Beef Wellington

I have completed the ratlines on both masts, which really wasn't too bad with the limited number of shrouds. Lantern boards were built and painted and secured with thin brass brackets seized to the shrouds per the plans. I also soldered up the topmast spreaders from brass wire and seized those to the shrouds as well, to keep the stay clear of the lantern boards. 
 
I didn't really document the booms being fabricated and assembled/painted, but their installation has begun. The hardware was made from various brass strips and wire. Their rigging has also begun with sheets and topping lifts run. I am using Bluejacket blocks, as Latham had internally stropped blocks, and Syren line for the running rigging. 

Will follow along as well if I may Luc, very interested in seeing you approach this.  Best of luck.

Will follow along as well if I may Luc, very interested in seeing you approach this.  Best of luck.

Quick Text update .. Ratlines are underway (I've also made the wooden 'Stretcher's' that goes below them)  No photos as I've only done 5 so-far
 
Eamonn

Ensign...conclusion:
A tiny bit of steam was used to soften the ensign while various "rounded implements" with different radii (dowel, metal file shafts etc.) were used to try and introduce various folds.  I'd love to be able to describe a reproduceable scientific process, but thats not what happened.  It was really just a continual serious of tweaks, leaving to dry and most importantly trying not to introduce creases.  Steam worked fine to initially soften and allow the structural folds to be introduced, but isn't really a good ongoing solution as it tends to undo any previous work.  Real care is also needed to not 'over wet' the painted flag, not sure I was completely successful here.  Final tweaking was done by wetting very gently any tools used and trying to hold in position while it dried and the fold takes.

...and with that milestone, I'm declaring this build FINISHED!  
 
This was my first wooden ship build, and first model I've built for over 30 years.  Its taken probably 8 years to get this far off an on (probably 7 years more than it should), but I have to say I'm glad I was able to finish her.  I've come to realize that I enjoy the journey more than the destination, and I certainly experienced moments when I could easily have put her aside permanently, mainly due to me recognizing unfixable mistakes or compromises that that could so easily been enhanced had I known more at the time.  Given the length of time taken to complete, this progression in knowledge and execution is very apparent to me, but I hope is less apparent to others.  All in all, this was a most enjoyable project that exposed me to the necessary knowledge and techniques that I hope build on and leverage in the future.  I still need to make up a protective case, and will probably continue to see needed fixes and touchups before she (hopefully) is put in a place of rest.  I would like to thank this entire community for the ongoing help, support and encouragement - without which I would not have reached this point.
 
Few pictures to celebrate, apologies that these aren't exactly studio quality.

 

Ok, I've decided to dump down the photos I've currently got on this one as FedEx has twice delayed my missing parts sheets.
 
Please remember, I've never done a POF before, so this is definitely out of my comfort zone. If you see anything untoward, feel free to make suggestions. 😊 Not sure what timber is used in this kit, but it's very similar to boxwood that I've used in models many years ago, and also at school. It's reasonably yellow, quite hard and with a fine grain. 
 
All sheets in the kit really need to be numbered as per the parts plan in the rear of the manual. You definitely don't want to mix any of these parts up. Parts removal is also very easy, with some cleanup required on tabs. A small number of the machined surfaces also look a little 'fluffy'. Until everything is sanded, I found that a simple shave/scrape with a blade was sufficient enough to sort it.
 

whoops! upside down numbers!
 
I've started by building frames #6, 7 and 8, and for the moment, also the 'B' part of each of those frames, which is the rear of each double frame (towards the stern, of course). Before any building, there are some filler parts which need to be glued to the plans (all frames except #14), so this was done from the outset. A hatched area on each frame drawing indicates where these fit. Also refer to my post about corrections to plans for fillers on #7 and #8 frames. 

 
A number of the top timbers are CNC-machined to shape, on both parts A & B of some frames. These just need to be snipped out from the sheet 9A and then cleaned up.

Temporary resin inserts are provided to add some gaps/spaces between some frame A & B sided, and the CNC parts need to have their 'V' notches properly cut into place so accommodate the resin spacers. Each set of spacers is also numbered specific to the frame you are working on.
 



 
All parts of each frame B (in turn) are removed from the various sheets and cleaned up. As this stuff is CNC routed, all internal corners are rounded and will need to be squared off. I used a scalpel for this and it only takes a minute or so per joint.



For gluing, I use Evo-Stick formula wood glue, and I also bevelled the timber joint as per plan (and the chocks).....BUT, it took me ages to make a single joint and to get it to fit more or less gap free. I've since found these joints are NOT angled/bevelled and should be perpendicular to the frame....no angled chocks either! I can't tell you how pleased that made me. There are a few laser engraved marks to show bevelling of these, so I'm just ignoring them. Only Frame 6B has them on mine, and the others won't.
 
NOTE: When assembling, note the bevelling lines on the timbers, and that the red lines on the plan are for the REARMOST extremity of each frame 'B'.
 
Frame work so far:

 
Whilst waiting for my parts to arrive vis FedEx, I assembled the two keel parts. Again, there is a certain amount of cleaning up to do, but I think the results look quite neat.



 
Back to the cave...

For the installation of the parts below the ribs, my own experience is to combine them with the keel in advance. (the parts of the ribs are bonded, but the ribs cannot be bonded with the keel.)

The ribs are then removed for assembly

 

greg..,
 
thanks
The headrails will be later but i did show the step by step on my cheeks and hair brackets in my build log
 
this is a sneak peak at one of the 12 main rail tests I made.  It is laser cut in five pieces.  Much like the hair brackets were handled using laser etched channels and inlays.
 

 

 

The account sounds a little like the Warren Commission assertion of the 'magic bullet' in the JFK assassination...

The account sounds a little like the Warren Commission assertion of the 'magic bullet' in the JFK assassination...

Thanks Chuck, will do.

Hello Druxey,
for this time, or ship typ (60 gunner), I think it's not so unusual. But often the anchor lining is not drawn in the draughts or build at the models. If they where'd there, or not, I don't know. 
 
Here some examples, the Centurion 1732

 
A Warship 1745, even with a bolster below the wales

 
Ipswich 1730

 
Standart 1782 (64 guns)

 
And a warship 1735

 
And then arose, when looking at this picture a question. This model has the hinges on top of the lid and not as I build it, under the lining. I build it so, because at the second picture the hinges are there at the lid, but the left one is under the lining. Godwin wrote that they replaced the lining when it's worn out, so I think the Hinges must be under the lining. May be it's a shortcut of the modeller of this model?
 
 
 

Centre superstructure, decals added 

Just wait a couple of weeks and send me your list.

Ensign...conclusion:
A tiny bit of steam was used to soften the ensign while various "rounded implements" with different radii (dowel, metal file shafts etc.) were used to try and introduce various folds.  I'd love to be able to describe a reproduceable scientific process, but thats not what happened.  It was really just a continual serious of tweaks, leaving to dry and most importantly trying not to introduce creases.  Steam worked fine to initially soften and allow the structural folds to be introduced, but isn't really a good ongoing solution as it tends to undo any previous work.  Real care is also needed to not 'over wet' the painted flag, not sure I was completely successful here.  Final tweaking was done by wetting very gently any tools used and trying to hold in position while it dried and the fold takes.

...and with that milestone, I'm declaring this build FINISHED!  
 
This was my first wooden ship build, and first model I've built for over 30 years.  Its taken probably 8 years to get this far off an on (probably 7 years more than it should), but I have to say I'm glad I was able to finish her.  I've come to realize that I enjoy the journey more than the destination, and I certainly experienced moments when I could easily have put her aside permanently, mainly due to me recognizing unfixable mistakes or compromises that that could so easily been enhanced had I known more at the time.  Given the length of time taken to complete, this progression in knowledge and execution is very apparent to me, but I hope is less apparent to others.  All in all, this was a most enjoyable project that exposed me to the necessary knowledge and techniques that I hope build on and leverage in the future.  I still need to make up a protective case, and will probably continue to see needed fixes and touchups before she (hopefully) is put in a place of rest.  I would like to thank this entire community for the ongoing help, support and encouragement - without which I would not have reached this point.
 
Few pictures to celebrate, apologies that these aren't exactly studio quality.

 

Post Fourteen
 
Gunwales
 
The Gunwales are laser cut Pearwood and what a delight they are.
 
Finely detailed and incorporating the thole pin sockets they were a good fit along the sheer line.
I had left the thwart brackets long to butt the gunwale against and they perfectly position the strips.
I use ca spots to secure them to the boat.
 
Atop the Gunwales are fitted the Splash boards at the bow and stern.
 
Altho’ these are a mere 1.5mm deep Chris has managed to include an engraved pattern on the face to reflect the mouldings that often featured on these parts.
 
The splash boards require a little bending to suit the run of the Gunwale particularly at the bow, and then they were pva’d into place.

00389

00390
Painting these intricate areas is a time-consuming exercise; lay a coat down, photo it, recoil in horror at the macro, sand using thin sanding sticks and fine paper, repeat the exercise. 😉
 
 
Great value for money these bijou offerings from Chris, where else can you get endless hours of pleasure and pain for a mere Twenty-five quid. 🙂
 
 
Lovin’ this kit. 👍
 
 
B.E.
08/02/21
 

A little light relief:
 
Stern Facia Knees.  Quite the easiest installation to date.  Angles easy to sand, dab or two of CA, and it's done.

 
Side Steps and Fenders. Keeping the steps aligned was a challenge, but not really a great one.  The Fenders I made entirely from 4x2 walnut strip, rejecting the pair (not six?!) provided in 2 mm ply.  Took the radical decision that in my work-a-day ship the 1st Lieutenant would not be paying for yellow ochre paint on parts to be rubbed against quays, boats and other surfaces, or stamped upon by tarry feet.  So all are work-a-day black.  I'm pleased to have them visible.

 
Fitted the rudder.  A modest challenge since the white-metal castings varied from fair to poor, but most importantly varied.  The length of the pins on the pintles needed to be trimmed, the spikes on the gudgeons were elliptical, and the holes in the gudgeons needed drilling out.  Squared-up the cutouts on the ruder first, and then glued the pintles in, snug in the top corners of the cutouts.  Clamped the rudder in place and then marked a level on the sternpost giving the bottom of each pintle, so the top of each gudgeon.  Fixed the top gudgeon: drilled for the locating pin 1.5 mm lower than the marked level.  Glued the gudgeon.  Checked for alignment.  All good, repeated for 2nd, 3rd and 4th.  Naturally everything was fine until the last one - as I hurried to get done by lunch.  Hole too hight, cutut too short, locating pin snapped.  Had some lunch, then carefully remedied.

 
But now onto some serious stuff.  Here's a glint of copper:

Main mast added 

Finally I have decided my Hood is finished. I started a little more than year ago with good progress in the beginning but gradually I lost interest. I hate to say it but I have mixed feelings about this Trumpeter kit. Some of it is excellent but parts are not very good considering the age of the kit and the price. It is a "out of box build". Maybe with some extra details it would be better?  Never the less, here she is. I did a very simple diorama just for fun using toilet paper, white glue and mixes of acrylic paints in black, white green and umber. At least it gives life into the model. Does she not look sleek and mean?
 

 

 

 

 

 
Best regards
 
Henrik

Made some more progress.  Got the final 10 AA guns installed, along with some ammo crates and other assorted items.  This one in particular was fun:
 
 

 

 

 
I ended up spraying a coat of Future so I can start the wash and weathering process.  Here are some shots of what it looks like.  I always cringe when I post these, and have to remind myself that they are taken at high magnification:
 

 

 

 

 

 
On the final stretch.  Thanks for looking in!
 

Fair but if work required on the bridge section, I still need to work the arials a bit. 

Post Twelve
 
Making wood out of brass.
 
 
I did think about replacing the decking board etch with planks but decided to keep the etched version as it matched the bow and stern sheet gratings.
 
After a thorough cleaning with soapy water, scrubbing, and sanding, followed by an acid dip, I chemically blackened the parts which will give a better surface for painting.
 
Having given the etch a base coat of Humbrol 93 I applied a thin streaky coat of Humbrol 94, followed by a dry bushing of sand yellow weathering powder.

00315
Between the boards I ran diluted black/grey water-based paint, and gave the whole thing a wash of dark brown weathering powder immediately wiped off.

00317
I spent a fair bit of time fiddling with the gratings / boards to get a fit I was happy with.
The gratings should fit above the boards, and I added support timbers where the gratings meet the boards.
 

00322
I also used my Muirneag Skipper to check the relative heights of the stern sheets and grating.
 

00323
It is reassuring to note that the scale figure confirms the  correct  height of the internal fittings.
 
 
Well done Chris 👍
 

00329

00330
These are just the temporary thwarts used to check the positioning.
 
As can be seen I have decided to part paint the Yawl as I quite liked the combination of colour contrasting with the Pear-wood natural finish.

00291
I used Light Ivory (Admiralty Paints) for the lower hull, and Flat Red (Vallejo) for the Gunwales and internal planking down to the stringer line.
 
The remainder will be the natural Pearwood finish enhanced with wipe-on-poly.
 
The kit suggests a more simplified approach of painting the bottom white up to the wale which is a perfectly acceptable scheme, particularly for later period boats, but I prefer to have the contrast of the natural wood.

00296
The waterline was gauged by eye and by reference to bow and stern points on a yawl plan.
 
 
 
Still a way to go with the internal fittings.
 
 
B.E.
06/02/21

1:48 HMS Granado ‘Cross Section’
CAF Model
Available from CAF Model for $325.00
 

 
The Granado, a bomb-vessel that was originally fitted out as a sloop (and ended her life as a sloop, also) was thought to have been designed by Thomas Slade. She is definitely a subject which has proven quite popular over the last 20yrs, with POB kits of this released by Amati etc. CAF Model’s intention to create a POF of this model was met with much interest, but before an eventual release of a full hull model, they have released a cross section kit in the same 1:48 scale. For only a section of a complete vessel, the box for this release is quite heavy and still of a reasonable size. Packed into a slimline corrugated box with a Granado label affixed to the lid, the kit reached me in the UK wrapped in a thick layer of extra card to protect it and reached me unscathed. 

Tom at CAF Model sent this kit minus two small sheets of parts which are now en-route to me, as he wanted MSW to be able to feature this as soon as possible. When those parts arrive, I’ll update this article with those extra photos. I quite like innovative features in model kits, and we’ve certainly got that here with the unique (at least I’m pretty sure!) building jig that accompanies Granado. Remember, that like all my reviews, this is an ‘in-box’ review and is designed to show you the contents of a kit as it comes, with any observations etc. How a model builds will be dependent on various other factors, but I will be featuring this as a build log on MSW in the coming days. 
 
CAF kits now have a break seal on them that needs to be cut through before opening, and when the lid is up, this quite heavy box can be seen to be totally chock-full of parts and other components. This kit has four heat-shrunk packs of timber in both laser and CNC cut types, a pack of strip wood, a box of detail components, a box containing the build jig, two sheets of rolled plans, and an instruction manual in a sleeve, also containing a small fret of photo-etch parts. 

I’m not too sure what timber this model is made from, but it has a nice pale-yellow hue and a very fine grain that’s certainly akin to some of the fruit timbers I’ve used over the years. As stated, all the parts sheets are sealed in shrink wrap. This is quite thick and needs a sharp knife to break through. Many of the parts sheets are just a few inches long, ranging from some quite thick sheets, to one which is just a veneer. Most are CNC cut and also pre-shaped on a multi-axis machine. 
 

Two similar packs to this are included in the parts total, and all contain exclusively CNC-cut/routed parts. The steel rule in the photo will give a good idea of the size of these sheets.
 

Here you can clearly see the CNC routing and the extra shaping on some parts. Also note the laser engraving too, for the bevelling lines. These lines are also engraved on the rear of some of these sheets. All sheets are clearly numbered with laser-engraved marks too, but the actual parts numbers will be checked against a part plan in the manual. This helps to save precious production time as engraving the sheet would doubtless add extra expense to the modeller. 
 


The fames for the model (18 in total), are constructed in the same manner as their real counterparts, and also include the ‘bends’ in them that were typically seen in vessels of this period. This is where the CNC routing comes into effect, producing those complex shapes for the modeller, saving not just time but also the complications that result from recreating such parts by hand. To be able to position these frames against each other accurately, a series of temporary resin inserts are also included. We’ll see those shortly.
 



Here you can see the breakdown of the frames into the various components including futtocks and chocks. A nice enhancement would be to use something that would represent fastenings in the complete frames…maybe black fishing line/filament which would look like nail heads.
 


Deck beams are pre-cut to shape, including rebates for deck support timbers etc.
 


More frame timbers with their engraved position/bevelling parts. Here you can also see the frame sections (top) which form the bottom of the frames that sit upon the keel.
 



These photos give an excellent idea of the CNC shaping of the most complicated timbers, allowing this to be a nice introduction into POF modelling, whilst removing what would be the most frustrating elements. 
 

Two longer packs include more CNC-machined/routed parts, but also a series of laser-cut sheets. 
 

Clearly seen in this photo are keel parts, knees and parts for the gun mount. 
 


And now some laser-cut wood! One thing you won’t need to worry about is shaping any planks, especially internally, where that is a little more complicated. Granado is planked internally and externally, on one side only, giving the viewer the ability to see a complete hull on one side, and skeletal on the other. You will also see cannon carriage parts here too.
 

This is the last pack of timber parts, again comprising both CNC and laser cut elements. 
 



More planking here, and also parts comprising the gun deck and hatch covers. Sheet 1A is a veneer. These appear to be facing parts for at least two frames. 
 

This is a highly prefabricated kit, making it perfect for that intro to POF, as can be seen from more pre-shaped planking etc. Whilst a gentle sanding of all laser parts is a good idea to remove any surface heat marks, you would need to see how the edges look when together as far as the char goes. Instead of using this for ‘caulk’, it could be a good idea to remove this char and simply use a pencil to represent caulk, as it’s less stark. 
 





The largest box inside this kit contains that unique feature I mentioned earlier. That is a clear acrylic building jig. Not only does this take over from the traditional ply jig we are used to seeing, but it’s also engraved so you can check alignment from every conceivable angle. This is assembled using short screws which also fasten into a series of specially cast resin blocks which keep everything square. The jig itself is a work of art. It’s a shame it’s disposable. However, more acrylic parts are included for a final display stand, engraved with the ship’s name. All acrylic parts are protected with a layer of peelable film.
 


The second and last box contains all the various fittings etc. 
 

These are the resin blocks which are used to construct the clear assembly jig.
 
 

I mentioned earlier about resin inserts which temporarily sit between twisted frames, to help with their positioning in relation to each other. These are those. When the frames are set, these are disposed of.
 
 

Screws for assembling the acrylic building jig.
 
 

These parts are very obvious. Here you see not only the main mortar with its beautiful detail including royal crest, but also the two cannon for the framed side of the hull. The other pack contains the capsquares for the mortar, and these are actually workable! Casting really is very nice and there’s minimal clean up. As these are brass, that aspect will be very simple with a nice set of files. 
 
 


More packs contain eyebolts, bombs, deadeyes, eyelets, swivel gun mount, rigging cord etc.
 
 


There isn’t too much strip timber in this kit, but there really doesn’t need to be. A small length of brass wire is also included.
 

A single fret of PE is included. Production is excellent, with small connecting tabs. You’ll find cannon and hull fittings here etc. 
 
 
Plans and instructions



 
Two sheets of plans are included. One of those covers all the frame assemblies, whilst the other also has various illustrations of the completed hull to help with overall assembly. These are quite long sheets and need double rolling to remove the curl in the sheets as they are quite tightly rolled. 
 




 
The instructions are line drawing format but also contain colour. These look pretty easy to follow and the writing is clearly understandable. 
 
Conclusion
As well as being an interesting subject of a popular vessel, this is going to be a perfect introduction to the world of POF. Being 1:48, this is also a nice size too without being too large for your shelf. I know some modellers would like to build in 1:48 but could find it restrictive when it comes to displays. This should alleviate that problem! Overall, this looks a very nicely designed and produced kit with some very nice and innovative features. Most importantly too, it looks to be real fun to build! Head over to CAF and snag yourself one.
 
My sincere thanks to CAF Model for the review sample seen here.
 









 
 
 
 

Shrouds are installed as well as all of the bowsprit rigging. All of the shrouds (masts and bowsprit) are served over their entire length. It seems to take forever and gets a bit tedious, but it does add a lot going to the effort to do it. The pin racks have also been installed between the deadeyes and seized. 

Filling and sanding is the order of the week though. It seems the pieces will turn out well in the end, but this is the first time that I attempt this. I am really glad with the choice of 1/700, as anything bigger would have certainly be a problem.