Beef Wellington

Anja was asking where the pictures are.....
I think I gonna be old 😂
So here are the pictures.
On the first you see the bulb in shape at one side.
The other one has to be done of course.
Then the planking and filling.
Now it is time for primer.....sanding...filling.....primer etc etc.
 
Sjors
 
 

Hi Jim, just a thought, I wonder if you were to go with the 'yellower' initial colour, it would fit in better to my eye.  You could try doing the spots in relief with a drill bit, and highlighting with a slightly darker colour which I think would be a little subtler.  All artistic opinion of course.  Looks great in any event.

Making rigging progress.
 
Will have more details once I get back from the dentist.  But here is what the longboat looks like today.
 
Just have the bowsprit to install and some running rigging.  Almost there.
 
Gaff was rigged first...then it was time for the shrouds followed by the backstays.  Most of the lines were attached prior to placing this on the model.
 

 


 
Deadeys and shrouds are hooked to the straps.  So they were prepared ahead of time.  Including the straps and hooks for the backstays.
 

Finally the forestay...
 


Note how the straps were bent to fit around the molding.  

The shrouds, backstays and forestay were served but only where they are seized around the mast.  The area served extends about 1" below the where it was seized.   This is an optional detail.  You dont have to do this.  But it does look good.

 
Chuck

Post 59
Assembling the gun Carriages
I did assemble one gun earlier in the build for the purposes of gun port fit, but this is a multi stage and repetitive assembly process  and I decided I should make a start.
To recap...

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I had already made a simple jig to hold the axles.
The axles are rounded at each end to take the Trucks before fitting in the jig for the attachment of the transom on the front axle, and the Bolster on the rear axle.

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One point to note is that the Transom above the front axle is not vertical but should lean back slightly.
I used some 0.7mmø wire, chemically blackened to represent the iron connecting bar which ties the side brackets and supports the carriage bed.

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This is not a quick process, and becomes rather tiresome, but at least not as tiresome as having to make the carriages from scratch.
Removing the lazer burn and rounding the axles is heavy on time and patience, and using a jig for assembly is absolutely necessary.
I decided to construct the carriages before painting and decided on a Red Ochre scheme. Initially I thought about leaving the trucks natural, but to my eye, and as Chuck also found, they didn't look good, so they also had the red ochre treatment.
 
Once the basic assembly is completed there is still a lot to do; ring bolts and eyebolts, capsquares, truck keys, and bolts.
For the carriage ring bolts I used Amati 2mm brass rings which are pretty much true to scale.
For the eye bolts or hoops I also used fine Amati eyebolts, set slightly into the carriages.
For the bolts I also used Amati 10mm fine brass pins. These have slightly domed heads of less than 1mm ø and stems of 0.5mm.
Once I had assembled five carriages I went on to fully complete one example.

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Still some cleaning up to do, the trucks are not glued to the axles.
Drilling the 16 holes to take the various fittings needs to be done carefully, and it is a fiddly little job cutting the bolts and eyebolts to size.

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The eyebolts for the side tackles are set well into the side of the carriage.

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I added Truck keys to retain the trucks on their axles.  
They were made using 0.5mmø pin stems flattened at one end These were then chemically blackened after trimming.
0.60mmø holes were drilled thro' the axles to take the key.

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Only another eleven carriages to go, and then there's the  Carronades, I think I could be some time.
 
B.E.
10/01/2019
 

Thanks Thomas and Rusty,  I surely am glad there's only 12 guns on Cheerful, even so they are big enough to warrant full detailing and all are exposed to full view.
Post 60
Completing the carriages.
Work proceeds on the carriage assembly line.
Making the fittings is a time consuming exercise, the fittings are small and take every opportunity to  wing off into the ether never to be seen again. Regular crawling session around the carpet is part of this process.

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The fittings required for each carriage consists of:
6 pins to represent the bolts.
4 eyebolts ( tackle attachment hoops)
2 ringbolts comprising a modified eyebolt  plus ring( Breeching line)
4 truck keys to retain the trucks on the axles.
OK these were not included in the original plans but I like to fit 'em, and at least in this case the trucks were solid and not held together by six bolts.
On completion of the Carronade carriages I  assembled the long gun six pounder equivalents.
I was able to utilise the carronade jig for assembly, but the procedure is effectively the same.
 
So after nine days, which felt like twice the time, the carriages are completed bar a bit of fettlin'.

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Even so there are still things to do once the barrels are fitted:
2 capsquares to retain the carronade trunnions
2 capsquare hinges ( modified eyebolts)
1 capsquare locking pin plus retaining chain.
 I added these on my 1:64 scale Pegasus guns, so at 1:48 scale it should be easier.

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On this shot the truck keys are evident, made from the fine  brass pin stems flattened at one end.
The Breeching line ring bolts are only temporarily in place for the purpose of the photo.
 
At this point  I do a deck fit to check how the quoins may affect the barrel line along the hull.

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It seems that in the normal position the quoins are a tad fat to allow the barrel to sit horizontally thro' the port.

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For the quoin handles I passed on trying to make them from wood.

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Fortunately Amati 5mm brass belaying pins fit the bill perfectly.

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I will now put the ordnance aside for a while to concentrate on completing other fittings.
 
B.E.
20/01/2019
 
 

Another small update folks.   This shows some of the completed parts in-situ but the 'pelorus' is only dry fitted.  I have yet to add the connection point (hydrant) for the 7" fire pump between the two suction plate assemblies, and a few sounding pipes.  There is also a brass (single) rail to go around this area.
 
Dave, the laser cut came up well; many thanks to you and your mate for organising this for me.  The rod grills are made from PE verticals and .6mm brass wire/rod which I soldered at the ends (each rod) and spot soldered two rods only for the inner ones.  I have rebated a length of 0.5mm brass rod into the centreline piece of the skylight to represent a 'piano style' hinge with the edges screwed off against the sides of the panels in real life.
 
Unfortunately the laser cut ply came up a little darker than the rest of the wood (Kauri) but I think I can live with it   I have also fitted the two 'L' handles for the downton pumps against the rear end of the skylight.  These were only fitted when required.  The dado along the bottom is 8" (actual) which corresponds with the dado on the circular skylights (4 of, still to be made) which will be fitted two abreast between the pelorus and companion, and the other two abreast aft of the companion.



cheers
 
Pat

Well this is it.
 
The BARGE is complete and on it's permanent base. For my purposes as I've said there will be no flags, sweeps or internal decorations.
 
Thanks to everyone for checking in.
 
On to the next project ............................................
 
 
 

The coppering of both sides is now finished and the copper is being polished. I use Proxxon nylon-fleece brushes to clean and brass-wire wheel brushes to polish the copper. The untreated polished copper will accumulate a dark natural patina within a few years.
 
For breaks I'm coppering the lower half of the rudder. This itself was a bit reworked: The front edge was angled 30° to both sides to allow the rudder to turn and the back edge was sanded down to 3mm towards its lowest point.
Also the painting of the hull was started with the yellow strakes while I start wondering how I will ever get the puzzle of the quarter galleries together.
 


Copper partly cleaned on port side
 
 


Rudder being coppered

Nice work Stergios, looks great.

Planking from wale to bulwark capping rail completed. Next to divide the lower hull into sections. This has been done with the use of Ribbands. These are laid at the widest part of the hull at exact distances to match full plank widths. Ribband laid round to bow and stern as naturally a possible.

The top ribband shows that the planks will be too narrow at the bow. Some drop planks will be needed in this area.
 

The lower section at the stern indicates a few stealers will be required where as the top section will have tapered planks. I am going to have to do some calculations to see if this is practical.


One think these ribbands did highlight is that bulkhead 8 is slightly too small. You couldn't see it when doing the first planking but obvious now. You can see this by looking at the ribbands to the far right of the above photograph. A good learning here.
The brass screw head you can see is a BA thread pin that is through a nut set into the bulkhead under the planking for final stand mounting.

Hi guys, right now a couple of pics from my recent step by step progress.
Just finished the backstays and I'm ready to proceed with the fastening of the lines to the belaying pins and the respective rope coils.
I feel that section as a more secure step before I turn to the bowstrip, the running rigging and the final yards assembly.
Thank you.

Finished rudder, covered with oil finish...

Looking good Mike, I find making up gratings tedious but somewhat satisfying and glad it worked out for you.  I have to admire your commitment to painting with wood, especially in a kit, and suspect it takes longer to customize satisfactory solution that building from scratch.

Looking good Mike, I find making up gratings tedious but somewhat satisfying and glad it worked out for you.  I have to admire your commitment to painting with wood, especially in a kit, and suspect it takes longer to customize satisfactory solution that building from scratch.

After assembling the build board, I began assembling the keel pieces.  In the photo below you see the three elements..The rising wood on top,  the two keel pieces glued together in the center and the false keel below that.  I darkened the seam between the two keel parts so they would really stand out using a soft pencil.  I had my two screws and bolts ready as well.

I used the screws to help align the layers and glue them together.  Note how I left all the laser char in place until after all the keel parts were glued together.  I also darkened the seam between the keel and false keel.
 

Then the rising wood was added but first I needed to glue the two nuts into the laser cut holes provided for them.  I simply placed a nut on the table and positioned the rising wood over the top of it.  Then I pressed down firmly to push the wood over the nut.  This placed the nut perfectly.  I added a drop of glue around the nuts perimeter to secure it flush with the bottom of the rising wood.  I was careful not to get any glue on the threads of the nut.
Then I glued it to the top of the keel.  After applying some titebond I actually screwed it into position to be aligned.  The middle keel was intentionally left a bit wider because now I will remove the laser char.  There is more char on the thicker keel pieces so I left that thicker so it wouldnt be over sanded in the process.  It cleaned up pretty good.  I was careful not to remove too much.  I applied some wipe on poly afterwards.

All cleaned up and test fit with the screws on the work base which you might notice I made a bit wider in this final version...The bottom of the base uses another piece of laser cut wood to make sure the screws dont stick out to far on top of the rising wood.  There are several supplied to use as spacers if need be.  Then I removed the keel to start on the rabbet.


To make the rabbet I used a laser cut scraper tool designed especially for the job.  See below as it is pretty self explanatory.  Brass strip filed to a point and used to make the rabbet.

Several light passes at first working from the center outward.  Then I cleaned up the rabbet with some sand paper and files.

To finish off the keel, I used some 20 pound black fishing line for the bolts.  I realize these would have been copper but I really dont like that look.  But you guys can substitute if you prefer.   I like them blackened as shown instead.  Next up I will detail how to build the frames.
 

Happy 2019 everyone!
 
I’ve made some progress over the holidays and last few weeks.  In getting ready for the second planking, I built the stern post and rudder using walnut from Crown Timberyard.  Since I’m not planning on painting the lower hull, I was a bit uncomfortable using the kit wood which had different woods for the rudder and stem versus the keel, leading to a pretty big color difference.  Kit manufacturers really should as a matter of course stock a kit with consistent woods or at least colors/shades.
 
I added brass rod to the stern post to help position it when running the second planking so that it ends up nice and flush.  I built the rudder using in three sections, though the wood is dark and despite marking the edges with pencil, the edges may not show up when the wood is oiled.  I’ll finalize the rudder once the stern post is installed, including adding the bottom sole (the kit rudder is in the right):

I spent some time working on the various hatches for both the gun and main decks.  I originally thought the kit didn’t provide enough grating material so went to buy more but the cost on the Euromodel site was awfully high.  So I went with some gratings from RB Models.  You can see them in the piece on the upper left side of the picture below - really nice quality, but unfortunately the grating openings for the ones I bought ended up being slightly too oversized I thought.

After building the three sets of gratings for the gun deck using the RB Model gratings, I realized that I miscounted the the amount needed relative to what the kit provides.  Stupid me, I double counted the gratings on the gun deck under the opening in the waist, which are also shown in the main deck plans.  Turns out the kit barely gives you enough to complete all the visible gratings, so I went with the kit gratings which are more in scale.  The one piece using the RB Models material is completely hidden so the disparity won’t be noticed.  So, crisis averted but it would be nice if the kit provided more material to be able to construct all gratings (visible and hidden) in the kit, and at least to have some extra in case of mistakes, poor material, etc.
 
In the RB Models piece, you can see the gratings look darker than the kit gratings. I used the brown Age-It from Micromark and really like how it darkened the gratings, which typically seem too light for me.  So, l’ll likely use this to darken the other gratings as well.

I’m still mulling over the ultimate color scheme.  I’m leaning towards keeping the colors simple in browns and black, but have thought about adding reds and/or blues (blue seems to have been used in Swedish ships) for more color.  I’m already using reds and blues on my Pegasus, so I might just stick with browns and black.  Since I’m painting with wood, that would enable me to use the kit cannons and not have to scratch them in redheart, etc.
 
Thanks for looking in!

Seems like it's been forever what with numerous personal issues that needed solving but it's time for an update.  And it feels great to be back in the shop and doing something again.
 
The build jig has the main framing pieces installed, checked for fit and still needs a bit of tweeking to level out for the planking 
 

 
Today I grabbed the bull by the tail and stared the situation squarely in the face, in a manner of speaking.  I laid out and cut the planking for the boat.  There's still a couple pieces uncut but I'm holding off as those are the last ones installed and need to be trimmed to fit.
 
Overall, I'm most impressed with the Yellow Cedar.  Hopefully, over time it will fade in color a bit.   It cut nicely and cleanly and minimal smoke except for some places on the "hidden" side (last photo) where the beam exits the wood there is some splotching which appears to be sap popping and discoloring the wood. I think a bit of sanding will take care of that.  Could also be that the table the wood sits on needs a good cleaning.
 

 

Quick post but it wasn't quick to build 'em: 
 

 

 
... and VS the stock kit piece:
 

 
Man these tiny little guns are A LOT of difficult work for me! The magazine racks on the base are especially nightmarish to put together. 

Thanks for the likes all. 
 
Quick update! The foremast top yard is now complete and attached with a pin and the parrals. Remembered how much I hated doing the parrals on the main mast as it very fiddly and restricted. 
 
Top gallant is now next target to be rigged up ready for permamnt attachment to the mast. 
 

 

Spent a ton of time in the shipyard and made a lot of progress over the weekend. All yards are now in place and have their lifts rigged. I've also rigged the topsail and topgallant braces, as well as the topsail sheets. Made a bunch of rope coils as well, where my variety of line colors becomes a bit obvious, but I'm sure there was plenty of variety in age among lines on the real thing. I'm holding off on the main braces until the rest of the upper rigging is finished so I have room to work. As it is I'm constantly bumping yards and lines while belaying...
 
 

A small update. I made, mounted and rigged the main topsail and topgallant yards. The yards were made from dowel, tapered and shaped. Cleats were added, as required and jackstay eyebolts and rods  were also added. Footropes were added to the topsail yard only. The only rigging to the topgallant yard is the halyard and parrel rope. The topsail yard has the parrel rope, the tie and halyard and lifts. I'm leaving the topsail braces for later.
 
I'm now in the middle of making up the yards for the fore mast.
 
Bob

Happy New Year to all.
 
For reasons that are not clear even to me, I began work on the yards with the main boom and gaff.Each was made from dowel, appropriately tapered. The gaff has strip wood jaws and a parrel made from very small beads. the boom is mounted with a gooseneck made from two eyebolts. Boom rigging consists  of topping lifts and sheets. The gaff rigging has peak and throat halyards and vangs.  I have chosen to omit much of the sail rigging, although I will probably do some limited amount on the square yards.
 
Bob

The ratlines are now complete. Three things are true about doing ratlines: 1) since it is a year or more between times that I do them, I completely forget how to tie clove hitches, and have to look up how to do them each time; 2) once I have tied a few, it's like riding a bike ,and it comes back quickly; and 3) it always feels like I could have, and should have, done them better. Having said all that, I'm happy that they are done and I can move on to more enjoyable things. Time to make , mount and rig some yards.
 
Bob

I've now made up, mounted and rigged the fore top mast.This included the shrouds, two stays and a backstay.The topmast stay runs through a bee block at the bowsprit and then to a tackle hooked to the bow.The jib stay runs through  a traveler at the jibboom and then to a tackle hooked to the bowsprit cap.
 
Next will be the fore topgallant and royal mast.
 
Bob

Main top mast has been made, mounted and rigged. The rigging includes shrouds, backstay and stay. Also mounted thimbles for the topsail yard lifts and blocks  for the fore topgallant yard braces.
 
Next will be the fore top mast.
 
Bob