what not to do.  If I get in trouble I just find him that's the nice thing about being free help, but I have learned a lot by helping and watching him trouble shot.
 
Don
 

Doug,
 
EMC2 and Linux are open source software, you should be able to upgrade to a newer version without any cost.  I am not real familiar with either thou but I am sure an Internet search would give you all the info needed.  I use mach3 for my control software which is windows based and very popular with hobby and small shops. The important thing about both programs is they are based on old hardware platforms specifically the 25 pin parallel port.  An old computer with the parallel port on board is an advantage.  If you use a newer computer with no parallel port you will need to convert the USB signal to pulse signal for the 25 pin parallel port that goes to the stepper drivers. The timing of these signals is what allows you to control direction and speed in all directions at the same time.  You would think that it would as easy as using an USB to parallel converter but it's not.  You need special converter or a separate breakout board (such as smooth stepper).  Also just sticking in a parallel card in the computer is a hit and miss, I don't know about the new Linux platforms but the new Windows OS do not support parallel ports the way the old OS did.  Whether you have an box that plugs directly into an USB or an Ethernet port all of the stuff I just mentioned is built into the box.  From that hardware, whether in a separate box or built into a computer, this is what you connect your stepper cables to.
 
You do not need a new processor to run these programs.  I use an old Pentium 4 with Windows XP that is over 10 years old.  Will I  have to eventually upgrade, yes but not until this computer dies.  The main reason is that I would have to buy a USB motion control breakout box and reload and setup up the software.
 
Yes you can use a CNC machine manually.  There are a number of ways:  handles on the stepper shaft,. keyboard, joystick, and a pendant (MPG (manual pulse generator)).  A pendant is the easiest. All the axis, speeds, steps etc. can be controlled by this hand held unit.
 
What also is important is the spindle speed.  Getting something up to 10000 rpm is nice especially since you will be using smaller cutters.  
 
I should say I don't own the Sherline I have a Taig CNC mill, but all these hobby type CNC machine are all basically the same.  They use steppers, stepper drivers, control software (almost alway EMC2 or mach3), and a PC.  You also need software to draw you part and software to generate g-code.  Note Fusion is free for non commercial use. 
 
I am by no means an expert.   My son has his own small engineering and CNC manufacturing business, so when he needs the extra help I operate one of the large mills (these are not hobby mill but the principle is the same) so this gives me some practice at what not to do.  If I get in trouble I just find him that's the nice thing about being free help, but I have learned a lot by helping and watching him trouble shot.
 
Don
 

Doug,
 
EMC2 and Linux are open source software, you should be able to upgrade to a newer version without any cost.  I am not real familiar with either thou but I am sure an Internet search would give you all the info needed.  I use mach3 for my control software which is windows based and very popular with hobby and small shops. The important thing about both programs is they are based on old hardware platforms specifically the 25 pin parallel port.  An old computer with the parallel port on board is an advantage.  If you use a newer computer with no parallel port you will need to convert the USB signal to pulse signal for the 25 pin parallel port that goes to the stepper drivers. The timing of these signals is what allows you to control direction and speed in all directions at the same time.  You would think that it would as easy as using an USB to parallel converter but it's not.  You need special converter or a separate breakout board (such as smooth stepper).  Also just sticking in a parallel card in the computer is a hit and miss, I don't know about the new Linux platforms but the new Windows OS do not support parallel ports the way the old OS did.  Whether you have an box that plugs directly into an USB or an Ethernet port all of the stuff I just mentioned is built into the box.  From that hardware, whether in a separate box or built into a computer, this is what you connect your stepper cables to.
 
You do not need a new processor to run these programs.  I use an old Pentium 4 with Windows XP that is over 10 years old.  Will I  have to eventually upgrade, yes but not until this computer dies.  The main reason is that I would have to buy a USB motion control breakout box and reload and setup up the software.
 
Yes you can use a CNC machine manually.  There are a number of ways:  handles on the stepper shaft,. keyboard, joystick, and a pendant (MPG (manual pulse generator)).  A pendant is the easiest. All the axis, speeds, steps etc. can be controlled by this hand held unit.
 
What also is important is the spindle speed.  Getting something up to 10000 rpm is nice especially since you will be using smaller cutters.  
 
I should say I don't own the Sherline I have a Taig CNC mill, but all these hobby type CNC machine are all basically the same.  They use steppers, stepper drivers, control software (almost alway EMC2 or mach3), and a PC.  You also need software to draw you part and software to generate g-code.  Note Fusion is free for non commercial use. 
 
I am by no means an expert.   My son has his own small engineering and CNC manufacturing business, so when he needs the extra help I operate one of the large mills (these are not hobby mill but the principle is the same) so this gives me some practice at what not to do.  If I get in trouble I just find him that's the nice thing about being free help, but I have learned a lot by helping and watching him trouble shot.
 
Don
 

I have a Taig CNC mill, the CNC machines have a bigger motor than the manual mill and also can run up to 10000 RPM.  I believe you can have them put the larger motor on the manual machine.  The Taig mills are a little bigger and heavier than the Sherline.  The most common accessories like tilt table and the rotary table can be adapted for use on the Taig.  I have the Sherline rotary CNC table and use it with the Taig.  There are some differences in the manual and CNC versions of the Taig mill so look carefully if you compare the two.  
 
I agree with Jim on the 3 flute end mill.  My some son has his own custom machining and engineering business and he uses 3 flute end mills most of the time.  With these you can get a smooth cut while being able to clear the chips.  We also only use carbide.
 
Like most have said you can mill something small on a large machine but not the other way around.  That being said I have a Taig mill and lathe, the lathe I have set up for CNC or manual operation and a Unimat 3 that I have most of the accessories.  These are the machines I have set up where I work on model building.  I also have at my disposal my sons equipment which includes 2 VMC machines the large one comes in at about 13000 lbs and the smaller one at about 10000 lbs.  A bit of over kill for modeling to say the least.
 
The point being, I really never use any of the big equipment for modeling purposes I can get more than acceptable results for modeling from these small machines.  The only time I use the larger equipment is for making something for the smaller machines (like a tooling plate).  The important thing is keeping the working parts clean and maintained.  Accuracy is only as good as the setup and aligning of the machine itself. These small machines can be extremely accurate if set up properly.  An example in how accurate some of these small machines can be; I did the final op for 10 custom cam parts for my kids business over the weekend.  We needed to get the total runout and one final dimension tolerance of 0.0005" I was able to do it with my Unimat 3 which is over 30 years old.  I only had to take off 0.005", it took longer to do the setup than turn the parts.  The catch is the entire part was milled in one in the large VMC mills except for one dimension he left 0.005" oversized. He milled 12 parts in a couple of hours (couple of extra if I screwed up and I did scrap one) it took me 4 hours to set and turn off the final 0.005".  But on the small manual lathe I was able to set up multiple test indicators to guarantee that each part was in spec before we shipped.  This is something we DON'T do on a regular bases, but gives an example of accuracy and capability of a good small machine.  If we had to do these parts on my small equipment both my son and I would be able to collect social security before we finished. 
 
The above example is way past what would ever be needed for any ship modeling. So pick a machine that fits your space, budget and needs. Then add in the tooling and accessories which will be as much as the machine.  Sherline, Taig or a good Chinese machine would work for the small work required for modeling also at least 5000 RPM if able.  Doing anything bigger than that, then a machine that is heavier and more ridged is better.  
 
Somewhere on the sight in scratch builds, a guy uses a Taig CNC mill to do some fantastic stuff I can't remember which log though it's worth a look if you can find the log.  
 
Don

I have a Taig CNC mill, the CNC machines have a bigger motor than the manual mill and also can run up to 10000 RPM.  I believe you can have them put the larger motor on the manual machine.  The Taig mills are a little bigger and heavier than the Sherline.  The most common accessories like tilt table and the rotary table can be adapted for use on the Taig.  I have the Sherline rotary CNC table and use it with the Taig.  There are some differences in the manual and CNC versions of the Taig mill so look carefully if you compare the two.  
 
I agree with Jim on the 3 flute end mill.  My some son has his own custom machining and engineering business and he uses 3 flute end mills most of the time.  With these you can get a smooth cut while being able to clear the chips.  We also only use carbide.
 
Like most have said you can mill something small on a large machine but not the other way around.  That being said I have a Taig mill and lathe, the lathe I have set up for CNC or manual operation and a Unimat 3 that I have most of the accessories.  These are the machines I have set up where I work on model building.  I also have at my disposal my sons equipment which includes 2 VMC machines the large one comes in at about 13000 lbs and the smaller one at about 10000 lbs.  A bit of over kill for modeling to say the least.
 
The point being, I really never use any of the big equipment for modeling purposes I can get more than acceptable results for modeling from these small machines.  The only time I use the larger equipment is for making something for the smaller machines (like a tooling plate).  The important thing is keeping the working parts clean and maintained.  Accuracy is only as good as the setup and aligning of the machine itself. These small machines can be extremely accurate if set up properly.  An example in how accurate some of these small machines can be; I did the final op for 10 custom cam parts for my kids business over the weekend.  We needed to get the total runout and one final dimension tolerance of 0.0005" I was able to do it with my Unimat 3 which is over 30 years old.  I only had to take off 0.005", it took longer to do the setup than turn the parts.  The catch is the entire part was milled in one in the large VMC mills except for one dimension he left 0.005" oversized. He milled 12 parts in a couple of hours (couple of extra if I screwed up and I did scrap one) it took me 4 hours to set and turn off the final 0.005".  But on the small manual lathe I was able to set up multiple test indicators to guarantee that each part was in spec before we shipped.  This is something we DON'T do on a regular bases, but gives an example of accuracy and capability of a good small machine.  If we had to do these parts on my small equipment both my son and I would be able to collect social security before we finished. 
 
The above example is way past what would ever be needed for any ship modeling. So pick a machine that fits your space, budget and needs. Then add in the tooling and accessories which will be as much as the machine.  Sherline, Taig or a good Chinese machine would work for the small work required for modeling also at least 5000 RPM if able.  Doing anything bigger than that, then a machine that is heavier and more ridged is better.  
 
Somewhere on the sight in scratch builds, a guy uses a Taig CNC mill to do some fantastic stuff I can't remember which log though it's worth a look if you can find the log.  
 
Don

I have a Taig CNC mill, the CNC machines have a bigger motor than the manual mill and also can run up to 10000 RPM.  I believe you can have them put the larger motor on the manual machine.  The Taig mills are a little bigger and heavier than the Sherline.  The most common accessories like tilt table and the rotary table can be adapted for use on the Taig.  I have the Sherline rotary CNC table and use it with the Taig.  There are some differences in the manual and CNC versions of the Taig mill so look carefully if you compare the two.  
 
I agree with Jim on the 3 flute end mill.  My some son has his own custom machining and engineering business and he uses 3 flute end mills most of the time.  With these you can get a smooth cut while being able to clear the chips.  We also only use carbide.
 
Like most have said you can mill something small on a large machine but not the other way around.  That being said I have a Taig mill and lathe, the lathe I have set up for CNC or manual operation and a Unimat 3 that I have most of the accessories.  These are the machines I have set up where I work on model building.  I also have at my disposal my sons equipment which includes 2 VMC machines the large one comes in at about 13000 lbs and the smaller one at about 10000 lbs.  A bit of over kill for modeling to say the least.
 
The point being, I really never use any of the big equipment for modeling purposes I can get more than acceptable results for modeling from these small machines.  The only time I use the larger equipment is for making something for the smaller machines (like a tooling plate).  The important thing is keeping the working parts clean and maintained.  Accuracy is only as good as the setup and aligning of the machine itself. These small machines can be extremely accurate if set up properly.  An example in how accurate some of these small machines can be; I did the final op for 10 custom cam parts for my kids business over the weekend.  We needed to get the total runout and one final dimension tolerance of 0.0005" I was able to do it with my Unimat 3 which is over 30 years old.  I only had to take off 0.005", it took longer to do the setup than turn the parts.  The catch is the entire part was milled in one in the large VMC mills except for one dimension he left 0.005" oversized. He milled 12 parts in a couple of hours (couple of extra if I screwed up and I did scrap one) it took me 4 hours to set and turn off the final 0.005".  But on the small manual lathe I was able to set up multiple test indicators to guarantee that each part was in spec before we shipped.  This is something we DON'T do on a regular bases, but gives an example of accuracy and capability of a good small machine.  If we had to do these parts on my small equipment both my son and I would be able to collect social security before we finished. 
 
The above example is way past what would ever be needed for any ship modeling. So pick a machine that fits your space, budget and needs. Then add in the tooling and accessories which will be as much as the machine.  Sherline, Taig or a good Chinese machine would work for the small work required for modeling also at least 5000 RPM if able.  Doing anything bigger than that, then a machine that is heavier and more ridged is better.  
 
Somewhere on the sight in scratch builds, a guy uses a Taig CNC mill to do some fantastic stuff I can't remember which log though it's worth a look if you can find the log.  
 
Don

I have a Taig CNC mill, the CNC machines have a bigger motor than the manual mill and also can run up to 10000 RPM.  I believe you can have them put the larger motor on the manual machine.  The Taig mills are a little bigger and heavier than the Sherline.  The most common accessories like tilt table and the rotary table can be adapted for use on the Taig.  I have the Sherline rotary CNC table and use it with the Taig.  There are some differences in the manual and CNC versions of the Taig mill so look carefully if you compare the two.  
 
I agree with Jim on the 3 flute end mill.  My some son has his own custom machining and engineering business and he uses 3 flute end mills most of the time.  With these you can get a smooth cut while being able to clear the chips.  We also only use carbide.
 
Like most have said you can mill something small on a large machine but not the other way around.  That being said I have a Taig mill and lathe, the lathe I have set up for CNC or manual operation and a Unimat 3 that I have most of the accessories.  These are the machines I have set up where I work on model building.  I also have at my disposal my sons equipment which includes 2 VMC machines the large one comes in at about 13000 lbs and the smaller one at about 10000 lbs.  A bit of over kill for modeling to say the least.
 
The point being, I really never use any of the big equipment for modeling purposes I can get more than acceptable results for modeling from these small machines.  The only time I use the larger equipment is for making something for the smaller machines (like a tooling plate).  The important thing is keeping the working parts clean and maintained.  Accuracy is only as good as the setup and aligning of the machine itself. These small machines can be extremely accurate if set up properly.  An example in how accurate some of these small machines can be; I did the final op for 10 custom cam parts for my kids business over the weekend.  We needed to get the total runout and one final dimension tolerance of 0.0005" I was able to do it with my Unimat 3 which is over 30 years old.  I only had to take off 0.005", it took longer to do the setup than turn the parts.  The catch is the entire part was milled in one in the large VMC mills except for one dimension he left 0.005" oversized. He milled 12 parts in a couple of hours (couple of extra if I screwed up and I did scrap one) it took me 4 hours to set and turn off the final 0.005".  But on the small manual lathe I was able to set up multiple test indicators to guarantee that each part was in spec before we shipped.  This is something we DON'T do on a regular bases, but gives an example of accuracy and capability of a good small machine.  If we had to do these parts on my small equipment both my son and I would be able to collect social security before we finished. 
 
The above example is way past what would ever be needed for any ship modeling. So pick a machine that fits your space, budget and needs. Then add in the tooling and accessories which will be as much as the machine.  Sherline, Taig or a good Chinese machine would work for the small work required for modeling also at least 5000 RPM if able.  Doing anything bigger than that, then a machine that is heavier and more ridged is better.  
 
Somewhere on the sight in scratch builds, a guy uses a Taig CNC mill to do some fantastic stuff I can't remember which log though it's worth a look if you can find the log.  
 
Don

I’ve finaly reached another milestone:  The lower masts have been constructed and glued into place.  There are a few things that should be pointed out.  Lees states that wooldings were made of line before 1805; so even though the Hahn plans seem to show metal wooldings, I chose to go with line.  I also added a belaying pin rack that will hold 4 pins for Mizzen lines that will need tying off.  My belying pins obviously need to be a bit smaller.
 



 
My next milestone will be to add the shrouds and stays.  And, Lees also states that the sheer pole was not used until around 1800.  I like using the sheer pole to help align the dead eyes, but I guess I will have to try to get them all lined up without it.  If that is too much of a problem, then I’ll add the sheer poles anyway.
 

Chuck,
 
If by Corel Photo, you mean Corel Photo Paint, this plugin might fix the lens issues that you are having. I believe it works as a stand alone program or as a plugin. Of course, there is always Photoshop where its "Camera Raw" plugin can be set up to do it automatically.
 
http://epaperpress.com/ptlens/
 
Mike

Lol the mast pins were the last thing I saw before Jason's reply, now it makes perfect sense.  
 
That  belay pin arrangement on the Mizen is the same as shown on the Pegasus kit plans, but I opted for the cleat arrangement.
 
Glad we cleared that up  
 
B.E.

My experience mirrored 'barkingmads' response exactly, as does his comments.
Thank you to both Jim/Donna  for a great product.
As soon as the £ climbs back to where it should be and the UK government have stopped trying to pay off the national debt with trade from the USA, I will be going back for Jim's sander.
Kind Regards
Red (Also North Yorkshire)

Lessons Learned
 
Planking Clamps
 
I’ve decided that I will leave the starboard exterior mostly unplanked so the frames can be seen.  I’ve already decided to try to use LED’s to provide more lighting in the hold and the Accommodation Deck.  These two factors made me look a little more critically at the interior planking on the starboard side. 
 
I originally planned on the starboard side being almost fully planked, and any errors on the inboard planking on the starboard side wouldn’t be very visible.  The bilge ceiling planks aren’t installed very well - there are obvious gaps between some of the planks.  These gaps will be very visible from the exterior of the ship when the interior is lit by LED’s.
 
              
 
So these planks needed to be removed (more alcohol!!) and reinstalled.  When I started to install them I realized I had made an error when I made the planking clamps:  I had glued the spacers to the top of the clamps – this gave me no flexibility in positioning the tensioning part of the clamp.  I needed this flexibility because of the way the bilge ceiling clamps now had to be installed (working from the bottom up, rather than top down as originally done).  My existing clamps could not be used for this reinstallation.
 
So I made new clamp bodies, each with three different hole locations and with a non-fixed spacer.  In the following photo the old clamp body is on the left and the new version with the separate spacer is on the right.
 
                        
 
These new clamps worked well.  The following photo is of the clamps being used in a very close position – using the closest setting.
 
                        
 
When I reached the next plank up, this short position could no longer be used.  I moved the tensioning rod to the middle, and needed to use a piece of wood behind the clamp to allow it to work.  You can see what looks like a timber above the deck clamp/shelf combination in the photo – this is simply a loose piece of stock to allow the clamp to tension properly.
 
                        
 
I’m very happy with the new planking clamps, even though they won’t get much more use in this build.
 
 
Making Treenails
 
I’ve also decided that the floor ceiling planks and any exterior planks will need to be pinned in place for glueing, as Ed has done in the Young America build.  The holes used for pinning would need to be filled with bolts or treenails.  I’ll be using treenails for two main reasons:
 
1.     It’s more accurate – treenails were more often used on the planking, while bolts were used on the structural timbers.
2.     It’s easier to clean up.  Using treenails will allow me to use PVA glue, which can be cleaned up with water, while using bolts would make me deal with cleaning CA or Epoxy residue – neither is a good choice for me.
 
I’ve played with making treenails in the past and have been very frustrated with the experience – mostly using bamboo skewers.  I decided to try using the same color wood as the planks (castello) so that the treenails would be more subtle.  I had some Pau Marfim (also known as Guatambo) scraps, so I decided to use them – they look very much like castello and are almost as hard.
 
I started by milling the scraps down to a little under 1/32 square, about 8 inches long. 
 
                        
 
In previous attempts at making treenails, I had basically pulled the wood through the Byrnes drawplate with a pair of pliers, and went from one hole to the next in each step.  The pliers crushed the wood and the tension I needed to apply to the wood broke more pieces than I produced.
 
In this process I pulled the wood through with my fingers, and continued pulling through a hole until no more wood shaved off (4 to six times at each hole).  This made the subsequent smaller hole much easier to navigate.  I was able to get down to .030 inch pretty easily, and thought this would be a good size to stop at (2 inches at scale).
 
                        
 
Wrong!  I checked the Crothers book for treenail sizes, and found that I should be aiming for 1.25 inches or less – around .021 to .024.
 
This was much harder to get to. The treenail stock was now so thin that any accidental pressure would break them, and it was much harder to get them started in the holes.  I was able to produce some decent treenail stock in the correct sizes, and I’m sure with more practice I’ll improve.
 
The correct treenails are on the left in the following photo.
 
                        
 
All told not too much progress in building the model since the last post, but good progress in improving my modeling skills.
 
Thanks everyone!
 

I agree with the above statements. But if the seller isn,t a well known member, then i would ask that they ship first, before the money is sent.
I look at it this way, there needs to be a little trust on one side or the other and if they are fresh to the forums then the trust factor should go to the current members.

Also, please do not send payment using paypal gift as some may ask to avoid the 3percent seller fees. You as the buyer will give up any recourse you have if the deal goes south.
 
mike

Thanks for the idea jbbondy. I have a piece of Swiss Pear I am testing with wipe on poloy now. Any specific finish you would suggest

After more than 1 1/2 years at this, I'm approaching being done with the hull.
Put on the shelter roof last night.
Next is the rail/pump area around the mainmast, and then a few random things like the grinding wheel, some barrels, and a careful review of the plan sheet to make certain all of the deck eyebolts, cleats, etc. are in place.
Likely will need to take a break before beginning rigging/masts as real life intrudes again.
Oh well, by this time next year I'll be retired or, at the worst, part time; more time to play either way!

I'm sure Jotika/Caldercraft would be happy to replace them if you were to contact them.

Maybe you should head to HobbyZone
 
They make the most amazing workstation units that are interlinked with powerful magnets, so you can rearrange the modules as to how you like them. The quality is top rate, and they are beautifully designed. Here's my setup:
 

 

I saw this on another site and all I can say is "Wow"....    Even though I'm confirmed toolaholic, I don't think I'll be ordering one under the threat of being put before the mast, flogged around the fleet, keelhauled and then hung from the highest yardarm.
For some reason I'm not able to embed the video.. maybe me, maybe my browser....
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4et9a7MwxLs&feature=youtu.be
 
And two relevant links:
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1090944145/pocket-nc-the-first-5-axis-cnc-mill-for-your-deskt
http://www.pocketnc.com/