Beef Wellington

I am really happy to see this, and most importantly, that everyone can work together for the benefit of both companies concerned and the broader ship modeling community.

at last i have managed to get a few days off, and a few hours in on the build
 
having been corrected and forced to see the errors of my ways i did a bit of a revamp on the signal deck, for the time being is will now leave this and move on back to the superstructure

 
i decided to define the port holes better than the original idea I had, and actually used the brass ones from the Amerigo Vespucci kit that i abandoned a good few years ago, they stick out of the superstructure more than they should but for now they will do, the liners for the square ones look ok, but one or two of them look slightly wonky
 




Edited just now by KEVIN_ARIS

I am really happy to see this, and most importantly, that everyone can work together for the benefit of both companies concerned and the broader ship modeling community.

Please give our latest sponsor, Master Korabel a warm welcome.  You can see their banner on our forum.  Click over to their website and check out their kits and other offerings.  I will also let you folks know that MK and Syren Ship Model Company are in discussions to create a collaborative project together.  One that will show how two similar companies from across the world can partner to develop projects and offerings together.  Stay tuned for more details as this develops.
 
Please give them a warm welcome.
 
Chuck
 

My respect, colleagues!
We are pleased to be on this forum in a new status.
I am very glad that there will be a joint project between our companies and development teams.
I hope it will be interesting and productive!
 
Eugeny Mikhailov,
kits developer
"MasterKorabel"

Hi my friend, Nigel;
Thank you for your kind welcome. Me too having major changes in my life, I had to leave out my build. I wish everything is going good for you and your dock becomes more busy and intense than erstwhile. It's always a privilege to see you on work...
And a little progress. Doing as much as I can.
Actually, maybe this is a shame to share those 9 ratline as a progress but they are the evidence of my work enthusiasm...
 

Don't you worry : yes, it is a bit of a setback, but there's no structural harm done.
Furthermore, be assured : it is the kind of mistakes we all make.
And if I do , I'll take a deep breath, go out for a walk, perhaps a good beer, and make it all over again.

Hi Guys,
 
Thanks for the good words and the likes gents, most appreciated. 
 
It's about time I gave an update and that will be happening very soon, I must admit to have taken a short break but I am back in the game now.
 
Gary, I will PM you and let you know my thoughts.
 
rony,  When doing the planking I use "Push Pins", these have a shoulder on them which leans onto the plank and keeps them in place, to cement them, I first soak the planks for 10 - 15 minutes, wipe off any surplus water and then use a thick super glue gel, you have to be quick and accurate as the glue will set in seconds, it can also be a bit messy if you get it wrong. Hope that answers your question mate.
 
Denis, I promised you some better pictures of the deck with the lighter coloured treenails, hope these do the job mate.
                                 
OK, now for a quick update, second planking is now complete and as you will see it does look a little different, because below the waterline will be coppered I didn't want to use all my Swiss Pear and so used the kit Walnut to finish off. 
        
As you can see I haven't put the stem or keel in yet, they were the next job to be done, unfortunately no pictures.
 
Coppering has started, and finished, I used the individual plates as supplied by Caldercraft, I like these plates and they are easy to work with, my one problem was that I didn't have a plan to work to and so it was a case of trial and error, believe me when I say there were a lot errors.
                                                                                    
 
 
                                     
My next move was to lace a 2mm x 2mm strip along the top of the waterline, this was painted black prior to gluing on but that will be for the post.
 
That's it for now gents.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Been playing with them some more. Made them a little shorter. Are they still too high? I really don't know much about these.
 
Jesse

Meanwhile I've been working on the Bowsprit rigging. 
 
Jesse

A couple of pictures demonstrating the preliminary result using 0,5 and 0,75 black thread for the footropes.
I'll leave the rigging semi-loose till the final placement just to be sure for the tension of the fittings and to simulate a sense of gravity rope "sagging" using floor cleaner as a rope hardener.
 
I've found the tip to save my photos in a 270 degrees orientation.
This way i can upload and show them without problem preserving my (and yours) cervical spine stablity. 
 

Follow up to the 'Condor' painting.
HMS Wanderer lowers her Seaboat to pickup Lt Robert H Everett RNVR, after he had been catapulted off Maplin (Catapult Fighter Ship). He had just shot down a Fock Wulf FW 200 Condor. Well out from land, he had to ditch his aircraft near a ship in the convoy. This was the first success by an a/c operating from a Catapult equipped Merchant ship. At the time Maplin was being operated by the RN as a Catapult Fighter Ship, so I suppose technically she was a warship. However this setup developed into the Catapult armed Merchant ship, followed by the Merchant Aircraft Carrier, and finally the Escort Carrier.
jim 
Watercolour 15" X 10" 
 

Lovely work Jesse, seems like I've missed a fair amount of progress.  Love the way the hammock nettings turned out.

Lovely work Jesse, seems like I've missed a fair amount of progress.  Love the way the hammock nettings turned out.

Lovely work Jesse, seems like I've missed a fair amount of progress.  Love the way the hammock nettings turned out.

Lovely work Jesse, seems like I've missed a fair amount of progress.  Love the way the hammock nettings turned out.

Bowsprit, Jibboom & Flying Jibboom all assembled and glued into place. Figurehead glued on. Could not get a good close-up shot of it like I wanted.
 
This is the part of the build where I have to be extra careful because I always bump, snag and break things that stick out. I actually delayed this step until now for this very reason.
 
Jesse

Happy New Year to all!
 
Not too much to show for a little bit of extra time in the shipyard, but have put a bookend on the work at the stern and quarter galleries for now.  Basically, all I've done is glue the quarter gallery sections in place together with the various rails (Upper stool, rim and lower stool rails).  This took much longer than expected as  I had so many pieces of rework, either because if breakage when shaping, fitting or by trimming a little too much (despite reciting 'don't take off too much' continually under my breath) and needing to restart.  It was also challenging as the quarter gallery rails needed to match as well as possible to the upper and lower counter rails.  Anyway, don't think the pictures need much additional explanation - other than that some are taken without any touchup, but the extra time afforded by the site outage allowed me to get a little more done.
 
Suffice to say, I'm very pleased with the way the quarter galleries turned out, definitely challenging, but worth the extra time.  The PE lights still require some work and these will not be put in place yet, but I wanted to get a sense for the overall look and the lines.  Of course final judgement is left to others 
 

 
The kit supplied console brackets  proved to be a little oversized, to keep the same feel as the plans I wanted these to fit snuggly between the upper stool and the rim rails.  For comparison, you can see the adjusted starboard side bracket to the not yet adjusted port side on the left.
 

 
Taking a step back to compare to the plans and assessing varied angles I think I've done as much as can be done to bash any provided parts into something a little more consistent.  As always, the human eye is a little more forgiving in person.  The plan profile is enlarged from the AOTS book.  The quarter gallery sculptures now have a definite 'ledge' to visually support them and I'm glad I invested the extra time here.
 

 
 

Been a while since posting and felt like I needed to get up to date, and thanks all for the continued interest - and yes Carl, Mobbsie, simply making slightly wider transoms is the solution.  Rather tedious which is why my fingers have been distracted as you'll see.
 
I feel like I should start with a "forgive me father its been 700 days since I've looked at the instructions or used a kit part"    Haven't been completely idle but have got a decent start on couple of visually small but meaningful tasks that should allow of this to come together relatively quickly when the time comes.  Main goal is to get items in place to allow me to give the sides a coat of wipe on poly for protection after gluing items in place but prior to touchup which will definitely be needed.  I've decided that my next model will only have one side 
 
Chesstree and fenders:  These were made up to allow the sheer rail to be positioned and were cut from 3mm and 2mm sheet respectively.  The Chesstree has a notable thinning in width as it goes down the hull which I tried to reflect. Felt these looked rather boring when shaped so decided to try and put a profile in these as is so apparent when looking at those on Trincomalee and Victory.  These seem to ne features often missing on contemporary models...think I now appreciate why   A scraper profile was made for each, the fenders proved much easier to do despite being smaller because of the constant width, the chesstrees much more challenging due to the steady reduction in width.  Things are a little messy at the bottom but to the naked eye the defects are much less noticeable and these will not be redone.  Chesstree sheaves will be simulated.
 
Photos below also show a slight miscalculation from way back nearly coming back to bite me.  The sheaves for the sheets and tacks were placed a little too high and these nearly interfered with positioning the sheer rail.
 

 
Fore and Main Channels:  The channels need to be placed at the same height as the sheer rail, so even though its not necessary to attach these until much later, its necessary know where these will be positioned before the sheer rail can be applied.  I've decided to go with natural castello channel rather than painted black finish - the latter would at least have given me the option to use the kit part.  Making my own allowed me to follow TFFM styling a little bit which is a bit more curvaceous and pleasing to the eye, it also allowed me to position the slots for the chains to reflect the positions of the gun ports - you can see small but noticeable differences in the comparison below.  (Interestingly the kit fore-channel has 6 slots at the rear, where-as the AOTS plans show only 5).  Holes to allow the pinning of the channels have been drilled so these just need final attachment.
 

 
Waist:  As previously mentioned, I've been leaving the final position of the upper hull to be tweaked later.  To be comfortable that the sheer rail was correctly positioned I needed to trim the waist height back to anticipate the position of the top deck, and allowing for a layer of planking.  This was also necessary to finalise the height of the fenders and chesstrees.

 
Quarterpieces:  These have been beveled to allow the placement of the figures, and also the quarterpieces were built up slightly to allow me more easily place and but up the top finishing molding for the taffarel when I get there.  The figures with bent arms sit quite pleasingly now and there is a definite sense of depth rather than just plain bas-relief.  Obviously lots of fine finishing and touch up still needed....curse you macro gods!
 

Thanks Pat, Stergios, Jesse and the 'likes' for your continued interest, it is a great motivator.
 
Rob - glad the pictures are helpful, that's exactly why I think I tend to err on the side of posting too many pictures...
 
Carl - there is a pair, how "matching" the pair is open to debate, but luckily they will never be seen side by side 
 
Mike - here's where I describe how I did the lettering, the filigree was done in exactly the same way.  Everything is pretty much free hand so I'm not sure I could replicated again if I tried.  Just jump in and realize there its just paint so nothing really horrible can go wrong!
 

Thanks Pat, Stergios, Jesse and the 'likes' for your continued interest, it is a great motivator.
 
Rob - glad the pictures are helpful, that's exactly why I think I tend to err on the side of posting too many pictures...
 
Carl - there is a pair, how "matching" the pair is open to debate, but luckily they will never be seen side by side 
 
Mike - here's where I describe how I did the lettering, the filigree was done in exactly the same way.  Everything is pretty much free hand so I'm not sure I could replicated again if I tried.  Just jump in and realize there its just paint so nothing really horrible can go wrong!
 

Thanks Pat, Stergios, Jesse and the 'likes' for your continued interest, it is a great motivator.
 
Rob - glad the pictures are helpful, that's exactly why I think I tend to err on the side of posting too many pictures...
 
Carl - there is a pair, how "matching" the pair is open to debate, but luckily they will never be seen side by side 
 
Mike - here's where I describe how I did the lettering, the filigree was done in exactly the same way.  Everything is pretty much free hand so I'm not sure I could replicated again if I tried.  Just jump in and realize there its just paint so nothing really horrible can go wrong!
 

Looking very good Jason, very neat detail and pleasant to the eye.
 
cheers
 
Pat

This is so helpful as I'm just starting out on the quarter galleries myself... They look amazing! If mine turn out half as good I'll be very happy.

A happy, healthy, and prosperous New Year to you too, Jason
 
That quarter gallery looks real spiffy! I presume you have a matching pair