Beef Wellington

Hi Mark - contemporary models seem to be a mix of blue and black on the stem so it seems 'correct' to go with either, but you are correct that the Bellona model is blue, the view below of the same model shows it a little more clearly.
 

Hi Mark - contemporary models seem to be a mix of blue and black on the stem so it seems 'correct' to go with either, but you are correct that the Bellona model is blue, the view below of the same model shows it a little more clearly.
 

Hi Mark - contemporary models seem to be a mix of blue and black on the stem so it seems 'correct' to go with either, but you are correct that the Bellona model is blue, the view below of the same model shows it a little more clearly.
 

Last night I was looking at various images I have of the Bellona's bow, and suddenly realized that the paint on the stem is dark blue, not the black of the wales. This changes everything! I will need to paint the blue with opaque acrylic paint for the friezes, and I can do the same for the stem. So I can cut in a clean line with paint, rather than staining black and worrying about the stain running.
 
It never hurts to look at the sources again...

Very interesting Rob, where did you obtain the log again? - I'd be interested to go through a similar exercise.  Good to see 'Jason' gets a mention on page 132!  BTW - I wonder if the ship's name it looked like you had difficulty transcribing on same page is Melpomene?

Update :
 
started the main mast rigging today. New to me are the toggle conections in combination with the violin block tackles of the shrouds. Even the shroud fastening to the bulwark is made with a sticked through loop and a toggle stick on the outside bulwark. There will be six violin block tackles for the main mast. 
This ship bears no ratlines with the shrouds, as the sails are operated ( the large yard) and controlled from deck.....
 
Nils
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Hi Rob, really beautiful work, those rails look nicely in proportion and certainly 'finer' than the kit's walnut.  Colours are always hard to judge in photos but glad you were able to tone those down a bit.  Are you planning to attach all of the trim at this point?  I'm planning to wait until I have the quarter deck in place before going any higher than the sheer rail with trim to allow any compromises with the line of the wale and deck to get figured out....and also whatever is going to happen with the headworks.
 
Tell your son he did a really nice job on his Red Arrow.  I'm finding my son doesn't quite have the same passion for plastic modeling and hes been chipping away at a model of the Tirpitz for quite some time.  I've promised him I'll post a picture of it when he finishes!

Excellent work on the rigging Jesse, think you've captured the scale beautifully.  The colours really look spot on as well complimenting the rest of the model.  Well done.

For the Gun port openings, I would say, there are 2 ways to align each opening part. An upper part and a lower part are inserted horizontally. I did trace the parts inside and outside, as it can be seen on the last picture of the previous post. The alignment of the gunport can be done on one or the other part but I think greater precision can be achieved with the inside line because this is the part which will be seen, If we check the alignment , we will check it with the inner part not the outside one, planking being installed or not.

Excellent work on the rigging Jesse, think you've captured the scale beautifully.  The colours really look spot on as well complimenting the rest of the model.  Well done.

Excellent work on the rigging Jesse, think you've captured the scale beautifully.  The colours really look spot on as well complimenting the rest of the model.  Well done.

Excellent work on the rigging Jesse, think you've captured the scale beautifully.  The colours really look spot on as well complimenting the rest of the model.  Well done.

Post 21
Fashion Pieces.

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I followed Chuck's method of tracing the outline onto card to form a template of the Fashion pieces.

7243
Even so I found they needed some tweaking to fit the actual profile on the model, and a little water/heat bending around a shallow curve to match the contour of the hull.

7246
Bamboo tree nails were used to further secure the Fashion pieces.

7247
The instructions call for the back edge of the fashion piece to overhang the transom by 1/32" (0.8mm) I used a short length of the second layer wale planking as a guide.

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Completed bar the sanding

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So what d'ye think Gromit?
 
........Movin' on
 
B.E.
28/03/2018
 

Excellent work on the rigging Jesse, think you've captured the scale beautifully.  The colours really look spot on as well complimenting the rest of the model.  Well done.

Excellent work on the rigging Jesse, think you've captured the scale beautifully.  The colours really look spot on as well complimenting the rest of the model.  Well done.

Excellent work on the rigging Jesse, think you've captured the scale beautifully.  The colours really look spot on as well complimenting the rest of the model.  Well done.

Added the sheer poles fruttock staves and fruttock shrouds. The wood supplied with the kit was too weak for the sheer poles and fruttock staves so I sanded down toothpicks for them, worked much better. Looking at the plans I probably should have the poles about a mm lower but will go with them as they are.
 
(Somehow the pictures loaded in the opposite order that I added them. They should show from the last one to the first)
 
Jesse

Scharnhorst issue 37

Time for an intermission. We get to take a break from the planking marathon to fit a first batch of photo etch to the forward upper deck structures.

Knees on two of the thwarts fitted one more to go plus counter and stem knees

Thanks for all the encouragement and likes! 
 
Completed the Main preventer stay, Fore stay and the Fore preventer stay. Same process as the Main stay. I did a much simpler mouse for these and can't visually tell any difference.  It was much easier to do the lanyards on the Fore stays because the location of the hearts. If only the rest of it could be this easy to get to, lol. I couldn't find any illustrations on the proper way to tie off the lanyards so I just did what I could on these.
 
Jesse

Rigged the lanyards through the deadeyes. Got all the lower shrouds completed.
 
Jesse

A lot of progress made (for me anyway)…
 
First of all I’ve changed my mind regarding the coamings and hatches. I was going to plank around them but with it being my first attempt at proper planking I thought I would have enough to worry about so went for the simpler option of planking underneath them.
 
As this was going to be my approach I needed to shape the underside of the coamings and hatches to match the curvature of the finished deck so used this good method I’ve seen others use here.

 
After I had rounded the fore hatch for the ladder-way, I added some thin sections to give the hatch some illusion of depth (picture later)
 
Now comes the part I’ve really been really looking forward to, decking the Gun Deck. I’m using 3.4mm boxwood and pencil caulking as mentioned earlier. The maximum plank length will be 90mm.
 
I drew this plan a while ago and as you can see I’m intend using a three butt shift pattern, except down the centre where the planks are short enough anyway.

 
I plan to have a waterway strip, which is not shown on my plan, but this will be a flat affair and not sloping as shown in the FFM books.
 
I also want to have a go at some fancy plank joints around the acute curves. I’m not sure what these are called specifically but I think they are hooded planks but I’ve seen other terms used such as, nibbling and joggling but here is a picture of what I will actually be attempting.

 
I wish I could find a single resource on the different types of edge planking used and the timelines when they were typically used, does anyone know of such a resource?
 
I’ll go with the term “hooded planks” until someone corrects me. The only problem I have with these joints is my boxwood stock consists of 3.4, 4.5, and 8mm (limited) but I’ll have a go using the 4.5mm for the Hooded planks. I think really it should be about 1.5 times wider than the standard width so 5mm would have been better. If it doesn’t look right it will be hidden anyway so no big deal.
 
First plank down is along the full length of the deck to make sure those either side will be lined up correctly.

 
I started the shift pattern once clear of the smaller coamings. Note the ladder-way hatch lining and the visible decking below.

 
All furniture dry fitted to check they covered up my plank edges

 
Fiddlesticks (**&&&***!!!) Just when I thought things were going well. That’s the second time I’ve knocked this one off so it’s stopping off for now

 
 
Here is the decking done as far as I can for now.

 

 

 

 

 
 
With deck furniture, dry fitted

 
 
 
I really enjoyed the decking but I was glad to finish, if that makes sense.
 
The Chuck guns and carriages have now arrived which didn’t take as long as I thought they would (11 days not 20 as I was told). I had to pay VAT and a customs charge as expected.
 
The laser cut parts look really clean and a lot better than the Amati upgrade ones.

 
 
I will build one of these up to do my comparisons with the Fly supplied and Upgrade ones and check the gun heights for the gun ports.
 
Hope to have another update soon.
 

Again, thank you for all the kind words and likes to my post about my Mom.  Today would have been her Birthday. 
 
610 Hours into the journey.  I think I am at the most fun part of the build yet!  The installation of the ribbands has proved to be very therapeutic and enjoyable. After the ribbands are installed, I can now beginning to apply finish to those sections that are complete.  I am using turpentine and wax as Ed recommends in his book.  You have to be incredibly diligent and disciplined on what you finish because it will literally be finished after that - no glue will stick...  That being said, after applying the wax and turpentine, I sand the spots over the brass bolts to remove the residual CA that I spoke of in my last post. 
 
I am very happy with the results.  The ribband installation is a slow process.  Each piece has to be test fit and many have to be steam bent before applying.
 
More next week.

Gary

Tank you, Alberto 
 
 

Nicely done, definitely worth the extra effort on the dummy carriages.  Are you going to consider upgrading the metal carriages as well?