Beef Wellington

Love these ships, and you seem to be very skilled with the PE.  Definitely post more soon!

My first planking is done!  Not as elegant as I would have liked, but serviceable I guess.  For some reason the port side came out a little better than the starboard side. I welcome any constructive feedback.  Getting ready to sand and begin final planking.  

Love the "look" of her Joe, those shots really highlight not only your focus on the detail but also the way you've tied everything in together and achieved a very realistic scale look.  Definitely something to aspire to.

Love these ships, and you seem to be very skilled with the PE.  Definitely post more soon!

I realised why my deck was so flexible, having forgotten to fix the deck beams beforehand. Stupid error but it won’t be the last I’m sure. I fitted beams 7a and 10a and cut them around the hatch openings but I left the others off as they went right under the hatches. The coamings should add some rigidity once fitted.
 
The inner walls went quite well. The 5mm strips of limewood from CMB were nicely finished and didn’t require much cleaning up. Two runs of 5mm which I painted first, followed by 3 of 4.5mm Tanganyika and a final row of 6mm limewood. I am hoping that all this will make it easier to cut and line up the gun ports, the bottom edge of which should sit along the top of the 5mm planks.  I planked the entire run of inner walls having first thinned down the inner front bulkhead struts to give a more even run. Sanded down and painted red and the area behind the forward cabin bulkhead white. It’s a pity that the cabin area can’t be opened up more to be seen through the gallery windows but that would involve a lot of cutting away of bulkheads. Without modification I know that this area will not be seen easily, if at all, but I want to add the cabin partitions again like I did with Fly, hopefully making some improvements this time.
 

 
 
 
       
 
I have now started on the first layer of planking. The 6mm strips provided in the kit are really good. The first plank at upper deck level. There are some irregularities in the height of the supports but I will level these out later. The first two planks went on straight followed by the next tapered at the bow. I am chamfering each plank on the bottom edge to try to get a tight fit edge to edge but I still have difficulty get them to mate together in places. The irregularities will be taken care of with plenty of sanding and filler later. So far I have been fitting a plank each side to keep things even. I’ve got to the tight bend at the stern section. is a struggle and I am also wondering whether I have tapered the planks at the bow by too much.
 
 

 

 
 
 Anyway, I’ll keep going…
 
 

Thank you guys for all likes and comments.
I understand that for some people, the use of CNC machines is a somewhat controversial topic. On the other hand, I remember how I started modeling about 40 years ago with a hand saw and a set of files. Today, no one dares to use various electrical devices that make it easier for us modelers to work. From this point of view, the CNC machine is just another evolutionary step.
To garyshipwright: I am using VCarve Desktop.
I am starting work on main capstan parts - some pictures from production.

Love these ships, and you seem to be very skilled with the PE.  Definitely post more soon!

Love these ships, and you seem to be very skilled with the PE.  Definitely post more soon!

Love these ships, and you seem to be very skilled with the PE.  Definitely post more soon!

A few more:
 

I have completed the ratlines on both masts, which really wasn't too bad with the limited number of shrouds. Lantern boards were built and painted and secured with thin brass brackets seized to the shrouds per the plans. I also soldered up the topmast spreaders from brass wire and seized those to the shrouds as well, to keep the stay clear of the lantern boards. 
 
I didn't really document the booms being fabricated and assembled/painted, but their installation has begun. The hardware was made from various brass strips and wire. Their rigging has also begun with sheets and topping lifts run. I am using Bluejacket blocks, as Latham had internally stropped blocks, and Syren line for the running rigging. 

Will follow along as well if I may Luc, very interested in seeing you approach this.  Best of luck.

Will follow along as well if I may Luc, very interested in seeing you approach this.  Best of luck.

Quick Text update .. Ratlines are underway (I've also made the wooden 'Stretcher's' that goes below them)  No photos as I've only done 5 so-far
 
Eamonn

Ensign...conclusion:
A tiny bit of steam was used to soften the ensign while various "rounded implements" with different radii (dowel, metal file shafts etc.) were used to try and introduce various folds.  I'd love to be able to describe a reproduceable scientific process, but thats not what happened.  It was really just a continual serious of tweaks, leaving to dry and most importantly trying not to introduce creases.  Steam worked fine to initially soften and allow the structural folds to be introduced, but isn't really a good ongoing solution as it tends to undo any previous work.  Real care is also needed to not 'over wet' the painted flag, not sure I was completely successful here.  Final tweaking was done by wetting very gently any tools used and trying to hold in position while it dried and the fold takes.

...and with that milestone, I'm declaring this build FINISHED!  
 
This was my first wooden ship build, and first model I've built for over 30 years.  Its taken probably 8 years to get this far off an on (probably 7 years more than it should), but I have to say I'm glad I was able to finish her.  I've come to realize that I enjoy the journey more than the destination, and I certainly experienced moments when I could easily have put her aside permanently, mainly due to me recognizing unfixable mistakes or compromises that that could so easily been enhanced had I known more at the time.  Given the length of time taken to complete, this progression in knowledge and execution is very apparent to me, but I hope is less apparent to others.  All in all, this was a most enjoyable project that exposed me to the necessary knowledge and techniques that I hope build on and leverage in the future.  I still need to make up a protective case, and will probably continue to see needed fixes and touchups before she (hopefully) is put in a place of rest.  I would like to thank this entire community for the ongoing help, support and encouragement - without which I would not have reached this point.
 
Few pictures to celebrate, apologies that these aren't exactly studio quality.

 

Ok, I've decided to dump down the photos I've currently got on this one as FedEx has twice delayed my missing parts sheets.
 
Please remember, I've never done a POF before, so this is definitely out of my comfort zone. If you see anything untoward, feel free to make suggestions. 😊 Not sure what timber is used in this kit, but it's very similar to boxwood that I've used in models many years ago, and also at school. It's reasonably yellow, quite hard and with a fine grain. 
 
All sheets in the kit really need to be numbered as per the parts plan in the rear of the manual. You definitely don't want to mix any of these parts up. Parts removal is also very easy, with some cleanup required on tabs. A small number of the machined surfaces also look a little 'fluffy'. Until everything is sanded, I found that a simple shave/scrape with a blade was sufficient enough to sort it.
 

whoops! upside down numbers!
 
I've started by building frames #6, 7 and 8, and for the moment, also the 'B' part of each of those frames, which is the rear of each double frame (towards the stern, of course). Before any building, there are some filler parts which need to be glued to the plans (all frames except #14), so this was done from the outset. A hatched area on each frame drawing indicates where these fit. Also refer to my post about corrections to plans for fillers on #7 and #8 frames. 

 
A number of the top timbers are CNC-machined to shape, on both parts A & B of some frames. These just need to be snipped out from the sheet 9A and then cleaned up.

Temporary resin inserts are provided to add some gaps/spaces between some frame A & B sided, and the CNC parts need to have their 'V' notches properly cut into place so accommodate the resin spacers. Each set of spacers is also numbered specific to the frame you are working on.
 



 
All parts of each frame B (in turn) are removed from the various sheets and cleaned up. As this stuff is CNC routed, all internal corners are rounded and will need to be squared off. I used a scalpel for this and it only takes a minute or so per joint.



For gluing, I use Evo-Stick formula wood glue, and I also bevelled the timber joint as per plan (and the chocks).....BUT, it took me ages to make a single joint and to get it to fit more or less gap free. I've since found these joints are NOT angled/bevelled and should be perpendicular to the frame....no angled chocks either! I can't tell you how pleased that made me. There are a few laser engraved marks to show bevelling of these, so I'm just ignoring them. Only Frame 6B has them on mine, and the others won't.
 
NOTE: When assembling, note the bevelling lines on the timbers, and that the red lines on the plan are for the REARMOST extremity of each frame 'B'.
 
Frame work so far:

 
Whilst waiting for my parts to arrive vis FedEx, I assembled the two keel parts. Again, there is a certain amount of cleaning up to do, but I think the results look quite neat.



 
Back to the cave...

For the installation of the parts below the ribs, my own experience is to combine them with the keel in advance. (the parts of the ribs are bonded, but the ribs cannot be bonded with the keel.)

The ribs are then removed for assembly

 

greg..,
 
thanks
The headrails will be later but i did show the step by step on my cheeks and hair brackets in my build log
 
this is a sneak peak at one of the 12 main rail tests I made.  It is laser cut in five pieces.  Much like the hair brackets were handled using laser etched channels and inlays.
 

 

 

The account sounds a little like the Warren Commission assertion of the 'magic bullet' in the JFK assassination...

The account sounds a little like the Warren Commission assertion of the 'magic bullet' in the JFK assassination...

Thanks Chuck, will do.

Hello Druxey,
for this time, or ship typ (60 gunner), I think it's not so unusual. But often the anchor lining is not drawn in the draughts or build at the models. If they where'd there, or not, I don't know. 
 
Here some examples, the Centurion 1732

 
A Warship 1745, even with a bolster below the wales

 
Ipswich 1730

 
Standart 1782 (64 guns)

 
And a warship 1735

 
And then arose, when looking at this picture a question. This model has the hinges on top of the lid and not as I build it, under the lining. I build it so, because at the second picture the hinges are there at the lid, but the left one is under the lining. Godwin wrote that they replaced the lining when it's worn out, so I think the Hinges must be under the lining. May be it's a shortcut of the modeller of this model?
 
 
 

Centre superstructure, decals added 

Just wait a couple of weeks and send me your list.

Ensign...conclusion:
A tiny bit of steam was used to soften the ensign while various "rounded implements" with different radii (dowel, metal file shafts etc.) were used to try and introduce various folds.  I'd love to be able to describe a reproduceable scientific process, but thats not what happened.  It was really just a continual serious of tweaks, leaving to dry and most importantly trying not to introduce creases.  Steam worked fine to initially soften and allow the structural folds to be introduced, but isn't really a good ongoing solution as it tends to undo any previous work.  Real care is also needed to not 'over wet' the painted flag, not sure I was completely successful here.  Final tweaking was done by wetting very gently any tools used and trying to hold in position while it dried and the fold takes.

...and with that milestone, I'm declaring this build FINISHED!  
 
This was my first wooden ship build, and first model I've built for over 30 years.  Its taken probably 8 years to get this far off an on (probably 7 years more than it should), but I have to say I'm glad I was able to finish her.  I've come to realize that I enjoy the journey more than the destination, and I certainly experienced moments when I could easily have put her aside permanently, mainly due to me recognizing unfixable mistakes or compromises that that could so easily been enhanced had I known more at the time.  Given the length of time taken to complete, this progression in knowledge and execution is very apparent to me, but I hope is less apparent to others.  All in all, this was a most enjoyable project that exposed me to the necessary knowledge and techniques that I hope build on and leverage in the future.  I still need to make up a protective case, and will probably continue to see needed fixes and touchups before she (hopefully) is put in a place of rest.  I would like to thank this entire community for the ongoing help, support and encouragement - without which I would not have reached this point.
 
Few pictures to celebrate, apologies that these aren't exactly studio quality.