Beef Wellington

Hi Tom, looking good. One question, see that you have the anchor stock parallels to the arms, I've never seen these anything other than being set at a right angle to each other.

Hi Tom, looking good. One question, see that you have the anchor stock parallels to the arms, I've never seen these anything other than being set at a right angle to each other.

Here is one of 4 anchors. It is all wood except for the blackened brass bands and the rope covered ring. I used the size formulas laid out in Mondfeld’s Historic Ship Models to get the size. At first it seemed very large but when I temporarily placed it on the bow and looked at other models of the Leopard it looked OK. I guess I never realized how big these things were!  Now I need to make 3 more just like it😜. 

Stay safe
Tom
 

Congratulations Jesse on completing such a fine looking model, have really enjoyed following along with you.

You did a great job on that top and butt planking which really jumps out now, hope it stays visible with the guns in place.  Good luck with the copper, remember its a marathon not a sprint 🙂

You did a great job on that top and butt planking which really jumps out now, hope it stays visible with the guns in place.  Good luck with the copper, remember its a marathon not a sprint 🙂

Greeting all 
                Thanks for the likes.  Well once again I got cheesed off. Only made the gratings, ones inside the ship somewhere. One set of ladder fell in the bin. So I have abandoned the gun deck.  I am now going to fit all the the copper plates before any thing else. There is a lot of quality work on this aspect of the build for me to follow and help me along. I have only once before copper plated a hull. I worked downward from the waterline, which appears to be incorrect, so I shall work upwards. Right here we go swear box and wallpaper paste to the ready. See you all when one side is complete.     Regards  DAVID 

When you're between two of similar object loves, trying to not neglect the other... 

Greetings all,
 
Really is time I got back to finish Snake, time just flies, and incredible that my last update was July 2015!  .  Firstly, she's been staring at me from across the room and I can't avert my eyes any longer from embarrassment with her so neglected.  Secondly, I feel I really need to finish her to be able to hold my head up on this forum by having actually completed something, and thirdly, there are some things I need to contemplate on 'Jason' and skills to hone before I move forward.
 
I'll be honest, it was a little bit of a challenge getting going again, there are many things about her that I'm not too happy with, but recognize that this is still a first build using kit supplied parts so just need to be happy with it.  One trick I've found to reduce 'fuzzies' is simply to use a brush to stroke warm water onto the line.  I've tried bees wax, but from my experience it just seemed to result in dandruff!
 
So what exactly has been done:
Rigging on the foremast has completed for now to include the sheets and clew-line Main mast yards are installed and similarly completed (some lines that belay outside of the line of the main shroud are being left for now to give more room to access the mizzen mast area) Much rework has been done in the completion of the above tasks, which certainly slowed progress, including: Re-rigging many of the horses in situ, trying to give them a little more 'slack' Definitely a case of 2 steps forward and 1 step back picking this back up.  The dexterity needed to navigate around the increasingly catch prone pointy bits eluded me, and for every yard rigged it seemed I had to re-strop a block that slipped loose as a result of unwanted contact with a spar or line.  Thankfully nothing wooden has broken.  Putting a positive spin on this, it definitely required honing of skills - the most aggravating and challenging fix was probably the violin block for the fore mainyard lift (photo below).  This was re-stropped in situ and required keeping the existing lines suitably taught and navigating around the existing rigging- despite some rather salty language, this was honestly a bit of a boost after recognizing that if that was possible, pretty much anything can be fixed.  (Seizing black thread around black line against the black woodwork proved too much for the eye...)    
Finally where things stand.  I'm standing by the decision to rig starting with forward masts and moving aft, going from lower to upper.  Suspect next up will be the spanker and gaff before installing the cross-jack.  
 

Greetings all,
 
Really is time I got back to finish Snake, time just flies, and incredible that my last update was July 2015!  .  Firstly, she's been staring at me from across the room and I can't avert my eyes any longer from embarrassment with her so neglected.  Secondly, I feel I really need to finish her to be able to hold my head up on this forum by having actually completed something, and thirdly, there are some things I need to contemplate on 'Jason' and skills to hone before I move forward.
 
I'll be honest, it was a little bit of a challenge getting going again, there are many things about her that I'm not too happy with, but recognize that this is still a first build using kit supplied parts so just need to be happy with it.  One trick I've found to reduce 'fuzzies' is simply to use a brush to stroke warm water onto the line.  I've tried bees wax, but from my experience it just seemed to result in dandruff!
 
So what exactly has been done:
Rigging on the foremast has completed for now to include the sheets and clew-line Main mast yards are installed and similarly completed (some lines that belay outside of the line of the main shroud are being left for now to give more room to access the mizzen mast area) Much rework has been done in the completion of the above tasks, which certainly slowed progress, including: Re-rigging many of the horses in situ, trying to give them a little more 'slack' Definitely a case of 2 steps forward and 1 step back picking this back up.  The dexterity needed to navigate around the increasingly catch prone pointy bits eluded me, and for every yard rigged it seemed I had to re-strop a block that slipped loose as a result of unwanted contact with a spar or line.  Thankfully nothing wooden has broken.  Putting a positive spin on this, it definitely required honing of skills - the most aggravating and challenging fix was probably the violin block for the fore mainyard lift (photo below).  This was re-stropped in situ and required keeping the existing lines suitably taught and navigating around the existing rigging- despite some rather salty language, this was honestly a bit of a boost after recognizing that if that was possible, pretty much anything can be fixed.  (Seizing black thread around black line against the black woodwork proved too much for the eye...)    
Finally where things stand.  I'm standing by the decision to rig starting with forward masts and moving aft, going from lower to upper.  Suspect next up will be the spanker and gaff before installing the cross-jack.  
 

Its only a 6hr drive (give or take) not counting New York, Philadelphia or Baltimore traffic.... 🙂  

Have long been intrigued with ship models - to the point of spending an entire day at the Musée de la Marine in Paris, as well as long sessions at Washington’s  Smithsonian, Mystic Seaport, and the National Maritime Museum in Greenwich. Have started many models and toy boats and have managed to complete one home-made ship in a bottle so far.  Am currently working on a model of the Baltimore Brig Numa and hope the experts here will be able to provide help and guidance.  

Welcome Will, your models look great.  Definitely consider starting a build log, that way you will certainly get plenty of support and advice along the way, definitely the best way to get the most out of this community.

Good morning everyone
 
Thank you for the likes and comments
the boom rigging will be done at a later date when i have a better understanding of where all the lines go, also depending on how she will be displayed
 
work progresses on the build, and i am thoroughly enjoying it, yesterday the stanchions above the ladders were completed,sprayed with white primer and a grime wash put on top
 
the big parts that were made up a few months ago and now being fitted, another week or so, i may have to put her on hold, as the hull will then require work and its just too wet/damp to do it, 
 
 
 

im passed that stage, and as i nor have the free time, thoroughly enjoying it
 
 
good evening everyone, another day another update, you lot are so lucky
 
some of the little modules that i built months ago are now finding there way onto the build
the booms behind the wheelhouse the fwd funnel stays are in, the two cowls now have a home, but mainly there for now to ensure nothing is causing an obstruction
two booms are in the rest position, and will be rigged tomorrow, in the raised position
all the mast stays are now in place, and this week will be fixed in place so that the ratlines can go in
 
then outside for a few photo's

 
 
 
 
 

Welcome Will, your models look great.  Definitely consider starting a build log, that way you will certainly get plenty of support and advice along the way, definitely the best way to get the most out of this community.

Greetings! I'm a freelancing classical musician living in Connecticut. I finished my second Masters at Yale in 2018 and am a singer specializing in early music and historical performance practice (although I sing a variety of different classical genres). I have a lot of artistic interests, including calligraphy, illumination, drawing, and painting.
 
My journey into model shipbuilding began with the Minicraft Titanic 1:400 in October 2018. I recently completed the Revell Cutty Sark 1:96 (thanks to covid-19), and am currently working on my first wood model, the Amati Lady Nelson. I originally did this in the spirit of challenging myself to be a more patient, precise, and focused artist. I honestly have a hard time looking at those first two models because of how much I have learned since, but I'm sure many of you feel that way about your first models. I feel very vulnerable and self-conscious sharing photos of these crude builds to a community of literal experts, but I've attached just a few wide shots so you can't be too scrutinizing ☺️. I will be putting up a build log for the Lady Nelson soon. I feel really good about how she's coming along, and have decided to really explore working with wood in future models, which I have no experience with (beyond a crude Pinewood derby car I build when I was 10). I absolutely love working with it on the Lady Nelson, though. It's resilient, sculptable, and full of character and life. I don't think I'll ever go back to a plastic model again.
 
As a young freelancing performer, I am rather limited on the space and funds I need to develop this hobby. I have a decent selection of hand tools but no power tools. Not even a drill. I work in a small carpeted office that also is a room I practice in. But I'm embracing having to do things by hand and having to be more creative with my processes.
 
This community has already provided me with so much knowledge and experience and I hope I can continue learning with constructive criticism and more active participation in the forums.  I am already (ambitiously) dreaming of which kit I will build next.
 
Thanks for reading!
Will
 

progress

Hello
and many thanks for all the likes and comments
 
I'm still working at the arsenal. But because we have here the best weather since ever, no rain since six weeks, and always sunshine, I took my lathe and reside now in the conservatory. 

Here I turned all the wheels. That took me two days busy. Then I build the stool beds down in the basement, I would't bring up my whole equipment


and the wedges. The handles are from 1 mm rods I made for the Dragon. 

And here the result



Tomorrow I have to buy new material and then turn the wheels for the other canons. These are now oiled and could dry in the sun until I paint them red. That is a drawback from the LED lights, they have no UV radiation in there program and most oils need them to harden. 
 

AMC Otranto
Afternoon Quickie. L to R HM Ships Glasgow, Otranto and Good Hope. Just before the Battle of Coronel
W/C 14” X 10”

Hi folks, back with another small progress reports.  I have started work on completing the armament; 6 x broadside guns - Dundas 32pdr 25cwt on rear chock carriages) and 1 x pivot gun (Blomefield 32 pdr 56cwt on an Improved Ferguson Slide).  I have not shown the pivot gun as it is still being reworked a little.
 
I have completed the six carriage (with the exception of blackening the wheels) and I have now painted the gun barrels (were 3D printed).  The barrels were airbrushed with Mr. Metal dark iron and I think look reasonably realistic in colour? 
 
I started assembling one as a prototype (version 2) to ensure all works.  I have yet to do the capsquares over the trunnions, and fit the breeching rope through the cascabel loop.  These will be seized to ring bolts before fitting to the ship.  The carriage shows the wheels painted but yet to be burnished to remove some of the lumpiness.  Please remember these are in very close-up so look a lot worse here than to the naked eye
 
I have manage to get the rear elevating worm screw to actually work, but I would not try this once fitted on the model; hopefully I do not put too much glue on the capsquares to stop the gun elevating/depressing.  The barrel is only dry fitted at the moment so it looks a little off-centre.  It will be corrected when the capsquares are fitted. 
 
I have managed to show a bit of the detail even at this scales including the gunlock, dispart (fore) sight and Millers after sight.  I even managed to keep my hands steady enough to paint them bronze without making a real hash of it, but could do with some improvement   I will attempt to add a very small lanyard to the lock but I am not holding my breath on that one.  and yes, I have files one side of the trunnion bar off-angle but this will be hidden under the capsquare and I do not wish to muck-up the paint at this late stage
 
I have also added a photo of an actual gun fitted in the ship for reference.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 

Hi all,  shown below is my first attempt of the EOT.  This was 3D printed and is only 11mm high with the panels in the Engine Order face less than a mm  wide and about 1.5mm long.  This is extreme close up so shows a lot of bumps etc that are not visible to the naked eye.  The Mr Metal "Brass" has yet to be polished which will smooth these out somewhat.  the dabs of black are supposed to represent order positions (slow ahead, half ahead, full ahead etc).  At this scale and my shaky hands this is the best I can achieve and looks OK to the naked eye.

 
 
The second photo shows the EOT and one of the gun carriages with the brass wheels painted with Mr Metal "Iron"; again they need to polished and unfortunately, the photo implies the lot is painted but the wood of the truck is not painted, nor is the internal part of the axletree stub.  I will try to get a better photo.
 

 
cheers
 
Pat

That looks good Mark.  Did you adjust the stern profile to account for the curvature of the fascia?

Well, I got it out of my system. I am a long way from actually being able to construct the stern-a few decks still to install--but at least I can see an outline of what the stern will look like.
Back to planking....
 
Mark



 

Your display of her side through time is very impressive. Congratulations on a very fine job of research as well as painting. The rigged fore chains with stowed anchor presentation looks intriguing. The Augsburg show would have been fun to attend!