Beef Wellington

Thanks everyone, need to record a few things before moving on too much further:
 
Tackles:
Boy, these blighters take time.  I will definitely not be fully rigging each gun, but will look to rig those fall into possibly the 'noticeable in the background' category.  Here's the method I found works best for me.  Apologies for the photos, an iPhone is really not the best at trying to photograph tiny objects suspended in the air.
 
A hook was threaded with 0.3mm Syren line and some overhand knots tied to seize this securely.  Drop of GS Hypo cement to keep secure before trimming excess.  The long ends are then placed around the block and loose overhand knot tied.
 

 
A length of line for the tackle fall is then inserted into the loop and then threaded back through itself as for a false splice.

 
Pulling the overhand know tight around the block, and simultaneously tightening the false splice secures the knot around the block.  Another small drop of GS Hypo cement on the false splice helps keep this secure, and placing the end of the stropping line into 'helping hands' helps keep the knot tight while the cement dries.

 
Slightly weighting the tackle fall line (in this case with tweezers) allows the alignment if the block to be tweaked before the cement sets fully.  Thin thread can then be seized around the splice to secure it, I find alternating overhand knots gives a pretty secure and easy result.  Once more, another drop of GS Hypo on the seizing helps ensure this doesn't unravel once trimmed.

 

 
Once completed, I use some dilute PVA glue on the stropping prior to trimming off any excess as some additional insurance as it is a frustrating experience for these to break when frapping.  The tackle falls were then fed through the previously stropped double blocks, and then frapped on the service machine as per a previous post.  The last turn was secured simply by feeding back through the prior turn and pulling taught.  The completed tackle can then be placed where needed and some dilute PVA applied again to the whole tackle - special attention was paid to ensuring the tackle fed through the frapping was secured with glue.  The entire tackle can then be removed once dry and the excess line trimmed.  Its a simple matter to hook these back into position.  Et voila!
 

 
Stove:
The stove has also been given a little more TLC and is now glued into position.  Handles for the boilers were added, as well as rails which were made from brass rod.  The rails were the treated with some JAX 'Brown' to darken it a little a keep it in keeping with the colour of the copper still.  As described in a previous post, I've followed TFFM simulating wooden battens under the custom base plate rather than simulating tiles, they would not been seen in any event once the main riding bitts are in place.  Temporarily putting the fo'c'sl deck in place shows that much of this will be obscured even if the various gratings are made removeable which I plan to do.
 

 
In closing, a quick summary of the 3D printed stove.  With a little work I'm happy with the way this turned out.  Comparison to the kit supplied version shows the dimensions to be a little more authentic, and the detailing is much more pleasing than the approximations on the supplied white metal parts.  To be fair, no work was done to pretty this up, but I'd certainly recommend this as a simple 'upgrade'.
 

 
 
 

Thanks everyone, need to record a few things before moving on too much further:
 
Tackles:
Boy, these blighters take time.  I will definitely not be fully rigging each gun, but will look to rig those fall into possibly the 'noticeable in the background' category.  Here's the method I found works best for me.  Apologies for the photos, an iPhone is really not the best at trying to photograph tiny objects suspended in the air.
 
A hook was threaded with 0.3mm Syren line and some overhand knots tied to seize this securely.  Drop of GS Hypo cement to keep secure before trimming excess.  The long ends are then placed around the block and loose overhand knot tied.
 

 
A length of line for the tackle fall is then inserted into the loop and then threaded back through itself as for a false splice.

 
Pulling the overhand know tight around the block, and simultaneously tightening the false splice secures the knot around the block.  Another small drop of GS Hypo cement on the false splice helps keep this secure, and placing the end of the stropping line into 'helping hands' helps keep the knot tight while the cement dries.

 
Slightly weighting the tackle fall line (in this case with tweezers) allows the alignment if the block to be tweaked before the cement sets fully.  Thin thread can then be seized around the splice to secure it, I find alternating overhand knots gives a pretty secure and easy result.  Once more, another drop of GS Hypo on the seizing helps ensure this doesn't unravel once trimmed.

 

 
Once completed, I use some dilute PVA glue on the stropping prior to trimming off any excess as some additional insurance as it is a frustrating experience for these to break when frapping.  The tackle falls were then fed through the previously stropped double blocks, and then frapped on the service machine as per a previous post.  The last turn was secured simply by feeding back through the prior turn and pulling taught.  The completed tackle can then be placed where needed and some dilute PVA applied again to the whole tackle - special attention was paid to ensuring the tackle fed through the frapping was secured with glue.  The entire tackle can then be removed once dry and the excess line trimmed.  Its a simple matter to hook these back into position.  Et voila!
 

 
Stove:
The stove has also been given a little more TLC and is now glued into position.  Handles for the boilers were added, as well as rails which were made from brass rod.  The rails were the treated with some JAX 'Brown' to darken it a little a keep it in keeping with the colour of the copper still.  As described in a previous post, I've followed TFFM simulating wooden battens under the custom base plate rather than simulating tiles, they would not been seen in any event once the main riding bitts are in place.  Temporarily putting the fo'c'sl deck in place shows that much of this will be obscured even if the various gratings are made removeable which I plan to do.
 

 
In closing, a quick summary of the 3D printed stove.  With a little work I'm happy with the way this turned out.  Comparison to the kit supplied version shows the dimensions to be a little more authentic, and the detailing is much more pleasing than the approximations on the supplied white metal parts.  To be fair, no work was done to pretty this up, but I'd certainly recommend this as a simple 'upgrade'.
 

 
 
 

Thanks everyone, need to record a few things before moving on too much further:
 
Tackles:
Boy, these blighters take time.  I will definitely not be fully rigging each gun, but will look to rig those fall into possibly the 'noticeable in the background' category.  Here's the method I found works best for me.  Apologies for the photos, an iPhone is really not the best at trying to photograph tiny objects suspended in the air.
 
A hook was threaded with 0.3mm Syren line and some overhand knots tied to seize this securely.  Drop of GS Hypo cement to keep secure before trimming excess.  The long ends are then placed around the block and loose overhand knot tied.
 

 
A length of line for the tackle fall is then inserted into the loop and then threaded back through itself as for a false splice.

 
Pulling the overhand know tight around the block, and simultaneously tightening the false splice secures the knot around the block.  Another small drop of GS Hypo cement on the false splice helps keep this secure, and placing the end of the stropping line into 'helping hands' helps keep the knot tight while the cement dries.

 
Slightly weighting the tackle fall line (in this case with tweezers) allows the alignment if the block to be tweaked before the cement sets fully.  Thin thread can then be seized around the splice to secure it, I find alternating overhand knots gives a pretty secure and easy result.  Once more, another drop of GS Hypo on the seizing helps ensure this doesn't unravel once trimmed.

 

 
Once completed, I use some dilute PVA glue on the stropping prior to trimming off any excess as some additional insurance as it is a frustrating experience for these to break when frapping.  The tackle falls were then fed through the previously stropped double blocks, and then frapped on the service machine as per a previous post.  The last turn was secured simply by feeding back through the prior turn and pulling taught.  The completed tackle can then be placed where needed and some dilute PVA applied again to the whole tackle - special attention was paid to ensuring the tackle fed through the frapping was secured with glue.  The entire tackle can then be removed once dry and the excess line trimmed.  Its a simple matter to hook these back into position.  Et voila!
 

 
Stove:
The stove has also been given a little more TLC and is now glued into position.  Handles for the boilers were added, as well as rails which were made from brass rod.  The rails were the treated with some JAX 'Brown' to darken it a little a keep it in keeping with the colour of the copper still.  As described in a previous post, I've followed TFFM simulating wooden battens under the custom base plate rather than simulating tiles, they would not been seen in any event once the main riding bitts are in place.  Temporarily putting the fo'c'sl deck in place shows that much of this will be obscured even if the various gratings are made removeable which I plan to do.
 

 
In closing, a quick summary of the 3D printed stove.  With a little work I'm happy with the way this turned out.  Comparison to the kit supplied version shows the dimensions to be a little more authentic, and the detailing is much more pleasing than the approximations on the supplied white metal parts.  To be fair, no work was done to pretty this up, but I'd certainly recommend this as a simple 'upgrade'.
 

 
 
 

great job. very very impressive.
 
mort

Well build Jason,
love that model....
 
Nils

Today I started with the card templates for cockpit and cabin floor. The floors will be planked and caulked
In order to get acceptable stand hight in the cabin, the floorlevel there was set a bit lower that the one in the cockpit.
also rough checkout for the two berths and the ladder. Will make the final ladder a bit wider.
Without boots and cap father fisherman will find sufficient length in his berth.
 
Nils
 

card templates show the position of the floor levels
 

here the little mini cabin with two berths, access ladder from the companion-way hatch. I intend to install a small iron oven portside of the ladder, and a locker will be set up to the front bulkhead between the  berths footends. Also there must be a fresh air vent intake and an exhaust over roof for the oven

Latest News Folks ..  Well at long last the New Work Room is being built as we speak... Woo Hoo !  All going according to plan it should be completed in a week to 10 days then it's getting my stuff out of storage and making up build tables etc ..  All go here at Glacial Boat Building Ltd (I restarted the company LOL )
 
All The Best Folks
Eamonn

Very nice Stergios, thanks for the photos of your progress!  Rigging is looking very neat and tidy.

Hi Vane, you seem to have quite a few kits underway, don't know how you do it!  Anyway, to your question...I can only share my personal experiences...
 
Lime - rather soft, very pale and not sure how evenly it would take stain if you were looking to colour
Maple - hard, does darken slightly over time from its initial paleness to be not totally dissimilar to tanganika.
Tanganika - in my Snake build I used the supplied Tanganika for the deck and it looked great.  Additional orders I found to be less satisfactory, as well as the wood provided in my Diana kit, as the wood had a very non-scale red/brown grain in the pores which I didn't like
Walnut - nothing more need to be said, but I think I've only experienced the really bad kit supplied stuff so maybe not fair to judge.  But, my personal preference is for a lighter look similar to the contemporary admiralty models.  Think its personal preference on the colour, and the colour does seem to vary a lot, the stuff I've seen tending to be darker.
 
Best of luck agonizing over this!

Hi Vane, you seem to have quite a few kits underway, don't know how you do it!  Anyway, to your question...I can only share my personal experiences...
 
Lime - rather soft, very pale and not sure how evenly it would take stain if you were looking to colour
Maple - hard, does darken slightly over time from its initial paleness to be not totally dissimilar to tanganika.
Tanganika - in my Snake build I used the supplied Tanganika for the deck and it looked great.  Additional orders I found to be less satisfactory, as well as the wood provided in my Diana kit, as the wood had a very non-scale red/brown grain in the pores which I didn't like
Walnut - nothing more need to be said, but I think I've only experienced the really bad kit supplied stuff so maybe not fair to judge.  But, my personal preference is for a lighter look similar to the contemporary admiralty models.  Think its personal preference on the colour, and the colour does seem to vary a lot, the stuff I've seen tending to be darker.
 
Best of luck agonizing over this!

Many thanks for your nice comment Denis,
in the moment I`m trying to find the right floor- levels for work-cockpit, small rudderstand well, cabin ( including more or less the hight in the standing area) where the front deckhouse walls will bring hopefuly adequate standing hight inside the cabin....
 
Nils

the crew member at the helm is either standing in the rather small well for steering and motor operation, or sitting on the deck edge
 

fisher junior is again standing on a chunk of wood with his left leg

may still need to lower the cabin floor a bit
 

the cabin stand hight increases by the deckhouse side walls, anyway we must keep in mind that its a workboat and not a yacht

They had rubber pads on the tracks... Graf Z  looks amazing!

Well our HMS Queen Elizabeth has a Ford Galaxy people carrier that travels around with her   Oh yes and the captain got sacked for using to take the kids to school--- very harsh.,

This is a BF109. The panels are recessed as is the canopy. New trick, painted the canopy black with acrylic then gave it a green wash with Oils that bring up the metal parts are a brush is not thin enough. Then a light wash to bring out the panels. Next will be some light dry brushing to bring out some colour. 
 
Once thats sone on all of the aircraft I’ll add decals them weather 

Don't envy you Greg, think the monotonous tasks just vary by ship and modeling medium 😞  Question though, would the plans have been painted with a land or naval camo?  Thinking greens/browns for the former, and greens/blues for the latter?  I could see it being either consider the GZ's situation.

Don't envy you Greg, think the monotonous tasks just vary by ship and modeling medium 😞  Question though, would the plans have been painted with a land or naval camo?  Thinking greens/browns for the former, and greens/blues for the latter?  I could see it being either consider the GZ's situation.

Nah, you'll go straight to heaven Greg - you have done your penance already doing the cammo.  My vote would be a naval cammo if it is not too late.  This ship was intended for sea operations; the only reason we see their planes over land all the time is that they rarely went to sea.  The exceptions being the seaplanes and maritime patrol aircraft  (especially the 'Condor'); the latter had a grey colour scheme if I remember back from my youth making plastic planes - the memory cells just ain't what they used to be
 
cheers
 
Pat

Base coats done, now to weather

Don't envy you Greg, think the monotonous tasks just vary by ship and modeling medium 😞  Question though, would the plans have been painted with a land or naval camo?  Thinking greens/browns for the former, and greens/blues for the latter?  I could see it being either consider the GZ's situation.

Now that is stunning, really nice idea on the base, and the grounded anchor is a great touch.  Airing my dirty laundry, the reason my Snake is still inches from completion is because I just can't get round to figuring out options for a display base.

Don't envy you Greg, think the monotonous tasks just vary by ship and modeling medium 😞  Question though, would the plans have been painted with a land or naval camo?  Thinking greens/browns for the former, and greens/blues for the latter?  I could see it being either consider the GZ's situation.

Beautiful Nils, love the photos of the outside of the hull, very nice clinker planking.  How exposed will the engine be?  That's a project in its own right I suspect, sadly I'm not very knowledgeable about boat engines to help answer your question, think Wefalck has done that though!

Hi Nils, glad you posted in my log otherwise I wouldn't have known about your new Zeesboot project, quite the scale, I'm sure she'll be stunning and very interesting construction.  Also congratulation on the puppy, we seem to have got ours both at the same time!  Casper looks a real cutie!
 

Another stupid mistake.... instead of adding planks in full length i decided to put smaller pieces of walnut between the gunports to avoid some carving and drilling. It didnt come out well so i only did it on one side. The planks didnt end up straight and there are some minor gaps.  Hopefully this can be filled out before sanding.

Granado is finished! A mere six years after she was started and four years after my last post I've returned to finish her off with the final bits of rigging, anchors and a base.
 

 
The base is rimu timber from an old bookshelf with an edge routed on. I'd always wanted to incorporate the lovely detailed plans of the original vessel from the Greenwich maritime museum.
 

I copied this at a slightly smaller scale and cut them into sections to arrange the profile, plan view, stern and builders details to best effect underneath the model. This is sanwhiched between two 3mm sheets of acrylic and held down with the screws through the base and into the model. Thin routered strips hide the edge.

 
The grounded anchor ties the ship to the base visually and fills a bit of a blank space on the plans.
A rewarding project overall.