Beef Wellington

Looking great Rob.  As I'm sure the other Diana builders will attest, I'd suggest double checking the stern fascia and window position as well just to make sure of placement.  

Looking great Rob.  As I'm sure the other Diana builders will attest, I'd suggest double checking the stern fascia and window position as well just to make sure of placement.  

Looking great Rob.  As I'm sure the other Diana builders will attest, I'd suggest double checking the stern fascia and window position as well just to make sure of placement.  

Pat - The more I think it through the less I'm thinking of creeping error.  The line and height of the gunports is pretty much set by the sheer of the deck, and it would look odd to move the wale up 3mm as it would be wider at this point because the bottom of the wale can go no higher than the bottom of the lower counter.  The only proactive solution would have been to adjust the height of the lower counter which would then have resulted in other proportional issues...Bottom line, the kit parts do not match the true shape of the plans, but don't think the differences are unreasonable and I don't think impact the look of the model - unless you are really looking.  Similarly, the aft gun port is a little too far forward even in its rearmost possible position, another difference of probably 2-3 mm which again doesn't impact the overall feel.
 
If I've learned one thing, its that this can be a tricky little kit!

Thanks for the comments and likes everyone.
 
I did step away from the paintbrush.  Lot of work and a little progress.  The upper counter has been glued in place and trim added to the bottom of the lower counter.  These were once again pre-shaped and as it was can be a handful.  They highlight a few errors in the hull shape but shouldn't be noticeable to most (I hope).  Now the work on the side galleries can continues in earnest.  The main pieces had already been made up and just required a little fettling for now.  The lights are all in temporarily as I find they do alter the perception of the surfaces.
 

 
Following a similar approach to that laid out in the instructions, the lower counters were made up from laminating some spare 3mm pear, there's nothing wrong with the kit supplied mahogany parts its just that I messed up the first time and there wasn't enough spare, something for others to consider.  None of these items are glued in position yet.
 
The lower gallery piece was made up first, these were given a slight concave curve to avoid them appearing to sag, may need to do a little more here but I'm leaving alone for now.  The drop is proving the most challenging because its so fiddly and needs to follow the lines of the lower counter - this is still work in progress and have a few mistakes already behind me.  The upper finishing was cut from a 5mm pear which matched the ATOS profile dimensions best (the kit calls for 2x3mm laminated pieces) - this piece was a practice to get a sense for the suggested shape and will need more work.
 
Overall, everything seems to be fitting together as planned - although looking at the close up photos the camera is definitely not being my friend.  The bottom of the gallery should be parallel to the wale, also match the angle of the stern fascia...which needs to match the angle of the rearmost false light.

So now things are now being positioned, the first non-fixable alignment issue becomes apparent!  Looking at the AOTS profile, the bottom of the lower gallery should meet the top of the wale.  The bottom of the trim will sit at the top of the lower gallery - so this is out by 3mm.  Not much, it just means that the top of the drop will straddle the wale, and I'm not overly concerned as it seems looking at many other profiles that this positioning can be above or below the wale.  As for the reason for those also building the kit, there are probably many contributing factors - and I'm sure its a cumulative effect from positioning of the stern fascia where I estimated it needed to go, the wale could also be slightly out of position, the kit sheer of the deck could be different and the bottom of the counter way back when framing could also have been out.  Interestingly, had I used the 3mm strip above the wale for the black strake, and had this been painted black, this would have met exactly - but that I suspect would have been a lucky coincidence.
 
Bottom line, could be a lot worse, and I'm happy for now   Onwards!

Thanks for the comments and likes everyone.
 
I did step away from the paintbrush.  Lot of work and a little progress.  The upper counter has been glued in place and trim added to the bottom of the lower counter.  These were once again pre-shaped and as it was can be a handful.  They highlight a few errors in the hull shape but shouldn't be noticeable to most (I hope).  Now the work on the side galleries can continues in earnest.  The main pieces had already been made up and just required a little fettling for now.  The lights are all in temporarily as I find they do alter the perception of the surfaces.
 

 
Following a similar approach to that laid out in the instructions, the lower counters were made up from laminating some spare 3mm pear, there's nothing wrong with the kit supplied mahogany parts its just that I messed up the first time and there wasn't enough spare, something for others to consider.  None of these items are glued in position yet.
 
The lower gallery piece was made up first, these were given a slight concave curve to avoid them appearing to sag, may need to do a little more here but I'm leaving alone for now.  The drop is proving the most challenging because its so fiddly and needs to follow the lines of the lower counter - this is still work in progress and have a few mistakes already behind me.  The upper finishing was cut from a 5mm pear which matched the ATOS profile dimensions best (the kit calls for 2x3mm laminated pieces) - this piece was a practice to get a sense for the suggested shape and will need more work.
 
Overall, everything seems to be fitting together as planned - although looking at the close up photos the camera is definitely not being my friend.  The bottom of the gallery should be parallel to the wale, also match the angle of the stern fascia...which needs to match the angle of the rearmost false light.

So now things are now being positioned, the first non-fixable alignment issue becomes apparent!  Looking at the AOTS profile, the bottom of the lower gallery should meet the top of the wale.  The bottom of the trim will sit at the top of the lower gallery - so this is out by 3mm.  Not much, it just means that the top of the drop will straddle the wale, and I'm not overly concerned as it seems looking at many other profiles that this positioning can be above or below the wale.  As for the reason for those also building the kit, there are probably many contributing factors - and I'm sure its a cumulative effect from positioning of the stern fascia where I estimated it needed to go, the wale could also be slightly out of position, the kit sheer of the deck could be different and the bottom of the counter way back when framing could also have been out.  Interestingly, had I used the 3mm strip above the wale for the black strake, and had this been painted black, this would have met exactly - but that I suspect would have been a lucky coincidence.
 
Bottom line, could be a lot worse, and I'm happy for now   Onwards!

I love that Joe, really nice detail to add - its fun doing a little scratch work isn't it.  It reminds me of the shortened school buses that my kids find so amusing....
 

So here's where I landed with the lettering.  First the letters were painted in a darker brown and then overpainted with yellow ochre and few highlights.  The goal here was not perfection as I new that was not going to remotely close, hopefully "impressionistic" describes it.  Was very happy with the outcome, may touchup a little more but I'm forcing myself to stay away for now.  The placement may look a little odd, but I had to estimate where the decorative rails will be so it should be correctly aligned when those are in place...something to potentially still go awry.  I'm following the guidance that the letters should fill the upper counter leaving a little space between the rails.  The photos are a little unkind and to my eye looks better in person.
 
First picture is the obvious comparison to the kit supplied PE letters, and you can see the perspective narrowing of the font.  I placed the lights in the stern while fine tuning the angle as it seemed that these need be complimentary somehow, although the angle varies from every viewing angle.
 

Shipyard Update
Main TopMast Stay:
A Single 7mm block added to the top of the Fore Mast for the Main Top Mast Stay(will be using 0.64mm rope) to run through.
The stay runs down the mast, fixed via a tackle to an eye on the Starboard side(H1-10 AoTS) of the mast step.
 
For the collar I used 0.45mm rope, seized leaving a gap to go around the block, the seized ends to form the end loops. 

The block ready to be fixed to the fore mast top:

And the block lashed in place:

The block/collar may be a bit too high up for the Main and Fore stays to be perfectly in alignment. ?
 
 
Dave R

Hi Rob, really nice progress on the planking, love the tapered sternpost - think your solution is a little more elegant   Hopefully I'll have an update soon as the bug has bitten me again, you look to be really having some fun with this kit.  All the best.

And here are some slightly better quality pics
 
Also a pic of the new stand.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for looking in again Jan and Carl.
 
I bought a few sheets of PE from Tom's Model Works suitable for IJN Destroyers :





The kit Deck Reels weren't very detailed, so I only used the rolled tubes and replaced the discs and support frames with PE. There are 7 of them, of four different configurations :



I spray painted them with Tamiya IJN Gray :




 
  Danny

That boat looks great Jessie.  I can't believe how thin you must have been able to get the base structure to allow you to double plank inside and out, sure patience played a big part.  Very nice work.

Very interesting model Kevin, always been intrigued by these Fleetscale offerings.

That boat looks great Jessie.  I can't believe how thin you must have been able to get the base structure to allow you to double plank inside and out, sure patience played a big part.  Very nice work.

Pat - The more I think it through the less I'm thinking of creeping error.  The line and height of the gunports is pretty much set by the sheer of the deck, and it would look odd to move the wale up 3mm as it would be wider at this point because the bottom of the wale can go no higher than the bottom of the lower counter.  The only proactive solution would have been to adjust the height of the lower counter which would then have resulted in other proportional issues...Bottom line, the kit parts do not match the true shape of the plans, but don't think the differences are unreasonable and I don't think impact the look of the model - unless you are really looking.  Similarly, the aft gun port is a little too far forward even in its rearmost possible position, another difference of probably 2-3 mm which again doesn't impact the overall feel.
 
If I've learned one thing, its that this can be a tricky little kit!

Thanks for the comments and likes everyone.
 
I did step away from the paintbrush.  Lot of work and a little progress.  The upper counter has been glued in place and trim added to the bottom of the lower counter.  These were once again pre-shaped and as it was can be a handful.  They highlight a few errors in the hull shape but shouldn't be noticeable to most (I hope).  Now the work on the side galleries can continues in earnest.  The main pieces had already been made up and just required a little fettling for now.  The lights are all in temporarily as I find they do alter the perception of the surfaces.
 

 
Following a similar approach to that laid out in the instructions, the lower counters were made up from laminating some spare 3mm pear, there's nothing wrong with the kit supplied mahogany parts its just that I messed up the first time and there wasn't enough spare, something for others to consider.  None of these items are glued in position yet.
 
The lower gallery piece was made up first, these were given a slight concave curve to avoid them appearing to sag, may need to do a little more here but I'm leaving alone for now.  The drop is proving the most challenging because its so fiddly and needs to follow the lines of the lower counter - this is still work in progress and have a few mistakes already behind me.  The upper finishing was cut from a 5mm pear which matched the ATOS profile dimensions best (the kit calls for 2x3mm laminated pieces) - this piece was a practice to get a sense for the suggested shape and will need more work.
 
Overall, everything seems to be fitting together as planned - although looking at the close up photos the camera is definitely not being my friend.  The bottom of the gallery should be parallel to the wale, also match the angle of the stern fascia...which needs to match the angle of the rearmost false light.

So now things are now being positioned, the first non-fixable alignment issue becomes apparent!  Looking at the AOTS profile, the bottom of the lower gallery should meet the top of the wale.  The bottom of the trim will sit at the top of the lower gallery - so this is out by 3mm.  Not much, it just means that the top of the drop will straddle the wale, and I'm not overly concerned as it seems looking at many other profiles that this positioning can be above or below the wale.  As for the reason for those also building the kit, there are probably many contributing factors - and I'm sure its a cumulative effect from positioning of the stern fascia where I estimated it needed to go, the wale could also be slightly out of position, the kit sheer of the deck could be different and the bottom of the counter way back when framing could also have been out.  Interestingly, had I used the 3mm strip above the wale for the black strake, and had this been painted black, this would have met exactly - but that I suspect would have been a lucky coincidence.
 
Bottom line, could be a lot worse, and I'm happy for now   Onwards!

Thanks for the comments and likes everyone.
 
I did step away from the paintbrush.  Lot of work and a little progress.  The upper counter has been glued in place and trim added to the bottom of the lower counter.  These were once again pre-shaped and as it was can be a handful.  They highlight a few errors in the hull shape but shouldn't be noticeable to most (I hope).  Now the work on the side galleries can continues in earnest.  The main pieces had already been made up and just required a little fettling for now.  The lights are all in temporarily as I find they do alter the perception of the surfaces.
 

 
Following a similar approach to that laid out in the instructions, the lower counters were made up from laminating some spare 3mm pear, there's nothing wrong with the kit supplied mahogany parts its just that I messed up the first time and there wasn't enough spare, something for others to consider.  None of these items are glued in position yet.
 
The lower gallery piece was made up first, these were given a slight concave curve to avoid them appearing to sag, may need to do a little more here but I'm leaving alone for now.  The drop is proving the most challenging because its so fiddly and needs to follow the lines of the lower counter - this is still work in progress and have a few mistakes already behind me.  The upper finishing was cut from a 5mm pear which matched the ATOS profile dimensions best (the kit calls for 2x3mm laminated pieces) - this piece was a practice to get a sense for the suggested shape and will need more work.
 
Overall, everything seems to be fitting together as planned - although looking at the close up photos the camera is definitely not being my friend.  The bottom of the gallery should be parallel to the wale, also match the angle of the stern fascia...which needs to match the angle of the rearmost false light.

So now things are now being positioned, the first non-fixable alignment issue becomes apparent!  Looking at the AOTS profile, the bottom of the lower gallery should meet the top of the wale.  The bottom of the trim will sit at the top of the lower gallery - so this is out by 3mm.  Not much, it just means that the top of the drop will straddle the wale, and I'm not overly concerned as it seems looking at many other profiles that this positioning can be above or below the wale.  As for the reason for those also building the kit, there are probably many contributing factors - and I'm sure its a cumulative effect from positioning of the stern fascia where I estimated it needed to go, the wale could also be slightly out of position, the kit sheer of the deck could be different and the bottom of the counter way back when framing could also have been out.  Interestingly, had I used the 3mm strip above the wale for the black strake, and had this been painted black, this would have met exactly - but that I suspect would have been a lucky coincidence.
 
Bottom line, could be a lot worse, and I'm happy for now   Onwards!

Pat - The more I think it through the less I'm thinking of creeping error.  The line and height of the gunports is pretty much set by the sheer of the deck, and it would look odd to move the wale up 3mm as it would be wider at this point because the bottom of the wale can go no higher than the bottom of the lower counter.  The only proactive solution would have been to adjust the height of the lower counter which would then have resulted in other proportional issues...Bottom line, the kit parts do not match the true shape of the plans, but don't think the differences are unreasonable and I don't think impact the look of the model - unless you are really looking.  Similarly, the aft gun port is a little too far forward even in its rearmost possible position, another difference of probably 2-3 mm which again doesn't impact the overall feel.
 
If I've learned one thing, its that this can be a tricky little kit!

Thanks for the comments and likes everyone.
 
I did step away from the paintbrush.  Lot of work and a little progress.  The upper counter has been glued in place and trim added to the bottom of the lower counter.  These were once again pre-shaped and as it was can be a handful.  They highlight a few errors in the hull shape but shouldn't be noticeable to most (I hope).  Now the work on the side galleries can continues in earnest.  The main pieces had already been made up and just required a little fettling for now.  The lights are all in temporarily as I find they do alter the perception of the surfaces.
 

 
Following a similar approach to that laid out in the instructions, the lower counters were made up from laminating some spare 3mm pear, there's nothing wrong with the kit supplied mahogany parts its just that I messed up the first time and there wasn't enough spare, something for others to consider.  None of these items are glued in position yet.
 
The lower gallery piece was made up first, these were given a slight concave curve to avoid them appearing to sag, may need to do a little more here but I'm leaving alone for now.  The drop is proving the most challenging because its so fiddly and needs to follow the lines of the lower counter - this is still work in progress and have a few mistakes already behind me.  The upper finishing was cut from a 5mm pear which matched the ATOS profile dimensions best (the kit calls for 2x3mm laminated pieces) - this piece was a practice to get a sense for the suggested shape and will need more work.
 
Overall, everything seems to be fitting together as planned - although looking at the close up photos the camera is definitely not being my friend.  The bottom of the gallery should be parallel to the wale, also match the angle of the stern fascia...which needs to match the angle of the rearmost false light.

So now things are now being positioned, the first non-fixable alignment issue becomes apparent!  Looking at the AOTS profile, the bottom of the lower gallery should meet the top of the wale.  The bottom of the trim will sit at the top of the lower gallery - so this is out by 3mm.  Not much, it just means that the top of the drop will straddle the wale, and I'm not overly concerned as it seems looking at many other profiles that this positioning can be above or below the wale.  As for the reason for those also building the kit, there are probably many contributing factors - and I'm sure its a cumulative effect from positioning of the stern fascia where I estimated it needed to go, the wale could also be slightly out of position, the kit sheer of the deck could be different and the bottom of the counter way back when framing could also have been out.  Interestingly, had I used the 3mm strip above the wale for the black strake, and had this been painted black, this would have met exactly - but that I suspect would have been a lucky coincidence.
 
Bottom line, could be a lot worse, and I'm happy for now   Onwards!

Pat - The more I think it through the less I'm thinking of creeping error.  The line and height of the gunports is pretty much set by the sheer of the deck, and it would look odd to move the wale up 3mm as it would be wider at this point because the bottom of the wale can go no higher than the bottom of the lower counter.  The only proactive solution would have been to adjust the height of the lower counter which would then have resulted in other proportional issues...Bottom line, the kit parts do not match the true shape of the plans, but don't think the differences are unreasonable and I don't think impact the look of the model - unless you are really looking.  Similarly, the aft gun port is a little too far forward even in its rearmost possible position, another difference of probably 2-3 mm which again doesn't impact the overall feel.
 
If I've learned one thing, its that this can be a tricky little kit!

Thanks for the comments and likes everyone.
 
I did step away from the paintbrush.  Lot of work and a little progress.  The upper counter has been glued in place and trim added to the bottom of the lower counter.  These were once again pre-shaped and as it was can be a handful.  They highlight a few errors in the hull shape but shouldn't be noticeable to most (I hope).  Now the work on the side galleries can continues in earnest.  The main pieces had already been made up and just required a little fettling for now.  The lights are all in temporarily as I find they do alter the perception of the surfaces.
 

 
Following a similar approach to that laid out in the instructions, the lower counters were made up from laminating some spare 3mm pear, there's nothing wrong with the kit supplied mahogany parts its just that I messed up the first time and there wasn't enough spare, something for others to consider.  None of these items are glued in position yet.
 
The lower gallery piece was made up first, these were given a slight concave curve to avoid them appearing to sag, may need to do a little more here but I'm leaving alone for now.  The drop is proving the most challenging because its so fiddly and needs to follow the lines of the lower counter - this is still work in progress and have a few mistakes already behind me.  The upper finishing was cut from a 5mm pear which matched the ATOS profile dimensions best (the kit calls for 2x3mm laminated pieces) - this piece was a practice to get a sense for the suggested shape and will need more work.
 
Overall, everything seems to be fitting together as planned - although looking at the close up photos the camera is definitely not being my friend.  The bottom of the gallery should be parallel to the wale, also match the angle of the stern fascia...which needs to match the angle of the rearmost false light.

So now things are now being positioned, the first non-fixable alignment issue becomes apparent!  Looking at the AOTS profile, the bottom of the lower gallery should meet the top of the wale.  The bottom of the trim will sit at the top of the lower gallery - so this is out by 3mm.  Not much, it just means that the top of the drop will straddle the wale, and I'm not overly concerned as it seems looking at many other profiles that this positioning can be above or below the wale.  As for the reason for those also building the kit, there are probably many contributing factors - and I'm sure its a cumulative effect from positioning of the stern fascia where I estimated it needed to go, the wale could also be slightly out of position, the kit sheer of the deck could be different and the bottom of the counter way back when framing could also have been out.  Interestingly, had I used the 3mm strip above the wale for the black strake, and had this been painted black, this would have met exactly - but that I suspect would have been a lucky coincidence.
 
Bottom line, could be a lot worse, and I'm happy for now   Onwards!

Thanks for the comments and likes everyone.
 
I did step away from the paintbrush.  Lot of work and a little progress.  The upper counter has been glued in place and trim added to the bottom of the lower counter.  These were once again pre-shaped and as it was can be a handful.  They highlight a few errors in the hull shape but shouldn't be noticeable to most (I hope).  Now the work on the side galleries can continues in earnest.  The main pieces had already been made up and just required a little fettling for now.  The lights are all in temporarily as I find they do alter the perception of the surfaces.
 

 
Following a similar approach to that laid out in the instructions, the lower counters were made up from laminating some spare 3mm pear, there's nothing wrong with the kit supplied mahogany parts its just that I messed up the first time and there wasn't enough spare, something for others to consider.  None of these items are glued in position yet.
 
The lower gallery piece was made up first, these were given a slight concave curve to avoid them appearing to sag, may need to do a little more here but I'm leaving alone for now.  The drop is proving the most challenging because its so fiddly and needs to follow the lines of the lower counter - this is still work in progress and have a few mistakes already behind me.  The upper finishing was cut from a 5mm pear which matched the ATOS profile dimensions best (the kit calls for 2x3mm laminated pieces) - this piece was a practice to get a sense for the suggested shape and will need more work.
 
Overall, everything seems to be fitting together as planned - although looking at the close up photos the camera is definitely not being my friend.  The bottom of the gallery should be parallel to the wale, also match the angle of the stern fascia...which needs to match the angle of the rearmost false light.

So now things are now being positioned, the first non-fixable alignment issue becomes apparent!  Looking at the AOTS profile, the bottom of the lower gallery should meet the top of the wale.  The bottom of the trim will sit at the top of the lower gallery - so this is out by 3mm.  Not much, it just means that the top of the drop will straddle the wale, and I'm not overly concerned as it seems looking at many other profiles that this positioning can be above or below the wale.  As for the reason for those also building the kit, there are probably many contributing factors - and I'm sure its a cumulative effect from positioning of the stern fascia where I estimated it needed to go, the wale could also be slightly out of position, the kit sheer of the deck could be different and the bottom of the counter way back when framing could also have been out.  Interestingly, had I used the 3mm strip above the wale for the black strake, and had this been painted black, this would have met exactly - but that I suspect would have been a lucky coincidence.
 
Bottom line, could be a lot worse, and I'm happy for now   Onwards!

That boat looks great Jessie.  I can't believe how thin you must have been able to get the base structure to allow you to double plank inside and out, sure patience played a big part.  Very nice work.

Very interesting model Kevin, always been intrigued by these Fleetscale offerings.