Beef Wellington

The answers to many of our questions are found in Ordnance Instructions for the Unites States Navy (1860) which can be downloaded here:
 
https://archive.org/details/ordnanceinstruc00ordngoog
 
First of all, gun and train tackles were not removed before the gun was fired (pages 45 -47)! Up to the Ready/Fire commands the side tacklemen held the falls taut. At the command "fire!" side tacklemen dropped the tackle and falls and let them run to slow the recoil. The train tacklemen pulled on the falls to take up the slack as the gun recoiled, and then held the gun until it was loaded. However, the train tackle could be unhooked before firing in calm seas and then attached after recoil.
 
Note: The text describes when the gun tackles are hooked to the bulkheads and to the rings on the gun carriage, and which of the gun crew does each task. It never mentions unhooking the gun tackle until the gun is to be secured and stowed.
 
The gun was pointed by hauling it in to the extent allowed by the breeching line, and then one or the other side tackle was hauled in to swing the gun left or right (page 46). Here is a diagram showing pointing, firing and loading:
Breeching must be long enough to allow the gun to clear the gun port at least one foot when hauled fully inboard. Neither breeching nor tackle can be blackened or treated in any other way that reduces flexibility. They are to be made of manila or another pliable rope. (page 150).
 
I haven't read it all, but I couldn't find any description of how the gun tackle falls were to be secured/stowed when not in use. However, at the command "cast loose" the tackles were to be removed from stowage and then hooked to the bulwark and gun carriage. So apparently they were not hooked to the guns while they were stowed.

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As far as placement of the ring bolts for the gun tackle on the bulwarks, the diagram above shows the attachment points spaced far from the gun port to allow a significant angle of pull on the tackle for pointing the gun. But most photos and drawings do not show them  as widely spaced as in the drawing above. I have also see (somewhere) a drawing showing double ring bolts for the train tackle on the bulwarks, on each side of the gun port, spaced fairly close together, in case one bolt fails.
 
In the description of how to point the gun it says the gunners used the handspikes to lever the gun left/right to assist the tackle. So it wasn't necessary for the gun tackles to be spaced widely as shown in the diagram above. The tackle could be used to hold and fine tune the point. The handspikes were also used to raise the breech to free the quoin so it could be repositiond to change the gun elevation.
 
One other detail I had been wondering about - the port tackle (for the gun port lid) was secured to a cleat on the inner top of the gun port. The door/lid was to be raised high to prevent damage from the blast of the gun. After each shot the port lids were closed to provide protection for the gun crews while they were reloading.
 
****
 
There is a lot of useful information in this document. It was written in 1855 and amended in 1860, but gunnery practices probably had not changed much in centuries except as new gun types were introduced. The referenced text describes practices for smooth bore muzzle loading guns.

Took the decision to leave the yards as the last act of the model.
Nowdays I'm working on the bowsprit fittings...

Hey There Jason ..  Ermmm  I may have slightly oversold my knowledge re Main Booms,  just slightly !  LOL (I would deffo recognise one though 😄 )
 
...  Here are a few photos.. Yup! Actual Photos Woo Hoo.
 
They are of The End of the Main Boom, a Sample Mast Hoop and The Boom support on the Mast with Mast Hoop for scale..
 
The photo of the Mast Hoop by itself is of the Hoop in its 'raw' state, made from wood shavings wrapped around a suitable sized dowel, in this case a round profile pencil, then glued..  Once the glue has set I put the whole assembly into a mini wood lathe and holding (carefully at both ends!) a craft knife I gently lowered the blade to the revolving pencil till the rings were separated..  It is un-sanded and pretty much straight from manufacture, I lightly cleaned it up and sanded it gently on the other photo, it still needs further sanding cleaning and staining.  I made approx 15 with this method in very short time, I will use the best 8 or so (further research needed here lol)
Any Questions please ask away.. Particularly about Ballahoo Schooner Booms circa 1805 😉  Spoiler Alert.. They are Wooden !
 
All The Very Best Folks And Thanks For Dropping By And Giving A Like..
 
Eamonn
 

Hi Stergios, wondering if you are still progressing on Snake?  Looking forward to seeing some more updates.  I'm setting myself the goal of finishing mine within next 3 months or so...

Hi Eamonn,
 
Please share pictures of the main boom to which you are the main boom expert, may come in handy as about to go there myself, or indeed any pictures of progress as long as they involve pins and clamps 🙂
 
All the best

Hi Folks..  Update Time Again ..  I have almost completed the Main Boom (after much research, then some more research for good measure.. am now widely acknowledged as the local authority on Schooner Booms circa 1805..  conclusion.. I can confirm they are the bits that stick out from the mast in a front/back direction 😉 😐) and decided to revisit my Mast Hoops, the original attempt was done quiet some time ago and though satisfied I'm by no means fully happy with them.. I have as we speak some newer versions done and variations on same using Cream coloured paper and also some long wood shavings made specifically.. (Hopes are high for the wood shavings.. there I said it !... Of course this has just put a jinx on them 😖 😇 )  I will post some photos shortly, or as soon as I clean off the work table cos right now the words Blast Radius apply to it with wood shavings all over the gaff (sic)
 
All The Best For Now
 
Eamonn .. The Ballahoo Main Boom Expert

hope this comes out, rigging and aerials left to do, then ballasting
 
video-1583430167.mp4

Hi Stergios, wondering if you are still progressing on Snake?  Looking forward to seeing some more updates.  I'm setting myself the goal of finishing mine within next 3 months or so...

Hi guys.
Some pics from my recent workout...
Now its time to find the more right place to fix the tackle for the gaff boom topping lifts: on the channell or on the deck... 

Hi there,
all you steam-paddle-boat lovers
since I was a teen I had an eye on this lovely boat.  It is the long time already out of production vintage Billing Boats kit named "HJEJLEN" Golden Plover, German : Goldregenpfeifer.
A few days ago I could hardly believe my luck in finding this offered complete kit-built boat, on Ebay, a bit damaged, together with a suit-taylored glass case, so I invested a drive to the seller in the region of Bremen area, and picked it up.
 
After thorough inspection back home I determined the minimum of parts and components required to restore and overhaul the charming old lady. I shall show the sequences of recovery and restoration in the next weeks to come, here in this tread.
As this will be no complete new build, but certainly worth an shorter thread on this forum, as I`m sure that there is interest for this model by the one or other fellow member.
Credit goes to the late father of the seller who built this steamer many years ago. It is known to be the oldest live steam, still cruising boat with passengers in the waters of Silkeborg in Denmark
 
Nils
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 

name giver birdie, Hjejlen, Golden plover, Goldregenpfeifer
 
 

Welcome to this topic Mark and Lars/Peter, and B.E.
and many thanks for your kind comments.
Also thanks to the "likes"
For this kit I`m missing the 2 bullseyes for sidewise in the front section of the hull, and the golden plover figurehead for the upper bow post. Alternative parts are now ordered. The stand looks quite flimsy, so I decided to make pedestals from brass / wooden candle holders with a shaped outcuts for the keel to fit into. Small M3 screws hold these pedestals  firmly to the keel. they will fit directly to the baseplate of the glass casing.
The two ( meanwhile come loose) paddle wheels were glued to the hull. Now both paddle wheels have become an brass axis between outside spashguards segments and the hull. I am intending to place crew and passengers on board, like I did wth the Bohuslän steamer. Its not easy to find the right scale figures, and there are so many non occupied benches. I placed the benches on the upper aft deck, turned around, now back to back 180°, so that the passengers will face the water side of the rivers and lakes for a better view. The roof of the front well also requires some additional holding posts, as the current ones are quite flimsy, and therefore the roof quite instable
Also the ships boat is not in correct scale, so there will be an alternative boat fitted under the davits....
 
Nils
 

this is the "old" stand
 

the wood / brass new pedestals
 

New pedestals fitted to the keel (they had to be low in hight, due to the limited glass case hight )
 

the new brass axis for the paddle wheels, also to make them turnable
 

crew and passenger figures, prior to painting job
 

After paint job, now passengers and 6 head-crew boarded, ready for river- and lake cruise at Silkeborg
 
Nils
 

 
 

on port side the paddle scoops were mounted, facing to the wrong side. I dd`nt want to disassemble  the paddle wheel, as the failure is not so obvious to be seen anyhow
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

Progress is glacial.  The ratlines for the mainmast shrouds are now done and some progress has been made on the mizzen ratlines.  My computer went berserk with an update of Windows 10 which didn't help.  Here are the port ratlines for the mainmast.  Fortunately the ones on the other side are exactly the same.
 

Hi Mike, I'd really suggest you do a little research before you start     I think your approach to build the kit following the plans and your heart is definitely the way to go, people may have opinions but nothing can be proven.  Sure this will build up into a beautiful model.  Definitely following this one.  

Post 75

I have diverted from rigging the Bowsprit to fit the Cat Block and tackle to the catheads so I can assess the relative position of the anchor gear in relation to the Bowsprit shrouds.

 
Cat Block

This is traditionally a substantial iron bound block with hook used to raise the anchor.

4615
Steel indicates a 12” block which scales to 4.8mm. I have gone with a 4mm block, 5mm looked just too large in relation to the Cathead.

The ‘iron’ strapping is applied to the block and a hook inserted.

 
Cat Tackle

The tackle which runs between the Cathead sheaves and the block comprises 3” line. I have opted for Syren 0.3mm line.

This is attached to an eyebolt beneath the Cathead, rove thro’ the sheaves and belayed inboard to a cleat on the Cathead upright.
With the Shroud held in position as shown both in the Alert Book and the kit instructions, a problem is immediately highlighted.


4610
As can be seen with the Starboard anchor the whole arrangement sits behind the shroud and the anchor could not be worked without fouling.

 

4617
On the Port side the situation is the same except the angle of the shroud which is less due to the offset Bowsprit, is closer to the anchor.


Cheerful model
To confuse matters this shot of the Cheerful model does show the anchor tackle inside of the shroud lanyards, but the anchor is much smaller than on Alert, and looks to slip easily between shroud and stem.

 
Moving onto a stowed anchor


4621
This is a mock-up with the anchor in the only stowed position available. For the purpose of the exercise the anchor is a Caldercraft version which is close to the kit anchor size.

 

4619
In this shot the anchor ring is still attached to the cat hook, but the stopper is also deployed.

 
The Stopper, a heavier line, I used 0.63mm, is used to secure the anchor ring. It is knotted on one end, passes thro’ an eyebolt on the forward side of the Cathead, thro’ the anchor ring, thro’ the snatch block on the aft side of the Cathead and is secured to a timberhead.


4628
In this shot the Cat hook has been detached and the anchor ring is held by the stopper. This would be the normal arrangement once an anchor had been raised.

 

4626
With the anchor stowed the original position of the shroud connection just doesn’t work. The least impracticable position seems to be between the hawse hole and the Cathead bracket.

 
Time to see how the re-positioned shrouds work out.


4630(2)
The anchor cable running inside the shrouds is not an issue.

 

4633
This is the unprepped kit anchor which I will use but the stock will have to be replaced.

These anchors do look large for the model, but they are of the given scale dimensions.

With the re-positioned shroud the anchor can be displayed hanging from the Cat block.


4634(2)
That Bowsprit is some spar, they should have named the cutter Narwhal.


4635
I think the shrouds look ok in this position, the Alert book drawings are not very helpful, but the photo’s of Hawke do appear to show the shrouds closer to the position above.

4637
I suppose I could have winged it and simply lashed the anchors to the rail as per the kit, but for those with eyes to see, letting go of the anchor would have been very interesting.

 
 
B.E.

28/02/2020

Having nearly finished Snake (been on hiatus for a while) and determined to finish, in retrospect I think I should have gone with 'Cruizer' for among the following reasons:
 Copper plating is not an easy out, its time consuming in of itself.  You could always add it to a Cruizer model by buying separately if you desire.  The masting and rigging is slightly less involved, 2 masts vs 3 - Snake is my first build and Cruizer might have been slightly simpler to get head around trigging and also less repetition

I built Cruiser with some modifications to better represent the class. Materials are generally good, as are the plans. As an early CC kit the instructions are lacking badly. I barely used them anyway, but depending on your experience level it's something to keep in mind. 
 
The link to my build is in the "completed section of my signature. 
 
 

Here's the main sling installed
 

Mark - where does one buy mica for this purpose?  

Thanks, Siggi, this is very helpful. druxey has also explained to me how I might use mica for the glass, and this would certainly work better in the sense of much thinner windows.
Here is what that the detail would look like:
 

I will pick up some mica and see how this might work.
 
Mark

Thanks @Mirabell61 @yvesvidal
 
Coils around the main mast. 
 

Post 73.

 
Rattlin’ down

 For this I am using Syren 0.20mm ø line equivalent to 1½” circumference.

 I have opted for a 13” spacing (5mm) which should result in around 35 lines across the shrouds.


4559(2)
I simply can’t be doing the little eye fastenings to the outer shrouds at this scale but clove hitches are used on shrouds 2 and 3.

Altho’ the Alert book shows wooden shroud battens (Sheer poles) above the deadeyes I’m not convinced they were generally in use at this time so I have omitted them.


4564

4570
My very experienced Topman old Bob having previously served with distinction on both Pickle and Pegasus, has come out of retirement to check out the ratlins.

 

4573
You can tell from the soles of old Bob’s feet that the ratlins have been freshly tarred, altho’ you’re only likely to find him in this position when he’s overdone it with the grog ration.

 
On the subject of tarring the ratlines the kit instructions suggest colouring the lines post fitting using stain or India ink.

This is a very bad idea, stain the line before you use it.

 
The knots are painted with diluted pva and close-trimmed using a scalpel blade.


4565(2)
Looking at the photo’s I may have to fiddle with one or two of the ratlines but the main objective to avoid any distortion to the shrouds has been achieved.

I can now feed the yard and sail lines thro’ the shrouds to belay, and continue with the rigging.
 
B.E.

23/02/2020

 
 

Thank you Michael 🙂
 
Post 72
 
Time for a general tidy-up
 
Over the past few days I have been attending to sorting out some of the rigging jobs and tidying up lines.

4507
The running backstay tackles have been completed with hooks to attach to the iron hull plates.

4513
The Stay and Preventer stay lanyards are now in place.
 
 
Topsail Yard
 
In addition to the centre tye block, standing clew line blocks are required.
 

4514
The given 3mm blocks indicated in the kit instructions are about right for size at scale.
 
The kit shows a truss to secure the yard to the mast. Apart from the historical evidence indicating to the contrary, such a fitting would need to be quite slack to allow movement of the yard.
 
On a model however, it would help stabilise the yard and make rigging easier.
I fitted the halyard tackle with a 0.20mm line running down to the deck to belay on a port side mast cleat.
 

4517
At the yard arms are the two T’gallant sheet blocks also 3mm.
Secured around the Topmast head above the Topsail yard are blocks in a span for the T’gallant sheet falls.
 
The Alert Book once again has contrary information; drawing H6 shows blocks in a span, whereas Drawings H9 and H22/1 (close detail) indicates thimbles in a span.

4519
It looks to me that the Hawke model has thimbles so I will go with those.
It is easier to do this before the mast cap is put into place, that way the span can be formed off model and then slipped over the masthead.
 
Completing the T’gallant mast and Yard
 
 

04531
A sheave has been added to the mast for the yard halyard and a truck made for the top.
The mast can now be set in place. It shouldn’t be necessary to glue either mast or cap if the fit is correct.
 
T’Gallant Yard
This is a simple affair which apart from the central eye spliced tye has no other fittings before the yard is raised.
The only controlling lines are the Bowlines running forward to the Bowsprit end which will hold it square but there are no aft running lines to counter the forward pull.
 
Without the benefit of trusses and pins, stabilising the yards becomes a delicate balancing act.
 

04516
The first thing to fix are the topsail sheets and clews. Attaching the sheets holds the spread-sail yard down whilst the clews pull the topsail yard down and counter the pull of the sheets on the spread-sail yard.
 
Even at this stage the yards are held square to the mast, but the later addition of braces and bowlines will secure any lateral movement.
 
The T’gallant yard is the most difficult yard to stabilise.
I may have to resort to a small pin to hold it against the mast to get the required tension on the Bowlines.
 
Boom sheet
So, I can finally set the Boom topping lift I now need to attend to the boom sheet tackle, to counter the pull of the lift.
 

04504
For this I am using 4mm double and single blocks coupled with 0.45mm line for the tackle falls.
 
The shroud cleats have now been attached.
 

04510
Tricky little beggars to get in place inside the shrouds, I hold them in place with pva and then add the lashing.
 

04535
Before I make any permanent attachments to the cleats I need to attend to the rattlin’ down otherwise I will be working around lines running inside the shrouds which is not ideal.
 

04524(2)

04526(2)
Starting to look a little more ship shape now, but there’s still a way to go.
 
B.E.
21/02/2020
 

Hey Mike, can definitely relate!  The CC Diana kit predates the precut strip approach and is exactly what you are dealing with.  What I found especially tricky was keeping the sides of the gunport vertical (parallel with hypothetical frames), but the top/sill parallel to the sheer of the deck.  Can't tell from your photos whether the rearmost ports are completely square or not from your photos.  Anyway, congrats on reaching this stage, looks more like a man o' war now than a bathtub, very satisfying I'm sure.

Finally done laying my "scratchbuilt" maple deck! 
 
Once it has been cleaned up i will post some comparison photos with the engraved. I think i took the right decision but the engraved would had saved me alot of time. But i want it to go better with my other builds so maple it is.
 
A couple of tips if you want to do it yourself is that you try to get hold of better quality wood that you dont have to sand on the sides. Also having a disksander for the tips is extremily helpful.