Beef Wellington

Happy 2019 everyone!
 
I’ve made some progress over the holidays and last few weeks.  In getting ready for the second planking, I built the stern post and rudder using walnut from Crown Timberyard.  Since I’m not planning on painting the lower hull, I was a bit uncomfortable using the kit wood which had different woods for the rudder and stem versus the keel, leading to a pretty big color difference.  Kit manufacturers really should as a matter of course stock a kit with consistent woods or at least colors/shades.
 
I added brass rod to the stern post to help position it when running the second planking so that it ends up nice and flush.  I built the rudder using in three sections, though the wood is dark and despite marking the edges with pencil, the edges may not show up when the wood is oiled.  I’ll finalize the rudder once the stern post is installed, including adding the bottom sole (the kit rudder is in the right):

I spent some time working on the various hatches for both the gun and main decks.  I originally thought the kit didn’t provide enough grating material so went to buy more but the cost on the Euromodel site was awfully high.  So I went with some gratings from RB Models.  You can see them in the piece on the upper left side of the picture below - really nice quality, but unfortunately the grating openings for the ones I bought ended up being slightly too oversized I thought.

After building the three sets of gratings for the gun deck using the RB Model gratings, I realized that I miscounted the the amount needed relative to what the kit provides.  Stupid me, I double counted the gratings on the gun deck under the opening in the waist, which are also shown in the main deck plans.  Turns out the kit barely gives you enough to complete all the visible gratings, so I went with the kit gratings which are more in scale.  The one piece using the RB Models material is completely hidden so the disparity won’t be noticed.  So, crisis averted but it would be nice if the kit provided more material to be able to construct all gratings (visible and hidden) in the kit, and at least to have some extra in case of mistakes, poor material, etc.
 
In the RB Models piece, you can see the gratings look darker than the kit gratings. I used the brown Age-It from Micromark and really like how it darkened the gratings, which typically seem too light for me.  So, l’ll likely use this to darken the other gratings as well.

I’m still mulling over the ultimate color scheme.  I’m leaning towards keeping the colors simple in browns and black, but have thought about adding reds and/or blues (blue seems to have been used in Swedish ships) for more color.  I’m already using reds and blues on my Pegasus, so I might just stick with browns and black.  Since I’m painting with wood, that would enable me to use the kit cannons and not have to scratch them in redheart, etc.
 
Thanks for looking in!

Seems like it's been forever what with numerous personal issues that needed solving but it's time for an update.  And it feels great to be back in the shop and doing something again.
 
The build jig has the main framing pieces installed, checked for fit and still needs a bit of tweeking to level out for the planking 
 

 
Today I grabbed the bull by the tail and stared the situation squarely in the face, in a manner of speaking.  I laid out and cut the planking for the boat.  There's still a couple pieces uncut but I'm holding off as those are the last ones installed and need to be trimmed to fit.
 
Overall, I'm most impressed with the Yellow Cedar.  Hopefully, over time it will fade in color a bit.   It cut nicely and cleanly and minimal smoke except for some places on the "hidden" side (last photo) where the beam exits the wood there is some splotching which appears to be sap popping and discoloring the wood. I think a bit of sanding will take care of that.  Could also be that the table the wood sits on needs a good cleaning.
 

 

Quick post but it wasn't quick to build 'em: 
 

 

 
... and VS the stock kit piece:
 

 
Man these tiny little guns are A LOT of difficult work for me! The magazine racks on the base are especially nightmarish to put together. 

Thanks for the likes all. 
 
Quick update! The foremast top yard is now complete and attached with a pin and the parrals. Remembered how much I hated doing the parrals on the main mast as it very fiddly and restricted. 
 
Top gallant is now next target to be rigged up ready for permamnt attachment to the mast. 
 

 

Spent a ton of time in the shipyard and made a lot of progress over the weekend. All yards are now in place and have their lifts rigged. I've also rigged the topsail and topgallant braces, as well as the topsail sheets. Made a bunch of rope coils as well, where my variety of line colors becomes a bit obvious, but I'm sure there was plenty of variety in age among lines on the real thing. I'm holding off on the main braces until the rest of the upper rigging is finished so I have room to work. As it is I'm constantly bumping yards and lines while belaying...
 
 

A small update. I made, mounted and rigged the main topsail and topgallant yards. The yards were made from dowel, tapered and shaped. Cleats were added, as required and jackstay eyebolts and rods  were also added. Footropes were added to the topsail yard only. The only rigging to the topgallant yard is the halyard and parrel rope. The topsail yard has the parrel rope, the tie and halyard and lifts. I'm leaving the topsail braces for later.
 
I'm now in the middle of making up the yards for the fore mast.
 
Bob

Happy New Year to all.
 
For reasons that are not clear even to me, I began work on the yards with the main boom and gaff.Each was made from dowel, appropriately tapered. The gaff has strip wood jaws and a parrel made from very small beads. the boom is mounted with a gooseneck made from two eyebolts. Boom rigging consists  of topping lifts and sheets. The gaff rigging has peak and throat halyards and vangs.  I have chosen to omit much of the sail rigging, although I will probably do some limited amount on the square yards.
 
Bob

The ratlines are now complete. Three things are true about doing ratlines: 1) since it is a year or more between times that I do them, I completely forget how to tie clove hitches, and have to look up how to do them each time; 2) once I have tied a few, it's like riding a bike ,and it comes back quickly; and 3) it always feels like I could have, and should have, done them better. Having said all that, I'm happy that they are done and I can move on to more enjoyable things. Time to make , mount and rig some yards.
 
Bob

I've now made up, mounted and rigged the fore top mast.This included the shrouds, two stays and a backstay.The topmast stay runs through a bee block at the bowsprit and then to a tackle hooked to the bow.The jib stay runs through  a traveler at the jibboom and then to a tackle hooked to the bowsprit cap.
 
Next will be the fore topgallant and royal mast.
 
Bob

Main top mast has been made, mounted and rigged. The rigging includes shrouds, backstay and stay. Also mounted thimbles for the topsail yard lifts and blocks  for the fore topgallant yard braces.
 
Next will be the fore top mast.
 
Bob

I've now done the same rigging on the lower foremast as on the main. Pendants, shrouds, sheer poles and the forestay.  I also lashed blocks to the masthead for the gaff peak halyard and the main topmast stay. Next up will be the top masts and their rigging.
 
Bob

More work today  - painting the first of the lid lifting tackle  - then I fitted the remaining five  - next off  tie them and add a bit of paint.
 
Then it will be on to the other side.
 
OC.

Hi 😊

Hi ☺️

Before rigging the guns, I decided to drill all the necessary holes for the various cleats.  The guns and the various other bits and pieces which will eventually be on the deck will make it difficult to do later.  As well, the kevel cleats supplied in the kit made from 2mm ply are  very rough indeed.  Similarly the 2mm ply for the ladders is both rough and out of scale.  I have made replacements which I hope look a little better.
 
Unfortunately the photo is not too clear.  It shows the cleats from the kit (top and bottom) and my replacements - a piece of 2x2mm strip and glued to it a piece of 1x2mm strip.
 

The final product, painted.

This shows the cleats positioned but dry-fitted, and the unfinished ladders I have copied shamelessly from Joe.
 

 
 
 
 

Well here you are!  Happy New Year Sjors to you and Anja.  It seems you are already at the bottom of page 3, but looks like still plenty to go.  A nice change in subject matter, curious how these modern ships go together.

Thanks Rod, Dashi, Fernando, Pat and others recently looking in on the build log.
Shipyard Update:
Slowly been working away tidying up the loose rope ends, esp. the ones the deck.
 
Main and Fore Course Sheets
As a distraction, started on the Sheets and Tacks to the lower sails. Added them in loose to see how they run.
Since I am not adding sails, will still show the sheets, tacks in place hoisted up with the the Clew Garnets.
 
A couple of starter pics, details of the sheet ends and blocks(to EyeBolt, Bumkin, Main Corse Sheet return block):
          
Sheet and Tack coupled to Fore Clew Garnet Block.                   Fore Sheet start from the EyeBolt back through the port fairlead/block 
    
Below: ForeMast Sheet and Tack to the Clew Garnet

Below: MainMast Sheet and Tack to the Clew Garnet. 

Starboard side sheets I added on last night.
 
Next is to add the Spiritsail Course Sheet to the 2 clew lines.
 
Life in the shipyard is always busy, just have to make time to get in there.....
 

Shipyard Update:
The ongoing rolling up of the Rope Ends.
This task(s) is taking some time to get through.
 
Below the Stb. Fore Mast area.  12 rope ends alone in this area.

Below the Port ForeMast Shrouds area. 

Stb. ForeMast Shrouds. I use several ways to tie the rope ends into a loop. This way using a cranked set of tweezers, holds the rope loop(coated in 50/50 pva/water) whilst it dries to form the oval loop shape. After I tie it up onto the shroud, ratlines.

Many more to move onto.
 
 

Shipyard Update:
Mizzen Mast
Starting to clear up the loose rope ends.
 

Port Side:

Starboard Side:
 

Shipyard Update:
Mizzen Topsail Clew and Sheets
A small step to get back into things for the shipyard.
 
Took me a while to work out where I was at with the Rigging - after 2months away from the Yard.
One rigging item I noticed was the Mizzen Topsail Clews and Sheets needed doing.
So there is a set either side of the Mizzen for the Topsail Clew(bottom corner of the sail) to attach to, allowing the sail to be furled up(Clew) and pulled down(Sheet). Well I am nearly 99% that is how it works. 
Below is the Port side setup, notation in the picture folks. Top Yard being the Topsail Yard, lower the Crossjack Yard.

A close up at the end of the Crossjack Yard.

The Clew after coming down from the Topsail Yard - position "98" as per Mr Marquardt AoTS. page 120/121.

And below the bottom of the mizzen, Sheet tied to a cleat. Position "102" as per Mr Marquardt AoTS. page 120/121.

And now I notice I have not left much length in the tail ends of the ropes to roll up.
 
 
 
 
 

Shipyard Update:
Leech and Buntline Blocks
I have been slowly working on adding the Leech and Buntlines to the yards.
 
For the Main & Fore TopSail lines.
Somehow I(someone in the shipyard ?) missed adding the Leech line blocks to the TopSail Yard Double Tye Block.
So instu, I drilled(tunneled) through the top of the block, under the ropes to fit the 2 missing blocks. 

Above: Red arrow points to the 2 x 3mm blocks added to each Tye Block(Fore & Main Topsail Yard)
 
 
 
At the same time I found I'd missed the a 4mm double block(Red Arrow) under the Topmast Trestle which picks up the Leech & Buntline ropes from below.

There is 1 per side under the Trestle.
To add the above, I moved the Lift Block(white arrow) back behind the middle arm. The new run of the Lift rope is actually better.
 
Getting very tight up under the Trestle.
 
  
 
 

Great result with the PE Pat, you really have some fantastic details coming together now.  I can't help but feel this would open up so many opportunities and would love to give it a go myself, combining with the laser cutting.  I really need to figure out some PC drafting software.

Hi folks, another small update.  Now that I have the PE in hand I can progress on a bit; still waiting for the 3D parts (capstan and revised funnel).  I also had some laser parts cut for the engine room skylight as my attempts to make them kept breaking (stiles and rails) as the walls are only .6mm thick and the rails /stiles just .8mm.  They have come up OK considering the size. 
 
One of the reasons for lack of updates is that I had been busy drawing up all these part.  The two sheets of PE are 0.4mm (larger sheet) and 0.2mm.

 
I am in the process of doing the glazing and have added the 'waffle' style ventilation louvres discussed earlier.  The louvers were made from 0.2mm thick brass sheet and folded and soldered to get the effect seen in the photo earlier - they look OK I think?  My biggest decision is whether to add another louvre in the front and after walls.  I show a blank and a louvre version in the photos, but have an additional one of each. 
 
My thoughts are to go for blank (no louvre) as I think there would have been adequate ventilation from the louvres and top pieces?  The reasoning is that the after wall would most likely have been used to store the firehose racks, and supplementary 'L' shaped handle for the Downton pumps (only shipped as required. 
    


I have started on the rod/bar grills for the top pieces with the parts shown before cleaning (one made, one unmade); the rods are only 0.6mm diameter.  These have since been blackened but I forgot to take a photo.  When the glazing in the top pieces have dried completely these will be glued over the windows / glazed parts.

 
I have also made the bases for the pumps, and manufactured one of the two suction plate assemblies required.  The idea was that the connecting pipe(rounded/horseshoe shape) could be cross-connected to any one of three suction pipes (one to each major compartment/space).  The top end of the pipe ran underdeck between the pipe and this plate assembly.  I still have a 7" hose connection plate (single) to make which was the upper deck connection to the pump in the engine room (for firefighting) whereas the other two are for dewatering and transferring freshwater around the ship.  The wood looks rough but I am zoomed right in and actually looks very smooth to the eye.

 
The 'pelorus' has also been completed.  The 'hollow' look of the brass night cover for the compass is a trick of the light as I have painted that face silver to simulate the viewer.
 
These parts will be fitted once the engine room skylight has been fitted.
 
cheers
 
Pat

The first plywood plates are on it.
Strange way of working.
Because there are 3 layers with glue between it I had problems.
I have to soak the wood to bend it and yes.....it let loose.
But I had some spare plywood and I had to use that.
So a little scratch building also.
I know that there are a few caps in it and it needs a lot of filler and sanding but that's oke.
First I can go omg with the planking and try to close the hull.
 
Sjors
 

It is not abandoned.....just on hold.
 
Sjors